AEM Engine Management System (Q & A)

Joined
20 October 2003
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10
Location
Portland, OR
For those of you who have any questions related to the AEM EMS I am offering our tuner Sean McElderry up for assistance to this forum. He is arguably the best AEM tuner in the world and can greatly assist you with any problems you might have.

We work in conjunction with AEM to promote their products and have installed AEM EMs's in our customers' Supra's / Civics / Eclipses / MR2's / S2000's / 3000GTs and RX7's for the past 2 years.

For those that are considering getting an AEM EMS for your NSX, let me list off some of the key selling points....

1) Auto-mapping... With this, you program in the target A:F based on engine rpm and load. We will typically program in around 11.5:1 under WOT situations, 14:1 on idle and 16:1 to 17:1 on cruise for economy reasons. Then you drive around and the cells in fuel map table will slowly change as you pass through them a few times until they get to the desired A:F ratio. We don't usually use this feature because it doesn't work as flawlessly as some of the other standalones out there, but it does work quite a bit better than it used to. I also don't like to do it because I don't like to take the chance of the computer doing something I don't want it to.

2) O2 Feedback.... We first tune the car with O2 feedback turned off. We do this by adjusting the values in the fuel map. We also use boost compensation (which I'll explain later) which makes this much easier. Once we're pretty close, we'll program the O2 feedback table with the target A:F ratios. Now when you're driving around, the computer is always using your fuel map but at the same it is doing on the fly adjustments to the fuel map based on your feedback settings towards your goal.

3) Boost Fuel Compensation.... We use boost compensation (especially on turbo'd and supercharged cars) to add or subtract from our fuel map. When using boost compensation, the fuel map ends up looking exactly like a torque curve with the peak fuel setting corresponding to the peak torque value. Then much of the fuel map has the same values all the way up and down (on the load axis). This makes it really easy to tune and allows for nearly perfect A:F ratios in all gears.

4) Knock and Timing.... Another thing the AEM does that is fantastic is it will allow you to program your own knock noise table based on engine rpm. There are a lot of things that make vibrations that the computer picks up as knock. Some might be real detonation, but a lot of the noise is simply shifting gears, a turbo wastegate opening, etc. etc. What we'll typically do is run some good gas like C-16 race fuel and leave the timing somewhat conservative. We'll then datalog the knock sensors. Once we have the raw knock values for the car, we'll modify the knock noise table to be right above these values. This tells the computer if you ever see a knock sensor voltage above this amount then it's probably detonation. Now we can program what to do if indeed we do see knock. #1 we pull out timing. You can program how much timing to pull out and how long and how fast to put it back in. You can also program a certain percentage of fuel to inject. Detonation can often be eliminated by injecting extra fuel. Once these are set, we can start advancing the timing to increase power until we do see some knock. then we can back it off a bit.

5) 2-step.... The AEM also has a built in 2-step where you can program it to not only pull spark, but pull timing as well. This 2-step can greatly increase your 60 fts. With boosted cars we've seen as much as 22psi built on the line.

6) Injector Duty Cycle.... One thing that we take very seriously is never running lean under WOT conditions. The AEM shows your injector duty cycle all the time. It allows you to make cylinder to cylinder fuel trim adjustments as well as overall fuel adjustments. We datalog the injector duty cycle and when you get past 80% injector duty cycle we typically recommend running larger injectors. On my personal car we went from 550cc injectors to 720cc to 850cc to 1000cc and we ended up hitting 85% injector duty cycle at 70psi of fuel pressure so now I have 1200cc injectors in it.

7) Boost Control.... If you are running turbos you'll never need another boost controller. You simply program in the w/g duty table and turn w/g feedback on and it will allow you to control boost perfectly through the AEM. You can also advance timing quite a bit in the turbo spool up area to reduce turbo lag.

8) Traction Control.... The newest version of the software now has traction control. It will pull out spark when traction is lost to maintain traction. If you do have turbos you can use speed based boost control to also prevent wheel spin.

Sean will be following this thread and will answer any questions that you may have with your EMS or any tuning related questions.

Take care,
Chris.
 
HorsepowerFreak said:
On my personal car we went from 550cc injectors to 720cc to 850cc to 1000cc and we ended up hitting 85% injector duty cycle at 70psi of fuel pressure so now I have 1200cc injectors in it.
And your personal car is?
Look forward to your contributions!
 
Horsepower Freaks-

Wold you care to give your personal opinions on the new AEM as compared to the new MOTEC system? Pros and cons as related to eachother in turbo applications.

Thanks.
 
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2) O2 Feedback.... We first tune the car with O2 feedback turned off. We do this by adjusting the values in the fuel map. We also use boost compensation (which I'll explain later) which makes this much easier. Once we're pretty close, we'll program the O2 feedback table with the target A:F ratios. Now when you're driving around, the computer is always using your fuel map but at the same it is doing on the fly adjustments to the fuel map based on your feedback settings towards your goal.

Can you explain how you make a map?
And what are the map values you are adjusting to alter the fuel curve?
Examples would be injector dwell time, pressure sensor, throttle position sensor, etc.
 
My personal car is a 95 Supra. We're stuffing it with a built shortblock, T88H, Veilside intake, 1200cc injectors, etc. Here it is about ready to get the motor installed.

HPFSupraMinusMotor.jpg


Here's a pic of part of our shop. We do a lot of tuning here, but most of our AEM tuning is done on the street. We do before and after baselines on the dyno.

Dynojet.jpg


HPFTFShop.jpg


Take care,
Chris.
 
Chris-

It's awesome to see you here on the board!

Chris and Sean both get two thumbs up from me and Reid (my tech), Sean from Torque Freaks did all the EMS tuning for Reid's fully built, turbocharged H22 Civic. The car runs absolutely perfect!:D Your shop is looking great!

Nick
Option R
 
When comparing the AEM to Motec, you have to first realize that they are very similar in capabilities to one another. That being said, the AEM is roughly 6 times cheaper, once all Motec options are purchased. The AEM has infinitely superior software and has a more helpful userbase as well. The Motec, on the other hand, has some pretty cool features like telemetry and the digital dash.

In my opinion, the AEM is a superior unit and I firmly believe that they will monopolize the standalone ECU market in short time.

Specifically for boosted apps, either ECU is a good choice. The AEM, for example, has 4 different types of boost control - vehicle speed based boost control, TPS based boost control, switch based boost control, and straight up duty cycle boost control. Quite advanced :)

But in all honesty, you're going to get a very nice product, whichever route you decide to take. They are both excellent choices.

"Can you explain how you make a map?
And what are the map values you are adjusting to alter the fuel curve?
Examples would be injector dwell time, pressure sensor, throttle position sensor, etc."

Explaining how to make a map would take quite a while since there are literally thousands of options in the AEM. A general way of putting it would be to modify each option and table until they all work together perfectly for drivability and power for a given vehicle. Modifying one table or option inevitably changes how others will work so you have to be very careful with what you do.

Altering the fuel curve can be as simple or as complicated as you want or need it to be. With the AEM, you can alter the base fuel map, the VTEC fuel modifiers, the nitrous fuel map, individual cylinder trims, the boost compensation fuel table, the AIT fuel compensation, etc, etc. There is the ability to add fuel when EGTs get too hot. You can add/subtract fuel based on intake air temp, coolant temp, knock feedback, O2 feedback, etc. You also have complete control over your battery offset table for your primary and optionally your secondary injectors. This gives you the ability to lengthen the injector pulse when your battery voltage falls sicne your injector will take longer to open when the voltage is decreased.

As you mentioned, you can control fuel via a MAF sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, etc. It's all programmable.

I hope that helps. If you have any other questions, feel free to email me or call me at 503-256-6336. Take care!
 
First of all, Welcome, and thank you for offering your time and expertise!

Wow, where to start? I read your initial posts with great interest and am tempted to bombard you with questions, but I’ll start with a couple comments and basic questions.

