VIS Ducted Hood
- Thread starter Coz
- Start date
Cool! I just ordered one too! Should be here by Monday.
Did you install the hood pins? I'm installing this myself and have never installed pins before so any pointers would help...especially drilling the CF part...
Did it take any finesse to fit the hood on or did everything line up bangt on the first try?
Sorry for all the Q's, I'm just psyched to get my hood soon!
Did you install the hood pins? I'm installing this myself and have never installed pins before so any pointers would help...especially drilling the CF part...
Did it take any finesse to fit the hood on or did everything line up bangt on the first try?
Sorry for all the Q's, I'm just psyched to get my hood soon!
You'll guys will love the hood.
So far I can honesty say it's one of the very best deals I've gotten NSX wise for a carbon fiber part of this nature and size.
You may have to...I did...
Open up the holes on both of your hood hinges on the car. You'll find 2 on each. You want them just a little bigger so you have some room for adjustment for how it sits once in place. Put the hood on, tighten the bolts just snug so you can move it around. Close it. Look at your seams and go from there moving it around. Once you find the spot, tighten up the hinge bolts. Do not over tighten.
There are 2 holes already where the pins are on top under the hood on the upper support beam. I enlarged those holes so they would accept the Sparco hood pins I used so that I could actually screw the latch post in. Leave them up about 3". Put some white out on both pins on top. Gently close your hood so they make contact with the white out. Take the hood off. Put it on a bench. Drill the fist holes under neither with a 1/4" bit. Go through the first layer. The get a 1/16" bit and drill straight ! through to the top side of the hood.
Get a Dremil and open up the bottom, underneath hole, about the size of quarter. Be careful not to go through the top of the hood. Put the hood on and rest it on the pins. The pins should line up and you should be able to see the latch posts through the top 1/16 holes. If they are a little off, bend the post a little. Once they are hitting the 1/16" hole, use the Dremil to oblong the hole just a little so the latch pins pass through. Put the hood pins on and you'll see how much clearance you need to pass through the latch openings for the latch posts. Use the Dremil to adjust the hood latch post opening on top so they just come through the top of the hood and pass through the latch opening. Tape the latches in place on the hood so they don't move. Check your alignment of the latches on the top side of your hood before drilling the pilot holes to hold them down on the top of the hood. Once happy, then drill your pilot holes 1/32" bit for the top latch screws. Make sure you go deep enough. Put the screws in. Don't strip them. Just get them snug so they are tight against the top of your hood. Then do you final adjustments as to Latch Pin height. Once this is done, open the hood and lock the hood pin post in place with the bolts supplies with the hood pins on the support rail.
Remember, these are a safety add on so they don't need to be holding your hood so tight that you crack your hood from the stress. I still have use of my hood latch from inside the car, the safety latch under the hood and now hood pins. I don't see my hood ever flying off
No sweat....took me about 2 hours with being careful and going slow.
Well worth the money, time and effort.
Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will send you some pictures of where the holes are that you use on the upper support frame.
Good Luck.
Jim
So far I can honesty say it's one of the very best deals I've gotten NSX wise for a carbon fiber part of this nature and size.
You may have to...I did...
Open up the holes on both of your hood hinges on the car. You'll find 2 on each. You want them just a little bigger so you have some room for adjustment for how it sits once in place. Put the hood on, tighten the bolts just snug so you can move it around. Close it. Look at your seams and go from there moving it around. Once you find the spot, tighten up the hinge bolts. Do not over tighten.
There are 2 holes already where the pins are on top under the hood on the upper support beam. I enlarged those holes so they would accept the Sparco hood pins I used so that I could actually screw the latch post in. Leave them up about 3". Put some white out on both pins on top. Gently close your hood so they make contact with the white out. Take the hood off. Put it on a bench. Drill the fist holes under neither with a 1/4" bit. Go through the first layer. The get a 1/16" bit and drill straight ! through to the top side of the hood.
Get a Dremil and open up the bottom, underneath hole, about the size of quarter. Be careful not to go through the top of the hood. Put the hood on and rest it on the pins. The pins should line up and you should be able to see the latch posts through the top 1/16 holes. If they are a little off, bend the post a little. Once they are hitting the 1/16" hole, use the Dremil to oblong the hole just a little so the latch pins pass through. Put the hood pins on and you'll see how much clearance you need to pass through the latch openings for the latch posts. Use the Dremil to adjust the hood latch post opening on top so they just come through the top of the hood and pass through the latch opening. Tape the latches in place on the hood so they don't move. Check your alignment of the latches on the top side of your hood before drilling the pilot holes to hold them down on the top of the hood. Once happy, then drill your pilot holes 1/32" bit for the top latch screws. Make sure you go deep enough. Put the screws in. Don't strip them. Just get them snug so they are tight against the top of your hood. Then do you final adjustments as to Latch Pin height. Once this is done, open the hood and lock the hood pin post in place with the bolts supplies with the hood pins on the support rail.
