1991 NSX Igniton Cylinder Issue.

[Black NSX F1]

Hey Guys, I have replace my ignition switch 4 years ago. I’m having an issue where when the key is inserted into the ignition cylinder, it gets stuck and won’t turn. It turns if I wiggle it up and down. I tried dry key lock lube and no luck. It’s definitely getting more harder to wiggle it. I think I need a new ignition cylinder. Will a new one be a plug and play?

 

[Old Guy]

Plug and play - as in easy to do? I think that is probably a big no.

35100-SL0-A01 is the original lock assembly which appears to be NLA. 35100-SL0-A02 is the lock assembly used on the later cars with immobilizers and may be an acceptable replacement. I suggest you confirm that with your dealer. Replacing the assembly means removing the lower panel under the dash. The most complicated part is probably the requirement to drill out the shear bolts. Make sure the replacement lock comes with replacement shear bolts and if not make sure you order them.

Read page 23-73 to 23-74 of the 1991 service manual before you try this and plan for at least 2-3 hours.

Do the replacement before you totally screw up the cylinder because you need the key and cylinder in position 1 to remove the assembly from the steering column.

 

[Black NSX F1]

Thank you!! I didn’t even know it would
need that much work. Really hoping to plug and play but I just order one from Thensxshop.com. Hopefully it won’t be a pain in the ass. Thanks again! Do you happen to know the shear bolts P/N? I can’t seem to find it.

 

[Old Guy]

It may not be a pain in the ass; but, I can guarantee you that it will be a pain in the neck / back, particularly if you are past 30! Doing anything in and under the dash is a treat.

If you look at the parts diagram

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-...ust-heater-fuel-cat/combination-switch-1-scat

the shear bolt is part #3 . I interpret the dashed line to mean that part #3 is included in the package that makes up part 35100-SL0-A01. However, you might want to fire off an email to TheNSXshop to confirm that the bolt is included in the package. If not, should be available from the dealer; but, it would be a 'pain in the ass' to find that it was a special order item.

 

[Black NSX F1]

It may not be a pain in the ass; but, I can guarantee you that it will be a pain in the neck / back, particularly if you are past 30! Doing anything in and under the dash is a treat.

If you look at the parts diagram

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-...ust-heater-fuel-cat/combination-switch-1-scat

the shear bolt is part #3 . I interpret the dashed line to mean that part #3 is included in the package that makes up part 35100-SL0-A01. However, you might want to fire off an email to TheNSXshop to confirm that the bolt is included in the package. If not, should be available from the dealer; but, it would be a 'pain in the ass' to find that it was a special order item.

awesome!! One more question. Do you know how much I need? On the manual it’s says drill the “heads” off. So I’m assuming 2 or more. Thanks

 

[goldNSX]

I've had a similar problem and it was a worn key, not the cylinder.

 

[Black NSX F1]

I've had a similar problem and it was a worn key, not the cylinder.

How would you go about fixing this? Get a new key? It’s a 91

 

[goldNSX]

Well, I had a second (new) key and used that one. I could see quite a difference between the two. Not sure how Honda US handles your request if you wish them to send you a new key but even in Europe they cut you a new key if you can proof that you're the legal owner of the car and the price was fair (far cheaper than a new cylinder). 91 is easier (cheaper too) than 97+ because of the absence of an immobilizer system. My strong guess is that the key is the one that wears out by design first, not the cylinder.

 

[Black NSX F1]

Well, I had a second (new) key and used that one. I could see quite a difference between the two. Not sure how Honda US handles your request if you wish them to send you a new key but even in Europe they cut you a new key if you can proof that you're the legal owner of the car and the price was fair (far cheaper than a new cylinder). 91 is easier (cheaper too) than 97+ because of the absence of an immobilizer system. My strong guess is that the key is the one that wears out by design first, not the cylinder.

you guys are really awesome! Love the feedbacks!!! Since it’s 91.. I Technically can just grab any key and make a copy?

 

[goldNSX]

you guys are really awesome! Love the feedbacks!!! Since it’s 91.. I Technically can just grab any key and make a copy?

You're welcome!

Theoretically YES but the problem is the wear rate of the old key. If you just copy the 'worn' key you also copy the wear to the 'new' key. So you might have the same problem as before. Do you have a spare key for the car which is near to new or shows only low wear? The car normally comes with three keys (the third is for the wallet, not sure).

