Got mine from Dali.
Bilstein Stock install
- Thread starter VADER33
- Start date
Got mine from Dali.
A couple notes on my Bilstein install that may help future DIYers.
The leverage idea is great. I found that a 2x4 on the rotor was a bit too large. Instead, what I used was an impact socket taped to the rotor for the rears. It was just enough to clear and held in place well. The front rotors didn't really need so much leverage and the rotor spins so I never really found a good solution for it. I used these big square rubber pieces from some car ramps I had.
The most useful tool for the front struts was a large pipe wrench to twist the strut so as to clear the castle nut which interferes with the bracket nut on the strut that holds the brake line. I also used the pipe wrench to twist the strut so that the eye will align into place.
Rears are harder than the fronts. I don't see how they were easier for some. Having another person for the rears would have definitely made things easier.
The leverage idea is great. I found that a 2x4 on the rotor was a bit too large. Instead, what I used was an impact socket taped to the rotor for the rears. It was just enough to clear and held in place well. The front rotors didn't really need so much leverage and the rotor spins so I never really found a good solution for it. I used these big square rubber pieces from some car ramps I had.
The most useful tool for the front struts was a large pipe wrench to twist the strut so as to clear the castle nut which interferes with the bracket nut on the strut that holds the brake line. I also used the pipe wrench to twist the strut so that the eye will align into place.
Rears are harder than the fronts. I don't see how they were easier for some. Having another person for the rears would have definitely made things easier.
Just as a warning to guys doing this install in the future, I busted both of my CV boots when installing the rear struts. I knew it wasn't good when each time I popped the strut out that it hit my CV boot. So maneuvering the strut out, I managed to make small tears into each boot which I didn't even see at the time. I discovered the leaks when I replacing my rotors, there was grease all over the inner part of my rims.
I took the car to Ramon to have the boots replaced. He says he sees this happen to people all the time, FYI! Fronts were easy. If I could do it all over again, it would have been better and cheaper just to have a good shop like Niguel Motors do the work for me.
I took the car to Ramon to have the boots replaced. He says he sees this happen to people all the time, FYI! Fronts were easy. If I could do it all over again, it would have been better and cheaper just to have a good shop like Niguel Motors do the work for me.
Thanks for the great tips, everyone. I thought I would add a couple of notes from my experience.
- It's actually possible to remove the fronts without any prying or levers. I removed the ABS wiring armor so that the wire wouldn't be in the way, and by wiggling the front suspension up and down, and getting it in just the right position, I was able to get the shocks out. It's like a puzzle. However, if the shock is wedged in the mounting flanges, then you will probably need to leave a top nut on as others have said and use a lever to pry the suspension down to get it free.
- The rear definitely needs the 2x4 pry bar technique. Remember to stick the 2X4 lever into the gap between the upper control arm and the frame toward the front of the car--not behind. Otherwise, you're trapping the shock and you won't be able to get it out.
- It's actually possible to remove the fronts without any prying or levers. I removed the ABS wiring armor so that the wire wouldn't be in the way, and by wiggling the front suspension up and down, and getting it in just the right position, I was able to get the shocks out. It's like a puzzle. However, if the shock is wedged in the mounting flanges, then you will probably need to leave a top nut on as others have said and use a lever to pry the suspension down to get it free.
- The rear definitely needs the 2x4 pry bar technique. Remember to stick the 2X4 lever into the gap between the upper control arm and the frame toward the front of the car--not behind. Otherwise, you're trapping the shock and you won't be able to get it out.
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I don’t have real pics to share (I’ve had my shocks out multiple times, but forgot to take pics), but I’ll try and give a few pointers.
Instead of trying to track down the fattest guy on the block what you do is use leverage to your advantage. What you need is a 4’ to 6’ piece of 2X4. There happens to be a spot on the frame, both front and rear, that makes a perfect place to pry from. Stick the 2X4 under this spot and on top of the brake rotor. The dust shields are larger than the rotors and you don’t want to pry on them, so you will need a small piece of wood (maybe 4” to 8” of 2X4) to place on top of the rotor (see the sketch). Now all you have to do is sit on the 2X4 and pry. This allows you to pry (using your butt) and still work with your hands to get the shock out. It turns a supposed 2 man job into a 1 man job and it works perfectly.
