1991 NSX Igniton Cylinder Issue.

[Black NSX F1]

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-199...cal-exhaust-heater-fuel--combination-switch-1
8, 9, 10
The $15 key will also do too.
If it works you should cut a second key anyway and can decide then if it has to be the luxury titanium key (which is cool as I have it too ).

I might as well
just get real key after lol thanks

 

[NSX_n00b]

I might as well
just get real key after lol thanks

It's hard to tell in the picture of your key but are there 4 digits engraved on it? If so, that's your key code. If not the "easiest" way to find it is to remove the center tail light. The code will be the last 4 digits on the lock cylinder for the trunk.

You can just buy a $5 Acura blank from eBay and have a locksmith cut it per the key code. Then if the new key works you can order the Monel key from Marc at TheNSXShop for $110 and give him the key code and he'll have it cut and shipped to you.

 

[nis350]

just curious if it is common that the key is worn before the key cylinder?

I just compared my keys. The one that I used all the time is all rounded out like the pic OP posted.

To OP, I think you can even cut the duplicate key at Home Depot.

I've had a similar problem and it was a worn key, not the cylinder.

 

[nis350]

didn't know about the 4 digit code on the key. Is the code only on the primary key? I just checked mine. Only one key has the 4 digit code and the other doesn't.

Do all locksmiths or places that cut keys can cut the spare with the code? Does it cost much more than using a physical key?

It's hard to tell in the picture of your key but are there 4 digits engraved on it? If so, that's your key code. If not the "easiest" way to find it is to remove the center tail light. The code will be the last 4 digits on the lock cylinder for the trunk.

You can just buy a $5 Acura blank from eBay and have a locksmith cut it per the key code. Then if the new key works you can order the Monel key from Marc at TheNSXShop for $110 and give him the key code and he'll have it cut and shipped to you.

 

[NSX_n00b]

didn't know about the 4 digit code on the key. Is the code only on the primary key? I just checked mine. Only one key has the 4 digit code and the other doesn't.

Do all locksmiths or places that cut keys can cut the spare with the code? Does it cost much more than using a physical key?

When I purchased my car I only got 2 keys (1 Monel Key and 1 Black Key) and they both have the number on it. I'm not sure if the 2nd black key or the valet key have the number on them or not. I would call the locksmiths in your area and ask if they can cut the key based on the key code you have to verify. You can also ask them the cost.

A quick eBay search shows you can get a single Honda or Acura key blank for about $2 or a pair for about $10 depending on what style you want. But again that's just a blank regular black key. I'm sure a locksmith wouldn't charge you more than a couple of dollars to cut it, but worth asking when you call to see if they can cut based on the key code. The nearest Honda or Acura dealership definitely can.

If you want the Monel key you can pick up a blank from Science of Speed or eBay for $120-$130 and then good luck finding someone to cut Monel. The dealership will try but probably hasn't cut one in ages and will most likely destroy it and not replace it since you didn't buy it from them. You can call locksmiths and ask if they can cut Monel but again risky. Your best bet for getting a Monel key cut is just ordering it from TheNSXShop with the 4 digit code so it comes pre-cut.

 

[Old Guy]

Interesting observations on key wear and ignition cylinder wear. I have a 2000 so it has an immobilizer; but, other than that I think the key and cylinder mechanism is very similar to the earlier cars. When I purchased the car, it came with two keys. The valet and learning keys were AWOL and I expect that one of the keys, the one with the silver logo, is actually a later duplicate made by a previous owner. I say this because not only is the logo color different; but, the key is much less worn and has the T5 marking typically found on blanks.



The interesting thing is that despite the fact that some of the bittings on the red logo key are completely or close to completely worn off, the key works satisfactorily in all cylinder locations. My car has roughly 73,000 miles on it so it probably qualifies as having moderate usage. The silver key is the one I use regularly. It might be a little smoother operating; but, not obviously so.

When I got the car in 2011, I installed keyless entry so the door cylinders have not been operated in the last 8 years and I expect that the passenger door lock cylinder has probably been operated less than 100 times in the cars life, so it should have almost no wear. Since both keys work just fine in the passenger door it is not like cylinder wear is allowing the use of the worn key. This leaves me wondering if there is a lot of tolerance built into the lock cylinders. If this is the case it would raise the question as to whether the cylinders can be operated with T5 keys with similar; but, not exact bittings. If so, I am happy that I have an immobilizer key because I then have a second authentication that the key is matched to the car.

