Boost Creep

The air to water will have less pressure drop resulting in more boost but I can't imagine it making too much of a difference. What boost levels were you getting before with the A2A?

It was a huge core(approx 28"x20-24?"x3" not including end tanks), so the pressure drop(and potentially back pressure from compressor side?) difference could be larger than normal.

From memory I think it was spiking to 16ish then tapering to around 14.
 
Guys look what I found. I found my first dyno and my 2nd dyno both on my original kit before I went with an a2w intercooler and electronic boost controller. So you can see the wastegate worked fine there.

I know that it doesn't prove anything really. I still need to diagnose and rule things out now.

Back in 09
<img src="http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/First_dyno.jpg" />

Back in 11
2nd_dyno.jpg


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Momin, can you confirm that nothing was changed from when we dyno'ed the first time and the second time? Like wastegate and springs were the same or different?
 
Hi sorry, didn't read the whole thread but it's very unlikely that you will get boost creep with that tial wastegate.

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Double post, went back and read the whole thread. There are some serious experts in the forum but the Tial wastegates are known to not leak and what the other guy was saying about unhook any electronic boost controller you have going on and run it off the spring and the wastegate makes the most sense. I trust Tial, I don't really know much about that other brand that you got swapped to.
 
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this is a very appropriate thread title as we approach Halloween:biggrin:.
 
Guys look what I found. I found my first dyno and my 2nd dyno both on my original kit before I went with an a2w intercooler and electronic boost controller. So you can see the wastegate worked fine there.

I know that it doesn't prove anything really. I still need to diagnose and rule things out now.


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Momin, can you confirm that nothing was changed from when we dyno'ed the first time and the second time? Like wastegate and springs were the same or different?


Nothing was changed, all components remained the same. But your dyno plots depict what we've both stated already, it used to spike and then taper.

Your new issue is boost creep(opposite of the old behavior), the answer is in this thread of suggestions, just need to cancel stuff out to identify the culprit.
 
this is a very appropriate thread title as we approach Halloween:biggrin:.
Man I hope I can get this resolved soon. There's another track day at VIR I kind of want to make before the season ends!


Nothing was changed, all components remained the same. But your dyno plots depict what we've both stated already, it used to spike and then taper.

Your new issue is boost creep(opposite of the old behavior), the answer is in this thread of suggestions, just need to cancel stuff out to identify the culprit.

Gotcha. Yeah I'll be messing around with stuff this weekend/Monday.
 
Man I hope I can get this resolved soon. There's another track day at VIR I kind of want to make before the season ends!

well you seem very hands on and knowledgeable about your turbo and the advice here is sound, i have no doubt you will. btw i'm happy to see the track bug biting.
 
Oh and stop your turbo from watching this:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/tLPZmPaHme0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
So after a wasted day of diagnosis that took longer then expected I think I found the issue, but here's the steps in what I took to isolate it...

Action: Bypass the mac valve by cutting the top wastegate line so it can vent to atmosphere again and then take the side wastegate line and run it directly to the turbo. Running off wastegate spring only.

Cars reaction to previous: Ran fine, no issues. Did pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear wot.

Next action: I put hook the mac valve back up, I checked the T, the lines, also the little filter on the mac valve itself I took off and blew air out to make sure it was working correctly. My tuner told me also that air should be blowing from the left side out to the front, and if you blow air from the right side in nothing should enter. I confirmed that as well.

Action: Both with the mac valve activated and not via a switch it cut out. So running the car with the wastegate spring pressure but still going through the mac valve itself caused an issue and also running it itself...

Next and final step: bypass the mac valve again and put it back to normal.

Next step action: didn't run it again since I have jury duty tomorrow and need to wake up early... but I'll assume it's fine...


I'm not really quite understanding it but I guess these things go bad? My tuners never heard of one malfunctioning before so it's quite odd, especially since the tests check out with the air flow.

I also thought for a second maybe the top of the wastegate wasn't functioning properly like the line was somehow messed up but that I kind of ruled out because even when I was running only wastegate spring pressure through the mac valve it still cut out.
 
So it continues. Installed a new mac valve and wired it up, and I still get boost creep.

Pretty much stuck at this point. Thinking that it runs fine just on wastegate spring maybe I'll just switch back to a manual boost controller. I'm thinking though the last thing may be something is wrong with the top of my wastegate port itself since that's really the only other line that's being connected?