Another trick is to not completely remove the 3 upper nuts that hold the shock to the frame until after you have done the prying (obviously at this point the bottom shock bolt has been removed). Only completely remove 2 of the nuts and leave the last nut hanging on by only a couple of threads. If all 3 nuts are removed, and you begin prying, the shock will follow the A-arm. The shock fits in the A-arm very tightly and it is a pain to get it out of the A-arm if the shock is no longer connected to the frame. The prying action will remove the shock from the A-arm automatically and then you can remove the last nut.
With this method I have had all 4 shocks out of the car in less than 45 minutes which included jacking the car up and removing the wheels.
Hope this helps.
Just wanted to revisit this post to confirm that this is indeed excellent advice fpr removing your struts. I used a jack handle instead of a 2x4, but it worked just as well. I actually got all four dampers out using this method, WITHOUT a 2nd person to help, and without spring compressors.
The trick is to leave the one rear nut on your upper shock mount in place, but loosened as mentioned above. It's important that it's the REAR nut, as this allows you to pop the lower shock mount out (using prybar against frame) and shift the shock assembly toward the rear of the car. Once the lower section is completely out of the mount, the whole thing drops right out.
I originally tried using a compressor for the rear, but found it actually made things harder. Once I figured out the sequence, the rears only took about 15 minutes each.
ALSO: I wrapped my CV boots very well with some shop rags and duct tape, just to be on the safe side. A few times the shock would touch the boot and I felt it was important to protect them, especially since they're only a year old. They came through the operation undamaged.
Great post XperiMental. Thank you!
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nice.
i always use spring compressors... acturally use 2 spring compressor on each spring to get it out easier and the job goes by pretty quickly.
I look foward to definitly trying the 2x4 trick
i think a combo of spring compressor and the 2x4 would work great since when you pull out the structs your not having it push full force on the cv boot if its an one man operation.
rebooting the cv joints is a nightmare "3" man job. :biggrin:
i always use spring compressors... acturally use 2 spring compressor on each spring to get it out easier and the job goes by pretty quickly.
I look foward to definitly trying the 2x4 trick
i think a combo of spring compressor and the 2x4 would work great since when you pull out the structs your not having it push full force on the cv boot if its an one man operation.
rebooting the cv joints is a nightmare "3" man job. :biggrin:
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I'd heard the rears were trickier than the fronts so I was all prepared with the spring compressors to go to battle. The problem I had was that one clamp bolt was so long it protruded down into an opening in the upper control arm and essentially locked the strut assembly in place. I finally just chucked it and used the prybar-only method. Super easy once you know how. The key is keeping the rear top nut in place, with about 1/3 of the thread left.
After last night, I'm convinced a spring compressor is completely unnecessary.
The extra bulk of it only made it harder for me to maneuver the strut assembly.
Since the shock is still attached at the top (loosely), it never really endangers your CV boot as long as you don't allow the lower mount to slide inward toward the half-shaft. Just anchor it, use the prybar to release the bottom end, shift it toward the rear so it's completely out of the lower mount, and unfasten the remaining top nut. Couldn't be simpler (but be watchful of your brake lines when removing).
I used this exact thread a few months back when I did my install. I used spring compressors from autozone and also the wood block trick. I forget which was harder, the front or the rear, but I remember it being a pain because my wood block wouldn't stay on my brake disk. I might have even used a floor jack to compress my shock.
I really forget, but just remember to tape the sides of your wheel well with painters tape. I almost scratched mine a few times.
Stephen
I really forget, but just remember to tape the sides of your wheel well with painters tape. I almost scratched mine a few times.
Stephen
ya if you only use one, the spring compressor bolt gets stock on the control arm.
this is why i use two so i can get to the spring at an angle.
i usually have a hard time with the front ones than the back ones... the backs come out really easy with the spring compressors but the fronts are hell, i also gota remove more stuff in the front too.... i only remove 2 bolts on the back.
i usaully take all the nuts off first and just use a pry bar to pop out the struct from the mount. this works for me since i dont have to rise and lower the lift.
havig the nut on there is im sure easier since you have the bolt to hold the struct in place while you sit on the 2x4 :smile:
defnitly will try the 2x4 next time!
