Upper A-arm removal, now totally destroyed.... Sooo... NSX for sale:

theman1990

theman1990

Experienced Member
Joined
16 October 2006
Messages
654
Location
Johnson City, TN
So i've been attempting to take this upper A-arm off to get Thom's camber kit put in it and the drivers one would NOT come off for the life of it (passenger came off with minimal swearing.) I broke two Harbor Freight ball-joint separators on it, ripping the boot wide open in the process. Now I got a THIRD more quality separator and went back to work. Finally after torquing it down as hard as I could, I tried to use the hammer tap method and was still not getting anything. Finally I pulled out the breaker bar as the forum suggested and leaned on it some more. Well this time the entire tool twisted off the spindle, bending the tie rod bolt in the process. So now I have a completely F#CKED rear suspension that I am not going to be able to afford to fix. There is no way I can see to get the NOW BENT bolt out of the spindle necessitating a new spindle, too.

So I have a now un-drivable NSX that I will not be able to afford to fix for a great while if at all. Quoted about $1700 just for the two parts, and STILL no way to get it to the Acura dealer since the bolt is bent and cracked (looks cracked).

Oh well, end rant and NSX driving.

Pics....

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So what exactly did you bend? The toe link? Toe link adjusting bolt in the middle of the link assembly? Pictures to explain please.

The only thing that would really cost you that much money there would be a bent upper or lower A arm because those are kinda tough to source. The rest of the parts are pretty cheap used here on prime.

I'm reading it over and over. Sounds like you just bent the bolt on the toe link that goes through the spindle. As long as the spindle is ok, you can always just cut off bolt with a cut off tool, then press it out. This would require a new toe link though obviously. Used, I think they can be found <$100.
 
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Contact Titanium Dave. See if he's come up with any break throughs on any ball joint replacement techniques yet. I remember several guys working on that project.

went back 1 year

see if this guy will part out the A arms
http://nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112557&highlight=upper+arm

http://nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111875&highlight=upper+arm

http://nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108031&highlight=upper+arm

BTW, killer prices on those arms on the last link...atleast I think so. I believe they should come with new ball joints already.
 
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First, take a deep breath while your making a rum and coke.
Then get ahold of "Larry B" here at prime and he'll get you sorted. If he can't then burn it and collect the insurance. Not really.
Second, there's a guy at "NSXCB" named Dirk in the "NSX Parts" section from Germany who has the repair parts. Just go to his thread and read.
E-mail usually works best to get hold of him. He'll take care of you and for a real fair price.
He's been M.I.A. for awhile but he's back and i'm sure he has the bits you need.
Next, have another rum and coke.
Further more, since you have maniaced it so far the lesson when you re-install the next one is, "USE ANTI-SEIZE!".
There's a penetrating fluid we use in aviation that's hands down the damnedest stuff i've ever come across. AREO-KROIL, in an orange spray can, get some and drown the little pr!ck in it and let it soak.
Not to mention, Have you tried any heat? The boot is already wasted so that shouldn't be a factor now. While it's under tension, apply heat, I don't think a propane torch will get hot enough but cheap to find out, go back to your hammer method. Should only take one good bashing. Be sure and use a heavy hamer for the inertia. Not a sledge but maybe a three pound hammer with a good solid bash.
If it doesn't work, have another rum and coke. If it does work call it a celebratory drink.
Also check with Tim at Ray Laks Acura and see if he can help. 1-888-RAY-LAKS. Stranger things have happened.

Cheers
nigel
 
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Thanks for searching those out Koolaid.... I was just about to start searching the for sale ads.... I guess if I can sell my rims that will be a start. Still no idea how to get the bolt out of the spindle though.
 
Yeah, I considered heat prior to the boot being ripped badly... I did soak it in PB blaster which usually is AMAZING for getting stuff loose.... The problem now is, with the bend in the bolt, I don't think I can get it through the hole, even if I DID break it loose! :(
 
Just a guess but you'll probably have to cut off the bent section of the ball joint then try to press it out again. Cut off saw, thin blade. Or small grinder, thin blade. Watch out for your eyeballs. Anyhow, I'd see what the pros here have to say before any chopping.

I couldn't find anything searching under various forms of "dirk ball joint"

Oh yeah, and not many people are aware of the alternative camber correction kit avail through dali. It does the opposite of the Ayotte. Ayotte fixes camber by pushing the top of the tire outward. Dali fixes camber by pulling the bottom of the tire inward. Ayotte replaces the two pivot pieces on the A arm. Dali replaces the single OEM camber correction cam on the lower beam. Ayotte require removing the upper A arm. Dali require dropping the lower beam. I would rather drop the lower beam.
 
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Yah I'd heard of Dali's but after some of the nightmare transactions, and the fact I was pulling the brakes off anyhow I figured what the hey I'll pull the uppers and get the camber correction kit while I'm at it... Fine lot of good THAT was...

Oh, and the third (and much sturdier) tool broke tonight when I gave it one last try after soaking it in PB Blaster all evening. This time the lynch pin snapped....
 
Not sure if "KooLaid" was refering to my post in his "dirk ball joint" reference but if so, "Dirk" is a guys name and he has a business of selling used NSX bits in Germany. He has the largest inventory of used and crashed NSXs in Europe and the U.K. He's been a great friend to all at NSXCB and beyond.
PB Blaster is surely good stuff but if you can find some Aero-Kroil it might work. Worth a try anyway. What have you got to lose?
Don't give up and have another rum and coke. If nothing else it'll make you laugh at your misfortune while we figure how to get it seperated.

