Note that the spindle nut is factory installed to 242 lb-ft of torque, with a dimple punched into the rim of the nut to lock it on the half-shaft. That plus age, rust, etc, can make removing that nut and sliding the shaft out of the spindle a challenge. If you have an impact wrench with 500 lb-ft capability, removing the nut is easy, otherwise, here's my tips for that.
1. Remove the center caps from your rims - for my OEM rims, I didn't want to scratch the caps by prying them out, so I removed the wheels, popped the caps out from the rear with a wood block, then remounted the wheels.
2. Use a small (narrow) chisel to pry-up the dimpled part of the spindle nut. Easiest to do while/if the wheel is off in step 1.
3. Reinstall the wheels, lower the car, fully engage the hand brake, and put the car into gear. (If you're really anal like me, 1st gear for the driver side, reverse for the passenger side, just in case the engine turns a little during step 4).
4. Using a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, with about a 6' pipe extension over the breaker bar, loosen the spindle nut 1 to 2 turns.
5. Using a 2 or 3 lb hammer along with a thin wood block or a brass bar/punch, whack the spindle nut/half-shaft end to break it loose from the hub. It may require PBlaster to loosen rust on the shaft or hub splines. I have heard of cases where much greater force was needed to break the shaft loose from the hub. Both of mine came loose with a light tap, but my car has always been garaged and only has 75kmi.
After the above, take the nuts off all the way, remove the tires, jack up the car and follow the steps in the shop manual.
Hope this helps.
3/4" drive if you wish to avoid smashing the bars
