track tires

I do not have rubbing issues other than turning the wheel at full lock doing U-turns. I change my street wheel/tire setup to R compounds regularly and inspect the wheel well. No rubbing issues. Here's another photo showing the loaded side of the car at Laguna...
By the way. How do I post large photo's instead of the thumbnails that I've been posting.






I am surprised given the picture you posted with the load on the left front. What camber setting do you have and what suspension? Have you inspected the fender liner (you can run your fingers under the fender edge and that should tell if you have rubbing or not)?
 

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By the way. How do I post large photo's instead of the thumbnails that I've been posting.

Upload your pics to your Prime Gallery and then copy and paste the URL of the gallery pic (right click under properties) with
immediately after. You can always use the image button when you post as well. Hope that helps!
 
I do not have rubbing issues other than turning the wheel at full lock doing U-turns. I change my street wheel/tire setup to R compounds regularly and inspect the wheel well. No rubbing issues. Here's another photo showing the loaded side of the car at Laguna...
By the way. How do I post large photo's instead of the thumbnails that I've been posting.


I am still baffled with your set up! You mean you are running 235, do not have a camber kit, car is not sitting too high based on pics, and coming down cork screw your left fender doesn't rub?!

Just curious, are pushing the car or just cruising :wink:
 
I am still baffled with your set up! You mean you are running 235, do not have a camber kit, car is not sitting too high based on pics, and coming down cork screw your left fender doesn't rub?!

Just curious, are pushing the car or just cruising :wink:
He's pushing it faster than you :wink:


....j/k i've never seen you drive. :biggrin:
 
Downforce made a wide front fender didn't they? Anyone try that?
 
Haha. "Pushing it" is a relative term. I sure feel like I'm pushing it, but in terms of Stuntman's speed, I may be cruising since he turned a 5+ second quicker laptime in my own car at Buttonwillow (before he had to pull over for his girlfriend to vomit from motion sickness... seriously).

I've only been to Laguna once but was able to turn a 1:50.xx. This however felt fast to me, but then again fast is relative.

I'm running 3.2 degrees of negative camber up front. I'm running Penske doubles and the car is lowered. No rubbing issues coming down the corkscrew. Erik Messley does my suspension. If you have any questions feel free to call him at (714) 713-9096. He's really good. I think Stuntman could vouch for how my setup handles...


I am still baffled with your set up! You mean you are running 235, do not have a camber kit, car is not sitting too high based on pics, and coming down cork screw your left fender doesn't rub?!

Just curious, are pushing the car or just cruising :wink:
 

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Haha. "Pushing it" is a relative term. I sure feel like I'm pushing it, but in terms of Stuntman's speed, I may be cruising since he turned a 5+ second quicker laptime in my own car at Buttonwillow (before he had to pull over for his girlfriend to vomit from motion sickness... seriously).

I've only been to Laguna once but was able to turn a 1:50.xx. This however felt fast to me, but then again fast is relative.

I'm running 3.2 degrees of negative camber up front. I'm running Penske doubles and the car is lowered. No rubbing issues coming down the corkscrew. Erik Messley does my suspension. If you have any questions feel free to call him at (714) 713-9096. He's really good. I think Stuntman could vouch for how my setup handles...

is nsx be able to adjust to 3.2 without any camber kit modification??
 
Haha. "Pushing it" is a relative term. I sure feel like I'm pushing it, but in terms of Stuntman's speed, I may be cruising since he turned a 5+ second quicker laptime in my own car at Buttonwillow (before he had to pull over for his girlfriend to vomit from motion sickness... seriously).

I've only been to Laguna once but was able to turn a 1:50.xx. This however felt fast to me, but then again fast is relative.

I'm running 3.2 degrees of negative camber up front. I'm running Penske doubles and the car is lowered. No rubbing issues coming down the corkscrew. Erik Messley does my suspension. If you have any questions feel free to call him at (714) 713-9096. He's really good. I think Stuntman could vouch for how my setup handles...


Wel, well, well, now the cat is out and we finally know why.

3.2 degrees of camber WILL make a difference and I can see why you may not rub.

Tuning by Erik is second to none especially on the Penske. I remember when he raced with Doug Hayashi - he was faster than Doug by the way LOL! I watched him at THill in 2003 and he kept fiddling with minor tweaks on the suspension to keep that edge:

"First in class in the OTC 7 tracks in 7 days Series driving a
supercharged Acura NSX
" Years: 2002, 2003


And 1:50:xx for a street legal NSX and your first time at Laguna is fast indeed. Congrats.
 
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I'm running 3.2 degrees of negative camber up front. I'm running Penske doubles and the car is lowered. No rubbing issues coming down the corkscrew. Erik Messley does my suspension. If you have any questions feel free to call him at (714) 713-9096. He's really good. I think Stuntman could vouch for how my setup handles...

