waterpump air vent gurus advice needed!!!!!

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22 December 2002
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Sector 001, the Terran System
Hi,

So my car is parked for the winter and I have decided to change the water pump and timing belt. All is good, I'm following the manual and I have replaced both the waterpump and timing belt, Everything is all good until I try to re install the lower timing belt cover and it won't go on. I mess with for a long time trying to get it on then I notice what is causing the timing cover not to go on. It's this modified design for the air vent hole on the new water pump.


My questions are:

1) is this design good for my 91 NSX?
2) if so, can I remove the brass color nipple so it will fit?


I know I am not first to run into this problem. What did you guys do or have done.


My car 91 with 63,xxx km. I have never had the timing belt and water pump changed. Both the waterpump and timing belt look in excellent shape. Will take pictures of the old timing belt later..


thanks.

left picture is the new water pump.
right picture is the old water pump.
 

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Drill a hole in the cover so it clears.

Thanks for the response Brian.

Do I have to drill a hole? Trev here locally has a hole drilled out in his timing belt cover.

I do not want to drill a hole in the cover for 2 reasons
1) I don't want dirt and other contaminates to enter in.
2) I do not like the cosmetics of having a hole drilled into the timing belt cover.



Is it okay if I remove the brass looking steel vent nipple?
Either by sawing it off or twisting it out
 
The vent was changed so that if there is coolant that comes out if does not get on the timing belt and cause it to jump damaging the engine. You can buy the proper cover and rubber grommet if you want it perfect but the standard procedure used is to drill a hole. Entry of dirt is minimal and not a concern.
 
The vent was changed so that if there is coolant that comes out if does not get on the timing belt and cause it to jump damaging the engine. You can buy the proper cover and rubber grommet if you want it perfect but the standard procedure used is to drill a hole. Entry of dirt is minimal and not a concern.


Thanks Brian and the explaination. I guess I will drill a hole then..
 
You could install a rubber grommet which fits over the tube and into the hole so as to prevent any debris from entering. It will also look more OEM.
 
drill the hole :tongue:

it works. also who is going to look at the lower tb cover.

the water pump we get for our customers come with a new water pump cover so everyone gets a brand new piece with their tb job :D

dont worry about the dust, people run tb's with out any tb cover all the time in high performance cars and there are no issues assocaited with it.

happy motoring and thumbs up to you sir for doing the Tb yourself. :smile:

btw im sure you know this but just in case you forgot. rotate the crank 720 degrees to make sure all the camgear and crank pulley timing parts are all lined up. better do it now than putting it all togeather only to pull it off again.

Rob
 
drill the hole :tongue:

it works. also who is going to look at the lower tb cover.

the water pump we get for our customers come with a new water pump cover so everyone gets a brand new piece with their tb job :D

dont worry about the dust, people run tb's with out any tb cover all the time in high performance cars and there are no issues assocaited with it.

happy motoring and thumbs up to you sir for doing the Tb yourself. :smile:

btw im sure you know this but just in case you forgot. rotate the crank 720 degrees to make sure all the camgear and crank pulley timing parts are all lined up. better do it now than putting it all togeather only to pull it off again.

Rob

Thanks for the timing belt tip,,

This is what I do. Before I take anything apart. I rotate the crank to TDC. I ensure that everything is lined up where it should be.

then I get touch up paint and mark 1 tooth on the cam/crank gears and then on the timing belt I mark with touch up paint the 2 corresponding teeth. So on the NSX cam/crank gears, I got 5 painted teeth and on the timing belt I got 10 painted teeth with alot of many unpainted teeth.

Then I go transfer those painted teeth onto the new timing belt. I count how many unpainted teeth between the painted teeth 5-6 times to ensure that I counted the correct number of teeth between the painted teeth. Put everything back together. Set the adjuster. Rotate 720 and check again.

