Boost Creep

Just a heads up...I read up on troubles with MAC solenoids and creeping last night. A few folks who found resolution cited the issue was because the solenoid inlet and outlet were backwards. I know this likely isn't the case based on the pics but I can't clearly see which is marked 1 and which is marked 2. It's possible the solenoid you have is configured backwards. Please verify that as well.

Also that rubber vacuum hose could be expanding under boost which could cause creep if it were significant enough...you really should swap those to silicone when you have the chance.
 
Ok. Well I think I can rule out the issue if being hooked up or the valve being backwards on the grounds that it worked fine at the end of my Dyno runs.

If it didn't work then I'd be more open to somethings.

I doubt the hoses are expanding. They have thick sidewalls and I'm not running high psi. My target is only set to 12 with a boost cut at 13.67 or so.

I had planned on silicone hoses at first with push locks but regardless you'll need a few rubber hoses coming off the wastegate or turbo or macvalve itself unless you get very creative with fittings, or you have a fabricator/machinist in your back pocket.

- - - Updated - - -

Lol! Oh yeah I forgot it was your post on the catch can thread. You must have this ability to ask just the right question to pull me out of my posting hiatus AND the perfect timing to catch me right when I'm not too busy at work. :smile:

So you mentioned two very key items in your post that might be very helpful clues.

1) Barb adapters - Adapters can cause an issue because just because the hose is the same size, the diameter of the opening to the solenoid has not changed. That will change your pressure.
2) Gain - That means you have a closed loop control system on your solenoid. Closed loop = PID loop. I'll explain what a PID loop is later, but basically if your sample rate, gain, or other parameters are too high, you can overshoot your target.

Don't do anything to your system yet. I'm wrapped up in work, but first chance I get, I'll breakdown the above and explain it better. It might give good clues/insight to your boost creep issue.

They actually do not make I believe 1/4 npt to 3/8barb. Or rather I should say they do but they are for notorious kits typically so they say on jegs and summit.

Regardless I'd think if I was the barb adapters they have a larger circumference then the older 1/8th barbs I was using before. Not many turbo setups I've seen actually run an equal size barb from wastegate to turbo.

I'm not touching anything though. Won't have a chance too until this weekend or maybe next. This is just real annoying because my car feels super slow.

But again what's odd is I can run a line from the turbo to side of wastegate and it be perfectly fine running off just spring pressure.
 
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Ok, so let's go over two of my concerns in detail so that we can potentially cross them off the list.

1) It's important to maintain diameter as much as possible to preserve a true reading both at your wastegate and solenoid. The reason is because total pressure is a function of static pressure and velocity pressure. Pressure(total) = Pressure(static) + Pressure(velocity). In simple terms the actual pressure you will see is made up of a static pressure, plus velocity (also known as dynamic) pressure. Static pressure is a pressure like the pressure in a balloon or an oxygen take. The air isn't moving, but if you put a gauge on a balloon or pressure tank, you it will measure a pressure reading because the walls of the vessel is exerting force on the air. Velocity pressure is different. It is the pressure of the air actually moving. Imagine putting your hand out the window of a car moving fast. You will feel the air pressing against your hand, even though there are no boundaries/vessel, like in a balloon or oxygen tank. The boost pressure air coming off of a turbo is made up of a combination of velocity pressure and static pressure. The tubing is creating a "vessel" and creating a static pressure, but the movement of the air is also creating a velocity pressure. The sum of both is the total pressure, and in this case would be the measured "boost" pressure that we are trying to control. One potential problem I see is the "choking" down of different barb sizes at different components. Meaning, if the reference pressure barb size is a different diameter than the solenoid, there could be a potential for different measurement readings. That's because given a mass flow rate, a chance in cross section area will change static pressure to velocity pressure and vice versa. This diagram below demonstrates what I mean:

fig3_46.jpg


This is basically how a nozzle works. Given a certain flow, if I choke down the diameter I can convert my static pressure to velocity pressure. This could cause some discrepancies depending on how the each component is measuring pressure. Sorry if I'm getting too technical (I am a Mechanical Engineer :redface:). Basically what that means is that if you have various barb sizes and diameters, there is the potential you could be getting different readings from the same reference pressure. In other words, if you had the same 12 psi coming from the boost side of the turbo feeding two different devices with different diameter inlets, there is the potential that they would read two different values from that identical pressure (even if the tubes connecting to them were the same). So even if you used adapter barbs to maintain the tube size, if they must pass through a specific orifice size, that could throw off your pressure reading.

Also, you'll want the length of piping/tubing to be as similar in diameter and length as possible. If one run is significantly larger, that could also throw off your reading. Imagine a given pressure, but two different sized balls. One ball is the size of a basketball. The other ball is the size of the Goodyear blimp. If you blew into each ball the same amount of air, which ball would register a higher pressure reading? Obviously the smaller one, not the Goodyear blimp. So if the tubing to wastegate is significantly shorter than the tubing to the solenoid, that could also cause a mis-matched reading.