My observations may be relevant to the OP because my experience with NSX key wear suggests that key wear might not be a cause of his problem. However, my experience is just a single data point and as such is definitely not conclusive.

Despite the missing keys, the previous owners of my car did manage to hang on to the key tag so I did have another spare key cut and cloned with the cut being made from the tag numbers.

 

[Black NSX F1]

Interesting observations on key wear and ignition cylinder wear. I have a 2000 so it has an immobilizer; but, other than that I think the key and cylinder mechanism is very similar to the earlier cars. When I purchased the car, it came with two keys. The valet and learning keys were AWOL and I expect that one of the keys, the one with the silver logo, is actually a later duplicate made by a previous owner. I say this because not only is the logo color different; but, the key is much less worn and has the T5 marking typically found on blanks.

View attachment 159873

The interesting thing is that despite the fact that some of the bittings on the red logo key are completely or close to completely worn off, the key works satisfactorily in all cylinder locations. My car has roughly 73,000 miles on it so it probably qualifies as having moderate usage. The silver key is the one I use regularly. It might be a little smoother operating; but, not obviously so.

When I got the car in 2011, I installed keyless entry so the door cylinders have not been operated in the last 8 years and I expect that the passenger door lock cylinder has probably been operated less than 100 times in the cars life, so it should have almost no wear. Since both keys work just fine in the passenger door it is not like cylinder wear is allowing the use of the worn key. This leaves me wondering if there is a lot of tolerance built into the lock cylinders. If this is the case it would raise the question as to whether the cylinders can be operated with T5 keys with similar; but, not exact bittings. If so, I am happy that I have an immobilizer key because I then have a second authentication that the key is matched to the car.

My observations may be relevant to the OP because my experience with NSX key wear suggests that key wear might not be a cause of his problem. However, my experience is just a single data point and as such is definitely not conclusive.

Despite the missing keys, the previous owners of my car did manage to hang on to the key tag so I did have another spare key cut and cloned with the cut being made from the tag numbers.

Man... my keys are definitely worn!!! So awesome you took a picture for comparison. Keys on order and I will keep you updated.

 

[goldNSX]

[MENTION=26435]Old Guy[/MENTION]: the keys of my (former) car looked about the same but the worn one definitly started to behave fishy while the new key was perfectly fine for several years. 'Fishy' means that you could feel slightly more resistance while turning the key. Wiggling helped a bit. But it would have worked for some time for sure until it let's me stranded out in the desert. Sold the car, so I've no pics of them to compare.
Yes, there will be quite a margin of tolerance but expect the worn key to fail soon in the near future. On the other hand if you imagine that a key should be unique for many millions cars, you can guess that that tolerance is limited.

 

[Black NSX F1]

I’m going to try my local locksmith he will try to decode it he said. Fingers cross!!

 

[goldNSX]

Unfortunately the key did not match and the trunk cylinder is that

The new key to the ignition cylinder or the existing key to the trunk cylinder?

 

[Black NSX F1]

The new key to the ignition cylinder or the existing key to the trunk cylinder?

No one can’t seen to find the code. The picture is the trunk. That’s just a part number. And the last 4 digit does not work as we tried it also. My existing key works, but the new cut that Acura and locksmith has in the data base is completely different. My car technically has a new key with all new key cylinder that work with (driver, pass, trunk, and ignition). So I’m guessing the original owner changed everything out when he replaced his keys. How would I be able to retrieve the damn key code??? There’s no other spots to look? I’m trying next week or maybe this week day to have a locksmith decode it.

 

[NSX_n00b]

No one can’t seen to find the code. The picture is the trunk. That’s just a part number. And the last 4 digit does not work as we tried it also. My existing key works, but the new cut that Acura and locksmith has in the data base is completely different. My car technically has a new key with all new key cylinder that work with (driver, pass, trunk, and ignition). So I’m guessing the original owner changed everything out when he replaced his keys. How would I be able to retrieve the damn key code??? There’s no other spots to look? I’m trying next week or maybe this week day to have a locksmith decode it.

Maybe I'm just struggling to follow all this old key/new key stuff but in an effort to try and make things more clear so we can help further, with the key that you currently use to start the car can you do the following:

Unlock Driver's Side door with key?
Unlock Passenger Side door with key?
Open the trunk with key?

 

[Black NSX F1]

Maybe I'm just struggling to follow all this old key/new key stuff but in an effort to try and make things more clear so we can help further, with the key that you currently use to start the car can you do the following:

Unlock Driver's Side door with key?
Unlock Passenger Side door with key?
Open the trunk with key?

Sorry for the confusion, yes I currently can do all that with existing key.