 

[Black NSX F1]

I have a feeling you might be right. Unfortunately, I only have one key:frown: . I should just go to the dealer and spend the $100 for the key. What sucks is I litteraly just spent $430 on this Igniton Kit from TheNSXshop.com. His policy does state I can cancel before it has process. So I’m guessing it hasn’t process yet. Fingers cross and hopes he refunds to see if I can try this trick!! Thanks again !!

 

[The King]

I have a feeling you might be right. Unfortunately, I only have one key:frown: . I should just go to the dealer and spend the $100 for the key. What sucks is I litteraly just spent $430 on this Igniton Kit from TheNSXshop.com. His policy does state I can cancel before it has process. So I’m guessing it hasn’t process yet. Fingers cross and hopes he refunds to see if I can try this trick!! Thanks again !!

I expect someone would take the ignition kit off your hands to have for a spare, if you do end up with it. A new key can be cut at a dealer if you happen to know the key code. The previous owner may have it. They don't cut the new key using your old key. The original selling dealer should have the key code on file, if you to know where it was sold. They obviously would need you to show prove of ownership.

 

[Old Guy]

As [MENTION=25016]The King[/MENTION] notes, if you have key code a competent locksmith should be able to cut you a new key. The key code is on a little metal tag which was typically on a loop attached to one of the keys. Presumably you take the tag off and put it in a safe place. If you are down to a single key I am going to bet that the 'tag is long gone; however, check in the wallet that holds the owners manual. Someone may have stuffed the tag in there for safe keeping. Also, with incredible luck perhaps the original owner wrote the key code on the owners ID page in the manual.

Absent the key code tag, I seem to recall if you take your VIN and suitable proof of ownership to the dealership they may be able to retrieve the key code for you and then cut a key. I don't know how long Honda keeps those records; but, worth a try.

If it is in fact the lock cylinder and not a worn key, you have one additional issue to deal with. The parts diagram indicates that the new lock assembly comes with a new set of keys - kind of obvious. I point out that this means that the ignition lock will no longer match the door locks. If you had the original key code, it might be possible to have the new ignition lock re pinned to match the original key. Or you could get the door cylinders re pinned to match the new ignition lock. Or you could just live with two different keys. Or you could completely scrap the keys and go to keyless entry with a push to start system (if you trust aftermarket stuff).

The service manual refers to shear bolts; but, the picture in the manual and the parts diagram only shows one bolt so I vote for a single shear bolt.

 

[goldNSX]

Which raises the question to me how the existing key works in both doors and the trunk locks. I guess better.

If anyone used brute force on the ignition lock the odds are not good. But there haven't been many 'known' problems with the key in the NSX, so there's some hope after all.

In my case, my key just started to get 'fishy' but I've never used brute force. I've tried my second (new) key which worked for years perfectly. Well, it was not an NSX but a Honda and it was a 2000 with a chip in the key.

A new key from the dealer is the way to try first. Changing all cylinders is are nightmare and having two types of keys for the ign/doors is a no-go IMO.

Good luck!

 

[Old Guy]

Which raises the question to me how the existing key works in both doors and the trunk locks. I guess better.

If anyone used brute force on the ignition lock the odds are not good. But there haven't been many 'known' problems with the key in the NSX, so there's some hope after all.

I was told by a locksmith that the ignition switch lock cylinder failure was the common problem and was related to the fact that the key spends more 'time' in the ignition switch. His statement was that if there is anything hanging from the ignition key, motion of the key caused by road related vibration combined with the weight of whatever is hanging from the key results in slow long term wear on the lock pins. His advice was to keep your house keys / bottle opener / shrunken head key fob / whatever on a separate ring, not hanging from the ignition key. He said that what kills the entry locks is dirt and moisture (which turns to ice where I live) getting into the mechanism. Most NSXs don't do winter duty so the door and trunk locks should last a fairly long time.

 

[Black NSX F1]

I was told by a locksmith that the ignition switch lock cylinder failure was the common problem and was related to the fact that the key spends more 'time' in the ignition switch. His statement was that if there is anything hanging from the ignition key, motion of the key caused by road related vibration combined with the weight of whatever is hanging from the key results in slow long term wear on the lock pins. His advice was to keep your house keys / bottle opener / shrunken head key fob / whatever on a separate ring, not hanging from the ignition key. He said that what kills the entry locks is dirt and moisture (which turns to ice where I live) getting into the mechanism. Most NSXs don't do winter duty so the door and trunk locks should last a fairly long time.

