Those that are running 3+ front camber...

[CL65 Captain]

Having my Comptech camber bushing installed for the front next week. Just wondering how much of a difference you noticed going from 1.5 - 1.7 deg (max I could get) of camber in the front to 3 deg? Was it a noticeable improvement?

I'm running 235/40/17 Nitto NT01s, JRZ 600/500 and it seems like the car is understeering mid corner and track out. The left front is definitely rolling over with excessive outside wear. Hope going to 3 deg front will help out.

 

[asylum]

Tested the XP10 one week after you and I have also the same project concerning my front camber (outside wear of my front tires). Give us a feedback !

 

[Hrant]

Prior to the camber kit, I too had wear on the outside of the front tires RA1 235/40/17 and running at no more that 36 psi hot. My camber back then was about -1.7 too.

We shall see if the camber kit helps in the long run. I used only the top half of the Comptech/CTEngineering camber kit with -2.5 alignment since this is still a street driven car :wink:

 

[CL65 Captain]

Prior to the camber kit, I too had wear on the outside of the front tires RA1 235/40/17 and running at no more that 36 psi hot. My camber back then was about -1.7 too.

We shall see if the camber kit helps in the long run. I used only the top half of the Comptech/CTEngineering camber kit with -2.5 alignment since this is still a street driven car :wink:

Why only the top half?

I plan on going 3 deg F and 2.6 R.

 

[Hrant]

Why only the top half?

I plan on going 3 deg F and 2.6 R.

50% of my driving is still street pimping :biggrin:

 

[NSXDreamer2]

I too had wear on the outside of the front tires

+3! actually i have the problem in rear too.

The only compromise I heard from my miata buddy was that his car got poor traction in the wet...

That's the only thing I am worrying about as my nsx is quite a weapon whenever it rains.

 

[nsxnut]

+3! actually i have the problem in rear too.

The only compromise I heard from my miata buddy was that his car got poor traction in the wet...

That's the only thing I am worrying about as my nsx is quite a weapon whenever it rains.

True. Seemed more skiddish in the wet.

 

[Ponyboy]

Having my Comptech camber bushing installed for the front next week. Just wondering how much of a difference you noticed going from 1.5 - 1.7 deg (max I could get) of camber in the front to 3 deg? Was it a noticeable improvement?

I'm running 235/40/17 Nitto NT01s, JRZ 600/500 and it seems like the car is understeering mid corner and track out. The left front is definitely rolling over with excessive outside wear. Hope going to 3 deg front will help out.

I'm sure you'll notice a huge difference in front end cornering grip. Have you taken tread temps with a probed pyrometer across the width of the tread surface? That'll give you an indication of the best camber and caster to run.

You mentioned understeering mid corner. How much caster are you running?

 

[CL65 Captain]

I'm sure you'll notice a huge difference in front end cornering grip. Have you taken tread temps with a probed pyrometer across the width of the tread surface? That'll give you an indication of the best camber and caster to run.

You mentioned understeering mid corner. How much caster are you running?

Both Caster and Camber are maxed out. Camber 1.5 and Caster 9.

Haven't taken temps. However the rear tires wore down bald completely evenly. Right front looked to have a bit more outside wear. Left front had LOTS of outside wear and the inside was hardly worn. Track runs clockwise so most turns are to the right. I am going to actually set it up with slightly more camber in the left front than the right front.

I have been trying to find out the min & max range if I install the top only bushings vs top/bottom. I would like to have the ability to go back to some kind of reasonable camber (-1 would be fine) if I choose without the labor of removing the bushings. I have emailed and called Comptech and haven't heard from them. Nice customer service, huh?

 

[nsxnut]

Both Caster and Camber are maxed out. Camber 1.5 and Caster 9.

Haven't taken temps. However the rear tires wore down bald completely evenly. Right front looked to have a bit more outside wear. Left front had LOTS of outside wear and the inside was hardly worn. Track runs clockwise so most turns are to the right. I am going to actually set it up with slightly more camber in the left front than the right front.

I have been trying to find out the min & max range if I install the top only bushings vs top/bottom. I would like to have the ability to go back to some kind of reasonable camber (-1 would be fine) if I choose without the labor of removing the bushings. I have emailed and called Comptech and haven't heard from them. Nice customer service, huh?