I'm pretty much stumped though since it was fine on the dyno, and ran at VIR fine with the boost solenoid turned off, but now even with it off it creeps up.
 
vegas once again impresses with the creep.....
 

Do'h, I think he may be right. It's confusing based on the various angles of the pictures, but it appears that you have your wastegate piped as shown here:

Wastegate_zpsc968fb4d.jpg


Where it looks like your boost controller port (top part of wastegate) is connected to the "T" and the turbor pressure port. That's incorrect. It should be connected to the solenoid and the reference port (middle connection) is connected to the "T" and turbo pressure port (as in the quoted picture from FOoBot).

Try making that change and see if that resolves the issue.
 
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I have it plumbed correctly guys. The AEM diagram posted "not by Vegas" is the one I followed.

Side of wastegate goes to T which goes to the right side of the mac solenoid and to the turbo. The top side of the wastegate goes to the left side of the solenoid, and then middle spot is a filter on the mac solenoid.
 
Ok, so let's go back a few steps and see if we can track down the problem. I think you answered this but can you clarify: When you run on the wategate spring and diaphragm alone and completely disconnect/un-plumb the solenoid, do you get any boost creep problems? I think you said "no" but can you 100% confirm?

If that is truly the case then the wastegate can probably be ruled out as the problem.

Next when you wire and plumb in the solenoid, we know that when it is being controlled you are definitely getting boost creep, but you are saying that when you disable control of the solenoid, you are still getting boost creep??? That shouldn't be happening because the solenoid should be fail close. That means that if you have no power to the solenoid it should be perfectly closed and the wastegate should operate as if were operating on spring alone (which you confirmed above, should be working properly).

If, IF, the wastegate is working properly, then the only ways I can think that you would get creep building up (with the solenoid unpowered and unpowered-closed) is if the solenoid valve was plumbed in incorrectly, or you are getting leaking past the solenoid. You state you are positive that solenoid/wastegate are plumbed properly? You may want to double check just to be sure. It may seem really dumb and obvious, but in troubleshooting no double checking is ever too dumb.

If everything is piped correctly, have you been able to confirm you have no blow-by or leakage across the solenoid. Is the solenoid rated for the psi duty? Remember boost creep will occur when pressure of the boost controller port is somehow higher than it is supposed to be, or at least higher in relation to the reference port. Now if you were powering up the solenoid, there are a number of factors that could affect that (above situation). Blockages on the reference port pipes or T. Uneven diameters, or significantly longer piping between the two port piping. However, as mentioned above, if the solenoid is unpowered closed, then technically there should be no pressure on that side of the wastegate and it should function on spring alone. Something's causing a pressure on that side of piping. Is there any way to pressure check your solenoid? Is there any way to put a gauge on the boost control port side piping after the solenoid?
 
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Ok, so let's go back a few steps and see if we can track down the problem. I think you answered this but can you clarify: When you run on the wategate spring and diaphragm alone and completely disconnect/un-plumb the solenoid, do you get any boost creep problems? I think you said "no" but can you 100% confirm?

If that is truly the case then the wastegate can probably be ruled out as the problem.

Next when you wire and plumb in the solenoid, we know that when it is being controlled you are definitely getting boost creep, but you are saying that when you disable control of the solenoid, you are still getting boost creep??? That shouldn't be happening because the solenoid should be fail close. That means that if you have no power to the solenoid it should be perfectly closed and the wastegate should operate as if were operating on spring alone (which you confirmed above, should be working properly).

If, IF, the wastegate is working properly, then the only ways I can think that you would get creep building up (with the solenoid unpowered and unpowered-closed) is if the solenoid valve was plumbed in incorrectly, or you are getting leaking past the solenoid. You state you are positive that solenoid/wastegate are plumbed properly? You may want to double check just to be sure. It may seem really dumb and obvious, but in troubleshooting no double checking is ever too dumb.

If everything is piped correctly, have you been able to confirm you have no blow-by or leakage across the solenoid. Is the solenoid rated for the psi duty? Remember boost creep will occur when pressure of the boost controller port is somehow higher than it is supposed to be, or at least higher in relation to the reference port. Now if you were powering up the solenoid, there are a number of factors that could affect that (above situation). Blockages on the reference port pipes or T. Uneven diameters, or significantly longer piping between the two port piping. However, as mentioned above, if the solenoid is unpowered closed, then technically there should be no pressure on that side of the wastegate and it should function on spring alone. Something's causing a pressure on that side of piping. Is there any way to pressure check your solenoid? Is there any way to put a gauge on the boost control port side piping after the solenoid?

