Clutch safety switch. Take my advice!

[Old Guy]

The flat panel should be easy. The only 'trick' is that at the very front of the panel in the middle there are two plastic rods / dowels that stick into brackets with holes that are mounted on the inside of the firewall. Once all the retaining screws are released if you pull the flat panel straight back the dowels should pull out of the mounting bracket and come out. Don't pull the panel down before getting the dowels out of the bracket otherwise you will snap the dowels off. That is what somebody did to my car before I got it = floppy panel.

 

[Old Guy]

I have a picture showing what I am doing; but, right now Prime is saying that .jpg is not a valid file so we need to go with test.

Use a piece of #16 gauge wire about 5 ft long with the insulation stripped a bit at each end. I do the following:

1. I pull remove the existing connector to the starter motor solenoid (small wire on the starter).
2. I pull the cover off the fuse panel in the engine compartment and expose the jump start terminal
3. I turn the ignition switch to the run position
4. I hold one end of the wire on the exposed jump start terminal and then touch the other end to the exposed terminal on the starter solenoid
5. The starter motor should start spinning as soon as you touch the solenoid terminal and the engine should start.
6. The starter motor will spin without the ignition switch turned to run; but, the engine will not start.

My jump wire is the 'deluxe' model. I have an alligator clip on one end which I can clip to the jump terminal so I don't have to hold it in place. The wire has a 15 or 20 amp in-line fuse in case I screw up and touch something I shouldn't with the other end. Finally, I crimped a quick disconnect bullet terminal on the other end to touch the solenoid contact. Avoids a loose strand of uninsulated wire touching something it shouldn't.

 

[nis350]

For step 1, is there only one wire for the connector and if it is red? I'd hate to jump the wrong terminal.

Thanks.

I have a picture showing what I am doing; but, right now Prime is saying that .jpg is not a valid file so we need to go with test.

Use a piece of #16 gauge wire about 5 ft long with the insulation stripped a bit at each end. I do the following:

1. I pull remove the existing connector to the starter motor solenoid (small wire on the starter).
2. I pull the cover off the fuse panel in the engine compartment and expose the jump start terminal
3. I turn the ignition switch to the run position
4. I hold one end of the wire on the exposed jump start terminal and then touch the other end to the exposed terminal on the starter solenoid
5. The starter motor should start spinning as soon as you touch the solenoid terminal and the engine should start.
6. The starter motor will spin without the ignition switch turned to run; but, the engine will not start.

My jump wire is the 'deluxe' model. I have an alligator clip on one end which I can clip to the jump terminal so I don't have to hold it in place. The wire has a 15 or 20 amp in-line fuse in case I screw up and touch something I shouldn't with the other end. Finally, I crimped a quick disconnect bullet terminal on the other end to touch the solenoid contact. Avoids a loose strand of uninsulated wire touching something it shouldn't.

 

[Old Guy]

The 1991 service manual says the wire to the starter motor solenoid is black/white. There is only one small wire to the starter. The main connection is a large bolted connection. I would post a picture of the starter motor from the service manual showing the solenoid terminal; but, for some reason the attachment function for posts does not accept any of my .jpg files.

You can find the starter picture on page 23-81 of the 1991 service manual. The connection to the solenoid is marked as the S terminal.

 

[nis350]

it is easy enough if there is just one wire. I won't have to worry about jumping the wrong terminal and damage something.

Thanks again.

The 1991 service manual says the wire to the starter motor solenoid is black/white. There is only one small wire to the starter. The main connection is a large bolted connection. I would post a picture of the starter motor from the service manual showing the solenoid terminal; but, for some reason the attachment function for posts does not accept any of my .jpg files.

You can find the starter picture on page 23-81 of the 1991 service manual. The connection to the solenoid is marked as the S terminal.

 

[ralph cerbone]

clutch switch

has anyone ever tried just place a small magnet to cover the hole in the clutch pedal tab . I bought spare switch pads a while ago in case of this problem and i know how difficult it is to get to that switch . What do think Old Guy ? just as a temp to get you going

As a temporary solution it might work. The problem is that there is not a lot of space up there so the magnet would have to be a fairly small flat disk. It is probably not going to stay in place for long relying just on the strength of the magnet. The other consideration is that magnets are usually sintered (or similar) and they are not structurally strong.

If you are looking for a temporary fix to get you out of the parking lot and home, I would go with the jumper wire to the starter motor.

 

[Professor X]

This happened to me twice. I ended up stabbing the grommet with a 90 degree metal pick/hook and maneuvered my hand until I was able to position the grommet so I could press it in. To many cramps trying to do it bare handed.

 

[Old Guy]

it is easy enough if there is just one wire. I won't have to worry about jumping the wrong terminal and damage something.

Thanks again.