I have the camber kit. For the track The car is as low as possible.
Front's ware evenly and the backs the inside edge will be the first to go.

I have 9.8 deg caster same both sides no offset for road crown. Steering is a little heavy but predictable.
I suspect I have more than -3 deg camber in the front.
The car is Absolutely Wonderful on the track. By far the biggest improvement was to lower the car.
"Thank you Kip!" We dropped it about an inch at the track one day. This Transformed the car.

When I get home from the track and take off the Hoosiers I raise the front up .75-1 in on the front.
Only takes a min. I have the shocks marked where to lower it back to :smile:.
I have the tie rods shimmed for bump steer so the toe should change.
My commute is short and I don't drive it to much on the street.

 

[stuntman]

Why only the top half?

I plan on going 3 deg F and 2.6 R.

Sounds good to me.


NEVER set your car or let someone convince you to set an offset for road crown. Just make them even R-L unless you know what you're doing/work with a race shop to have an offsetted setup for a particular track you are going to. For the most part, offsetting is rarely used and for DE use, IMO shouldn't be worried about.

 

[CL65 Captain]

I had Bill Braucksick at Performance Alignment in Cincy install my bushings and setup the car.

Here is what he did:

Front:
Camber: -3.1 Left / -2.5 Right
Caster: 8.3 Left / 8.4 Right
Total Toe: -2.6mm

Rear:
Camber: -2.7 Left / -2.3 Right
Total Toe: 2.4mm

Let me explain a little. Bill has been on the crews of Trans-Am, Formula One, IMSA, GTP, Can-AM and AMLS teams. Bill is probably one of the best chassis guys in the country. Bill asked me what tracks I was driving. I told him just Putnam Park this year. So I left the setup to him. I asked him about the split camber L/R. He responded, "trust me - go try it and then call me".

He knows how to setup a car and he knows Putnam Park, so now the only thing to do is test it out, take tire temps (yes, I finanly bought a real pyrometer) and take the info back to Bill.

 

[RStom - Hungary]

I had Bill Braucksick at Performance Alignment in Cincy install my bushings and setup the car.

Here is what he did:

Front:
Camber: -3.1 Left / -2.5 Right
Caster: 8.3 Left / 8.4 Right
Total Toe: -2.6mm

Rear:
Camber: -2.7 Left / -2.3 Right
Total Toe: 2.4mm

Let me explain a little. Bill has been on the crews of Trans-Am, Formula One, IMSA, GTP, Can-AM and AMLS teams. Bill is probably one of the best chassis guys in the country. Bill asked me what tracks I was driving. I told him just Putnam Park this year. So I left the setup to him. I asked him about the split camber L/R. He responded, "trust me - go try it and then call me".

He knows how to setup a car and he knows Putnam Park, so now the only thing to do is test it out, take tire temps (yes, I finanly bought a real pyrometer) and take the info back to Bill.

Hi,
Any feedback? How was it on the track? I just woundering with such a big toe out in the front....?

 

[sparky]

thought I'd bump this old thread ... I'm seriously considering the CT Engineering camber kit via Driving Ambition. My car is 95% street / 5% track so I'm interested in the suggestion in this thread to only install in parts into top suspension arm, which I expect would give me -1 to -3 degree range (as opposed to full kit which I think provides -2 to -4 degrees). Any feedback appreciated.

On a related note, I see suggestions this also affects bump steer setting ? Not sure exactly how this works, hoping someone can explain ... and recommend best product (s) ...

 

[CL65 Captain]

Don't do it if you are 95% street. The max you should be able to get stock and lowered is -1.5 and thats good enough for a mostly street car.

I did the Comptech and regret it as the min amount I can get now is -2 and I'm not tracking like I use to. It will cost me a couple hundred to put the oem back and align.

For a street car I would NOT recommend doing this.

 

[sparky]

I'm really not concerned about extra tyre wear. I've been running -2 degrees street use (i.e OEM maxed) for several years and it doesn't chew my tyres out excessively, partly because it is compensated with suitable toe.