Ok let me try to answer everything since some of the stuff I'm still unclear with and have to logically think about the process of the solenoid.

Your first statement is correct with that when I run from the turbo port which is a 3/8th barb to the side of my wastegate which is also another 3/8th barb I get no creep. I mention the barb because most turbo's come with a 1/4th barb attachment but I upped that just because I thought running a standard diameter line would be better. Not sure if this is my issue or not but I don't want to remove the turbo hosing barb since I nearly cross threaded it so rather just leave it be. For a second I thought maybe, just maybe I had a leak at that port but since it runs fine directly going from the turbo to the top of the wastegate I ruled that out.

The wastegate I kind of think is ruled out since it does work, but that's why I mentioned the top may be defective? I'm not exactly sure what the top of the wastegate does.

The next portion I'm semi fuzzy on, but let me try to explain what happens or what my tuner said happens. We have a switched hooked in to activate a zero duty cycle for the solenoid. Therefore meaning it deactivates but is still plumbed when I flick the switch. It no longer clicks either. I forget what wire we tapped into for this but it was something on the factory harness that's none operational.

With the Mac valve plumbed correctly and the switch flicked on it creeps. With it flicked off and me running my set target of 12psi it would creep too on my old mac valve. This new one I didn't try since it did it on the lower setting I didn't feel like I should try it with the higher one since it creeped up anyways...

I bought the mac solenoid valves on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAC-Boost-s...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ca90d112&vxp=mtr

I did not use the barb fittings they provided since they were 1/4th barbs but I stepped everything up to match the wastegate banjo barbs which are 3/8th's.

On a side note my manual boost controller had a 1/8th barb to fit the turbo line, then on the other side it was a 3/8th barb going to the side of the wastegate.

I was reading about weather conditions and boost creep with a few types of cars where it's extreme in the colder weather. This is something I can't really test but am just wondering if maybe that's the issue and my Y pipe isn't ideal and it was boarder line and when switching to a water to air inter cooler it pushed the design to far?

As I understand colder air=denser air, although my old setup worked fine even in 0 degree weather I could rump on it.

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Also the solenoid is the same as AEM uses and that they re-badge, a lot of supra owners and other turbo owners run that mac valve part number with no problem and much much higher boost levels then I am.

I checked all hoses, and replaced all of them as well. The brass T I checked also. Everything has pretty much been checked since it's been off at least once so unless something circulated in my system then that's ruled out.

Vegas, what side are you talking about a blockage potentially? The side wastegate, T, Turbo port, and left hand side of the mac valve... Or the top of the wastegate to the left side of the mac valve?
 

Ah, it does look to be correct. These pictures have me wondering what the 3rd line is.

There should be a line with a tee that is boost source to the waste gate, turbo, and inlet of the solenoid. All the solenoid does is apply duty based boost pressure by either bypassing boost to the top of the waste gate diaphragm which essentially increases the spring crack pressure or venting it to atmosphere in cadence with the feedback/duty logic. In these photos there is a 3rd semi crushed line...what does that line go to?

The solenoid typically has 2 zero power states depending how it is wired, normally open or normally closed, you have it wired correctly or you would have blown up the engine already. I have seen some vendors using this solenoid putting unidirectional power plugs and some using bidirectional which are very easy to plug in upside down.

Interestingly enough I wonder if AEM's error/feedback logic is to blame here. Have you recently updated your firmware? In the past AEM has bugged the MAC solenoid error/feedback accidentally with a software update.
 
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The line in question that looks crushed is just a heat tube with the wires going through it . It's confusing but it's plumbed correctly.

The aem software my tuner is using he's used forever and hasn't been updated for quite sometime. He's never had an issue, and remember this was fine at the end if our Dyno runs.
 
Ok, yeah sorry my last message was all over the place. I had a million thoughts running in my head and I was multi-tasking at work before getting ready to shut down.

