Bilstein Stock install
- Thread starter VADER33
- Start date
Great idea. I hadn't thought of that. I haven't really had any issues removing one of the swaybar endlink nuts but I'll have to try your method sometime.
Hello all.
A few questions before I start this DIY.
I have printed out the requisite pages from the maintenance manual and most of the nuts on the suspension are self-locking nuts and they all say replace. First question, can I just reuse the nuts?
Secondly, I am obviously doing the Bilstein on the lower perch with OEM springs. If I look at this picture from the Dali website (hope it is ok to copy and post these).
Correct mount
Incorrect mount
If you look at the bottom picture you can see the 2 grooves in the body of the shock. The ones I have have a split ring in one groove and the other groove is empty. Does that picture show the "lower" perch? To me that appears to be the "upper" perch. That is my second question. Which of the grooves is considered the "lower" perch?
Thanks for the help.
Dwayne
A few questions before I start this DIY.
I have printed out the requisite pages from the maintenance manual and most of the nuts on the suspension are self-locking nuts and they all say replace. First question, can I just reuse the nuts?
Secondly, I am obviously doing the Bilstein on the lower perch with OEM springs. If I look at this picture from the Dali website (hope it is ok to copy and post these).
Correct mount
Incorrect mount
If you look at the bottom picture you can see the 2 grooves in the body of the shock. The ones I have have a split ring in one groove and the other groove is empty. Does that picture show the "lower" perch? To me that appears to be the "upper" perch. That is my second question. Which of the grooves is considered the "lower" perch?
Thanks for the help.
Dwayne
Pic shows upper perch. Top groove is upper and bottom groove is lower perch.
Thanks "amengineering". That is what I wanted to know.
I am off to the garage to start the install.
Wish me luck.
Dwayne
I am off to the garage to start the install.
Wish me luck.
Dwayne
Thanks for all the information on this site, which greatly helped my shock/strut exchange.
Please make sure the car is stable on its supports, as this job will require applying forces to the car while you are vulnerable to a collapse.
Should this DIY be relabeled to reflect it applies to all shocks and make it easier to find?
Here is what I have summarized from what I learned, can add pictures and torque values if it seems worthwhile:
1992 NSX Strut/Shock Replacement
NSX Remove Front Strut
I did the left side first, which took many hours. Second side took about 1½-2 hours to totally replace. Used spring compressor to remove the first side, did the second side without it. The first side may have been excessively difficult because shock was old and seemed to extend an inch longer than newer shocks, so length of shock may be a factor.
Remove plastic dust shield from front of lower arm (3 10mm head screws)
Remove two metal retainers for speed sensor cable (4 10mm head screws), let speed sensor wire hang loose.
Remove lower strut bolt (17 mm head nut and bolt), push down on brake caliper to pull out bolt.
Remove 17mm head nut from torsion bar link, push down on torsion bar and withdraw stud.
Remove 12mm head bolt from chrome brake line retainer plate. Remove 12mm head nut and bolt from brake line bracket wrapped around strut and to let it slide freely.
Remove 14mm head bolt from rear of upper A arm
Remove 2 of 3 nuts from upper strut inside frunk, loosen third nut
Push down on lower A-arm via brake caliper (now swiveling freely) to slide lower strut out of lower A-arm. If needed, a 4-6’ long 2x4 can be placed under the body and on top of brake caliper to lever the lower arm down enough to clear the shock.
Remove the third upper strut nut, lower strut between lower A-arm and brake line, swivel top of strut out of wheel well and withdraw strut.
Use a spring compressor to reduce spring tension, then transfer new shock into the spring and upper tower. Use the indentation in the tower rubber and the lower spring stop to duplicate the orientation of the original shock.
Reassembly is virtually the reverse of removal, just have a shock tower nut readily available when you push the upper shock back into place so as to get at least one nut on to hold it up.
NSX Remove Rear Strut
Similarly to the Front Struts first did the right side, which took many hours. Second side took about 1½ hours to totally replace. Used spring compressor to remove the first side, did the second side without it.
Cover the half-shaft bellows with a shop towel to prevent damage.
