Timing belt last drive?
- Thread starter rbarr17
- Start date
How frequently has the car been driven in the past ten years? I doubt you will find someone who is going to tell you it’s okay, since it’s due for replacement according to Acura. A lot of us would go for it (I would), knowing the risk is a $10k+ engine rebuild.
Chances are you'll make it back fine but why take that chance to save a little $$$? Have it done, then enjoy the drive back home without worry. Peace of mind is worth it.
Where is it located in CA now, and where will it be on the East coast? If it's located near Autowave, Ramon, or I'm sure a few others in CA, I would go ahead and have them replace it before the trip, especially if you don't have any NSX experts located where you live.
If you're not going to change the TB yourself, that might factor into your decision.
If you're not going to change the TB yourself, that might factor into your decision.
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Car is in los angeles and will drive to atlanta, ill be doing the work when i make it back and the reason for the prompt drive is the time and money savings involved in waiting for me to handle it you know...
Car has been driven about 30-40k since the job was done in 07
Well then, if a potential $5k DIY engine rebuild cost (or $10k to have someone else do it) doesn't scare you, I'd take the chance.
If the previous owner delayed that important TB service for so long, I would be concerned about the rest of the car, particularly the cooling system and A/C since you're going to test those on your hot drive back.
If the previous owner delayed that important TB service for so long, I would be concerned about the rest of the car, particularly the cooling system and A/C since you're going to test those on your hot drive back.
You should be ok. See this post from Kaz on the interval. People act like these things are made of glass and will break even if slightly over the limit. In reality, there are plenty of NSXs out there driving on 20+ year old timing belts. My brother's belt snapped on his Integra after almost 300,000 miles. I would inspect the timing cover pieces and gaskets- if they are put together correctly and not missing/pinched, chances are the belt is protected and not contaminated. I would just drive the car gently and stay out of VTEC. Don't stress the belt. If it does go on you, then it's just bad luck. Dave is right about cooling though- check those hoses, especially the main ones in the front bay and the three main ones in the engine bay!
And the coolant expansion tank in the engine compartment. If it's OEM and old they are prone to leaking at the seam.
Good find on Kaz's TB change recommendation Honcho. I hadn't seen that before and will heed his advice. I'll probably go for a 9-10 year /60k mileage change period too.
Interesting I don't see the old kevlar-reinforced PowerEnterprise's offering anymore. It looks like they may have gone out of business?
Oh, when I did my TB change I cleaned a lot of residual gunk off my cam and crank gear teeth. The rubber really does degrade over time and it is the tooth degradation you really have to worry about... second is the belt stretching and breaking... like Kaz said.
Good find on Kaz's TB change recommendation Honcho. I hadn't seen that before and will heed his advice. I'll probably go for a 9-10 year /60k mileage change period too.
Interesting I don't see the old kevlar-reinforced PowerEnterprise's offering anymore. It looks like they may have gone out of business?
Oh, when I did my TB change I cleaned a lot of residual gunk off my cam and crank gear teeth. The rubber really does degrade over time and it is the tooth degradation you really have to worry about... second is the belt stretching and breaking... like Kaz said.
When I did the full service on my car last summer I was able to secure a Kevlar belt from Science of Speed.
Unless my search capabilities really suck, they don't advertise them for sale anymore.
Looked for myself and I couldn't find it listed either. Maybe I have the last Kevlar belt known to man?
I bought my /94 in November /09 and changed TB/WP then. I've had it almost 9 years and put close to 35,000 miles on it. There are two NSX master techs that work exclusively on the car who between them have over 50 years of experience. The /94 maintenance schedule calls for belt replacement at 6 years and a specified mileage (I forget exactly -- could be 60,000 miles, which is well beyond the number of miles I have driven the car). I asked both of these fine gentlemen at the 6 year anniversary of my ownership (car then had been driven 25,000 miles since TB/WP replacement) and they felt it quite safe to use the later years NSX interval which I believe is something along the lines of 8 years/90,000 miles or even go a little beyond the 8 years given the low mileage. Having said the foregoing, the car is driven relatively gently and does not spend a lot of time in VTEC or near redline.
My view is that if you know the car/prior owner and history and car has had an easy life meaning well maintained and although may have been driven in a spirited manner, hasn't been beat on/spent its entire life in VTEC/at redline, chances are it is safe to drive home. On the other hand, if in doubt I would play it safe and either ship car home or have the job done before embarking on a long trip.