I went to the Bilstein website and the shocks they say they have available are only heavy duty for the NSX. Do I need to order them from some place other than their website? Thanks
Lots of places to order them from, but only one kind of Bilstein for the NSX. HOWEVER, I think you can have Bilstein cut a third perch groove (BETWEEN the existing two) if you so desire (not sure if they still do this or what exactly the point is). Also, I think some folks lately are having Bilstein do a slight valving adustment. Sorry reply is not more informative, but bottom line is I think their is only one shock but couple of mods to shock available.
Bill
your method is awesome.
i actually spent a couple of hours following the manual. after i scratched the bottom of the upper mounting area, i thought i'd check here, and sure enough - there's a solution.
this site is the best :smile:
i got both of the rear shocks out, but haven't had a chance to work on the front ones yet. hopefully they will come out the same way.
my only question, though, is:
how hard will it be to put the new suspension in??? i just bought the nsx-r coilovers, and i don't wanna scratch or damage them.
is it easier going in?
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No argument there. Anything that's ever broken on an NSX has some kind of a solution here. Great site.
The fronts are actually easier IMO, mainly because you have more room, and you don't have to worry about damaging your CV boots. As with the rears, just keep one top nut loosely fastened and pry the control arm downward until you can pop the lower shock mount inward and then out. (I used a rubber mallet to coax it along). Once it's sitting off to the side, you can simply unbolt the remaining top nut and remove. I was able to do one front corner without even using a prybar. I just pushed down on the hub with one hand and gave the strut a few pops with the rubber mallet. Out it came.
Depends a lot on the length of your coilovers. My Tein's are fairly short compared to the stock suspension, so the install was 100x easier than the removal was. Use a floor jack to jack up the control arms to the proper position for re-inserting the bolt, and away you go.
i noticed, with the front dampers, that you need to remove pretty much everything else in the area.... nice of the manual to mention that 
i got one side out, but is there an easier way to get the brake hose mount out of the way? i ended up unbolting it, and hitting it with a hammer to shift it just enough to get out the damper. (that thing is on there, it barely moved)
any better methods?
also, i didn't have a 2x4, so i was using my pry bar.... and it's not long enough to sit on. i'm not the strongest person, and i managed to hold it down with one arm and get the damper out with the other (for both rear dampers and one front damper so far). so, for those wondering, it's doable. :smile:
thanks again for all the help
i got one side out, but is there an easier way to get the brake hose mount out of the way? i ended up unbolting it, and hitting it with a hammer to shift it just enough to get out the damper. (that thing is on there, it barely moved)
any better methods?
also, i didn't have a 2x4, so i was using my pry bar.... and it's not long enough to sit on. i'm not the strongest person, and i managed to hold it down with one arm and get the damper out with the other (for both rear dampers and one front damper so far). so, for those wondering, it's doable. :smile:
thanks again for all the help
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Short of removing it altogether and bleeding your hydraulics, I don't think so. I just removed the clamp which allowed it to wiggle around. That seemed to provide enough clearance.
just did the 2x4 tonight.
wow.
whoever was the genious that came up with this, thank you. :smile:
wow.
whoever was the genious that came up with this, thank you. :smile:
Macready and I removed all 4 corners on his car this weekend
and this is what we found...
For the front
- removed 3 - 14mm nuts from top of strut tower
- removed 1 - 17mm nut and bolt at the bottom of the strut that hold the strut to control arm
- 12mm bolt that holds the brake line to strut
- loosened the 12mm nut and bolt that held the brake line bracket and moved it up
- remove the ABS line bolts (6 -10mm bolts) that hold the line because we found the ABS line got really tight when we pryed down on the rotor. So we gave it some slack to avoid damage.
