Blown engine? bearing? camshaft?

ACURA DEALER DIAGNOSIS-

Well, I guess the noise was classic for them too. They offered to remove engine ($1500), and send to speed shop they use..in any event I think they want me out of their bay ASAP..

Spoke with Larry B this afternoon (I've known him about last 15 yrs) and agree with all those posts, I feel he is truly unique,honest person:smile:

Now the hunt is on for a reasonable used motor.

Anyone out there feel that the rebuilding option is worth a try?

Science of Speed products are excellent, and I'm assuming their work is equal but the cost of shipping even 1 way is over $1500 last time I looked..
Seems like by the time you factor labor, possible "unexpected" other damage, replacing the whole thing is less...provided I find an engine at a reasonable price..

What were some of the costs with rebuilding rod bearing (and perhaps another surprised failed part) VS total engine, which I'm hoping is around 5-6K for a 3.0L..:confused:
 
Well first off, a rod knock is fiarly easy to diagnose -it's hard to say from the video but it does sound like a top end problem - as I said, hard to tell in a video.

If you want to find a rod knock, you need to unplug the coils until you find that the noise stops - no combustion = no noise.

you can pull the coil covers and unplug them one at a time till the noise stops, if the noise never changes then it's not a rod.

Thanks Angus, I'll ask the dealer to do that Monday!
much appreciated!
At that point, would you consider just rebuilding the rod bearing? What do you think that is would be around?
 
ACURA DEALER DIAGNOSIS-

Well, I guess the noise was classic for them too. They offered to remove engine ($1500), and send to speed shop they use..in any event I think they want me out of their bay ASAP..

Spoke with Larry B this afternoon (I've known him about last 15 yrs) and agree with all those posts, I feel he is truly unique,honest person:smile:

Now the hunt is on for a reasonable used motor.

Anyone out there feel that the rebuilding option is worth a try?

Science of Speed products are excellent, and I'm assuming their work is equal but the cost of shipping even 1 way is over $1500 last time I looked..
Seems like by the time you factor labor, possible "unexpected" other damage, replacing the whole thing is less...provided I find an engine at a reasonable price..

What were some of the costs with rebuilding rod bearing (and perhaps another surprised failed part) VS total engine, which I'm hoping is around 5-6K for a 3.0L..:confused:

my thought process....the first time was use the oportunity to rebuild top end with cams and port polish with a new stock bottom end(short block) and have a few more ponies,well that worked fine but in the end the aftermarket valve springs failed before I had a chance to refresh them.....the second time around I wanted oem reliability because running was more important than not running with a few more horsies,so I just kept my eyes peeled and a nice used 3.2 came up for sale,that was 6 years ago.
 
What the heck is it with #2 rod bearings? Same thing happened to me last year on track same noise not good. Had it flat bedded to Acura of Brookfield and took them a couple hours to give me the bad news. After dropping the oil pan you could uglyness #2 rod bearing started to let go. I was very lucky to have my car there at the right time a spare motor was available one owner 60K on it. Did all belts water pump valve adjustment etc along with a new clutch. My total tab was $10K included labor out the door. Car feels better than new actually pulls harder than the old built motor with cams porting etc. Good luck with who ever you take it to. Keep in mind your old motor will still be worth close to $3k to someone who wants to build it up as mine was.

Never thought about selling off the damaged old engine. How old was your NSX? 10K? car still needs repairs of cracks on bumpers. If it was newer (we wouldn't let my nsx read this, ok?) that wouldn't hurt so bad..
Thanks for that tip...Dennis
 
uhmm, so what was ACURA dealer's diagnosis?????????????????


ACURA DEALER DIAGNOSIS-

Well, I guess the noise was classic for them too. They offered to remove engine ($1500), and send to speed shop they use..in any event I think they want me out of their bay ASAP..

Spoke with Larry B this afternoon (I've known him about last 15 yrs) and agree with all those posts, I feel he is truly unique,honest person:smile:

Now the hunt is on for a reasonable used motor.

Anyone out there feel that the rebuilding option is worth a try?

Science of Speed products are excellent, and I'm assuming their work is equal but the cost of shipping even 1 way is over $1500 last time I looked..
Seems like by the time you factor labor, possible "unexpected" other damage, replacing the whole thing is less...provided I find an engine at a reasonable price..

What were some of the costs with rebuilding rod bearing (and perhaps another surprised failed part) VS total engine, which I'm hoping is around 5-6K for a 3.0L..:confused:
 
What the heck is it with #2 rod bearings? Same thing happened to me last year on track same noise not good. Had it flat bedded to Acura of Brookfield and took them a couple hours to give me the bad news. After dropping the oil pan you could uglyness #2 rod bearing started to let go. I was very lucky to have my car there at the right time a spare motor was available one owner 60K on it. Did all belts water pump valve adjustment etc along with a new clutch. My total tab was $10K included labor out the door. Car feels better than new actually pulls harder than the old built motor with cams porting etc. Good luck with who ever you take it to. Keep in mind your old motor will still be worth close to $3k to someone who wants to build it up as mine was.

Oil starvation issue during hard g cornering. Aparantly the number 2 bearing is the one that gets starved the most. Baffled oil pan will help after that next step is an accusump. Probably not necessary for day to day driving, but if I tracked my NSX, think I'd at least have the baffled oil pan.
 
Thanks Angus, I'll ask the dealer to do that Monday!
much appreciated!
At that point, would you consider just rebuilding the rod bearing? What do you think that is would be around?

