Tips on tracking in the rain

Joined
21 February 2008
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1,465
Location
Nor Cal
How are you guys adjusting your driving/car when the track gets soaking wet?

My past experiences tracking in bad weather has been quite disappointing. In light rain, R-comp tires (H-R6) hold up fine until you hit a patch of standing water and begin to hydroplane. Then switching to street tires didn't help either as I had to reduce speed because the tires felt like breaking loose from under me (conti-contactsport3). Do they make a competition R-tire for the rain?

Isolated thunderstorms forecasted on this weekend's trackday, but this won't keep me away. So what should I do different to keep my car on the track?
 
What I do at a wet track day: street tires,or R's with some tread depth.My out lap I explore the track esp on the straights,look for the standing/streaming water.I accelerate and brake abruptly on the straights testing the grip.I choose certain corners that allow some safety ie good runoof /site lines to explore at what pace the tires loose grip.Most of all I take it easy,allow anyone to pass and try to stay away from "trains" of cars.Also If it is pouring I pack a towel at the back seat base to absorb all the water that runs down the plastic if the group I'm running with requires open windows.
 
knowing you are in N. Cal, some of the tips from northern area doesn't help. As like the hwys in Cali, you guys don't see too much rain all year, there's lot of oil accumulated on track surface. I heard the first rain made the track as slick as light snow....

other than that, Dunlop Z1 Star spec is extremely good in the rain... I had driven full tread RA1 in pouring rain, and it's amazing. Can't say the same about the NT01.

Oh, if you are like most of us who took the wiper away, either bring an extra bottle of rain X or remember to put your wiper back.

Other than that, slow down and enjoy!!! Not sure about your current set up, my nsx "ALWAYS" had excellent traction in wet. Even before I had the GT wing. The lack of power steering really gives you an edge at limit of adhesion.
 
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I assume you are rim-shotting the turns and driving pretty much the opposite of the dry line, aren't you? If not, try that.
Also, brake earlier and lighter and make all your inputs gentler...
BTW, Glad makes some huge zip-lock bags for storage that are great for storing your gear in if you don't have access to the tech building or timing tower.
 
I loved my OEM Yok's in the rain. Plenty of tread is a must.

Also, SMOOTH INPUTS!!! Smooth, smooth, smooth.

Did I mention smooth? :wink:

Smooth on the gas. Corner exit is the most treacherous spot in my opinion. Too much gas and you will go around in a heartbeat.

+1 on the RA-1 full tread.
 
So, how'd it go Doc?

First time running at Reno-Fernley Raceway (4.1 mile track) on street tires. Thunderstorm + hail balls came in hard after lunch closing the track down, so I trailered it out of there.

Only spun out once on the first session because I didn't see the blind downward turn ahead (or just going too hot as I forgot how to drive on the street tires). Too much gas!!!

Lesson: Not a good idea to run street tires with BBK as the street tires were no match for the Stoptechs. Better to have ran the R-comps "in full thread" even in light rain for max. grip. No point is driving in heavy rain anyways when your speed is cruising.
 
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Larry, I suspect the lesson has more to do with using XP10 pads on a cold day at a track that you are not familiar, and going too hot blindly ........ than Stoptech BBK with street tires ........ :wink:

It is all about balance; more is not necessarily better :tongue:
 
[QUOTE more is not necessarily better :tongue:[/QUOTE]

Hrant, I agree. You should all follow my example as I exemplify the meaning of what "less is more" is all about! Kip:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 
How are you guys adjusting your driving/car when the track gets soaking wet?

For thunderstorm / hail conditions I typically setup for full soft and have it under-steer like a pig. I prefer the car to be predictable so I don't kill myself. My fastest wet times are often a corollary to my confidence level in my setup. In a club context, few are capable of extracting from, nor would appreciate a vehicle that is difficult to control and/or exhibits a tendency toward snap over-steer for example, and the NSX is certainly capable of biting you.