Cheers
nigel
 
nigel said:
Not sure if "KooLaid" was refering to my post in his "dirk ball joint" reference but if so, "Dirk" is a guys name and he has a business of selling used NSX bits in Germany. He has the largest inventory of used and crashed NSXs in Europe and the U.K. He's been a great friend to all at NSXCB and beyond.
PB Blaster is surely good stuff but if you can find some Aero-Kroil it might work. Worth a try anyway. What have you got to lose?
Don't give up and have another rum and coke. If nothing else it'll make you laugh at your misfortune while we figure how to get it seperated.

Cheers
nigel
Click to expand...

I just couldn't find Dirk's thread.
 
Sorry to hear about that mate, Dirk is hard to get a hold off, but he has proved reliable before.

This makes my droping my rear diffuser and it breaking seem trivial!

Dali is reliable if paying with COD otherwise is a bit tricky.

I hope you can get it sorted soon.

BTW member MVM ( Maarten ) on this board just crashed his car and he is parting it out.

Cheers,

AR
 
Guys,

PBBlaster or the like is useless for this, don't bother. This is not rusted in place, it is a taper fit. Now admittedly some of these are just tough, or even impossible, but you need to stack the odds in your favor.

1. Forget about any of those useless cheap s..t tools. Get or borrow the Honda press for this: 07MAC-SL00100

2. Get a Service Manual and READ it.

3. On page 18-21 of the 1991 service manual, there are specific notes about how to do this, and they MUST be followed. (18-21 is the front suspension, but all the rules apply:))

4. After removing the cotter pin, you will loosen the nut. You MUST reinstall the nut as it says in the service manual. This is where this job has gone bad on you. The stud with the cotter pin holes is too weak alone to take the pressure. That is why they specify reinstalling the nut.

5. It is also very important that the pressure from the tool is applied EXACTLY square on the stud. This crap tool you used can not do that. In the service manual, using the Honda tool, it specifies you MUST have the two tool sections parrallel to each other, which is impossible with the type of tool you were using. The Honda tool has a parrallel adjuster, specifically for the purpose of getting the pressure in the correct direction.

With all that said, you will need to get a nut on the ball joint stud. You can cut the bent part off, then thread a nut on it. You may need to grind a nut down to the proper thickness so this all works for you.

The bottom line is this: You need to get enough pressure in the exact direction to get these off.

I recall the tool is about $100, filing/grinding is just a PITA, so don't throw out the baby with the bathwater, you do not need to sell the car:).

HTH,
LarryB
 
Yah I guess I'll end up buying one of the Honda tool's eventually... What about the Sear's craftsman one, just out of curiosity? At least the quality on those tends to be good...

Also I had removed the cotter nut and replaced it with a new M12x1.25 steel nut for that reason... Still didn't save it... The nut 'crushed' on one side when the tool spun off. :(
 
Here is a draft from a service bulletin: http://www.acuraworld.com/tsb/TSX/b90-027.pdf

BTW there are two tools for Acura models, one for the NSX as LarryB stated and one for all other Acuras. The tool ...0100 is for the NSX and about $140. :) Concerning the potential damage I think it's a very good investment.

One note: Honda recommends penetrating lubricant if needed. Is it useless, Larry?

theman1990 said:
Also I had removed the cotter nut and replaced it with a new M12x1.25 steel nut for that reason... Still didn't save it... The nut 'crushed' on one side when the tool spun off. :(
Click to expand...
Your tool is crap. Still not convinced (Sear's)? :wink: Get the Honda one. :)
 
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Told you "Larry B" would know. Stay with him and "it will be done".
As far as "Dirk",
Go to "NSXCB", (nsxclubbritain), you might have to register to be able to post.
It's a great lot of guys and you won't be sorry. Several of them joined here at Prime and you just don't know.
Just to look, go down, just like here on the forum page to "NSXParts". Click.
You'll see "Largest NSX parts in Europe". That's "Dirk" You should be able to make it from there.
As "AR99NSX", ("AR", Ary, on the nsxcb site) said, "mvm", (mvm's personal e-mail is on file) has just wadded up his car and is breaking it down as i'm getting some bits from him and he hasn't sold the suspension yet.
Last week before I told you to go to nsxcb I told him to get hold of "Dirk" that he might possibly buy what's left of his car when he gets done parting it out. You migh hurry before the bits you need are gone. You'll still be able to get them from "Dirk" but they might be a little more to cover his cost.

Cheers
nigel
 
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For any additional used suspension parts you may PM Ravi@umbrella or visit his used parts site. Just an FYI. Good luck.:wink:
 
Larry Bastanza said:
I recall the tool is about $100, filing/grinding is just a PITA, so don't throw out the baby with the bathwater, you do not need to sell the car:).
Click to expand...

I disagree. He must sell the car immediately. He must sell it to me immediately! I'll pay $10K for it immediately! :biggrin:
 
Hugh said:
If you were a Maiden fan, you'd understand. :smile:
Click to expand...

Maiden fan or not,two things came to mind gazing at your avatar 1) you like to read, and your favorite book is Horton hears a Hugh:wink: 2) you are the tela tubby that is only used for shows piped in to guantanomo:eek:
 
The number one lesson here , as stated by Larry , ALWAYS LEAVE THE NUT ON WHEN PRESSING ANY BALLJOINT .

Another thing , I would be very leery of appying heat to a forged aluminum suspension part.
 
Too late now, but can try adding another nut to the bolt and reduce the amount of thread exposed that does not have a nut to help protect the threads. Press it out a little bit at a time.
 

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