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Brembo F-50/Lotus caliper BBK, $4000 complete

The factory Honda brakes are biased with over 15% more clamping force in the front. Despite being mid engined, the NSX still (like a majority of cars) transfers more weight under braking to the front of the car. Due to this, Honda used an additional piston, larger pistons, and a larger pad in the front brake system for the increased brake force required and also used wider discs up front due to the increased heat generated.
Where did you get this 15% figure? Granted I did read your post and noted the "over 15%" but you could easliy have said the front has over 1% more clamping force than the rear and still be right. Was that just a random number or did you actually find that somewhere?

I think Dave's kit is a good one. Brembo's GT line has always been a great product that holds up to track abuse and fade, and always keeps a very consistant pedal feel. -big fan of Brembo's products. Ideally, Running F50's front and rear with a bias adjuster would be a better setup but then again, running Performance Friction calipers (sorry John, its better than Alcon :wink: ) front and rear with their own master cylinders and tilton pedal assembly & bias bar would be the best. But i'd haveto agree with Johns previous post. BUT, many prototypes in Grand Am, ALMS, JGTC run the same front/rear caliper, but you can't say that is 'proper' without considering their are far too many variables than just the caliper to affect brake bias (and the fact that those racecars have everything adjustable from bias bars, pads, to rotor veins).

Dave's setup would probably be the best bang/buck. I agree with a previous post saying that this kit should adequate for 500+hp cars on track use and perfectly fine for daily driven use. The bigger front and smaller rear caliper is 'safer' -just like the factory, allowing more force going to the front of the car which at its limit, will induce an understeer than a possible oversteer from recieving too much rear bias. So, this kit should be perfect for everyones use, and if a driver could reach the limits of this kit and finds a bit too much trail-braking understeer, then they could afford to buy a $100 bias adjuster to suit their needs. 95% of the people probably wont haveto worry about that so in conclusion, great bang/buck, good quality product, and should be an effective and safe braking system. I'm for it
 
WOW...........people are putting larger Rotors AND Calipers on the FRONT of cars NOW...........technology moves SO Fast.

Damn, somebody should tell HONDA and EVERY OTHER CAR Manufacturer..........I was going with the FULL DRUM brake UPGRADE :rolleyes:

Buddy, I got your car in the shop now, sound like a set 1969 Toyota Corolla drums will be on it when delivered!:wink:

PS, Will look for track 'shoes', but no promises!

Hey moderator, give him an infraction point, just 'cause...
 
Dave

I, for one, appreciate your efforts in doing R&D for our cars.

Although I am not in the market for a BBK for at least another 6 months, would it be possible for you to give some sort of estimate as to what size the rim would have to be along with its offset in order to fit without spacers?
 
Where did you get this 15% figure? Granted I did read your post and noted the "over 15%" but you could easliy have said the front has over 1% more clamping force than the rear and still be right. Was that just a random number or did you actually find that somewhere?

This number was based on calculations of a variety of factors including piston size, number of pistons, hydraulic pressure supplied to calipers (which is the same front and rear), disc size (roughly the same in stock form), pad surface area, etc.

As you said, many of the cars used in professional racing have identical calipers front and rear, however, these modify hydraulic pressure by specialized independent master cylinders or valving. I think the discussion is in context of street cars using factory brake hydraulics. Even the factory system is difficult to valve since each line running to the individual calipers is independent and trying to convince someone to buy proportioning valves with pressure gauges is probably unrealistic. Thus, in my opinion, the best systems for street/track use that will be using factory hydraulics are the ones that take the factory biasing into mind.
 
Fitting template for calipers:

Front
A B C
54 110 188


Rear
A B C
41 110 192

CaliperClearance460.gif

Dave
 
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This number was based on calculations of a variety of factors including piston size, number of pistons, hydraulic pressure supplied to calipers (which is the same front and rear), disc size (roughly the same in stock form), pad surface area, etc.

As you said, many of the cars used in professional racing have identical calipers front and rear, however, these modify hydraulic pressure by specialized independent master cylinders or valving. I think the discussion is in context of street cars using factory brake hydraulics. Even the factory system is difficult to valve since each line running to the individual calipers is independent and trying to convince someone to buy proportioning valves with pressure gauges is probably unrealistic. Thus, in my opinion, the best systems for street/track use that will be using factory hydraulics are the ones that take the factory biasing into mind.
So you did the math? What's your engineering background?
 