Erik and I were supposed to install Penske's on my car several years ago. Then Mumford passed away a few weeks after and Erik kind of vanished from the usual methods of contact I had with him (phone and email). I hope he's doing much much better now.
 
Negatory (at least to my knowledge). To get 3.2 negative you'd need the CT Engineering Competition Bushings:

http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/160030.html

IIRC, the max neg camber you can get w/o the above is around 2.5.

Yes, I do have the Comptech camber bushings in order to get the 3.2 degrees. I also have the non compliance toe link and rear beam, non compliance front pivot clamps and special damper mounts from Erik Messley. He wants to make me a custom sway bar as well since he's such a perfectionist.
 
Erik and I were supposed to install Penske's on my car several years ago. Then Mumford passed away a few weeks after and Erik kind of vanished from the usual methods of contact I had with him (phone and email). I hope he's doing much much better now.

Erik is doing great minus the fact that he was recently hit by a speeding motorist while riding his bicycle (this is the second time in his life this has happened. The first time he was bed ridden for weeks and almost paralyzed).

Erik's career is going well. I believe he's working as car chief on a few SCCA and NASA cars and I believe an LMP2 car as of last year. Busy guy with an IQ through the roof. His resume is incredible:

Erik's resume from 5 years ago: www.curecf.com/ErikDriverProfile2004b.pdf
Great emotional story about Erik Messley and Paul Mumford here:http://www.nsxfiles.com/mumford.htm
 
235/40/17 is close to 620mm diameter. Sure they will rub sometimes.

Personnaly, I run 240/610/17 slicks on 17x8 ET35 rims. With ~2.0 to 2.5 camber and not far from 9.0 caster, they rub slightly in the inside at full lock. And my car is lowered as you can see on this pic :

nsx_2009_03.JPG

Pure Sex! Im looking to run a similar looking setup
 
Larry
Well, I think I figured out exactly what I'm going to do so I can lower my car again without rubbing with my 235 fronts and still retain my fender liners. Originally, I was going to roll my fenders and take the liners out.

I figure with a combination of the Downforce front fenders and the Comptech camber bushings, I will no longer need to be 4x4'ing. I can't even put my street rims back on the car because the gap looks so nasty.
This picture sold me on the wider front fenders

2406801818_0302cddc1c_o.jpg
 
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Matt- I also considered the wider front fenders as well (best option). I actually have a set of GruppeM fender wells available, but will wait to see if the camber kit resolves my issues.
 
Reviving an old thread and back to topic of tire ..........

I was at THill yesterday and talked to the guy running the AIM (Franchise) tire shop. He said the RA's optimal track psi is about 38 - something we pretty much knew (between 36-38) but for Hoosiers' optimal hot track psi is 32! That caught me by surprise - this even after asking what car I drove and the weight distribution.

Also, he noted the RA1 will have more "consistent" performance over its life even with repeated heat cycles as the degradation is not that dramatic compared to the Hoosier.

Sadly, I was at the track on my OEM Bridgestone tires again - they seem to like to heat cycle :tongue:
 
Also, he noted the RA1 will have more "consistent" performance over its life even with repeated heat cycles as the degradation is not that dramatic compared to the Hoosier.
This sounds like sales speak for: "Our tire is slower, but constantly slower" :wink:
Sorry I missed all the fun at THill, H. Wish I was there but my car's back under the knife at D/A. Hope to be back on track in July/August.

Those guys at AIM did the same job of convincing me that the Toyo R888 is "more consistent than the Hoosiers". Last month, I tried them both back to back at Sears Point with you. Granted, the Toyos's were towards the end of their heat cycled life span (7) but according to AIM that's no problem, right? Wrong. For the 3rd session I switched to the new Hoosier R6's and I was running consistently 4 seconds per lap faster. That was on stickers tires, no break in.

In the 4th session in light rain, I was less than a second off my best lap times in the dry.

I learned 3 things that day:

(1) My car's set-up works great in the wet
(2) The Hoosiers R6 is 4 seconds per lap faster than the Toyo R888
(3) Never buy the sales guy's BS

YMMV :biggrin:
 
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LOL! I didn't fall for his sales pitch but I was curious about the Hossiers' optimal psi. What are you running them at?

I agree, there was a big difference when I switched from RA1 to Hoosier R6 - and I ran them at 36/38 psi too.
 
lol! I didn't fall for his sales pitch but i was curious about the hossiers' optimal psi. What are you running them at?

I agree, there was a big difference when i switched from ra1 to hoosier r6 - and i ran them at 36/38 psi too.

36/38
 
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