I think the best thing to do is bring it back to simple basics. You probably already know all of this, but I figured I'll start from scratch so this might be helpful for anyone following along and good for just a general refresher for me (it's been a while). (And also to retort to certain critics that claim I offer nothing of value except stupid cat pictures in the off topic forums). First let’s discuss the wastegate and how it works. You have two chambers in the wastegate. The first is where the boost pressure is basically “analyzed.” If the pressure is “acceptable” (below the spring rating), then it keeps a valve/plunger closed and allows all of the exhaust gasses to pass to the spool side of the turbo, which in turns, builds the charge side (boost pressure) of the turbo. If the boost pressure is too high, then the spring begins to open up a valve and the excessive exhaust pressure is released, or vented out and doesn't make it to the charge side of the turbo. In that way the boost pressure is limited. As the boost pressure falls, the valve begins to close and diverts exhaust gas pressure back into the turbo.

Wastegate+Diagram1290835338.gif


In the top chamber of the wastegate you have a reference port and a controller port. From the diagram you can see that the relationship between the two pressures is key to controlling how much exhaust pressure actually enters your turbo. Now, if the reference port is piped to the turbo outlet and the control port is capped, then the wastegate reference port will see the turbo boost pressure only. So in theory, when the turbo outlet pressure matches the spring pressure, it will begin to lift/open the exhaust plunger and release the excessive exhaust gas pressure, bypassing the charge side of the turbo. In this way, you can control the boost pressure to what the actual spring pressure is. So if you have an exhaust pressure of 5 psi, then the reference port will be 5 psi. If you had a 7 psi spring, then there would not be enough pressure to open the spring and it would send all of the exhaust pressure (5 lbs) to the charge side of the turbo. However, if the exhaust pressure was 12 psi, then the reference port would see 12 psi. Since the spring would still be at 7 psi, then (12 > 7) the spring would start to open at 7 psi and control/limit the amount of exhaust pressure the turbo sees and would hold the boost pressure to 7 psi. *In theory of course. The reality is that the spring will start to leak a bit before 7 psi.

WastegateADV1.jpg


So where does the controller port come into play? Let's say we want something other than 7 psi. A boost controller can alter the differential pressure between the reference port and the controller port by limiting or controlling the amount of pressure that the controller port sees, relative to the reference port. Let's say we have a solenoid piped in like the diagram above. If it is nominally closed (unpowered closed) then it would act like a capped controller port in the example above. The wastegate should operate on spring pressure alone. However, if I start to open the solenoid, I can push some pressure on the controller port side of the wastegate. In essence this helps build additional pressure on the spring side so that the reference port would have to build up more pressure on the spring to release the valve/plunger to release the exhaust gas pressures.

So if we have 12 psi of exhaust pressure, by opening up the normally closed solenoid, the control port can see, say 2 psi. That means the spring side of the wastegate would require 9 lbs of reference port pressure (7 psi from the spring + 2 additional psi from the turbo boost pressure). The boost pressure would rise and control to 9 psi before releasing exhaust pressure. This relationship is important because you can see that the additional pressure the wastegate can hold using an electronic boost controller is dependent on this differential pressure. If something was restricting the pressure on any part of the piping, you could false pressures on your wastegate. This is going to be much more prevalent if you have an open feedback loop on your boost controller, becasue there would be no way for it to know and adjust. The same thing could potentially happen if the pressures are not equalized, so that say the flow is restricted somehow (due to diameter changes, extra tubing length, restrictions, etc.) so that the same 12 psi of boost pressure is not hitting the reference side port or solenoid at the same equal 12 psi. It's important to note that a change in diameters is not necessarily a good thing. Pressure is a function of flow and area (in this case cross sectional diameter). If you increase the diameter then you will decrease pressure. If you have different diameter connections between each of your components, as mentioned above, then each component will see a different pressure. If they are each seeing a different pressure, then it could help explain the boost creep problem you are experiencing. Now, your turbo side barb size isn't as critical because it will just be your baseline pressure, but all the other barb fittings downstream of that (wastegate, solenoid) need to be exactly the same diameter and tube diameter.

So now that I've had a chance to think about it some more, here's what I would try:

