Clutch safety switch. Take my advice!

The flat panel should be easy. The only 'trick' is that at the very front of the panel in the middle there are two plastic rods / dowels that stick into brackets with holes that are mounted on the inside of the firewall. Once all the retaining screws are released if you pull the flat panel straight back the dowels should pull out of the mounting bracket and come out. Don't pull the panel down before getting the dowels out of the bracket otherwise you will snap the dowels off. That is what somebody did to my car before I got it = floppy panel.
 
I have a picture showing what I am doing; but, right now Prime is saying that .jpg is not a valid file so we need to go with test.

Use a piece of #16 gauge wire about 5 ft long with the insulation stripped a bit at each end. I do the following:


  1. I pull remove the existing connector to the starter motor solenoid (small wire on the starter).
  2. I pull the cover off the fuse panel in the engine compartment and expose the jump start terminal
  3. I turn the ignition switch to the run position
  4. I hold one end of the wire on the exposed jump start terminal and then touch the other end to the exposed terminal on the starter solenoid
  5. The starter motor should start spinning as soon as you touch the solenoid terminal and the engine should start.
  6. The starter motor will spin without the ignition switch turned to run; but, the engine will not start.

My jump wire is the 'deluxe' model. I have an alligator clip on one end which I can clip to the jump terminal so I don't have to hold it in place. The wire has a 15 or 20 amp in-line fuse in case I screw up and touch something I shouldn't with the other end. Finally, I crimped a quick disconnect bullet terminal on the other end to touch the solenoid contact. Avoids a loose strand of uninsulated wire touching something it shouldn't.
 
For step 1, is there only one wire for the connector and if it is red? I'd hate to jump the wrong terminal.

Thanks.

Old Guy said:
I have a picture showing what I am doing; but, right now Prime is saying that .jpg is not a valid file so we need to go with test.

Use a piece of #16 gauge wire about 5 ft long with the insulation stripped a bit at each end. I do the following:


  1. I pull remove the existing connector to the starter motor solenoid (small wire on the starter).
  2. I pull the cover off the fuse panel in the engine compartment and expose the jump start terminal
  3. I turn the ignition switch to the run position
  4. I hold one end of the wire on the exposed jump start terminal and then touch the other end to the exposed terminal on the starter solenoid
  5. The starter motor should start spinning as soon as you touch the solenoid terminal and the engine should start.
  6. The starter motor will spin without the ignition switch turned to run; but, the engine will not start.

My jump wire is the 'deluxe' model. I have an alligator clip on one end which I can clip to the jump terminal so I don't have to hold it in place. The wire has a 15 or 20 amp in-line fuse in case I screw up and touch something I shouldn't with the other end. Finally, I crimped a quick disconnect bullet terminal on the other end to touch the solenoid contact. Avoids a loose strand of uninsulated wire touching something it shouldn't.
Click to expand...
 
The 1991 service manual says the wire to the starter motor solenoid is black/white. There is only one small wire to the starter. The main connection is a large bolted connection. I would post a picture of the starter motor from the service manual showing the solenoid terminal; but, for some reason the attachment function for posts does not accept any of my .jpg files.

You can find the starter picture on page 23-81 of the 1991 service manual. The connection to the solenoid is marked as the S terminal.
 
it is easy enough if there is just one wire. I won't have to worry about jumping the wrong terminal and damage something.

Thanks again.

Old Guy said:
The 1991 service manual says the wire to the starter motor solenoid is black/white. There is only one small wire to the starter. The main connection is a large bolted connection. I would post a picture of the starter motor from the service manual showing the solenoid terminal; but, for some reason the attachment function for posts does not accept any of my .jpg files.

You can find the starter picture on page 23-81 of the 1991 service manual. The connection to the solenoid is marked as the S terminal.
Click to expand...
 
clutch switch

has anyone ever tried just place a small magnet to cover the hole in the clutch pedal tab . I bought spare switch pads a while ago in case of this problem and i know how difficult it is to get to that switch . What do think Old Guy ? just as a temp to get you going

As a temporary solution it might work. The problem is that there is not a lot of space up there so the magnet would have to be a fairly small flat disk. It is probably not going to stay in place for long relying just on the strength of the magnet. The other consideration is that magnets are usually sintered (or similar) and they are not structurally strong.

If you are looking for a temporary fix to get you out of the parking lot and home, I would go with the jumper wire to the starter motor.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This happened to me twice. I ended up stabbing the grommet with a 90 degree metal pick/hook and maneuvered my hand until I was able to position the grommet so I could press it in. To many cramps trying to do it bare handed.
 
nis350 said:
it is easy enough if there is just one wire. I won't have to worry about jumping the wrong terminal and damage something.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Here is a photo from the SM showing the starter. S is the terminal for the solenoid coil that you want to use when 'bumping' the starter motor.

Starter solenoid.JPG
 

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