Please note update in template numbers. A small redesign made it so you don't need quite as much caliper clearance.

Thanks,
Dave
 
I am trying to get this wrapped up.

2 sets are still available as of Monday morning, I have had lots of interest but now I need to get going on building parts so if you are on the fence this is the time to get those questions answered.

The kits will be shipped with Brembo street/track pads, 2 bottles of Motul 600 brake fluid so it will be a complete kit, ready to go. I have a local guy who will paint the rear calipers to match, if everyone wants to go that way it will only add $100 to the cost, means you won't have the rear logo.

If you have a wide body, this set is perfect. For the rest of us with stock fenders, the will clear but you may need to run spacers on the front wheels. The hats are made like Comptech's, thicker to act like a spacer so some wheels will clear with out the need for spacers.

Please PM me if I can answer any concerns.
Thanks,
Dave
 
Sorry this has been sitting for a while. The proto-type set are at Factor X, they should have them on the their car next week, hope to get some pics then.

I need to wind this down soon, so if there is any more interest, please get in touch with me or you will miss out. My Brembo contact is in France for Le Mans, when he gets back I want to get this order together. Rotor hats will be done next week, caliper brackets are on the shelf so we will be good to go once the calipers are ordered.

Dave
 
Sorry, I don't have pics...Factor X has the only set and they are still working on their body!

If any one else is interested in getting in on this, I am ordering next week to get these kits going so please PM me if you want to get in on the deal.

Dave
 
Rotors and hats are coming in!!!

Check out the hats:
Full coverage for all the air flow to go through the center of the rotors!
Pocketed on the back side to reduce weight in an area which has no effect on strength!
Hats can be bolted to the hubs to make pad swaps easier!
Electro-less nickel finish is the hardest available for aluminum parts, so they will wear and keep looking good!
 
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So when do I get my set? :tongue:

If you are talking about the ones Mike and Ken @ Factor X have, I am wondering myself...:rolleyes:
 
These hats and rotors are a direct replacement for the Comptech Indy brake sets. I made extras and can sell them with out the calipers if anyone needs replacements.

PM me for prices, I have a couple of options for you.

Dave
 
If you are talking about the ones Mike and Ken @ Factor X have, I am wondering myself...:rolleyes:

Dave maybe you should get into the auto body business...
 
very interesting but how these brakes looking on nsx?:confused: :wink:

I will post pics when they are done! Factor X has the only complete set...and their car is????
 
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What brand rotors are you using?
What type of connectiong hardware from the hat to the rotor?
What pad compound are you supplying with the kit?

And what is the name of the person you are working with at Brembo Racing?
I'd like to ask him first hand a few questions about this kit vs. the one Brembo is still supplying.

I do like your price point better if it's comprable.
I have had experience with both the Brembo and Comtech kits in the past at a shop I used to work at.

I'm in the market for an NSX again, and my first two mods will be suspension and brakes. (best two mods for the track, hand down)

But I'm very interested in it being fully floating.
And I just want to make sure it's a Brembo disc, and not Coleman or something cheap like that to keep the cost down.

Thanks
 
What brand rotors are you using?

Kit uses Brembo Racing fronts(slotted) and Coleman rears(slotted, balanced, heat treated), can do all Brembo for an extra $200. I have had great luck with the Coleman rotors on the rear of my car, I have run them for years. The fronts don't hold up real well to heat shock.


What type of connectiong hardware from the hat to the rotor?

Full floating drive bobbins


What pad compound are you supplying with the kit?

Brembo Street/race pads, not sure of the number.

And what is the name of the person you are working with at Brembo Racing?

Mike Messina

I'd like to ask him first hand a few questions about this kit vs. the one Brembo is still supplying.

Brembo Racing does not supply kits, only parts. The aftermarket street division does the NSX kit.

I do like your price point better if it's comprable.

Bigger calipers and front rotors(race rotors are slotted and high quality than street), same size rear rotors and calipers.

I have had experience with both the Brembo and Comtech kits in the past at a shop I used to work at.

I'm in the market for an NSX again, and my first two mods will be suspension and brakes. (best two mods for the track, hand down)

But I'm very interested in it being fully floating.

It is full floating.

Keep me in mind for suspension parts, bushings, clamps, etc...
 
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