when rebuilding a motor what sensors is advised to replace?

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28 November 2009
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I'm sure i was reading a article some where on Prime that suggests replacing certain sensors when rebuilding the motor, what were these?

I think it was down to ease of access while the motor was apart as well as being advised as a serviceable item.
 
The cam / crank position sensor can develop an ugly ooze that makes it look like its approaching the end of its useful life. However, I am not aware that they are particularly prone to failure in spite of that ooze. That sensor is probably the most inaccessible. The O2 sensors are probably the most 'service requiring' sensor; but, they are not super difficult to get to.
 
The cam / crank position sensor can develop an ugly ooze that makes it look like its approaching the end of its useful life. However, I am not aware that they are particularly prone to failure in spite of that ooze. That sensor is probably the most inaccessible. The O2 sensors are probably the most 'service requiring' sensor; but, they are not super difficult to get to.

Cool ok, i do have a brand new cam / crank position sensor, it is non oem though. I was problem solving an issue wasn't sure of the cause needed a new sensor to rule it out but couldn't justify the expense just for testing. Had it sitting around a couple of years.

Would you trust a non oem part? it was from Rock Auto. Standard Motor Products part.

Infact it was this: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=40354&jnid=493&jpid=1

Would you trust it/use it? leave the old 20 year old one on or buy another oem one? (ouch, expensive..)
 
I have no basis for saying that the OEM sensor is better or worse than the aftermarket sensor.
 
The intake air temperature sensor is cheap to replace. So are the multiple coolant temperature sensors. I also used a new cam/crank position sensor (I think I bought it from the Acura dealer but it was either a Delphi unit or a Denso unit - can't remember at the moment).

I recommend buying two new knock sensors for the simple fact if the front one goes bad (and they have been known to on NSX's), it is a pain to replace if you use the OEM intake manifold. Better to do it now in my opinion.

Are you using the AEM Infinity? Now would be the time to discuss with your tuner what kind of aftermarket knock sensors they recommend.
 
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I have no basis for saying that the OEM sensor is better or worse than the aftermarket sensor.

Ok, so i might as well replace the factory with the 3rd party one i have, it's still a good brand i believe.

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The intake air temperature sensor is cheap to replace. So are the multiple coolant temperature sensors. I also used a new cam/crank position sensor (I think I bought it from the Acura dealer but it was either a Delphi unit or a Denso unit - can't remember at the moment).

I recommend buying two new knock sensors for the simple fact if the front one goes bad (and they have been known to on NSX's), it is a pain to replace if you use the OEM intake manifold. Better to do it now in my opinion.

Are you using the AEM Infinity? Now would be the time to discuss with your tuner what kind of aftermarket knock sensors they recommend.

I replaced the air temp not so long ago, that should be good.

That's it, the knock sensors, i remember seeing them when i had the intake manifold off a while back. Again, they are expensive... Would i be ok from a 3rd party if i stuck to decent brands from the likes of Rock Auto and not unkown brands from ebay?

I could do a sensor overhaul, would be nice but some are silly money and there are a few of them.

Yeah, i have the Aem Infinity in there. I've not really discussed tuning, i'm hoping it will start with the current tune as a base map, injectors will not be changing as of yet anyway (ID 725's) Apparently good for around 600 bhp. Not given aftermarket know sensors a thought, will see what AEM offers, thanks.

For ease i might take it to TDI PLC who have tuned lots of high performance cars and know AEM products, then get the car home hire a dyno and get Cody double check over the tune. I'm not sure how affective tuning the car would be over wifi so might be best to get it tuned here and double checked by Cody once it is at least safe to drive. I wouldn't want to drive the car without someone like Cody giving me the thumbs up.
 
Ok, so i might as well replace the factory with the 3rd party one i have, it's still a good brand i believe.

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I replaced the air temp not so long ago, that should be good.

That's it, the knock sensors, i remember seeing them when i had the intake manifold off a while back. Again, they are expensive... Would i be ok from a 3rd party if i stuck to decent brands from the likes of Rock Auto and not unkown brands from ebay?

I could do a sensor overhaul, would be nice but some are silly money and there are a few of them.

Yeah, i have the Aem Infinity in there. I've not really discussed tuning, i'm hoping it will start with the current tune as a base map, injectors will not be changing as of yet anyway (ID 725's) Apparently good for around 600 bhp. Not given aftermarket know sensors a thought, will see what AEM offers, thanks.