Thanks def will try dealer first hopping this is it. You guys are the best!

 

[goldNSX]

I was told by a locksmith that the ignition switch lock cylinder failure was the common problem and was related to the fact that the key spends more 'time' in the ignition switch. His statement was that if there is anything hanging from the ignition key, motion of the key caused by road related vibration combined with the weight of whatever is hanging from the key results in slow long term wear on the lock pins. His advice was to keep your house keys / bottle opener / shrunken head key fob / whatever on a separate ring, not hanging from the ignition key. He said that what kills the entry locks is dirt and moisture (which turns to ice where I live) getting into the mechanism. Most NSXs don't do winter duty so the door and trunk locks should last a fairly long time.

I all agree and won't question the experience of the locksmith professional.

BUT my experience is the other way around. One of my old cars started with key problems. When I compared the worn versus the new key I was completly shocked by the differences and just wondered how it could even function properly. I've inserted the new key and drove the car on a daily base for four years without a single problem. I'm not saying that the cylinder might not contribute to the problem with 'its' own wear rate (you obviously just can imagine) but a completly new key reduces the tolerances by at least 50% as I still guess that the wear rate of the key is lower than the one of the cylinder by design, at least in a Honda.

Also, use some WD40 and spray it in the cylinder, use compressed air to get wrid of the metall shavings in the cylinder.

Maybe [MENTION=30345]Black NSX F1[/MENTION] can post a macro picture of the actual key. If you see more of a sinus wave than a sawtooth wave or a square wave the key is a goner.

 

[Black NSX F1]

I all agree and won't question the experience of the locksmith professional.

BUT my experience is the other way around. One of my old cars started with key problems. When I compared the worn versus the new key I was completly shocked by the differences and just wondered how it could even function properly. I've inserted the new key and drove the car on a daily base for four years without a single problem. I'm not saying that the cylinder might not contribute to the problem with 'its' own wear rate (you obviously just can imagine) but a completly new key reduces the tolerances by at least 50% as I still guess that the wear rate of the key is lower than the one of the cylinder by design, at least in a Honda.

Also, use some WD40 and spray it in the cylinder, use compressed air to get wrid of the metall shavings in the cylinder.

Maybe @Black NSX F1 can post a macro picture of the actual key. If you see more of a sinus wave than a sawtooth wave or a square wave the key is a goner.

 

[Old Guy]

View attachment 159854

I definitely would not be trying to cut a duplicate from that key!

 

[Black NSX F1]

I definitely would not be trying to cut a duplicate from that key!

the key is definitely worn...dealer this week, I’ll keep you guys posted

 

[goldNSX]

As expected...that's how my 'old' key looked like or even worse. So there's pretty much hope that a new one will fix it. If you lubricate the cylinder and remove the dirt from the key from time to time it will last many, many years before you have to replace all of them.

 

[Black NSX F1]

Can I use any key?? Dealer wants $180 for a blank.... then charge me to cut it. Since I don’t use an immobilizer. Can any key be cut, before I actually spend $180 for the actual titanium nsx blank key?? I’m guessing for the price that’s the titanium... lol... short story. I rather spend $10-$30 for cheap blank first if I could. Because I’m still trying to determine the issue . Thanks!!!!

 

[Black NSX F1]

As expected...that's how my 'old' key looked like or even worse. So there's pretty much hope that a new one will fix it. If you lubricate the cylinder and remove the dirt from the key from time to time it will last many, many years before you have to replace all of them.

Can I use any key?? Dealer wants $180 for a blank.... then charge me to cut it. Since I don’t use an immobilizer. Can any key be cut, before I actually spend $180 for the actual titanium nsx blank key?? I’m guessing for the price that’s the titanium... lol... short story. I rather spend $10-$30 for cheap blank first if I could. Because I’m still trying to determine the issue . Thanks!!!!

 

[goldNSX]

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-199...cal-exhaust-heater-fuel--combination-switch-1
8, 9, 10
The $15 key will also do too.
If it works you should cut a second key anyway and can decide then if it has to be the luxury titanium key (which is cool as I have it too ).

 

[Black NSX F1]

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-199...cal-exhaust-heater-fuel--combination-switch-1
8, 9, 10
The $15 key will also do too.
If it works you should cut a second key anyway and can decide then if it has to be the luxury titanium key (which is cool as I have it too ).

So so I can go any auto store with a blank should work?