This method is slower but I am ensured that the new timing belt will fit where it should. I have found this method has worked for me on all my timing belts that I have changed on the first attempt. I have found that the methods of "exhaust cam should be 1 tooth back when installing the belt" etc etc was a hit and miss. Sometimes it was bang on sometimes I had to do 2x or more especially changing a timing belt on car that I am unfamilar with and that is lots..ahhaha

PS. My crankpulley needed the 45mm holding tool vs the 50mm holding tool
 

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awesome picture! can tell where everything is just by a glance!

very nice!

i always use white out and mark all the alingment points on the cam gear and crank so i can take one look at everything and know they are lined up. Some customer are already on their second tb. Im sure the first tech was great but its up to me to line everything up anyways from scrach so just in case they where off by 1-2 teeth, i wont be. all the ones on their first tb are always dead on of course :D

for the TB. i find its quick and easy if you lock each cam in place with a long stick or something that would fit the holes that go through the cam and to the head. The apply tension to the belts unlocking each cam at a time then apply the locks after your done.

quick and easy and for the last exhast cam, when everything is locked down, its very smooth when it comes time to dial in that extra teeth.

take all the locks out, spin her around and assembly time!:smile:

ps. i bought the 50mm tool like a sucker :P and it didnt fit. i just use a chain wrench on the crank pully and i works everytime.
 
My car 91 with 63,xxx km. I have never had the timing belt and water pump changed. Both the waterpump and timing belt look in excellent shape. Will take pictures of the old timing belt later..

Well then why did you change it?????:confused:
Go ahead, drive it until it looks like it needs changing and then do it. Everyone else does it just so they can brag about spendning money on the car needlessly.:rolleyes:
 
Ron98, I think he means just drive it and then once in a while, open the hood and look under the bonnet to see if the belt is ok or not. Probably every other gas fill up.
Ya, thats it, the hood is the thingy in the front of the car where the engine is and since this car has an exposed belt and everyone can read belt conditions, then thats the way to do it.
Now that is sarcasm!
Trev
 
Ron98, I think he means just drive it and then once in a while, open the hood and look under the bonnet to see if the belt is ok or not. Probably every other gas fill up.
Ya, thats it, the hood is the thingy in the front of the car where the engine is and since this car has an exposed belt and everyone can read belt conditions, then thats the way to do it.
Now that is sarcasm!
Trev

LMAO !!!!
Good one Trev !!!:biggrin:
 
Update.......

Finished the t-belt, waterpump and valve adjust yesterday.

Took a while to start, battery was toast because I didn't maintain it at all over the winter. (good thing I have 12 months free replacement). Took a while to start but it started and ran smooth. Good thing I went out and bought that big battery charge with instant 150amp starting power Trev.

Funny on how I started this way back in Nov and now its Feb..That's what happens when you wait for unexpected parts to come in(updated timing belt cover (thanks Larry B), x mas, new years, few cold days, chinese new years, and simple procrasitation...

I left certain components off like alternator, engine mount, belts, etc so I don't have to take them all off again for an upcoming install....


All and all I believe a t-belt and waterpump are not too difficult to perform on the NSX. Could almost do it blind folded on the next one...Only thing I think I would need reference with would be setting the T-belt tensioner procedure..
 
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I know this isn't answering the question at hand, but...

The cost of the water pump and new cover is less ($199) than the cost of a new water pump alone ($235).

Yeah, believe it. Just ask for p/n: 19200-PR7-305.

I suppose if you want to pay more and spend more time: that IS your choice.

**

Son's Acura 800-677-6610 ask for Sean, he might be able to get it for less than $199.

:)

Drew
 
I did a timing belt & water pump change without knowing about the pump-cover combo price (or maybe it wasn't available a year ago).

Here's what I did:

1) fill the old hole with silicon rubber
2) drill the new hole
3) I made a washer by cutting off a 3/16" to 1/4" long piece of rubber hose - I used fuel line - the diameter of the fuel pump vent pipe, installed the cover, & slipped the "washer" over the pipe.

Dust problem solved.

Frank
'96 NSX-T, red/tan
 
I know this isn't answering the question at hand, but...

The cost of the water pump and new cover is less ($199) than the cost of a new water pump alone ($235).

Yeah, believe it. Just ask for p/n: 19200-PR7-305.

I suppose if you want to pay more and spend more time: that IS your choice.

**

Son's Acura 800-677-6610 ask for Sean, he might be able to get it for less than $199.

:)

Drew


Hey guys...

This is in fact a real Acura part # (19200-PR7-305). I just orderd this today from Lance at Acura of Peoria in AZ who I order all my parts from. He had it in stock so he opened it to confirm. Sure enough, new water pump, TB cover and rubber gromet for $203.38 It used to be under $200 but as of the first of the year Corp increased pricing.

The regular water pump # 19200-PR7-A02 sells for $219.75 alone. Go figure ... does not make sence?

Darrin
 
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