Winter Storage Tips

Yinzer said:
I can give you the email of the GPW seller I met who intentionally had an Acura dealer rustproof the entire underside including the suspension arms. The aluminum bits are now safe from rust and look like they were dipped in chocolate, kind of nice!
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OMG, that is just hilarious.

GECKO said:
My cars been sitting on jack stands for 14 yrs during the winter and never had a problem. It's tracked, driven very aggressively and steering and handling are still tight.
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My car was on jackstands for about six weeks waiting for a new party, at the end of which period one of the shocks failed and barfed out its oil even though it had only 50k kms on it. I think the seal was not designed to be under 'reverse' pressure for that long. I won't leave my car on jackstands for extended periods anymore.
 
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nikey22 said:
Its my opinion, I'm not "diss'ing" anybody (is that a short form for disillusioning?)
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"Diss" is a widely-used slang for disrespect. Google it if you like.

nikey22 said:
Surely someone with over 26,000 posts, and over 13 years of membership in this forum should appreciate occasional voiced opinions.
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Actually, my post showed appreciation for a wide variety of opinions on how an NSX should be used. I wasn't the one showing intolerance and disrespect for those opinions that may differ from my own.
 
Ray,

Yes, the car should be on a trickle charger, even if it is in a heated garage, for two reasons:

First, Your battery is kept at the optimum charge during the long down time, so come Spring easy starting.

Second, and most important, is that your car Alarm system is activated during this period.

Bram
 
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There is a hotel in our neighborhood that rents spots in their under ground heated garage for storing cars, but don't have electrical outlet. I may have to just go every second weekend and start up the car. And drive it around the garage. . .. It's an excuse to get in the car!
 
Moisted said:
There is a hotel in our neighborhood that rents spots in their under ground heated garage for storing cars, but don't have electrical outlet. I may have to just go every second weekend and start up the car. And drive it around the garage. . .. It's an excuse to get in the car!
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I park our S2000 in a similar underground parkade, no power for charger or tender.
I just remove the negative battery lead. Six months later, put the neg lead back on and start it up. (leave a 10mm wrench in the car)
Only draw back is the alarm isn't active.
 
Moisted said:
There is a hotel in our neighborhood that rents spots in their under ground heated garage for storing cars, but don't have electrical outlet. I may have to just go every second weekend and start up the car. And drive it around the garage. . .. It's an excuse to get in the car!
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I've been through a similar situation.
I presume the hotel has security cameras so you don't need to worry too much about the NSX being towed away.
I'd suggest you fill up your gas tank to minimize condensation, park the NSX in a good parking spot, remove the battery, put on your car cover, and take the battery home and put it on a trickle charger for the winter.
The NSX will be fine over the winter and will start in the spring with your nicely charged battery.
 
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Moisted said:
There is a hotel in our neighborhood that rents spots in their under ground heated garage for storing cars, but don't have electrical outlet. I may have to just go every second weekend and start up the car. And drive it around the garage. . .. It's an excuse to get in the car!
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**(someone please correct me if I am wrong)

I heard that the most damage done to a car's engine is when the engine is turned over after a long period of time (oil settles therefore less lubrication on start-up).
From what I understand, when storing a car, it's best to only start it up again in the spring (when taking it out of storage). So ironically, by starting the car up every now-and-then is actually worse than not starting it up at all.
However, if the car is started frequently enough (every week?) the oil may not have a chance to settle and start-up will cause no damages.
I might be doing a lot of hand waving here.

Again, could someone with more experience confirm this or disprove this?

Thanks,

Lucas
 
jaja said:
**(someone please correct me if I am wrong)

I heard that the most damage done to a car's engine is when the engine is turned over after a long period of time (oil settles therefore less lubrication on start-up).
From what I understand, when storing a car, it's best to only start it up again in the spring (when taking it out of storage). So ironically, by starting the car up every now-and-then is actually worse than not starting it up at all.
However, if the car is started frequently enough (every week?) the oil may not have a chance to settle and start-up will cause no damages.
I might be doing a lot of hand waving here.
Again, could someone with more experience confirm this or disprove this?
Thanks,
Lucas
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The additive in engine oil that was traditionally used as an anti-wear additive was ZDDP.
ZDDP would cling to the metal surfaces of bearings, camshafts, lifters, etc and to keep metal surfaces lubricated until the fresh oil supply arrived.
ZDDP was found to harm catalytic converters so the amount in engine oil has been reduced over the years.
I've read this has reduced the anti-wear properties of modern oils.

When I first got my NSX I used to start it every three weeks or so in the winter, thinking I'd keep fresh oil on everything.
Then after I'd read about the ZDDP effect I stopped that practice and now leave the engine alone all winter.
 
100% Correct Lucas.

