CT non-compliance rear beam?

[supergreen125]

Does anyone know what the purpose of the Comptech non-compliance rear beam is?
How about the non-compliance toe links?
Are these products streetable??
Their website does a horrible job of explaining the parts they sell.
Thanks,
Mike

------------------
'94 NSX black on black
'01 IS300
'93 del Sol -turbo integra powered- SOLD

[This message has been edited by supergreen125 (edited 13 February 2003).]

 

[cpmoran]

I think they are for camber on lowered cars

 

[docjohn]

I,m no expert but if you search on the topic a whole loto stuff will pop up.In short the mods in question reduce the nasty habit of stock rear end reducing toe on hard cornering loads,like at the track.You will not notice these mods on the street in routine driving.

 

[92 white 0650]

The short answer is that they both replace the rubber bushings with urethane. This provides firmer and more predictable control than rubber when cornering hard at the track. These won't be a factor for any safe street driving. I've been told that of the two, the toe links are the best bang for the buck. Toe links are next up on my wish list.

HTH

Ted

 

[nsx4fun]

Supergreen,

A longer answer. Ever hear of bump steer. It's the result of alignment changing as a result of movement of the suspension components. On off road vehicles with large tires, it is most noticeable that bumps in the road cause the vehicle to turn when driving straight was the desireable goal. With the NSX, the independent suspension in the rear does the same thing. The direction the tires points changes as the suspension compresses or expands. This is because of the slop/compliance of the rubber components. By stiffening these points with urethane bushings, the change in tire direction is reduced as a result of suspension articulation. It does stiffen the ride up some due to the loss of compliance (i.e. the rubber absorbed shocks, the urethane does not). If you like to corner hard, and don't mind "feeling" the road surface roughness more, it may be a worthwhile mod, but if you prefer the smooth ride and don't corner hard enough to induce body roll, then the non-compliance components are not what you desire.

Ted,
Are you the Ted I think you are? Used to live in the court behind my house. See you at the next meeting; if not before, in the early Dawn.

'92 white

 

[Andrie Hartanto]

I thought Comptech uses delrin, even harder material than urethane.

 

[Yellow Rose]

I think they are for camber on lowered cars

No.

 

[Yellow Rose]

If you like to corner hard, and don't mind "feeling" the road surface roughness more, it may be a worthwhile mod, but if you prefer the smooth ride and don't corner hard enough to induce body roll, then the non-compliance components are not what you desire.

I have both.....the non-compliant beam and the non-compliant toe-links. The miniscule increase in firmness while street driving is hardly even noticeable. IMO it is a good thing, because if a smooth ride is the choice, then perhaps a _____ (insert preference of luxury sedan here) should the the car.

On the track, they are a *very* worthy mod because I find it easier to throttle steer and to do so with more "precision".

 

[supergreen125]

Thanks for all the input!
Sounds like a worthwhile investment considering the type of driving I do.
I had full polyurethane bushings on my del Sol and I absolutely loved how tight and precise the chassis felt.

 

[matteni]

The beam would be cool for track driving - especially when combined with the upgraded LSD on the early models and the adjustable end links. JMO - but even at the track you have to be at 8/10ths or higher before you would even notice.

That said - the beam is a very expensive mod from both a part cost and installation cost. Have you seen where this thing is and what has to come out to get to it?

I am a shade tree mechanic (at best) but I don't see how you can get that old beam out and the new one in without dropping the engine.

Anyone know how many hours labor this would be and what you do to do it.

BTW the end links are a LOT easier to get to and you can get the adjustable end links for a LOT less money then CompTech here:
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=69

For either of these you will certainly want check alignment as well.

Good luck.

------------------
Nick M

91' Red/Black with Many Mods
99' Honda Odyssey with Many Kids

 

[Gary W]

I am a shade tree mechanic (at best) but I don't see how you can get that old beam out and the new one in without dropping the engine.

Anyone know how many hours labor this would be and what you do to do it.

I installed the rear beam my self and it took about 2 hours to remove and a little less to put the CT beam back in. Just had it on jack stands, engine removal not required, just a manual.

Gary

 

[zoomnsx]

Originally posted by matteni
BTW the end links are a LOT easier to get to and you can get the adjustable end links for a LOT less money then CompTech here:
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=69
--------------------------------------------
Those are sway bar end links, not the toe links that Comptech makes.



[This message has been edited by zoomnsx (edited 14 February 2003).]

 

[92 white 0650]

Fritz, what are you doing here? Your "Out-of-Office" auto reply to my Dawn Patrol E mail yesterday said you are on vacation.

Ted

 

[Diveboy]

Removing the read center beam is not that bad. Will take you about 4 to 5 hours. It will be much easier if you remover the Cat and, rear sway bar and U shape brace that runs from the rear to the front rear cross member. Then remove the transmission mount. Then if I remember correctly you can remove the toe links and the bottom rear control arm mount. Then there are 4 bolts on each side that mount the rear cross member to the side upper control arm mount.

I had this unit out of mine last year. I am doing this for memory. But I think that will get most of it out for you. I hope this helps.

Jim