Remove the lower rear hatch glass garnish by unscrewing 7 phillips screws with rubber washers, use a cloth to keep from belt-scratching the paint.
Remove the two forward upper tower bolts, leave the rearmost nut loose and ready to remove by hand.
Remove the stabilizer link nuts from the torsion bar and the lower A-frame, remove stabilizer link assembly.
Use a 4-6’ long 2x4 placed between the upper A-arm and lodged under the body to pry down the upper A-arm, which will lower the lower A-arm enough to slide the lower strut to the rear of the lower A-arm. You will need to be careful to get 2x4 under the body but not under engine components.
While supporting the strut from below, unscrew the final upper tower nut and let the strut come down gently between the lower A-arm and brake line.
Maneuver the lower strut between the torsion bar and lower A-arm to give room for the upper strut to pivot outwards and remove strut.
Exchange new shock into place using spring compressor and same method as front shock to align orientation of components.
Replacement is reverse removal.
Please make sure the car is stable on its supports, as this job will require applying forces to the car while you are vulnerable to a collapse.
Should this DIY be relabeled to reflect it applies to all shocks and make it easier to find?
Here is what I have summarized from what I learned, can add pictures and torque values if it seems worthwhile:
1992 NSX Strut/Shock Replacement
NSX Remove Front Strut
I did the left side first, which took many hours. Second side took about 1½-2 hours to totally replace. Used spring compressor to remove the first side, did the second side without it. The first side may have been excessively difficult because shock was old and seemed to extend an inch longer than newer shocks, so length of shock may be a factor.
Remove plastic dust shield from front of lower arm (3 10mm head screws)
Remove two metal retainers for speed sensor cable (4 10mm head screws), let speed sensor wire hang loose.
Remove lower strut bolt (17 mm head nut and bolt), push down on brake caliper to pull out bolt.
Remove 17mm head nut from torsion bar link, push down on torsion bar and withdraw stud.
Remove 12mm head bolt from chrome brake line retainer plate. Remove 12mm head nut and bolt from brake line bracket wrapped around strut and to let it slide freely.
Remove 14mm head bolt from rear of upper A arm
Remove 2 of 3 nuts from upper strut inside frunk, loosen third nut
Push down on lower A-arm via brake caliper (now swiveling freely) to slide lower strut out of lower A-arm. If needed, a 4-6’ long 2x4 can be placed under the body and on top of brake caliper to lever the lower arm down enough to clear the shock.
Remove the third upper strut nut, lower strut between lower A-arm and brake line, swivel top of strut out of wheel well and withdraw strut.
Use a spring compressor to reduce spring tension, then transfer new shock into the spring and upper tower. Use the indentation in the tower rubber and the lower spring stop to duplicate the orientation of the original shock.
Reassembly is virtually the reverse of removal, just have a shock tower nut readily available when you push the upper shock back into place so as to get at least one nut on to hold it up.
NSX Remove Rear Strut
Similarly to the Front Struts first did the right side, which took many hours. Second side took about 1½ hours to totally replace. Used spring compressor to remove the first side, did the second side without it.
Cover the half-shaft bellows with a shop towel to prevent damage.
Remove the lower rear hatch glass garnish by unscrewing 7 phillips screws with rubber washers, use a cloth to keep from belt-scratching the paint.
Remove the two forward upper tower bolts, leave the rearmost nut loose and ready to remove by hand.
Remove the stabilizer link nuts from the torsion bar and the lower A-frame, remove stabilizer link assembly.
Use a 4-6’ long 2x4 placed between the upper A-arm and lodged under the body to pry down the upper A-arm, which will lower the lower A-arm enough to slide the lower strut to the rear of the lower A-arm. You will need to be careful to get 2x4 under the body but not under engine components.
While supporting the strut from below, unscrew the final upper tower nut and let the strut come down gently between the lower A-arm and brake line.
Maneuver the lower strut between the torsion bar and lower A-arm to give room for the upper strut to pivot outwards and remove strut.
Exchange new shock into place using spring compressor and same method as front shock to align orientation of components.
Replacement is reverse removal.
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