For ease i might take it to TDI PLC who have tuned lots of high performance cars and know AEM products, then get the car home hire a dyno and get Cody double check over the tune. I'm not sure how affective tuning the car would be over wifi so might be best to get it tuned here and double checked by Cody once it is at least safe to drive. I wouldn't want to drive the car without someone like Cody giving me the thumbs up.

I would still ask your tuners which knock sensors they recommend. Otherwise, I have used the Airtex before and they work fine.

Once your engine runs, get it tuned as soon as possible!!!! Not just for the obvious reason, but you want it tuned as quickly as possible so you can go out and beat on it to correctly seat the rings.
 
I would still ask your tuners which knock sensors they recommend. Otherwise, I have used the Airtex before and they work fine.

Once your engine runs, get it tuned as soon as possible!!!! Not just for the obvious reason, but you want it tuned as quickly as possible so you can go out and beat on it to correctly seat the rings.

Cool ok, I'll ask the tuner. If they don't require anything special I'll replace them with a quality 3rd party replacement.

I'm hoping the engine shop will run the engine in for me on the engine dyno, if they are not able to I'll ask the tuner to run it in on the hub dyno, in which case then I'll get the car trailered to the tuners if the engine is unable to run it in. Although I do like the sound of beating on it hard ;).
 
Adding those sensors has really pushed my cart up.

I've gone through the entire part list and covered pretty much every o-ring, gasket found in both the block and heads, spool valves, valve covers etc etc complete set. Also added a few like injectors etc and a few nuts n bolts that need replacing for example the headers.

I already have allot, my cart has come to $1000 pretty much but also includes water pump and multiple sensors, oil, knock etc.

I'm debating if to purchase non oem sensors and waterpump.

2 Standard motor products knock sensors would be $100 saving and the water pump Gates vs oem $200 cheaper Airtex is about $130 cheaper

I'm only planning on doing it once, if the non oem parts are not as good i will go oem but if i can safely save myself $300-$500 for the same quality/reliability surely it is worth it?

This is all from rock auto so you decent brands, Standard motor products, gates, airtex, beck etc.
 
You shouldn't need any nuts or bolts for the headers. Those are all reusable.

Also, don't buy exhaust manifold gaskets - those are metal and reusable.

The intake manifold gaskets are phenolic material with a thin rubber seal. Mine were in great shape and looked like they would have sealed well again, but I went ahead and replaced them since I had bought the complete upper and lower gasket/rubber seal kits.

You could price the complete Honda upper and lower gasket kits and compare with the total cost from your list. Keep in mind you can resell the new OEM head gaskets on Prime. That's what I did since there seems to be a market for them.

Things that are not included with the seal kits are camshaft seals (four total on the gear side), and the four black camshaft plugs on the other side. Make sure you buy new ones. It wasn't until I went to reassemble the engine that I realized I didn't have new ones and needed to buy those separately. I think the black cam plugs were on backorder when I needed them a few years ago and that delayed my rebuild a few weeks.

The Airtek knock sensors are a lot cheaper then OEM and they work fine. I don't think you need replacement OEM oil sensors (I guess that would be a total of four) since the most important one is aftermarket and wired into your AEM Infinity ECU.

Personally, I would buy the OEM waterpump, but aftermarket may be OK. The water pump impeller designs were modified by Honda for the high-revving engines. They actually flow a bit less at high RPM, but help prevent pump cavitation. Not sure if the aftermarket took that into account or not since I've never compared them.

You can clean/reuse your old TB covers. There's no need to buy new plastic ones.

I know it adds up. Between all the hoses and rubbers/gaskets on this car, it was a good chunk of change. Another reason I like old American big-block engines....

Dave
 
That is very true, i will look up the complete sets.

I had gone through and noticed the cam oil seals were missing, also few others.

Yeah, ok probably best to stick oem with the pump without anyone who has done a direct comparison of the two. To be fair my pump should be in good shape, it's done about 5,000 miles. Was replaced couple years back. Just figuring if it's all coming apart and seeing the issues i've had although non water based i just want something solid with no issues in the near future.

Check oil, jump in, turn key, let it warm up and off i go with no worries.
 
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