One other piece of advice for what it is worth -- when I bought my /94 in Phoenix and drove it home to MI (and yes, I had the belt done in PHX), I looked at the rear tires and since they looked OK with sufficient tread I figured I'd make it home and buy new tires in due course. What I forgot was the melt-away rear tire issue on the NSX especially if the more aggressive (early years) alignment settings were used. Long story short I had an unscheduled stop/layover on way home dealing with the hassle of sourcing new rear tires. Believe me, an NSX with near treadles rear tires in the wet throws a "code brown" alarm. I guess the RE010s on the car were old and probably a bit dry. The alignment setting was aggressive and the road surfaces in AZ and NM were somewhat abrasive. As I was driving through some rain the rear of the car felt quite loose. We stopped for gas and to our horror the tread on the rear tires had almost completely melted away. So, one more thing to check before your trip -- depth of tread, age of tires and would not hurt to make sure that car is properly aligned.
Best of luck.
My view is that if you know the car/prior owner and history and car has had an easy life meaning well maintained and although may have been driven in a spirited manner, hasn't been beat on/spent its entire life in VTEC/at redline, chances are it is safe to drive home. On the other hand, if in doubt I would play it safe and either ship car home or have the job done before embarking on a long trip.
One other piece of advice for what it is worth -- when I bought my /94 in Phoenix and drove it home to MI (and yes, I had the belt done in PHX), I looked at the rear tires and since they looked OK with sufficient tread I figured I'd make it home and buy new tires in due course. What I forgot was the melt-away rear tire issue on the NSX especially if the more aggressive (early years) alignment settings were used. Long story short I had an unscheduled stop/layover on way home dealing with the hassle of sourcing new rear tires. Believe me, an NSX with near treadles rear tires in the wet throws a "code brown" alarm. I guess the RE010s on the car were old and probably a bit dry. The alignment setting was aggressive and the road surfaces in AZ and NM were somewhat abrasive. As I was driving through some rain the rear of the car felt quite loose. We stopped for gas and to our horror the tread on the rear tires had almost completely melted away. So, one more thing to check before your trip -- depth of tread, age of tires and would not hurt to make sure that car is properly aligned.
Best of luck.
Good advice. I hopped in my newly-purchased NSX near the Mexico border about 15 years ago and drove it straight home to CT.
That was a fun trip and the car worked great!
That was a fun trip and the car worked great!
When I replaced my timing belt at 100k miles it was the original one from 1993 in 2008. None of the previous 4 owners knew or cared about it.
It looked brand new. As in put it in the package and get my $$$ back.
When I replaced my timing belt at 100k miles it was the original one from 1993 in 2008. None of the previous 4 owners knew or cared about it.
It looked brand new. As in put it in the package and get my $$$ back.
Since my engine build I now have the 300% stronger blue belt that was used in the GT racing.
Can't seem to find it anymore.
But this is the next best upgrade over OEM at 200% stronger: https://www.vividracing.com/-p-1507...FZbRc2yp_hjffdLBltX1tQzxFbg96LAMaAqvkEALw_wcB
Can't seem to find it anymore.
But this is the next best upgrade over OEM at 200% stronger: https://www.vividracing.com/-p-1507...FZbRc2yp_hjffdLBltX1tQzxFbg96LAMaAqvkEALw_wcB
TODA has upgraded T231 timing belts.
http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/product/belt/honda.html
Beware some of the T231's have been on the shelf for +20 years. There appear to be no DOM codes on the belts either from Honda or Gates.
/The circle is now complete, I purchased an NSX near ATL and drove it back to Los Angeles about 20 years ago. Awesome road trip, right out of a movie. May the road be with you.
http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/product/belt/honda.html
Beware some of the T231's have been on the shelf for +20 years. There appear to be no DOM codes on the belts either from Honda or Gates.
/The circle is now complete, I purchased an NSX near ATL and drove it back to Los Angeles about 20 years ago. Awesome road trip, right out of a movie. May the road be with you.
I would drive it. The recommendation of 10 years is very conservative in my opinion. If you want to go down the rabbit hole of what may fail on this trip, there are a bunch of other components to take into consideration that are more likely to leave you stranded between LA and ATL:
- Main Relay (fails when hot)
- Coolant hoses (there are about 20 on this car)
- Other general maintenance items not specific to the NSX
I would either have a major service done, then drive it back to ATL with total peace of mind OR don't do anything and have a AAA card handy in case anything happens.
- Main Relay (fails when hot)
- Coolant hoses (there are about 20 on this car)
- Other general maintenance items not specific to the NSX
I would either have a major service done, then drive it back to ATL with total peace of mind OR don't do anything and have a AAA card handy in case anything happens.