2) So having said that, many boost controllers can compensate for that using a feedback loop. When you mentioned "gain" that immediately indicates to me that you have a feedback loop (aka PID loop). There are two types of boost controllers: open and closed. In an open loop, the solenoid valve position is pre-fixed for given conditions. It's like if I charged a flat fee "per plate" at a buffet. The other type of control system is a closed loop. That's where the system looks at what is going on, then decides what to do at that point. In the analogy above, rather than charging a flat fee "per plate" it would be the equivalent of looking at the plate, adding up all the different things in the plate, and then deciding how much to charge. So a plate with more lobster tails and steak, would cost more than a plate with lettuce and tomatoes. Whereas in the open loop, both plates would have cost the same.

How that relates to controls in a solenoid is that in an open loop control system, the solenoid opens to certain pre-fixed positions based on a boost pressure. It is much more simple and straight forward, but it can't take into account variations (like restrictions, dynamic changes to the system, or unequal system flows described above). A closed system on the other hand, will constantly monitor these valves and "self correct" as the system changes. This is obviously better because it's like a guy watching over your system and should anything change, he automatically changes the "programming" to compensate for this change. There are two main variables connected with this "self analyzing" that are critical. They are sample rate and gain. The sample rate is how frequently the system looks for measurement. The gain is how "fast" the system reacts to those measurements. While it would seem intuitive to increase the sample rate and gain so that the system "checks" itself frequently and "reacts" quickly, there such a thing as too much. Too much sample rate, and too much gain will result in a system that overreacts and over shoots it's intended target. A perfect example of this is how people react to a car that is fishtailing. They tend to overcorrect and fishtail the car in the other direction. This is one possible cause of boost creep. The graph below is a very indicative explanation of too much gain and overcompensation:

320px-Change_with_Ki.png


If you are trying to get to a value of 1 (like 1 psi of boost) you ideally want to something that looks like the red line. The black line would be a case where you have too much gain (too much overcorrection) and it overshoots your target. Like in the car fishtailing example above, it would be someone overcorrecting the steering wheel position and pushing the back end of the car in the opposite direction. Then correcting back in the opposite direction to compensate for the overcorrection. Ultimately what that means is that you will get more boost than what your target boost is; aka boost creep.

A few ways to check to see if you have too much sampling/gain on your closed feedback loop is to adjust the values of sampling rate and gain. Rarely you'll see boost creep with too little gain, although there may be a very few cases where this could happen. However, mostly likely you have too high of a sampling rate and gain and are over shooting your intending boost level. The other option is to see if you can put your system on a open loop and see if you get boost creep then. If you stay conservative with your open loop values, there should be no way to get boost creep: at least from a programming situation.

Sorry I got overly technical (at work I call it nerding it up). While the probabilities are small that either one of these are the root of your problem, they are REAL, ACTUAL and PHYSICAL issues that can occur, so it would be prudent to rule them out before moving on to the next diagnostic step. So in summary:

1) Try to maintain diameters from start to end (turbo boost outlet to wastegate reference port, solenoid, to wastegate control port). If you can't for some reason, try to maintain the same pressure reading across each component.

2) Cross check your closed loop PID control on your solenoid by either playing with your sample rate and gains, or switching to an open loop. ALWAYS stay conservative with these values to ensure you do not go lean and blow up your engine.

If you can rule these to items out, we can start to look into other areas that might be causing issues.

Again, sorry for the lengthy post, redundant info you may already know, and "nerding" it up with technical mumbo jumbo. But at least if I break it down comprehensively, at least it will be recorded and searchable sometime in the future for others to potentially use. :smile:
 
Those are some pretty fancy looking drawings you got there :biggrin:

I've been reading up on some issues on other forums lately. One mentioned about gain and something else. Wasn't to sure but understand it slightly more now looking at your graph.

I don't know though how to really mess with the hoses. I mean the wastegate barb fittings are 3/8th barbs. So for example here's 2x situations with setups.

First one "ideally all the stock fittings that the turbo hosing come with, mac valve, and precision wastegate. The turbo hosing has a 1/8 npt:1/4th barb, the mac valve has 2x 1/8npt:1/4th barb, and the precision wastegate has some banjo barb with 3/8barb. In this situation you'll using everything that they've supplied then you'll be looking at a brass T with some different sizes, and also a connection barb or something to change the top 3/8 banjo bolt hose to the 1/4th barb for the mac valve.

This first situation is pretty much what a lot of people run I think and haven't had issues. It's basically what you're talking about though since the smaller barbs are restrictions and variations on the pressure?

The next is mine where i have all the same diameter hose, and all the same size barbs with different adapters on it to make the barbs fit. Now this is essentially the same I'd think as the first example because although the adapters now I have are "restrictive" the first example is as well since the inner diameter of a 1/4barb is just as small I'd say.

Also remember this. My same setup from my turbo with the barb directly to the side of the wastegate works perfectly fine. "or that's what I think since it doesn't hit boost cut off".