I'll disconnect the rear sway bar. I'll set the rebound to full soft. I'll setup for maximum down-force, and set the angle of attack on the rear wing and diffuser to max. Typically I'll run my pressures low so as to get the tires up to temp quickly, but I may bump them up if hydroplaning is a problem. If you want to tune for the wet like a pro, then have a tire temp probe. If all this sounds too complicated or it is a new car and you are not sure- then got TCS? EPS? ABS? ESP? AWD? Auto-Pilot? Leave every switch with an acronym in the on position and you'll live. :biggrin:

On a serious note, while competition rains are available, all things considered I say +1 on the full tread RA1's, or even a set of street tires like the BFG's are fine as well. I still use the Bridgestone's myself.

Last on the setup- often overlooked is the most cheap/simple: visibility. You can't go fast if you can't see anything. I'll use the Rain X and a fresh wiper blade (like 8$) and sometimes ditch my visor if it fogs due to my breathing.



Now to what really counts. As to the driving- here is my initial disclaimer: a high speed wet road course with an expensive late model exotic is not the proper place to learn basic car control skills. A wet skid pad is. Then move on.

Feel confident? Then if you are not FI you should be able to do full throttle right out of the gate on the straight-aways, even on dead cold tires. + 1 on the smooth inputs, and certainly be cautious, but by the same token you need to stay on game and keep your tire temps up. Paranoia is your enemy. Keep the car sliding so it becomes predictable and doesn't bite you unexpectedly. Focus on what the car is really doing and communicating to you right now, and stop worrying about what it could be doing.

Mitigation- ABS is your friend. Prioritize the corners. Which ones won't ask you for a new car? Think about the details. How far at a given speed will your momentum carry you on over the wet grass in Turn X? Those are the things to be thinking about in pre-grid. That's where you are going to push it. That's where you are going to stack your chips.

To the line. Stay off the walls where water/leaves often pool, stay off the FIA curbing, and don't do moronic things to upset the car. The wet line is the line where the traction is. Watch for the seams in the pavement, crowns for drainage, or areas where the traction can change rapidly. If it is really coming down, you might not be able to see it; so you have to know these course details before you go out. Keep your attention at maximum. Conditions can change fast out there; so what you did on the last lap might not work on the next lap. Trust your corner workers. Their could be hail or a pile-up around the next blind corner. Maybe they are calling the session?

Strategy. Driving in the wet is about patience and consistency. A race is always greater than any one lap. Don't get sucked into a sprint and pile into the first corner of the first lap- that's for amatures. Usually, you are going to have to work for those positions and pick off the cars one by one (or seven at a time in the case of Howard Allen's SCCA Ground school :wink:). Push yourself to claim that extra foot here and that extra foot there. Nose in that extra little bit under turn-in. I am not asking for the impossible or to take a ridiculous risk, just give me that one extra half a car length under braking on every lap. It's the easiest time you will ever get.

Finally, as to the race craft- keep your competitors off balance. If you are leading, then brake checking the hell out of them to psych them out is a tried and true technique. Use your rooster tail to your advantage so they can't see anything. By the other token, if you are following then ride them hard, get them focusing on you, and get them to screw up and spin out.

Are you scared of banging up your six figure car on a wet course? Well they probably are to. Use that as a weapon to your advantage. Show them who wants it more. Present yourself strongly. You want to demoralize them on the pass so they don't even think about trying to hang with you. Don't show any weakness- and they will go back to running their slow laps.

Hope that helps.

My 0.02
 

Wow, and that doesn't look like there was much water on the track.

I have tracked the NSX in a full downpour that forced practically everyone to go home. It just left me and an M5 to enjoy the day. I found the NSX to be secure and predictable in VERY wet conditions. (Again, with plenty of tread and SMOOTH INPUTS)
 
I'm a firm believer in doing at least one full wet day,if your hpde gets rained on.Of course once you have that under your belt then you have an excuse for pussing out in the future:smile:
 
I was told to increase your tire pressure about 4-5 lbs. I haven't been in the rain with this car so I don't know this for sure - but this info came from an well informed instructor that I do know. Happy Motoring!
 
Re: Visual and seat of the pants clues

I don't think I've seen pavement reflection fully addressed;

shiny=slick; dull=less slick.

The traditional advice is to simply stay off the dry or racing line. But while that is a good starting point, as you get better, it's also important to look and feel for where grip is best; it may be where you least expect it. The more laps you can get in a wet session, the more you'll just sense where the better grip is.

Compared to dry track control, it's more art than science.
 
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