Here is a photo from the SM showing the starter. S is the terminal for the solenoid coil that you want to use when 'bumping' the starter motor.

 

[nis350]

Perfect. Thanks again...

Here is a photo from the SM showing the starter. S is the terminal for the solenoid coil that you want to use when 'bumping' the starter motor.

 

[bucks co. nsx]

Thank you for this awesome diagram! It all makes sense now. Now I have to crawl back under and jumper out my safety switch.

 

[Old Guy]

Robaxacet (or its equivalent) is your friend. Take one before you start to get 'ahead of it' because I can pretty much guarantee that you will need some after you finish.

 

[bucks co. nsx]

Robaxacet (or its equivalent) is your friend. Take one before you start to get 'ahead of it' because I can pretty much guarantee that you will need some after you finish.

Thank's. l just replaced the clutch master cylinder,and that was quite a chore. l kept pumping the clutch pedal to get the air out,l think it worked,but the car wont start. l'm hoping the clutch safety switch is my problem.

 

[TANTO]

After seeing all the fuss regarding the switch "pads", I dumped both switches as i have no cruise. Just a pic to show what i did to replace the lower switch if you go that way - got a bolt from the hardware and thin nut to lock the bolt in place. As Old Guy stated round the end of the bolt just a little so it's threads don't dig into the OE plastic snubber. If memory serves nothing is needed on the top switch. I had my pedal out to this and modify the pedal a little and yes there was a little blood involved during that task - If you remove the clutch pedal take the adjuster rod out first!

 

[bucks co. nsx]

After seeing all the fuss regarding the switch "pads", I dumped both switches as i have no cruise. Just a pic to show what i did to replace the lower switch if you go that way - got a bolt from the hardware and thin nut to lock the bolt in place. As Old Guy stated round the end of the bolt just a little so it's threads don't dig into the OE plastic snubber. If memory serves nothing is needed on the top switch. I had my pedal out to this and modify the pedal a little and yes there was a little blood involved during that task - If you remove the clutch pedal take the adjuster rod out first!

Thank's for the advice and the pic. l'm heading under my dash now to investigate. l'm going to jump out the clutch safety switch to see if it will start. Fingers crossed.

 

[nis350]

Thank's for the advice and the pic. l'm heading under my dash now to investigate. l'm going to jump out the clutch safety switch to see if it will start. Fingers crossed.

please share how it goes....

 

[bucks co. nsx]

What a nightmare of a month. So like in my previous post,l changed my clutch master cylinder,but car wouldn't start. l jumped out the clutch safety switch,still nothing. l followed ''Oldguys" bypass method(thanks old guy for sharing that great info),solenoid pulls in,but no crank start. l then banged on the top of the starter with a long piece of steel re-bar while using the bypass method,and it cranked over....Yeah! now I proved I had a bad starter. Removed air box to get a small glimpse at the starter,REMOVED battery positive from battery and struggled to remove the two 17mm bolts holding in the starter. I needed to use a 24" long pipe over top of the socket wrench to get some leverage,this after trying to use my air tools with the hardend socket. Finally was able to break free both bolts! l found a local Starter/Altenator shop 6 miles away from me(they have been in business since 1978). $154.00 later,which I thought was cheap! I reinstalled the starter,I used a 14gauge stranded wire through a small hole on the back of the starter and fished it up through water hoses and tied it off to the top of the motor,this helped holding the starter in place while trying to get the bolts in place. Note: l used nolox on both bolts to make them go in easier and remove easier if needed. rewired everything and turned the key! Oh shit,now there is a grinding noise cumming from the starter/engine! Tried two more times,same grinding. l called the shop,they said the bench tested and everything was good. WRONG...l removed the starter,bench tested it,it worked fine. l then took a tape measure and measured 2-1/4" from the face of the ring gear,to the side of the engine block,l then measured the starter edge of housing, out to 2-1/4" which now put me halfway into the gear on the newly rebuilt starter! l called them back asking if they still had my original starter gear. They did,and put it back on....l was pissed,how could an experienced auto electric shop,not measure before changing important parts like that. 3 hours later,reinstalled and it started right up!!! And even the clutch was working. Moral of the story,take pictures and measurements of anything you hand over to someone. Thank goodness my ring gear wasn't damaged,l even took before and after pics of that. Now back to driving this marvelous car!

 

[TANTO]

Yea in a time of stress over our "baby", no matter how much of a skeptical bastard one is (me) one does tend to trust an "expert" to get us out of trouble. However even the best most experienced shop has at least one dummy employed. But your diligence likely saved your ring gear. In the old v8 junk year days it was not uncommon for someone to install a different salvage starter (like oldsmobile to chevy type thing) and damage the ring gear (if it bolts on it must work OK, right?) Glad no blood was involved! As i age i'm getting to know the local urgent care folks a little more(!) He-he.