TW sensor part number?

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I got the wrong one. Can someone tell me what is the actual part number for the TW sensor? Yes I've tried searching but can't get the part number. Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks Daedalus and Drew. I lost that link due to harddisk failure last time. The packet number seems correct but the one on my car has bigger thread about 3/4'' and the one given was 1/2". The wrong one has TW-5 and 4D scribed on the side.
 
The description sounds like the '94 sensor. Larger threads, but the connector is the same.
Curious, did you test your old part to verify it's faulty?
 
It was tested was found faulty. I hope this is the only problem.
Daedalus said:
The description sounds like the '94 sensor. Larger threads, but the connector is the same.
Curious, did you test your old part to verify it's faulty?
 
I just realized I mis-read your other post. I thought the one that came out of the package had larger threads, and your car's sensor had smaller threads. Very interesting. I wonder if the parts list is incorrect? I had the same problem as you, but I assumed it was because my car was a '94, and I ordered a '91 sensor. Sounds like we both have brand new sensors in our garages that don't fit our cars. Fortunately for me, my local dealership stocked the right part. I will get the part number off the invoice when I get home.
 
The part # that fit my '94 is 37760-PH7-003. I bought it from a local dealer and I think I paid about $45.

If you're saying a part from the parts list doesn't fit your vehicle, but that a part from a different model year does, then there are at least a couple problems going on.
1. Why does the part not fit your '91?
2. If you do indeed need a sensor from a '94, then your method of testing the old sensor may have been invalid. The 2 sensors have very different temp-resistance characteristics. If the old one was open loop, then replace it, but if it didn't match the table in the manual, it may still be OK.
 
I got the TW sensor replaced. The dealership don't have it so I went to another car part shop and got the one they stock for Honda Legend. Identical part. I have the mechanic install it for me as well as bleed and refill some coolant. We pulled the clock fuse to reset the ECU. The car runs stronger than it was previously but after holding the RPM around 2K to 3K the CEL lits on. It doesn't effect the car performance but I could smell some fuel from the exhaust. I checked the trouble code this morning and got 1 and 2 indicating O2 sensors failure in both side of the engine. The sensors are new and I couldn't believe they failed so early. I will get the connectors check again for some looseness. Also the TCS yellow light is blinking 2 times.

Daedalus thanks for your input. It is always appreciated. Is there anything else I should be checking?
 
When you say the part is identical, you mean it has the same part number? If it's a different part number it could be different on the inside. You really need to use a multimeter to check resistances (unplugged) and voltages with the car running. Check the TW sensor, TPS, MAP. If the car is running rich it is either doing so voluntarily or involuntarily. Since it sounds like both banks are running rich, that would indicate it is more likely a voluntary condition.
Are the fuel injectors stock or aftermarket? What is the fuel pressure at idle?
I think your bad O2 sensors were caused by something else, but if they're all fouled up, they won't work, and thus they will keep things running rich.
 
If you are running rich, there will be shortage of oxygen and the computer might think you are running very lean. And dump even more fuel as a safety measure.

Driving for long periods in this rich condition can, and will, ruin your O2 sensors.

It seems that your initial mechanic monkey'd with some critical factory set adjustments on the intake system. It is incredibly unlikely that these adjustments, the ones marked with yellow paint, can be brought to spec outside of the factory.

My big question to you: How did you resolve the issues that your previous mechanic may have caused?
 
The car was running rich before the stupid mechanic tempered with the intake system. The car was running very rough after he touched it. Then I brought the car to my friend (who is also a mechanic) and he tried adjusting the intake the best as he can and it helps with the engine now running smoother. The only unsolved problem right now is tha the car still runs rich. The codes that are displaying now are the O2 sensors.

I wonder if using a sport air filter would help to minimise the rich fuel mixture.


5772Intake_1-med.JPG


5772Intake_2-med.JPG


drew said:
If you are running rich, there will be shortage of oxygen and the computer might think you are running very lean. And dump even more fuel as a safety measure.

Driving for long periods in this rich condition can, and will, ruin your O2 sensors.

It seems that your initial mechanic monkey'd with some critical factory set adjustments on the intake system. It is incredibly unlikely that these adjustments, the ones marked with yellow paint, can be brought to spec outside of the factory.

My big question to you: How did you resolve the issues that your previous mechanic may have caused?
 
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