I actually just read a post on a honda site where someone was having symptoms of boost creep like myself but didn't have them before. They said that they had creeping issues that gradually got worse on 2x boost controllers over the course of a few weeks. I think he managed to narrow it down to the front flat filter on the mac valve being clogged or something. Therefore when those ports were connected it didn't release the pressure enough. I think post number #13 may have given me some hope, haha.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/112244-boost-solenoid-damaged-heat.html

I did take the filter off last time when I was changing the stuff around and blew on it slightly. I'm going to take it off for a run and see what happens.
 
Ok, sorry I've been MIA lately. Work will do that.

So hopefully you were able to get some good diagnostics done over the weekend. Regarding the fitting/barb sizes, a change in diameter should be ok as long as it is consistent. So if one side of your wastegate is seeing multiple diameter sizes while the other side is not, then you can get different readings from the same reference pressure. So where you say:

My same setup from my turbo with the barb directly to the side of the wastegate works perfectly fine. "or that's what I think since it doesn't hit boost cut off".

A change in a diameter here is ok, because you are just changing static pressure into velocity pressure, but your total pressure will be the same. So in theory, if you T'd off and put both tubes into the wastegate (one into the reference port and one into the controller port) then they will have the same diameter changes and in theory see the same pressure. That's good. However, once you add the T, boost controller solenoid, adapters/barbs.. etc. if there are enough diameter changes, then the controller side port could see a different pressure than the reference side when all is said and done. That wouldn't be good.

A clogged, or overly restrictive filter will also imbalance flows or slow pressure release. That could also cause creep, but that's an easy check. If possibly do a few runs without your filter to see if that improves the creep. Don't run without your filter, but just to diagnose the problem a few times might be ok to check.

Hope you are getting closer to the solution!! :smile:
 
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You turbo creeps are much smarter than I! Good luck on the solution Stephen. After several blown motors I think Vega$ has finally learned something lol

I did. I learned how to make a lot of money to pay to fix a lot of blown motors. :smile:
 
Haha I've been Mia because of work too...

Didn't get anything done with my car but will do things Thursday along with my center console stuff. Maybe even tomorrow afternoon too.

I'm really hoping it's that filter, if it's not I have no idea and may just keep it slow forever :mad:
 
Update...

1st run, all hoses attached, solenoid power on, target 12psi on, no solenoid filter... Still have creep.

2nd run, detached top of wastegate hose, solenoid power off, target 12psi switch left on, no solenoid filter... Still have creep.

3rd run, detached top of wastegate hose still, solenoid power off, no target psi switch off, no filter, no creep

4th run, reattached top wastegate hose to solenoid, detached hose from right side solenoid, plugged solenoid hose "so that line runs from the turbo, to the side of the wastegate, no target psi switch off, put filter back on, still have creep..

These runs were done in various gears. I have log files. The last one was logged in 3rd and 2nd since I ran out of room in 3rd.

For the record I blew in the hose that I detached from the top of the wastegate and could blow air in. I asked my tuner if it was an issue like a rip in the diaphragm but he said no and that it would leak and cause creep under all conditions.

It sounds like the solenoid valve isn't venting the top of the wastegate air fast enough?

Vegas, any ideas? I did think about since I'm running all the same hoses that maybe I could put the smaller diameter hose from the turbo to the T back on. The pressure would stay the same but the amount of air it moves would decrease??

Just a thought. I can also send anyone my data logs too..
 
so what is the followup if any on this creepy situation
 
so what is the followup if any on this creepy situation

I f'ing gave up man. I'm just going to change some things out in the summer time.

As of now I've been driving around on wastegate spring pressure, feels kind of slow compared to what it was...

As for the diagnosis it made no sense when plumbing the lines certain ways. The only thing that kept it from creeping up was when I disconnected everything and ran directly from turbo to wastegate.
 
................creepy..............:redface:
 
Ahhh bummer man. Sorry I dropped off. Got busy at work and really couldn't check in like I normally would. I think we really covered everything the last time we talked. It's just so hard to diagnose from here; would be so much easier if I was there to see the results in person. I know running off of a lower boost pressure sucks. Any way you could put in a stiffer spring and just run off of wastegate but at a higher pressure?
 
Ahhh bummer man. Sorry I dropped off. Got busy at work and really couldn't check in like I normally would. I think we really covered everything the last time we talked. It's just so hard to diagnose from here; would be so much easier if I was there to see the results in person. I know running off of a lower boost pressure sucks. Any way you could put in a stiffer spring and just run off of wastegate but at a higher pressure?

It's cool man. I ran the tests the best I could and then got busy as well. I could just put in a stiffer spring but at this point if I change anything now it'll be for a different Y pipe and exhaust setup so there's a few options right now.

I truthfully don't drive it much and it sits parked. This winter in PA has been pretty stupid thus far being we got snow. When I do have time it's usually like a day thing to pull my car out.
 
What is the A/R of your turbine housing?
 
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