I want to go a little more camber for two reasons, one is occassional track use the other is my tyres are just rubbing inner fender when loaded up. This is a side effect of fitting Stoptech BBK which forced the need for spacers. So i reckon the camber kit and -2.5 degrees would solve this issue. If my tyres wear a bit more, so be it.

thoughts ... ?

 

[Tangoman]

Running -2 to -3 deg of camber won't hurt tires too badly unless you are running something close to the standard toe spec.

You would normally want a bit of negative toe, but with that kind of camber I would advise against it if tire wear is your concern.

With low-profile tires you are probably running, steering response won't be an issue.

 

[asylum]

I was wondering if it is possible to install these non-centric bushings only at the top or the bottom (and keep the stock centered bushing at the other side), which would lead to an intermediate camber increase. I have the camber kit and I can not get less than -3.5 °. So be aware.

 

[CB72]

I was wondering if it is possible to install these non-centric bushings only at the top or the bottom (and keep the stock centered bushing at the other side), which would lead to an intermediate camber increase. I have the camber kit and I can not get less than -3.5 °. So be aware.

This is exactly what I did:smile:
I used only the top off-center bushings.
I did it for two reasons: get the camber at -2° and get my tires inboard of the fenders

 

[sparky]

This is exactly what I did:smile:
I used only the top off-center bushings.
I did it for two reasons: get the camber at -2° and get my tires inboard of the fenders

Excellent... did you install top or bottom only, and what are the min/max cambers you can now choose from?

 

[CB72]

Excellent... did you install top or bottom only, and what are the min/max cambers you can now choose from?

As I mentionned, I installed only the top bushings to pull the top of the wheel inboard.
I don't know how far the settings will go but I started with less than -1° to currently -2°15'.

 

[Coz]

I have a set I'm getting ready to install.

I don't want to use both upper and lower either. Still drive my car on the street quite a bit. But I need more negative camber for sure. I'm killing the outsides of my NT-01's.
Because I have the widebody and running 275's up front, I had to rasie the car more than I would have liked to keep from continually destroying my front fender lips during hard cornering.

I can't get anymore than 1.4 negative at present, but looking at tire wear and temps, I believe 2.0 to 2.2 would be enough to get even wear and temps.

Question I have is what's best to install, the uppers or the lowers ?
Why ?

Would appreciate some feed back...Thanks.

As I mentionned, I installed only the top bushings to pull the top of the wheel inboard.
I don't know how far the settings will go but I started with less than -1° to currently -2°15'.

 

[sparky]

in my case its definitely the uppers, I need to pull wheel inboard to stop tyres just touching the guard over bumps. And I want a bit more camber but not full track spec.

 

[CB72]

I have a set I'm getting ready to install.

I don't want to use both upper and lower either. Still drive my car on the street quite a bit. But I need more negative camber for sure. I'm killing the outsides of my NT-01's.
Because I have the widebody and running 275's up front, I had to rasie the car more than I would have liked to keep from continually destroying my front fender lips during hard cornering.

I can't get anymore than 1.4 negative at present, put looking at tire wear and temps, I believe 2.0 to 2.2 would be enough to get even wear and temps.

Question I have is what's best to install, the uppers or the lowers ?
Why ?

Would appreciate some feed back...Thanks.

I installed the uppers only for exactly the reason you are mentionning: protect the front fender lips.
Doing so pulls the top of the tire inboard for two reasons: more camber and lateral inboard move of the upper ball joint.
If you install the lower offset ball joint you will move the bottom of the tire outwards. This will only pull the top of the tire inboard due to the camber change :wink:

 

[Coz]

Wonder if using only the top or bottom puts more stress on the ball joint that didn't get changed out since one is now angled and the other is not, losing that parallel line between the two.
I'm going to start with the Tops and see how it goes and what I gain.

Thanks guys !

I installed the uppers only for exactly the reason you are mentionning: protect the front fender lips.
Doing so pulls the top of the tire inboard for two reasons: more camber and lateral inboard move of the upper ball joint.
If you install the lower offset ball joint you will move the bottom of the tire outwards. This will only pull the top of the tire inboard due to the camber change :wink: