850 rpm Idle ???

[d.n]

Huck here's a thought for you - if you drop it down too low you'll risk lugging the engine in certain situations (off throttle, when the AC comes on, when the radiator fan comes on, headlights turn on, etc). Lugging is not great for the motor. Now for being too high of an rpm, I think driving for 6 hours at freeway speeds hasn't killed a motor yet, so 850 should be okay for a few minutes at stoplights.

Also all of my Hondas have the same idle speed requirements so I guess I'm just used to it. It's not just the NSX. I guess perhaps coming from a V8 background 650 "feels" right? You can also shift those guys under 1500rpm no problem. Doing that on the NSX isn't the greatest thing

 

[Daedalus]

As noted above the idle speed is not adjustable. Sure you can mess with the bypass screw and get it lower but as soon as you change the load on the engine (ac, headlights, rear window defog) the rpm will change. One of the great things with the ECU controling the idle the RPM stays rock solid. I think that is really what is bothering you, you know you should hear a change when you turn somthing on and you don't.

800 +/-50 is the spec for AC and electricals off.

 

[Briank]

800 +/-50 is the spec for AC and electricals off.

OK, yes the ECU does not get it perfectly at 800 RPM, that would be impossible with the way it does the control. Everything has a tolerance. :wink:

 

[Daedalus]

I was responding more to the comment about the idle fluctuating with engine load. It does, but it's not really pertinent to this. My point was that if the OP has an early model that idles @ 850 with AC/electricals off, they should feel free to knock it down 10% or so as it'll still be in spec. Of course I would recommend hooking up a digital tach to do so and not rely on the dash gauge.

 

[Briank]

I was responding more to the comment about the idle fluctuating with engine load. It does, but it's not really pertinent to this. My point was that if the OP has an early model that idles @ 850 with AC/electricals off, they should feel free to knock it down 10% or so as it'll still be in spec. Of course I would recommend hooking up a digital tach to do so and not rely on the dash gauge.

I guess you can turn in the air bypass screw until the EAC/ECU can no longer hold the proper idle but then you can also tear off the throttle body and install a weber side draft carb.

 

[Huck]

That air bypass screw is like "glued in place" so that there is no easy way to turn it. I don't plan on going bonkers with this so I am going to just leave it alone for now. It seems that when I turn on the heater, radio etc. the idle picks up to close to 900rpm. With everything off, it drops down to around 800 rpm. So I guess, it is what it is.
That said, how is the rear speaker powered? Does it get it's juice from the sub-woofer amplifier?

 

[Briank]

That That said, how is the rear speaker powered? Does it get it's juice from the sub-woofer amplifier?

The center speaker gets its amplified signal from the foot well speaker amp.

 

[Onsoku]

For those the have a CTSC, are you using the OEM idle speed, or have you increased it?