Remember, these are a safety add on so they don't need to be holding your hood so tight that you crack your hood from the stress. I still have use of my hood latch from inside the car, the safety latch under the hood and now hood pins. I don't see my hood ever flying off
No sweat....took me about 2 hours with being careful and going slow.
Well worth the money, time and effort.
Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will send you some pictures of where the holes are that you use on the upper support frame.
Good Luck.
Jim
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John,
Sent you an email...
But figured I'd also post it here.
You could even get by without hood pins at all.
Mine fit very well and was very secure even before I put the pins on. The only reason I did was because I track my car so I want the extra protection.
Attached is the picture of where to mount the latch posts. This location will line up perfectly on the hood.
Sent you an email...
But figured I'd also post it here.
You could even get by without hood pins at all.
Mine fit very well and was very secure even before I put the pins on. The only reason I did was because I track my car so I want the extra protection.
Attached is the picture of where to mount the latch posts. This location will line up perfectly on the hood.
Attachments
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Jim borrowed that pic from our extensive library of installs. (actually it's from the candy cane car hood pin install)
Please note that ALL production "CF" or fiberglass or combo CF/FRP hoods are 2 piece "sandwiches" and can delaminate into those same 2 pieces after some years of exposure to the sun and vibration and etc and ALL composite hood manufactures recommend the installation of hood pins to make sure that the top does not fly off at some point and bounce off your windshield at 100MPH. etc.
Those of you that drive garage queens to and from the car show waxoffs might not really need to do that, but if you track the car etc it is recommended.
Actually, you sent that to me MJ :biggrin:
But Mark is right, the extensive library of installs he has on his site is an absolute treasure to be able to access.
Thanks MJ....
But Mark is right, the extensive library of installs he has on his site is an absolute treasure to be able to access.
Thanks MJ....
Does VIS make this in FRP or just carbon?:smile:
Difference before paint is 1.3 lbs or so. A member just posted that. As long as it's not heavier than oem, it should be all good because you also gain the added function of radiator cooling and better aerodynamic properties.
I didn't weigh them, but it seemed like more than 1.3 lbs.
baynsac
Guest
I have one, I will weigh it our tommorrow. Looks real nice and I am glad it fits well too; that was my only concern. Also is there any truth to not painting Carbon fiber because it doesn't look right? A body shop told me this and I have a hard time believing it. I want to paint it berlina black to go with the rest of the car.
i like these hood pins better...more of a stealth look.
http://www.deftracing.com/aerocatch_hood_pins/index.htm
similar to Top Secret hood pins but less than 1/2 the price
http://www.deftracing.com/aerocatch_hood_pins/index.htm
similar to Top Secret hood pins but less than 1/2 the price
The fit is really good considering the cost of the hood. Much better than I ever expected. There's no reason you can't paint it. I have painted over CF many times in the past and the pieces have come out great. Put it on first, you might just like the CF look...which I think would look great on a black car.
Those are very cool...Think I'll get a set just to check out.
Thanks for the post and link.
Thanks for the post and link.
Just carbon. (from them)
To really save a significant weight % over the OEM (since it is already aluminum) you would need a 100% CF bagged piece like the Procar or RTR units, and even then it will just be a 5-6lbs savings. Your car will have the same handling improvement through weigh reduction effect if you just go on a diet. :biggrin:
However hand layup CF/FRP combo hoods are the right price, and with behind the rad ducting they will enhance the cooling flow while also reducing the air pressure under the car...
LOL...are you related to MJ ?
He bags on me all the time about spell checking.
Lighter....
LOL.
I found the part to fit pretty well without reshaping, sanding or cutting.
Minor adjustments in placement are as close to 100% fit as far as I can tell.
He bags on me all the time about spell checking.
Lighter....
LOL.
I found the part to fit pretty well without reshaping, sanding or cutting.
Minor adjustments in placement are as close to 100% fit as far as I can tell.
liter? Do you mean lighter or litter?I wouldn't call it litter but the fitment needs some changing of the way you regard a body part as a 100 % fit. :wink:
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- 15 May 2004
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Nothing to be sorry about...Your post was great and funny. I laughed when I saw it. In fact I'm still laughing.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours....
No wait, your in Switzlerland...no Thanksgiving there...
Have a great day anyway !
Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours....
No wait, your in Switzlerland...no Thanksgiving there...
Have a great day anyway !
No, I'm not related to MJ. But it's good to know you got my joke on 'liter'.
Here ya go bud, I stumbled on it again:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showpost.php?p=904380&postcount=72
Well knock offs are what the prime world revolves around ya know. Ex:
Downforce, Procar, Rota, Vis, Seibon, GT-One, SOS, Dali, etc etc with the Type R hood being the most copied. Someone makes a copy of something.
Downforce, Procar, Rota, Vis, Seibon, GT-One, SOS, Dali, etc etc with the Type R hood being the most copied. Someone makes a copy of something.
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