Bram

jaja said:
**(someone please correct me if I am wrong)

I heard that the most damage done to a car's engine is when the engine is turned over after a long period of time (oil settles therefore less lubrication on start-up).
From what I understand, when storing a car, it's best to only start it up again in the spring (when taking it out of storage). So ironically, by starting the car up every now-and-then is actually worse than not starting it up at all.
However, if the car is started frequently enough (every week?) the oil may not have a chance to settle and start-up will cause no damages.
I might be doing a lot of hand waving here.

Again, could someone with more experience confirm this or disprove this?

Thanks,

Lucas
Click to expand...
 
JD Cross said:
I've been through a similar situation.
I presume the hotel has security cameras so you don't need to worry too much about the NSX being towed away.
I'd suggest you fill up your gas tank to minimize condensation, park the NSX in a good parking spot, remove the battery, put on your car cover, and take the battery home and put it on a trickle charger for the winter.
The NSX will be fine over the winter and will start in the spring with your nicely charged battery.
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If I take the battery home, why would I need to put it on a trickle charger? I thought some people just disconnect the battery and leave it in the car all winter. If it's not connected to anything does it still discharge?
 
Moisted said:
If I take the battery home, why would I need to put it on a trickle charger? I thought some people just disconnect the battery and leave it in the car all winter. If it's not connected to anything does it still discharge?
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A battery loses a % of it's charge each day it's not being charged.
 
My Canadian friends it is damn cold up her end I have only been here 3 days (Montreal). Got to drive the NSX up here earlier in the year and have woo'd a few Canadians to get NSX. I expect them to have an NSX in the next year or so.

Have a good holiday.
 
jaja said:
**(someone please correct me if I am wrong)

I heard that the most damage done to a car's engine is when the engine is turned over after a long period of time (oil settles therefore less lubrication on start-up).
From what I understand, when storing a car, it's best to only start it up again in the spring (when taking it out of storage). So ironically, by starting the car up every now-and-then is actually worse than not starting it up at all.
However, if the car is started frequently enough (every week?) the oil may not have a chance to settle and start-up will cause no damages.
I might be doing a lot of hand waving here.

Again, could someone with more experience confirm this or disprove this?

Thanks,

Lucas
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Good point Lucas. I will leave her alone then for a while.
 
thank you for this!

jaja said:
**(someone please correct me if I am wrong)

I heard that the most damage done to a car's engine is when the engine is turned over after a long period of time (oil settles therefore less lubrication on start-up).
From what I understand, when storing a car, it's best to only start it up again in the spring (when taking it out of storage). So ironically, by starting the car up every now-and-then is actually worse than not starting it up at all.
However, if the car is started frequently enough (every week?) the oil may not have a chance to settle and start-up will cause no damages.
I might be doing a lot of hand waving here.

Again, could someone with more experience confirm this or disprove this?

Thanks,

Lucas
Click to expand...
 
Has anyone tried running Joe Gibb's oil? It is high in zinc content which is supposed to be great for filling in microscopic scratch's in cylinder walls.( I have a buddy with a 582 Chevelle who runs this stuff, very pricey at $12 a liter, and it's not even the synthetic versionl.) It might prevent wear on start up. Then again, if you were really worried about dry starts you could always hook up an oil accumulator to build oil pressure before starting the motor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nz6Mzo3alQ
 
My car has been stored for 22 winters. Original Owner in Chicago, and now myself in Edmonton. (this is Winter 23) Never started during the winter. Normally, 5 - 6 months at a time. No noticeable oil burn at 45,500 miles. Wear on start up probably isn't worth the worry.
 
agree with warrenw on this one, as long as you have oil in the car and coolant in the car over the winter, you should be fine. Do NOT drain oil and do NOT drain away coolant and leave the block empty.
 
orangez28 said:
Has anyone tried running Joe Gibb's oil? It is high in zinc content which is supposed to be great for filling in microscopic scratch's in cylinder walls.( I have a buddy with a 582 Chevelle who runs this stuff, very pricey at $12 a liter, and it's not even the synthetic versionl.) It might prevent wear on start up. Then again, if you were really worried about dry starts you could always hook up an oil accumulator to build oil pressure before starting the motor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nz6Mzo3alQ
Click to expand...

A mechanic friend of mine uses Molyslip in just about everthing that he owns. Some of his vehicles rarely get started ( old volks bug and 442 Cutlass ) so he wants a product that clings to all internal surfaces. He puts it in small motors like lawn mowers and outboard boat motors also. He swears by this stuff. I started using it in my S2000 after an oil change or two. All is well after 35000 kms and 13 plus years. I feel it provides a little extra protection to an engine that often revs to 9000. At this point I have not started using it in the Nsx. It doesn't get redlined quite as much as the 2000. Oh, and guess what, I still haven't replaced the coolant hoses on that car either!
 

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