 

[NSX_n00b]

Sorry for the confusion, yes I currently can do all that with existing key.

Yet when the dealership cuts a key based on the key code found on your trunk cylinder you can no longer do any of those actions?

 

[Black NSX F1]

The dealership code was completely different from that. I only had the dealer recovered my key code through my VIN. I actually have not shown the dealer the trunk code yet. I only showed a locksmith and he said that’s not the code. It’s a P/N. That’s why I’m comfuse.

 

[Black NSX F1]

Yet when the dealership cuts a key based on the key code found on your trunk cylinder you can no longer do any of those actions?

The dealership code was completely different from that. I only had the dealer recovered my key code through my VIN. I actually have not shown the dealer the trunk code yet. I only showed a locksmith and he said that’s not the code. It’s a P/N. That’s why I’m comfuse

 

[goldNSX]

I'm also confused.

You did let the dealer look up the key code by your VIN. He cut a new key? That doesn't work in any of the cylinders?

If 2x YES:
- the key code was not correct
- the former owner messed with the key system (which is quite unlikely but possible). Clear history of the car?

 

[NSX_n00b]

The dealership code was completely different from that. I only had the dealer recovered my key code through my VIN. I actually have not shown the dealer the trunk code yet. I only showed a locksmith and he said that’s not the code. It’s a P/N. That’s why I’m comfuse

Ah OK. That makes sense. The locksmith probably doesn't realize that the last 4 digits are the code. You are probably correct in your conclusion that the dealership having a different code based on your VIN means the previous owner had all the cylinders changed on the car previously. I would tell the dealership that the cylinders on your car have been changed previously and the key code is those last 4 digits you see etched into the trunk cylinder (and I would take that photo down ASAP) and you need a key cut for that code on the trunk cylinder. If the dealership balks then just take the car into them and remove the center taillight and show them. If they still won't cut for that code then order your new keys from TheNSXShop and give Marc the code on the trunk cylinder and he will have them cut prior to shipping them to you.

 

[Black NSX F1]

I'm also confused.

You did let the dealer look up the key code by your VIN. He cut a new key? That doesn't work in any of the cylinders?

If 2x YES:
- the key code was not correct
- the former owner messed with the key system (which is quite unlikely but possible). Clear history of the car?

2x yes ...the cut from the DEALER does not match. I went to a Locksmith after and he confirm it’s completely different also. I did get a car fax history before I bought it and it is clean. This was over 6 years ago. I call Mitch (nsx specialist in the Boston area) he said a locksmith should be able to decode it. But I’m still mad. My question is ... if the previous owner did change the key and locks. How the hell am I be able to retrieve it??

 

[Black NSX F1]

Ah OK. That makes sense. The locksmith probably doesn't realize that the last 4 digits are the code. You are probably correct in your conclusion that the dealership having a different code based on your VIN means the previous owner had all the cylinders changed on the car previously. I would tell the dealership that the cylinders on your car have been changed previously and the key code is those last 4 digits you see etched into the trunk cylinder (and I would take that photo down ASAP) and you need a key cut for that code on the trunk cylinder. If the dealership balks then just take the car into them and remove the center taillight and show them. If they still won't cut for that code then order your new keys from TheNSXShop and give Marc the code on the trunk cylinder and he will have them cut prior to shipping them to you.

The last 4 digit is not it. That was tried also.

 

[NSX_n00b]

The last 4 digit is not it. That was tried also.

So you had the dealership or the locksmith cut a key based on the last 4 digits and that key didn't work?

 

[goldNSX]

2x yes ...the cut from the DEALER does not match.

Did you compare the shape of the old versus the new key?

 

[Honcho]

What a mystery. I wonder if your locksmith did not interpret the 4-digit code correctly, as that method is what Honda used to determine the correct key pattern for the NSX. I'm not sure if they released the code outside the company. Factory-issued keys (at least in 1991) had the 4-digit code stamped into the key itself. Replacement keys did not. As [MENTION=34522]NSX_n00b[/MENTION] said, that code is also stamped on the cylinders of the trunk lock and both door locks. Factory monel keys are not supposed to be "cut" by a key cutting wheel. Instead, they are punched out using a special machine to ensure a perfect pattern. Last I heard, only a few dealers in the US still have these machines but, as others have posted, Honda will still perform this service in Japan. Your Acura dealer probably doesn't have the key punching machine and it sounds like this locksmith also is struggling. It might be worth checking around to see who still has the punching machine and have them punch a cheap $15 key using the 4-digit code from your trunk cylinder. IIRC, Ray Laks Acura in Buffalo had a NSX key punching machine back in 2007. Tim Poliniak at Acura of Peroria might be able to steer you to a dealer who still does this. Based on the posts, it looks like your previous owner may have swapped the lock cylinders, so the only way to be sure about the key is to have it punched out on a genuine NSX key punching machine using the code that is actually on the lock cylinder and not what is associated with the VIN. I hope you get this sorted out!