1) First and foremost, make sure all of the barb fittings and tube diameters are the same downstream of the turbo barb. Everything should be consistent from the wastegate, to the solenoid all the way back to the turbo, including the T fittings. You shouldn't technically have to change the turbo fitting. Although I've seen weirder things happen.
2) Next keep the boost controller solenoid in place, but disconnect the tubing to the wastegate on the control barb. Leave it open so it gives a zero pressure input. In theory you should be running on spring pressure only.
3) On the loose tubing from the solenoid, put a snug but not tight plug to cap that side and disable control of the solenoid.
4) Run on spring pressure and see if you get any boost creep in this configuration. You shouldn't so it will be very telling if you do. Check the loose tubing from the solenoid and snug cap on the tubing. If it is still in place then your solenoid is good. However, if the plug has shot off, it means your solenoid somewhere is leaking pressure by and that is no good.
5) Next reconnect your solenoid control but do not connect it to the wastegate control port yet. If you have any means to measure the pressure on that tube that would be great. If not, put the snug plug on that side and try running again. This time you can verify that the solenoid is opening and should shoot the plug off.
6) Finally reconnect the boost controller solenoid to the control port of the wastegate and test again.
7) If you are getting boost creep at this point, we might have to look at your boost controller programming. You'll have to verify if it is an open loop or closed loop control and then we can go from there.

Sorry for the convoluted mess but it's hard to type out; much easier if I was there just looking at it. But hopefully you got something useful out of this and maybe help solve the issue. :smile:
 
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The line in question that looks crushed is just a heat tube with the wires going through it . It's confusing but it's plumbed correctly.

The aem software my tuner is using he's used forever and hasn't been updated for quite sometime. He's never had an issue, and remember this was fine at the end if our Dyno runs.
Yep the software is aempro. Aem has not updated this for years. Logs showed 0% duty on wastegate output and still having creep.

If its only doing it when the solenoid is plummed im still thinking it is a leak in the lines likely at or around the T before the solenoid.
 
Jez Vegas. You chimed in on my breather tank thread a long time ago with your knowledge and I still read that thing. This last post I'll be reading for years to come too and I'm sure others will as well!

But to clarify what you're saying and to address your bullet points "btw if I'm not understanding things it's because, well I need to reread it again"
1. All the fittings are the same size now and have been since I switched from my manual boost controller to the electronic one, including the T fittings and barbs. They're all the same hose. I think the barbs are all 3/8th's now. It's whatever size the precision wastegate banjo barbs were. The only thing I can even think of is that I used adapters to step up from the hole size in the mac valve since I think it's a 1/8 npt hole, along with the turbo. I think I used a 1/8npt to something, then something else, to finally the 1/8th barb. "also note all my fittings are tight so what Matt was saying about a leak in the line around the T or before the solenoid can't be. Everything is tight and has honda high temperature bond on it. Again the only one that may be suspect is the turbo pressure one.

2. So disconnect the hose from the TOP of the wastegate and stick a rubber cap on the banjo bolt itself. That would leave the left side of the boost controller hose open.

3. So referring to the hose above loosely cap it. I'll need to figure something out that is loose enough to fall off but not tight enough to not give any feedback of what we're trying to do. Also when you say disable the boost controller do you say don't power it up? Like if I can switch off the 12 volt signal keep it off, or do you mean set it to my setting of 0 duty cycle with my switch?

4. Will do this step once confirmed on number 3 that I plug the correct barb tightly and the other hose loosely.

5. Could you break it down into dumbiy terms for me since I'm unclear? I don't have any means to measure the pressure on that hose. Also from my understanding is this is capped from step number 3 though right already?

6. Will do

7. I was reading last night about gain and such set for my mac valve and that if it's to aggressive the boost will shoot up to fast or something? I don't know but just something I thought about.

Another note and question Vegas. I have that flat filter that is included in all mac valves not purchased directly from AEM. Even SOS sells the mac valves with this flat filter in the front. I took it off and can blow threw it but meet some resistance. Would that have anything to do with it, should I connect a barb and a hose or do a run with it completely open? The last thing I want is for something to get lodged in there and for something to happen so that's why I mention I could stick a barb fitting and a hose routed to no where to keep any foreign debris from going in there.
 
Lol! Oh yeah I forgot it was your post on the catch can thread. You must have this ability to ask just the right question to pull me out of my posting hiatus AND the perfect timing to catch me right when I'm not too busy at work. :smile:

So you mentioned two very key items in your post that might be very helpful clues.

1) Barb adapters - Adapters can cause an issue because just because the hose is the same size, the diameter of the opening to the solenoid has not changed. That will change your pressure.
2) Gain - That means you have a closed loop control system on your solenoid. Closed loop = PID loop. I'll explain what a PID loop is later, but basically if your sample rate, gain, or other parameters are too high, you can overshoot your target.

Don't do anything to your system yet. I'm wrapped up in work, but first chance I get, I'll breakdown the above and explain it better. It might give good clues/insight to your boost creep issue.
 
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