damn, the results are crazy!
Zaino Z-PC: If you have swirl marks - look no further....
- Thread starter BATMANs
- Start date
Zaino all da way. i like to see someone challenge Zaino in that same situation....
Here's a question I have not seen asked.
My car has just a few minor sctahes...wouldn't really classify as swirls..maybe early stages.
I plan on trying z-5 first. Can/should Z-5 be applied with a DA orbital or by hand?
My car has just a few minor sctahes...wouldn't really classify as swirls..maybe early stages.
I plan on trying z-5 first. Can/should Z-5 be applied with a DA orbital or by hand?
I'm bumping this up since I'm starting to get PMs about paint advice. It must be a hard topic to search for......
- Joined
- 7 January 2013
- Messages
- 361
Hmm just read this I might be in the market for some paint Resurrection, damn the swirls!
What is the best way to PC places like mirrors and such? I have Random polisher for flat places...but the corners and mirrors and such...do you just use the polisher and be careful with the pressure?
by hand for mirrors. With ZPC.
- - - Updated - - -
Try ZAIO since it has very minute amounts of polish properties. The Z5 just fills in the swirls.
But to really do it right is to follow my original post.
- - - Updated - - -
Try ZAIO since it has very minute amounts of polish properties. The Z5 just fills in the swirls.
But to really do it right is to follow my original post.
After reading all the posts in this thread i'm a little unclear whether or not Zaino Z-pc can be used on early formula red cars.
Can some one clarify this please?
Can some one clarify this please?
I personally haven't heard of anything that may be a problem with regards to early formula red cars.
It will not be a problem at all, Z-PC is very mild and there is no way barring getting completely out of control you will hurt your finish. It is meant to be used for that final polish. In fact I will be working on my own car with Z-PC on Saturday. We did a major buff with 3M Compound which left some pretty serious holograms in the finish, and on Saturday we are going to remove them and jewel the finish with Z-PC. Jeweling is a process where you use a very, very soft pad at a very slow speed with slow movement on the Porter Cable. By moving slowly over the surface you give Z-PC a chance to work, the soft pad is less aggressive and removes just the right amount to give an outstanding final finish.
Z-PC is a diminishing abrasive, which means it starts out as big chunks that will remove the scratches and as it is worked it breaks down into a finer material that polishes up the surface. The biggest issue we have seen at my shop is people go too fast, don't work it enough or use too high of a speed. This leaves scratches in the finish. It is not a difficult product to use, but does take patience.
Hope that helps
Steve
Looks like some good stuff. Might have to give this a try and see the resort for myself :wink:.
- Joined
- 19 March 2003
- Messages
- 3,442
Thanks for the heads up, decided to pull the trigger and buy several bottles. Should be done this weekend.
whatcha get?
What pad is everyone using on the Porter with Z-pc? The white standard?
white
UPDATE:
I've swapped the last 2 order of application with no impact on appearance either way. The advantage of using Z6 or Z8 last is that I can clean up any small smear/residue that too much Z-CS may have left off.
Wash and use the suds to clay the car (as long as there is no grit in the suds)
Z-PC
ZAIO (optional)
Z5 (optional)
Z2
Z-CS Clear Seal
Z8 (this one is better) or Z6
If the buffing with Z-PC was done well, then you can just eliminate ZAIO and Z5 in the process and keep it as a maintenance follow up (ZAIO and/or Z5 and wipe off with Z6 or Z8).
I've swapped the last 2 order of application with no impact on appearance either way. The advantage of using Z6 or Z8 last is that I can clean up any small smear/residue that too much Z-CS may have left off.
Wash and use the suds to clay the car (as long as there is no grit in the suds)
Z-PC
ZAIO (optional)
Z5 (optional)
Z2
Z-CS Clear Seal
Z8 (this one is better) or Z6
If the buffing with Z-PC was done well, then you can just eliminate ZAIO and Z5 in the process and keep it as a maintenance follow up (ZAIO and/or Z5 and wipe off with Z6 or Z8).
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Just an update.
I now use the suds as my lubricant.
This cuts down on time and resources.
By pressure washing for a pre rinse, it removes the dirt/small gravel that might be on the paint surface first.
Washing, rinsing, detailer spray with clay bar was a waste.
Also, I have replaced the Zaino ZPC with Meguiars 105 since it does the same thing, but with faster results and is much cheaper (Wal-Mart)
I've done this with black paint.
