Trying to make sure I can fit a 235 NT01 up front and I need -2.5 negative camber. I think Hrant said that works. How are you guys getting 2.5? Camber kit made by Comptech? I remember vaguely reading there is a better way to do this and not to get the camber kit, no matter how much I search now I can't find that post.
Is there any reason I wouldn't get the Comptech kit? Does Ti Dave make this?
Dave - just to clarify, the camber kit will help "minimize to eliminate" the outside fender rub with also some adjustment on the height of your NSX, suspension set-up, and all depending your starting point and how much camber you add and how much rub is acceptable. The camber kit will not resolve the insider rub of a 235/40/17. Yes I used the Comptech option, but Shad used only half of the kit (not sure if it was only the top or the bottom part).
I have both a camber kit made my comptech and a adjustable kit made my Steve Ghent who does the ball joints he makes an adjustable kit that you can turn to dial the camber when the ball joint is out as opposed to the comptech kit which is pressed in
Also call Steve Ghent that rebuilds the ball joints. He makes a slick adjustable lobe, same as the comptech but with a hexed end to turn them (Still requires popping the ball joints to change camber) they are unlisted, but he made a pair for my car. Haven't used them to see if they slip yet, buy FYI they're out there.
I have the Comptech camber kit.
In fact I had only the top part installed as my initial motivation was to get the tires to clear the fender.
The added advantage was of course to get the camber to 2.5° negative.
I'm running 235/40*17 Toyo R888.
It works OK for me but I have some doubts this has not hurt my straight line tracking over bumps?
Comptech use to sell another kit to correct that but I forgot how it's called?
In any case I don't know who would be able to set it up correctly?
yes about 2 deg - on oem or close ride height.I think there are two ways to play, one kit reduces the neg camber to give less - when the car is slammed vs a kit that give more - without lowering.
you could have more, but it is a law of diminishing returns.You need a very precise wheel offset to fit 235 nto1's without modifying the liners.Plus you might need to remove those finned plastic fan shrouds in the front of each wheel well.
Running NT01 235/17 with -3.2 deg. up front with heavily trimmed liners. I have the full CT camber kit and my car is moderately low. I believe we are running the same wheels and offsets. Sorry to report that with this tire you're going to have some rubbing issues, it's just the way it goes with stock fenders originally designed for 15" wheels.
why are you guys running so much negative camber up front? do you street drive the car like that too? Is all that an attempt to clear the tires or do you actually want that much on the track? I can't imagine tires lasting that long with that kind of setup.
Robert yes we have the same wheels and about the same drop. 37 et to clear the stoptechs. is the fender itself at any risk of physical damage? the fender liner is a cheap part that can be replaces, right? or cant i just remove it for a track event? is it that bad? of course I do have to drive to the track and back. Now I wish I would have bought Hrant's hoosiers and got a set of wheels. somehow get my wheels and tires to the track.
why are you guys running so much negative camber up front? do you street drive the car like that too? Is all that an attempt to clear the tires or do you actually want that much on the track? I can't imagine tires lasting that long with that kind of setup. .......
Dave, at the track the challenge is to maintain or maximize speed at the turns and camber helps with turn-in. Given the inherent understeer of the NSX, and almost all track oriented tires require a heavy dose of camber (-3 and more), the -2.5 is the minimal compromise for also street driving. Toe affect wear more than camber in my experience.
And yes, the Hoosiers are the best solution all around - if you have the means/option to get them to the track. All my friendly "haulers" have retired from tracking .... at least for now!
What i thought of doing as a compromise was run the r6 in 225 up front with the 275 nt01 rear....take the 2 front tires in front with me in the car driving to track on the nto1 rear and another street front set....swap at track and see how that goes.
why are you guys running so much negative camber up front? do you street drive the car like that too? Is all that an attempt to clear the tires or do you actually want that much on the track? I can't imagine tires lasting that long with that kind of setup.
As Hrant said, running -3+ negative camber has nothing to do with your fenders and everything to do with optimum suspension set-up. All the major race tire manufacturers recommend -3+ degrees up front. The tracks I most frequent have very fast off camber corners which will compress my suspension and under full compression the contact patch is optimal. Before I installed the camber kit I could coax about -2.2 degrees out of the front and I was 'rolling or tucking' the front tires. I was seeing wear all the way up the sidewall to the rim. A pyrometer is the best way to find out how much camber your car needs.
Robert yes we have the same wheels and about the same drop. 37 et to clear the stoptechs. is the fender itself at any risk of physical damage? the fender liner is a cheap part that can be replaces, right? or cant i just remove it for a track event? is it that bad? of course I do have to drive to the track and back. Now I wish I would have bought Hrant's hoosiers and got a set of wheels. somehow get my wheels and tires to the track.
Your fenders are not at any risk of damage from rubbing but your tires are if you haven't rolled your fenders. Without rolling them the tire can catch the inner edge of the fender and cut it. Rolling your fenders is easily done with a alloy baseball bat.
Rolling my fenders? yikes... this is a low mileage 05, that isn't exactly reversible and then what happens to the fender liner? Doesn't it need that "lip" to attach correctly?
Do you need the -3 and over negative camber only on slicks or would you do it even for an NT01?
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Thanks for the answers, I appreciate everyone's help.
Rolling my fenders? yikes... this is a low mileage 05, that isn't exactly reversible and then what happens to the fender liner? Doesn't it need that "lip" to attach correctly?
i have -3.5 on an Nt01 which is also considered a 'slick'. You dont need to pull your fenders, an increase negative camber pulls the top of your tire in getting it farther away from the fender. the problem is more with the INSIDE of the wheelwell, your tire will rub on the chassis. it'll only hit the liner on the front AC fan slats that are connected to the liner. If your lowered period and have an off or hit something the suspension will compress and you run the possibility of the tire grabbing and tearing the the liner out. I did this myself a couple times on an off ramp next to my old house with -2.0 deg of camber and a normal rideheight set up. I also did it at the track and the liner took the side maker with it. Who knew a replacement was worth the weight in gold. I would suggest taking the liners out regardless. what i did was spray a thin layer of undercoat rubberizer on the inside of the fenders after you remove the liners to deflect pebbles, when you have hot r-comps you'll be throwing pebbles all over the place and can ding the fenders from the inside. Learned that trick from ferarri guys.
watch this video from 3;08 and youll see what i mean
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