In my limited experience with the AEM I found auto-mapping to be far less useful than I had hoped. Under anything approaching WOT, even in higher gears (where the speeds are highly illegal), it would move through the cells too rapidly to get decent readings. I tinkered with the various parameters but the map was always useless. I would expect it to be somewhat better for part throttle tuning and on a dyno where top gear can be used. Is this consistent with your experience? Similarly and for the same reasons, I would not consider using O2 feedback at high loads and RPM where even with tightly controlled limits on how much trim it can apply, it seems to do more harm than good. (BTW, I use the Motec PLM wideband)

The boost fuel compensation is the next thing on my list to learn, in part because as I understand it that will also allow effectively better/finer cell to cell resolution in the map. Is that true? When you say “Then much of the fuel map has the same values all the way up and down (on the load axis).“ I hope that you refer only the “raw” values and not the pulse width and duty cycle versions, which would then be meaningless. Yes?

Speaking of fuel map resolution, the Rescale function seems to work but the Optimize function always trashed the fuel map. Have you had any success with it?
 
No problem about sharing our expertise with you guys. Feel free to ask questions anytime. Now...to answer yours directly:

I never, ever, ever use automapping. Generating a fuel map is far easier without using it. On each car I do, I start from scratch with the fuel map, completely boost corrected, and go from there.

O2FB is something I enable on every one of the cars we do. Using it during boost is very tricky and I don't recommend it. That being said, if tuned properly, it can be useful even during WOT situations.

You will definitely want to use boost correct. It's the only way to tune a car effectively, in my opinion. The resolution is greatly increased everywhere in the map. Also, the raw values, the pulse width values, and the duty cycle values are the same in a column for a given AFR. Boost correct takes care of the rest. You will love it :)

The optimize function is quite complicated and takes a pretty deep understanding of the software to really use effectively. You simply do not need it if you're using boost correct. But if you're not, then you can modify your LD0MPC option to gain more resolution in the low load areas. This is what Optimize does.





For those with less experience with the AEM, I thought I'd mention a couple nice features. You can enable an AFR warning light to illuminate if your car goes too lean under WOT. You can also have lights illuminate or buzzers go off under any set of programmable conditions such as coolant too hot, overboost, overrev (ie. shift light), etc.
 
We have not tuned an NSX as of yet mainly because there are very few modified NSXs in our area. The principles are the same from car to car and we definitely look forward to getting some great numbers out of your cars.

The hard part about tuning is really drivability; this is where we spend most of our time. If your car runs 10s in the 1/4 mile but stalls periodically in the middle of an intersection, you're going to get frustrated very quickly :)

90% of the tuning time SHOULD be spent on drivability. The remaining 10% is more than enough to extract the maximum safe amount of power out of a car for a given fuel.

Take care!
 
Sean McElderry said:
We have not tuned an NSX as of yet mainly because there are very few modified NSXs in our area. The principles are the same from car to car...
Sean, welcome! I really appreciate you stopping in and offering your expertise. In order to get a glear picture, exactly why are you here? In other words, what are you looking to gain from us? Surely you didn't stop because you have too much free time on your hands. ;) Are you looking to work with some of the current boosted cars out there? Work with current FI vendors who are not as familiar with the AEM? Other?

Not picking on you. Just want to know what you see as your goal within the NSX community. Thanks in advance for future contributions.
 
I'll reply to this, since I asked Sean to post here. In the past, when AEM would release a new EMS for a particular vehicle, a few people would be very dissatisfied with their experience because #1) the base-maps from AEM will not make your car run perfectly in all situations, #2) there is a lot to learn and it was too difficult for them and #3) they took it to someone for tuning and ultimately had a disaster occur.

My goal is to have everyone with the AEM be very satisfied with how their vehicle runs. As we sell a couple EMS's every day and tune EMS's around the world, I'm offering Sean's support for them as well as people who purchased theirs from elsewhere. We'll also respond to questions from people who are simply curious about how it works and some of its capabilities.

He's here for you for free, so feel free to ask him any question relating to the EMS.

Take care,
Chris.
 
Thanks Chris! It is a rare treat to encounter a business person with the vision to recognize that they stand to gain far more than they give up by offering help and information even to people who will likely never be a paying customer. As you obviously believe, widespread use and satisfaction with a product that you sell will inevitably improve your own business even if only indirectly. The Internet, and especially forums such as this, allow both good news and bad to spread rapidly and can have an impact on sales of products and services literally overnight.

