Cams are one thing, don't forget to take some pictures on how you manage to slide out the rocker shafts insitu. Thanks!
Valve adjustment not needed, LMA's sticking...
- Thread starter Bravo
- Start date
I've done LMAs twice now and I can't imagine doing it with the engine in the car. Well unless you have an apparatus like in Mission Impossible and can hang over the car from the ceiling, instead of bending over the car the whole time.
Last year I did just a timing belt on my old man's car without removing the engine and my back was not happy about it.
Last year I did just a timing belt on my old man's car without removing the engine and my back was not happy about it.
I literally just finished replacing the LMA's (haven't even put the cams back in yet, only the rockers/shaft). Honda did an amazing job designing this car as there is just enough room to slide the rocker shafts out of the heads to remove the rocker assemblies, but not quite enough room to remove the shafts completely from the head.
Here's a quick list of things worth noting if you want to do your LMA's without removing the engine from the car.
- Need to remove the 3 coolant hoses going from the firewall to the engine. Probably a good idea to replace these anyway while your in there if they are original.
- It is difficult to remove the rocker shaft sealing plugs from the rear bank of the engine. There is very little wrench room.
- It is also fairly difficult to align the rocker arms to the shaft on the rear bank exhaust cam. The rest of the cams weren't much of a problem.
I only snapped a couple of pictures.
Here's a quick list of things worth noting if you want to do your LMA's without removing the engine from the car.
- Need to remove the 3 coolant hoses going from the firewall to the engine. Probably a good idea to replace these anyway while your in there if they are original.
- It is difficult to remove the rocker shaft sealing plugs from the rear bank of the engine. There is very little wrench room.
- It is also fairly difficult to align the rocker arms to the shaft on the rear bank exhaust cam. The rest of the cams weren't much of a problem.
I only snapped a couple of pictures.
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Posting in here because this is great information that I will be using soon enough.
I plan to drop the motor/transmission for TB/WP, coolant hoses, LMAs, and other maintenance items.
Originally wanted to do it in car, but figured I'd just take the extra time to do it out of car and be able to have access to everything for a good clean and assessment of anything else that needs to be addressed.
It's already been sitting for some time, so what's a little extra, lol.
Thanks to everyone for posting and contributing to this thread.
I plan to drop the motor/transmission for TB/WP, coolant hoses, LMAs, and other maintenance items.
Originally wanted to do it in car, but figured I'd just take the extra time to do it out of car and be able to have access to everything for a good clean and assessment of anything else that needs to be addressed.
It's already been sitting for some time, so what's a little extra, lol.
Thanks to everyone for posting and contributing to this thread.
thought I would bump this thread because my car just had a major with valve adjustment and the car really runs nice....some little rpm dips on off throttle or abrupt clutch engagement have resolved....So nice to have the sewing machine back:biggrin:
Just to add to the wisdom here, I did not find it too difficult to do this in situ:
Remove the VTEC solenoids, and the overflow bottle, disconnect the 3 coolant hoses from the firewall before you get started
Parts (in addition to timing belt)
4 aluminum crush washers for the hex plugs 12209-PR3-000
4 rubber o rings for the banjo dowel pins that go into tubes (91306-PJ4-000)
An M5-0.8 bolt like this to remove them. Also use a passenger side engine mount bolt to thread into the tubes themselves to pull out (free)
And 2 cam cap o rings (91308-PH9-000 aka 91302-GE0-000)
and 4 cam plugs (12513-PR7-A00)
and 4 cam seals (91213-PR7-A01)
and 12 replacement LMAs (14820-PCB-305)
And VTEC solenoid seals (2 each of 36172-PR3-005, 15825-PR3-005)
Late edit: I did this preventatively on my 94. All the old hydraulic LMAs passed the finger spring test, but the engine idled a little more tappetey than I remember it doing years ago. Since I was doing the cam seals anyways, this seemed like a good 'while you are in there'. The engine does idle quieter and smoother than did before, so I wonder if the hydraulic LMAs were 'good' but perhaps not as good as they once were.
Remove the VTEC solenoids, and the overflow bottle, disconnect the 3 coolant hoses from the firewall before you get started
Parts (in addition to timing belt)
4 aluminum crush washers for the hex plugs 12209-PR3-000
4 rubber o rings for the banjo dowel pins that go into tubes (91306-PJ4-000)
An M5-0.8 bolt like this to remove them. Also use a passenger side engine mount bolt to thread into the tubes themselves to pull out (free)
And 2 cam cap o rings (91308-PH9-000 aka 91302-GE0-000)
and 4 cam plugs (12513-PR7-A00)
and 4 cam seals (91213-PR7-A01)
and 12 replacement LMAs (14820-PCB-305)
And VTEC solenoid seals (2 each of 36172-PR3-005, 15825-PR3-005)
Late edit: I did this preventatively on my 94. All the old hydraulic LMAs passed the finger spring test, but the engine idled a little more tappetey than I remember it doing years ago. Since I was doing the cam seals anyways, this seemed like a good 'while you are in there'. The engine does idle quieter and smoother than did before, so I wonder if the hydraulic LMAs were 'good' but perhaps not as good as they once were.
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[MENTION=21961]M-P[/MENTION] you did this job engine-in?? Respect.
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