I have repaired two NSX's that had a rod knock, pulled the pan and replaced the bearing after determining the crank was within spec.

If you can narrow the noise to one rod, no reason why you cannot have them pull the pan and inspect the bearings.

If the crank is undamaged and not out of round then replace the bearings and you may be fine, this is relatively little work even compared to removing the engine.

Maybe 5-6hrs labor? Bearings are under $50

MAYBE IT IS NOT A ROD>?

WHATEVER YOU DO - DON'T DRIVE THE CAR - you can idle it for the least amount of time necessary for diagnosis and don't rev it up too much.
 
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I have repaired two NSX's that had a rod knock, pulled the pan and replaced the bearing after determining the crank was within spec.

If you can narrow the noise to one rod, no reason why you cannot have them pull the pan and inspect the bearings.

If the crank is undamaged and not out of round then replace the bearings and you may be fine, this is relatively little work even compared to removing the engine.

Maybe 5-6hrs labor? Bearings are under $50

MAYBE IT IS NOT A ROD>?

WHATEVER YOU DO - DON'T DRIVE THE CAR - you can idle it for the least amount of time necessary for diagnosis and don't rev it up too much.

how do you know if a crank is within spec by just pulling the pan out? How you know mains & thrust bearings are ok? :confused:
 
It may not be as bad as you think. I have seen more than one engine torn down needlessly when the problem turned out to be an alternator or ac compressor - it is easy to rule out this problem by taking the drive belts off and seeing if the noise is still there. After spending 30 years in the car business I can also assure you that the diagnosis from the dealer may or may not be correct - a second opinion is called for without a doubt.
 
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Take a close look at the video again.... look at the wobble of that alternator belt! - ?harmonic balancer getting chewed up, ?loose belt.... I know for sure that my car does NOT do that when it idles.... Its wobbling alot...
 
Take a close look at the video again.... look at the wobble of that alternator belt! - ?harmonic balancer getting chewed up, ?loose belt.... I know for sure that my car does NOT do that when it idles.... Its wobbling alot...

Good eye - I agree!!!
 
I was willing to sell a good bottom end for 2500 and a set/single head at 500 bucks...

I dont understand why you would just ignore my posts.

I'll sell you a bottom end for 3500.00 and heads for 750.00 now.
 
so is ignoring people trying to help... you can get 41 hp at sos for 5 grand, a 1000.00 computer plus a 750 tune

I can replace someone motor for 3500 and be an asshole

Ross..maybe he is still proccessing information,maybe he is in shock,maybe he dos'nt know the extent of the damage,why do you get pissed when people don't accept your offers? Let your kind offer stand, and just accept his and for that matter other peoples choices:confused: Look at it this way,if a hot milf offered herself to you but something turned you off and you politely refused her advances how would you feel if she tormented you or got vindictive or whatever:wink:
 
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The video looks like a failed harmonic balancer to me. But what do I know.
 
I was wondering that as well. Oh well.

someone who always seems to understand this stuff



Ross..maybe he is still proccessing information,maybe he is in shock,maybe he dos'nt know the extent of the damage,why do you get pissed when people don't accept your offers? Let your kind offer stand, and just accept his and for that matter other peoples choices:confused: Look at it this way,if a hot milf offered herself to you but something turned you off and you politely refused her advances how would you feel if she tormented you or got vindictive or whatever:wink:

someone always trying to help me.... I appreciate it Doc... but a better analogy would be ... a group of transients sitting at freeway off ramp discussing which car would give them more change... ignoring a guy holding out a $20 bill

I don’t need acceptance of the offer... just acknowledgement its there... there are posts after mine saying... maybe you can find a used motor for cheap
 
I had to lol at the "always trying to help"....I don't know why your transients ignored the 20$ maybe they thought it was a fake,or had strings atached :confused: anyway lets see what his issues are.
 
The video looks like a failed harmonic balancer to me. But what do I know.

Yeah, I was wondering about the alternator belt myself. I couldn't tell if it was just a strong illusion, or if itsn't actually wobbling on one side.

The problem is the typical harmonic balancer failure is nearly silent...which is why it's so deadly (I've had it fail on my car, but caught it before it wore all the way through the cover). You have a slight vibration, and the only noise is the rubber ring abrading the plastic lower timing cover (well at least until it gets through the cover and belt...at which point you have other noises).

I thin it would be pretty bizarre for the pulley to shatter outright. Unless it was an aftermarket or different style from the early year cars so that it could fail in some other fashion.
 
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I had to lol at the "always trying to help"....I don't know why your transients ignored the 20$ maybe they thought it was a fake,or had strings atached :confused: anyway lets see what his issues are.

I have a lot of friends in PA... I try to visit often... plus... we dont get ying ling in AZ.. sduffass actually sends me cases some times.. i'll buy you a lager next time im in PA

as far as this dudes motor

My guess is harmonic balancer = motor done for

second possibility - his oil change buddy forgot to prime the accusump... changed the oil... he got the car back... primed the pump like he was supposed to.. and robbed his motor of 3 quarts instead of "prptecting it"

angus says meth injection helps turbos

sos says accusumps help prevent oil starvation

I say... if there is a part that not a single car manufacture includes when making cars... that is a race part only.
 
Good assesment! You should update your k20 track car thread....op sorry to ot your thread..I have a habit of doing that:redface:
 
Good assesment! You should update your k20 track car thread....op sorry to ot your thread..I have a habit of doing that:redface:

look it up on facebook... nsxprime wont put it in the build section... I wont update it untill its moved there
 
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