Do you?
I had a DF battery tray in carbon fiber, it does the same thing but heaver.
That's the one I had in my car, along with the cf undertray, and gas panel.
I thought it looked cool with the hood open
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Who wants a bent piece of aluminum?
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Do you?
That's the one I had in my car, along with the cf undertray, and gas panel.
I thought it looked cool with the hood open
It's $350. That's what I paid for it and that's what DFs site says it goes for http://downforce.biz/cart/product.php?productid=16309&cat=290&page=2
It is not cost prohibitive, obviously, as I bought one as have others. But it is certainly not what a bent piece of aluminum such as this should be selling for. It is simply charging what the market can bear and maximizing profit. Understandably, this is the reason DF ever made it and they are allowed to charge whatever they like. And if I ever make any, I can charge whatever I like. Mine won't have the pretty little squares and rectangles stamped out to make it appear more OEM and therefore somehow worth more but it will be just as effective at doing its job.
You're right that it's not a money-making venture when compared to their other products but it certainly is making them more money than I'd charge.
Sorry you're confused by this thread. Perhaps you can refer to an earlier post by me explaining that the intent is for those planning to do the upgrade anyway (meaning they planned to buy both from DF) would be able to get the under battery portion from an alternate, less expensive source. The under bumper part is not what I'm making, only the bent piece of aluminum. Hope that clears it up for you, confused one. Reading posts in the thread helps tremendously to clear up "confusion".
If they make 100-150 per part, that is 100-150 room for me to play. I don't intend to sell this for much, if any, profit. If it takes 200 to make one, I'll sell it for like 225. Still a lot cheaper than 350. If that's small change to you, how about you give me 100-150 out of your pocket, money bags. I don't know how you shop, but if I can save 150 on a part, and it's proven to be a reputable part, I'll save the money, thank you very much. Gives me more money to spend on all the other over priced stuff that I can't make for myself.
At the end of the day, I'm doing this for the community, not for a profit. Just let me do a nice thing for my friends here in the Bay Area and keep your opinion to yourself. I don't even know if I'm going to sell these. Right now, it's just a project I'm doing for locals which is why I originally posted this in the NorCal section. it's gotten way more attention here in the vendor section than I wanted.
J
Instead of doing this, isn't it possible to make a large part that does the job of three items: front splitter like CL65Captain has made, front bumper undertray and the bent piece of aluminum undertray all in one? Wouldn't that be better and lighter? possibly even easier to make? I have seen some people make their own very large undertray covering all of this.
+1.
The two pieces probably have to be made separately so it can be shipped reasonably.
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George
In a word, yes.
I've contemplated doing 2/3 of what TURBO2GO suggested (not the splitter portion a la CL65Captain, though that's a great idea) and after probably a combined hour of lying on my back looking at the under side of the front end of my car, i concluded that it's likely possible for guys who could pick it up locally but the shipping cost would likely make the net cost similar to, if not more than, the original part.
I'm really only doing this for folks contemplating buying the pair of parts and being able to provide the aluminum portion at a greatly reduced cost. Maybe I'll work on a forward portion too and if so, I'd make it two pieces that fastened together to help with boxing and shipping costs. I don't know, though. Classic case of scope creep :redface:
J
Just a side note... I was under the impression that the NSX-R part also included two rubber fins that ran the length of both sides, parallel to the car. The purpose was to help straighten out the air direction flowing under the car. In any of the replicas that I have seen, I never see these fins.
It just seems like if people are going to be installing this part, they should get the maximum benefit of it. Here is an example of what I am talking about:
It just seems like if people are going to be installing this part, they should get the maximum benefit of it. Here is an example of what I am talking about:
The part I bought from DF (via SOS) had those fins and I intend to put something on the ones I plan to make, though probably of aluminum if I can't find an appropriate material to imitate the foam used on OEM and DF examples.
J
James, as long as you are making a template, presumably with some holes for drainage too, note that the OEM version was made for a pre 97 style battery tray hence why the holes on the front end will work to drain ... for 97+ the battery tray covers most of the holes of the undertray. The picture of the yellow NSX with the undertray shows that. HTH
Just a side note... I was under the impression that the NSX-R part also included two rubber fins that ran the length of both sides, parallel to the car. The purpose was to help straighten out the air direction flowing under the car. In any of the replicas that I have seen, I never see these fins.
It just seems like if people are going to be installing this part, they should get the maximum benefit of it. Here is an example of what I am talking about:
I add it later, it took a while to get it from Japan, here are the part numbers. It is also just two pieces of rubber, it should be easy to replicate.
Complete my OEM NSX-R undertray.
Aluminum under-tray 74112-SL0-Z10
Rubber under piece 74153-SL0-Z10 left
Rubber under piece 74113-SL0-Z10 rigth
10 Push in clip 91503-SZ3-003
2 10mm bolts
Thanks for the tips, Hrant. The first I make will not have holes for drainage and I'll see how much of an issue it is.
On mine, with the vented hood, it gets pretty wet in there after a wash and so I dry it off after each wash. But that's because I'm picky and under the hood is as clean as the top Others might just let the water drain out and dry. It's not like the tray is water tight to the ground below. Most of the water will drain out when driven (though you may get quite a puddle's worth of water the first time the car starts moving).
I'll make a few without the holes and after a few washings run it by my "focus group"
. If feedback says they want drainage holes, i would make them circular so as to minimize cost.J
http://minorrubber.thomasnet.com/viewitems/angle-extrusions-br-zx-1000-series-/right-angles?
http://www.acmerubber.com/lstrips.htm
Depending on the durometer of the material, those will probably work well enough for strakes.
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George
http://www.acmerubber.com/lstrips.htm
Depending on the durometer of the material, those will probably work well enough for strakes.
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George
i have some leftover alumilte, can someone tell me what the approximate width and length is of the battery under-tray? And the a, b, c measurements below for the cut out for the suspension arms.
a = 19"
b = 2 1/4"
c= 8 7/8"
I made a copy of my OEM NSX-R battery tray out of sheet metal.
A = 31 3/4"
B = 34"
C = 19"
D = 6 3/16"
E = 8 7/8"
F = 24 7/8"
G = 10"
H = 5"
I = 5"
J = 3 3/4"
K = 10 9/16"
L = 1 3/4"
M = 2 9/16"
N = 2 5/16"
O = 1 1/2"
P = 2 1/16"
Q = 5 1/2"
Chris for the win!!!!!
what are yall using to mount these?
what part numbers are they btw:smile:
what part numbers are they btw:smile:
Is there a reason why the front piece is frp and the battery tray aluminum? Any guesses?
Chris - you sir have got a cold beer on me next time we meet. Thx!
Chris - you sir have got a cold beer on me next time we meet. Thx!
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