 

[Old Guy]

. My question is ... if the previous owner did change the key and locks. How the hell am I be able to retrieve it??

Perhaps you are not able to retrieve it. I don't know whether you can do this on the NSX; but, on a lot of cars you don't have to change the complete lock mechanism. A locksmith can change the pins within the lock cylinders which would then equate to a new key code. I had this done to a car - about 35 years ago! Read hear for details

https://lockguyz.com/articles/car-keys/rekey-car-locks/

If the NSX cylinders can be rekeyed in this way then a previous owner of your car might have had everything rekeyed and only they or the locksmith who did might know the new code. As noted in the link, if they took the cheapo route to the rekey you are in a total black hole.

The more expensive solution to this is to purchase a new ignition lock and new door and trunk locks and have the door / trunk locks rekeyed to the ignition lock or vice versa (whichever is easier) by a locksmith. You now have all new cylinders (a good thing) and a set of matching keys. Down time is shorter because you have replacement locks on hand to do a lock swap. The less expensive solution is to remove all the lock cylinders and take them to a locksmith and have them all rekeyed to a new key pattern. The down side is that you still have old lock cylinders all around and the car will be out of service longer as the cylinders make the round trip to the locksmith. Before you consider this, talk to the dealer or a locksmith to make sure that the NSX lock cylinders can actually be re keyed. Skilled locksmiths are becoming a rare commodity. I recently took an ignition lock cylinder from an older car into a locksmith that I had previously used because I wanted it rekeyed. The old school guys no longer worked at the shop and the new school guys looked at the lock cylinder and did the 'search me'.

All of this is a hassle. Since your key still works in the door and trunk locks, get a new matching key cut and see if it will operate the doors. If it does, consider getting a keyless push to start system which will eliminate the need for the ignition lock cylinder. These system also come with lock / unlock functions so as long as you don't kill your battery you will never need to use a key again. You keep your fresh cut key as a back-up to unlock your door in case the push to start system dies or the battery dies. The cost of a push to start system will not be cheap; but, neither will the cost of new door and ignition locks with labour associated with replacing the cylinders. I am not a fan of non OEM electronics; however, in this case you are kind of between a rock and ahard spot.

 

[Old Guy]

What a mystery. I wonder if your locksmith did not interpret the 4-digit code correctly, as that method is what Honda used to determine the correct key pattern for the NSX. I'm not sure if they released the code outside the company. Factory-issued keys (at least in 1991) had the 4-digit code stamped into the key itself. Replacement keys did not. As @NSX_n00b said, that code is also stamped on the cylinders of the trunk lock and both door locks. Factory monel keys are not supposed to be "cut" by a key cutting wheel. Instead, they are punched out using a special machine to ensure a perfect pattern. Last I heard, only a few dealers in the US still have these machines but, as others have posted, Honda will still perform this service in Japan. Your Acura dealer probably doesn't have the key punching machine and it sounds like this locksmith also is struggling. It might be worth checking around to see who still has the punching machine and have them punch a cheap $15 key using the 4-digit code from your trunk cylinder. IIRC, Ray Laks Acura in Buffalo had a NSX key punching machine back in 2007. Tim Poliniak at Acura of Peroria might be able to steer you to a dealer who still does this. Based on the posts, it looks like your previous owner may have swapped the lock cylinders, so the only way to be sure about the key is to have it punched out on a genuine NSX key punching machine using the code that is actually on the lock cylinder and not what is associated with the VIN. I hope you get this sorted out!

I know zip about the monel keys; but, the OP's key in post #18 looks to be a garden variety plated brass key. The pattern of the grooves looks very much like my keys (which granted are T5 blanks with an immobilizer chip) which a locksmith cut with a conventional key cutter.

If a previous owner has swapped lock cylinders, life would be easier because the cylinder key code should provide the path to the replacement key. If the locksmith / dealer that the OP consulted was competent and cut the key based upon the 4 numbers correctly, chances are that the cylinder may have been rekeyed in which case the pins / wafers for that cylinder don't match the number stamped on the cylinder. In such case the OP is effectively screwed.