- remove the 2 - 12mm bolts holding the sway bar to the frame (not sure if this was necessary but removed them anyways)
- used a spring compresser
Pryed down on the rotor while prying up on strut. We sucessfully were able to move the strut over and pull it out quite easily.
Found 2 person made the job easier.
First side about 1hr (didnt have spring compressor, struggled with it. but once we did.. Bam came out in minutes)
second side about 25min
For the rears
- removed the rear window garnish
- removed the 17mm nut for the sway bar link and pushed the sway bar link bolt out.
- remove the 3 - 14mm nut at the top of the strut tower
- remove the 2 - 12mm bolts that connect the sway bar to the frame (found this to allow us to pry the rotor down futher giving more clearance for strut removal)
- pryed down on the rotor and the strut came out quite easily.
rears and can be easily performed with 1 person and fast. first 1 took about 25 minute. second one in about 10min.
did not have fat man (4th tool) or 6 foot 2x4..only had a 3 foot pry bar and did not need a spring compression on the rears
Sidenote - I found that I was able to work faster getting the reats out while Macready was out getting the spring compressor for the fronts
and this is what we found...
For the front
- removed 3 - 14mm nuts from top of strut tower
- removed 1 - 17mm nut and bolt at the bottom of the strut that hold the strut to control arm
- 12mm bolt that holds the brake line to strut
- loosened the 12mm nut and bolt that held the brake line bracket and moved it up
- remove the ABS line bolts (6 -10mm bolts) that hold the line because we found the ABS line got really tight when we pryed down on the rotor. So we gave it some slack to avoid damage.
- remove the 2 - 12mm bolts holding the sway bar to the frame (not sure if this was necessary but removed them anyways)
- used a spring compresser
Pryed down on the rotor while prying up on strut. We sucessfully were able to move the strut over and pull it out quite easily.
Found 2 person made the job easier.
First side about 1hr (didnt have spring compressor, struggled with it. but once we did.. Bam came out in minutes)
second side about 25min
For the rears
- removed the rear window garnish
- removed the 17mm nut for the sway bar link and pushed the sway bar link bolt out.
- remove the 3 - 14mm nut at the top of the strut tower
- remove the 2 - 12mm bolts that connect the sway bar to the frame (found this to allow us to pry the rotor down futher giving more clearance for strut removal)
- pryed down on the rotor and the strut came out quite easily.
rears and can be easily performed with 1 person and fast. first 1 took about 25 minute. second one in about 10min.
did not have fat man (4th tool) or 6 foot 2x4..only had a 3 foot pry bar and did not need a spring compression on the rears
Sidenote - I found that I was able to work faster getting the reats out while Macready was out getting the spring compressor for the fronts
I second this approach... and I usually do everything myself... I just was too eager to get them on and rolling this spring!
I tried the 2x4 method today and it worked great. The fronts where a bit tougher to remove, I just took off the speed sensor cable ( unbolted it) both little pieces and sprayed some WD-40 on the bottom bolt thru. Then pressed down on the brake rotor and pulled the shock towards me and to the side and it popped out. The rears came out very fast using the 2x4 method. I didn't have a spring compressor so I ended up using a ratcheting strap to help with the front spring removal. I hooked one of the hooks then brought the strap down and around the bottom bolt location and back up to the other side of the spring with the other hook, ratcheted the strap to pull the spring down a little, mainly to prevent any parts from flying across the garage. It worked great like a spring compressor. The rear springs didn't need any spring compressor action. I want to thank XperiMental for his procedure. It really helped me out today. Just getting ready for NSXPO in a few weeks. Oh I almost forgot, I installed some Swift springs and after driving around for about 45 min on them today hitting some twistes and highways they feel pretty good, maybe even better than the stock springs. I will have to more research and get back to you:biggrin:
just did this install today here's a pic of the 2 abs bolts that need to be to removed to make it a little bit easier.
I just did this install using Bilsteins (upper perch) and Dali springs and wanted to add my info for anyone else who might need it.