Even all that said, you have gone yet an extra step by approaching us with an offer of assistance, and I applaud you for it.

(Not that we don’t have other generous vendors participating here. Mark Basch for example has always taken calls and answered question from people with no intention of sending their car to him, and in fact all of our regular vendors are very helpful. Hope that covers me :))
 
The AEMs currently work for the 91-94 NSXs. However, I have a strong suspicion that a quick rewire would allow us to use the box on the newer models. It just wouldn't be plug and play. The ECU pinouts are different for OBD-I vs. OBD-II, so as long as we can make the OBD-II cars look like OBD-I cars to the EMS, we could tune them just the same.

We did a MKIII Supra here in the shop using a Honda Civic EMS box. The wiring was simply redone to make the car look like a Civic to the EMS.

On a separate note, we just did a turbo S2K today. At 7psi of boost the car made 300rwhp on pump gas. What a blast to drive on the street!
 
Sean McElderry said:
The AEMs currently work for the 91-94 NSXs. However, I have a strong suspicion that a quick rewire would allow us to use the box on the newer models. It just wouldn't be plug and play. The ECU pinouts are different for OBD-I vs. OBD-II, so as long as we can make the OBD-II cars look like OBD-I cars to the EMS, we could tune them just the same.

We did a MKIII Supra here in the shop using a Honda Civic EMS box. The wiring was simply redone to make the car look like a Civic to the EMS.

On a separate note, we just did a turbo S2K today. At 7psi of boost the car made 300rwhp on pump gas. What a blast to drive on the street!

The newer NSX's also have throttle by wire, does the AEM have the capability to handle this? I am strongly interested in purchasing something to handle my Comptech 9 PSI supercharger and would be willing to have the car rewired to allow the install of the AEM.
 
I have order from Chris (horsepowerfreak) in the past. With my limit experience with his company, nothing but praise.

Very knowledgeable, and competitively price on their products.
Danny Lai
 
Sean McElderry said:
The AEMs currently work for the 91-94 NSXs. However, I have a strong suspicion that a quick rewire would allow us to use the box on the newer models. It just wouldn't be plug and play. The ECU pinouts are different for OBD-I vs. OBD-II, so as long as we can make the OBD-II cars look like OBD-I cars to the EMS, we could tune them just the same.

We did a MKIII Supra here in the shop using a Honda Civic EMS box. The wiring was simply redone to make the car look like a Civic to the EMS.

On a separate note, we just did a turbo S2K today. At 7psi of boost the car made 300rwhp on pump gas. What a blast to drive on the street!

I have done the MKIII / Civic EMS box conversion as well...I guarantee the OBDII NSX conversion is not even close to the quick rewire you speak of. Look Here

Heck, the Volvo 850 running a civic box was a piece of cake cake in comparison.

Devin Pearce
Payn Technologies
 
Sean McElderry said:
There is the ability to add fuel when EGTs get too hot.

Sean,

I wish you were closer… tuning a road-race car requires experience and patience that many tuners don’t have. Most of the time people are looking for max HP, or single run results- primarily for drag racing. Similar to drivability, my car needs to be crisp throughout the rpm range over an extended period of time. (Without burning down)

After your initial curves, do you feel comfortable “A$$ dynoing”?

I’m not sure if you were just using EGT’s as an example of capability… do you recommend them? If so, on every cylinder?

Also, do you recommend taking the AEM training?

Thanks

Rob
 
Rob, thanks for writing. I fly once or twice a week to various parts of the world to tune cars. I'm sure I could make a stop in your town for a day or two to get your car all dialed in. The S2000 I did yesterday is a road race car so a flat torque curve and a linear HP curve was essential. We also set the car up to control boost with throttle position so the car has a very NA feel on the track.

I tune about 50% of my customers' cars on the street with no dyno, so my butt dyno is quite calibrated :) EGTs are a good tuning tool, but they're not the complete package. AFRs are a much better tool and when coupled with EGTs and knock sensing, you can get a car dialed in VERY well.

The AEM training is geared towards beginners. If you have experience with the system, the class isn't for you. If you're just starting out, it can give you some good info.

Hope that helps!
 
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