I now use the suds as my lubricant.
This cuts down on time and resources.
By pressure washing for a pre rinse, it removes the dirt/small gravel that might be on the paint surface first.
Washing, rinsing, detailer spray with clay bar was a waste.
Also, I have replaced the Zaino ZPC with Meguiars 105 since it does the same thing, but with faster results and is much cheaper (Wal-Mart)
I've done this with black paint.
Last edited:
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
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- 6,898
Which raises my question who's using ZAINO or went with another brand?
I just came across this thread (didnt thoroughly read through every post) and the some Ive read...I would advise to proceed with EXTREME caution. If not careful, a rotory can do serious damage to Honda paint. Im new to the NSX community and just took delivery of my GPW last week. Im getting ready to do a full correction on it and I spent the last few days just with trial and error with right pad/product combinations.
Right off the bat I can CONFIDENTLY say the NSX paint does not need a rotory. You should be no where near the car with a rotory. Period.
1. Those of you taking the NSX through an automatic car wash are causing more damage to the clear coat then any environment variable out there. IMO...You can reduce 90% of swirl marks and spider webbing just by following this rule. Dont be afraid to tell ppl not to lean against the car. When protection is right, maint not only becomes easier but you wont risk marring or scratching the paint again.
2. I have used Zaino z2/z5 over a decade now (on/off depending on my mood, etc.) and I have nothing ill to say about their products. In fact I use z-16 exclusively to this day for dressing my tires.
3. NSX have very soft paint. One of the softest paints ive ever worked on. When I took delivery I saw a few deep scratches that i compounded out with a rupes DA / MF pad combination. For polishing a white CG hexlogic pad seems to be working better on this paint (as oppose to the rupes yellow pad Im used to traditionally). Product Im using that is Sonax perfect finish and will be coating the paint with Gyeon syncro.
Reason I say all this is because theres only so much clear coat we have to play with on every work order. Typically in my experience, rare exotic cars like the NSX wont have as much clear coat from the factory. Be greedy, extremely greedy with your clear coat. A rotory will eat that away if used wrong in no time. At some point in the very near future I will write up a full work order and blog the detail. However I felt i had to chime in as I would hate to see anyone here damage their paint. Just be careful please
Right off the bat I can CONFIDENTLY say the NSX paint does not need a rotory. You should be no where near the car with a rotory. Period.
1. Those of you taking the NSX through an automatic car wash are causing more damage to the clear coat then any environment variable out there. IMO...You can reduce 90% of swirl marks and spider webbing just by following this rule. Dont be afraid to tell ppl not to lean against the car. When protection is right, maint not only becomes easier but you wont risk marring or scratching the paint again.
2. I have used Zaino z2/z5 over a decade now (on/off depending on my mood, etc.) and I have nothing ill to say about their products. In fact I use z-16 exclusively to this day for dressing my tires.
3. NSX have very soft paint. One of the softest paints ive ever worked on. When I took delivery I saw a few deep scratches that i compounded out with a rupes DA / MF pad combination. For polishing a white CG hexlogic pad seems to be working better on this paint (as oppose to the rupes yellow pad Im used to traditionally). Product Im using that is Sonax perfect finish and will be coating the paint with Gyeon syncro.
Reason I say all this is because theres only so much clear coat we have to play with on every work order. Typically in my experience, rare exotic cars like the NSX wont have as much clear coat from the factory. Be greedy, extremely greedy with your clear coat. A rotory will eat that away if used wrong in no time. At some point in the very near future I will write up a full work order and blog the detail. However I felt i had to chime in as I would hate to see anyone here damage their paint. Just be careful please
I use Zaino or P21s/S100 (essentially the same product, but the motorcycle marketed one is half the price) depending on the car or bike.
I use 3M or Menzerna compounds with Chemical Guys pads and a basic Porter Cable DA, for light marring just a pass with Menzerna SF3800 on a red pad is enough, for heavier scratches 3M rubbing compound on a green or orange pad followed by the SF3800/red combo to finish.
The paint on my NSX is stupidly soft, it mars just by looking at it funny. Ended up PPF wrapping the whole thing after paint correction so I don't have to worry about it.
The paint on my NSX is stupidly soft, it mars just by looking at it funny. Ended up PPF wrapping the whole thing after paint correction so I don't have to worry about it.
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