I should point out I have done one other spring/strut install (mr2) before so I am not an incredibly accomplished mechanic and I was able to get everything swapped out on the NSX in about 5 hours working at a very slow and steady pace using only hand tools :redface:
A huge thank you to everyone in this and all DIY threads as I use your advice all the time but never get to say thanks as its always old posts :smile:
Fronts:
- Put car on jack stands
- Remove wheel
- Remove the bolt for the break line on the side of the strut
- Remove the 4 bolts for the ABS line to give additional wiggle room to pull out the stut
- Compress spring with spring compressors
- Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the suspension
- Remove 2 of the 3 nuts under the hood holding the strut to the chassis, loosen the third bolt to where only a few threads are holding on (I choose the rear facing bolt to leave on as I think it gives a little more wiggle room)
- Use the 2x4 method above to push down on the brake rotor and pull the bottom of the strut assembly out of its place and to the side (make sure its not pushing on the ABS or break line!)
- While holding the strut, remove the last of the 3 nuts holding the strut to the chassis
- Use your ninja skills (and possibly some pressure from the 2x4 method) to twist and angle the strut assembly in a way that you can remove it from the car
Breaking down the strut assemblies and adding springs / struts:
- Carefully (compressed springs can hurt you!) lay the strut assembly on the ground
- Keep the spring compressors on and clamped down to take the tension off of the top of the strut assembly
- Place an allen key in the top of the strut shaft to keep it from turning
- Using a 14mm (I think) wrench hold the allen key steady and remove the nut on the top of the strut assembly
- Now is the time to pay attention to how everything goes together and what order it goes in :biggrin:
- Disassemble the strut assembly and lay out all the pieces
- Once OEM springs are removed, decompress them (carefully!)
- Open new Bilstein box, remove the parts
- Make sure the snap ring is installed on the upper perch and put on the spring perch like this picture
- Install bump stops, or if they are already on the strut leave them there
- Place large concave washer on top of the bump stops
- Place blue shield cover on top, zip tie at the bottom
- Place OEM dust cover washer on top of blue rubber dust shield
- Place new spring on Bilstein strut perch, making sure the spring lines up with the groove on the spring perch
- Place OEM strut assembly cap with all OEM rubber pieces still installed on top of your new spring. Make sure to line up the spring with the rubber bumper in the strut assembly cap!
- Optional step: I had to compress the new springs a little bit to get enough thread through the top on the fronts
- Place the OEM washer on top of the strut cap and hand tighten the nut on top to hold everything together
- Set the new strut assembly down and and remove any spring compressors (optional)
- Using an allen key to hold the strut shaft still tighten the nut on top of the strut assembly until tight and the spring is tense and not able to move around
- Install new strut assembly in the opposite order you removed it :wink:
Tip of the day: One of the allen key holes for the stock struts was stripped to where I couldn't remove the nut. After a few choice words and some google searches I went and bought a pair of vice grips, cut the dust shield, clamped down hard with the vice grips on the strut shaft and was able to remove the nut. This is a great option but only do it if you are replacing your OEM struts!
Rears:
I saved these for last after everything I read here, but on my car using the 2x4 method they were the easiest!
- Open the trunk and engine lid and remove the black plastic air vent behind the engine lid
- Put car on jack stands
- Remove wheel
- Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the suspension (connected to sway bar)
- Remove 2 of the 3 nuts under the hood holding the strut to the chassis, loosen the third bolt to where only a few threads are holding on (I choose the rear facing bolt to leave on as I think it gives a little more wiggle room)
- Use 2x4 method above to push down on the brake rotor and pull the bottom of the strut assembly out of its place and to the side
- While holding the strut, remove the last of the 3 nuts holding the strut to the chassis
- Use the 2x4 method (sit on it) and angle the strut assembly in a way that you can remove it from the car
- Install new strut assembly in the opposite order you removed it
After everything was back together (except the rear plastic vent piece) I drove the car around the block to let everything settle and re-torqued all the nuts on top of the struts after they had the weight of the car on them.
It is amazing how much better my car feels after getting rid of the 20 year old struts :biggrin: No clunks as others have reported and the ride is great!
I should point out I have done one other spring/strut install (mr2) before so I am not an incredibly accomplished mechanic and I was able to get everything swapped out on the NSX in about 5 hours working at a very slow and steady pace using only hand tools :redface:
A huge thank you to everyone in this and all DIY threads as I use your advice all the time but never get to say thanks as its always old posts :smile:
Fronts:
- Put car on jack stands
- Remove wheel
- Remove the bolt for the break line on the side of the strut
- Remove the 4 bolts for the ABS line to give additional wiggle room to pull out the stut
- Compress spring with spring compressors
- Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the suspension
- Remove 2 of the 3 nuts under the hood holding the strut to the chassis, loosen the third bolt to where only a few threads are holding on (I choose the rear facing bolt to leave on as I think it gives a little more wiggle room)
- Use the 2x4 method above to push down on the brake rotor and pull the bottom of the strut assembly out of its place and to the side (make sure its not pushing on the ABS or break line!)
- While holding the strut, remove the last of the 3 nuts holding the strut to the chassis
- Use your ninja skills (and possibly some pressure from the 2x4 method) to twist and angle the strut assembly in a way that you can remove it from the car
Breaking down the strut assemblies and adding springs / struts:
- Carefully (compressed springs can hurt you!) lay the strut assembly on the ground
- Keep the spring compressors on and clamped down to take the tension off of the top of the strut assembly
- Place an allen key in the top of the strut shaft to keep it from turning
- Using a 14mm (I think) wrench hold the allen key steady and remove the nut on the top of the strut assembly
- Now is the time to pay attention to how everything goes together and what order it goes in :biggrin:
- Disassemble the strut assembly and lay out all the pieces
- Once OEM springs are removed, decompress them (carefully!)
- Open new Bilstein box, remove the parts
- Make sure the snap ring is installed on the upper perch and put on the spring perch like this picture
- Install bump stops, or if they are already on the strut leave them there
- Place large concave washer on top of the bump stops
- Place blue shield cover on top, zip tie at the bottom
- Place OEM dust cover washer on top of blue rubber dust shield
- Place new spring on Bilstein strut perch, making sure the spring lines up with the groove on the spring perch
- Place OEM strut assembly cap with all OEM rubber pieces still installed on top of your new spring. Make sure to line up the spring with the rubber bumper in the strut assembly cap!
- Optional step: I had to compress the new springs a little bit to get enough thread through the top on the fronts
- Place the OEM washer on top of the strut cap and hand tighten the nut on top to hold everything together
- Set the new strut assembly down and and remove any spring compressors (optional)
- Using an allen key to hold the strut shaft still tighten the nut on top of the strut assembly until tight and the spring is tense and not able to move around
- Install new strut assembly in the opposite order you removed it :wink:
Tip of the day: One of the allen key holes for the stock struts was stripped to where I couldn't remove the nut. After a few choice words and some google searches I went and bought a pair of vice grips, cut the dust shield, clamped down hard with the vice grips on the strut shaft and was able to remove the nut. This is a great option but only do it if you are replacing your OEM struts!
Rears:
I saved these for last after everything I read here, but on my car using the 2x4 method they were the easiest!
- Open the trunk and engine lid and remove the black plastic air vent behind the engine lid
- Put car on jack stands
- Remove wheel
- Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the suspension (connected to sway bar)
- Remove 2 of the 3 nuts under the hood holding the strut to the chassis, loosen the third bolt to where only a few threads are holding on (I choose the rear facing bolt to leave on as I think it gives a little more wiggle room)
- Use 2x4 method above to push down on the brake rotor and pull the bottom of the strut assembly out of its place and to the side
- While holding the strut, remove the last of the 3 nuts holding the strut to the chassis
- Use the 2x4 method (sit on it) and angle the strut assembly in a way that you can remove it from the car
- Install new strut assembly in the opposite order you removed it
After everything was back together (except the rear plastic vent piece) I drove the car around the block to let everything settle and re-torqued all the nuts on top of the struts after they had the weight of the car on them.
It is amazing how much better my car feels after getting rid of the 20 year old struts :biggrin: No clunks as others have reported and the ride is great!
Cool post. I don't know if you forgot but you can disconnect the swaybar endlink to make the pressing down with the 2x4 step easier.
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