This is how I want my "ish" build thread 1997 NSX

[Nero Tenebre]

Well ok I don't mean to bash Seibon stuff and definitely not the vendor who is a terrific guy. I've had seibon parts before and have a CF hood of theirs on my Benz, and I wouldn't give up your OEM piece in a swap. Even if the oem were broken I'd try to fix it. OTOH, this piece is down by the ground away from the eyes so maybe fitment isn't even a big issue. Up to you, I was just making a recommendation to stay oem.. not trying to bash anything.

 

[Teej]

Well ok I don't mean to bash Seibon stuff and definitely not the vendor who is a terrific guy. I've had seibon parts before and have a CF hood of theirs on my Benz, and I wouldn't give up your OEM piece in a swap. Even if the oem were broken I'd try to fix it. OTOH, this piece is down by the ground away from the eyes so maybe fitment isn't even a big issue. Up to you, I was just making a recommendation to stay oem.. not trying to bash anything.

Sorry, did not mean to make it seem as if you were bashing any of our vendors. I did not take it that way, only the quality of Seibon as a whole. The vendor I am speaking with isnt even the one I am buying it from anyway. I was just saying that amidst Seibons very well known issues, this specific part, at least from one vendor, isnt near the problem as many other Seibon parts. And to your point, all things equal, I'd go OEM or DF before Seibon.

I just like this part and am HOPING (fingers crossed) that it will work out well. I mean, there's a chance this may never end up getting installed.

If installed, this of course means that i will have to get the DF CF front lip and the CF side splitters.

 

[NRG TRADR]

On the CF front lip: do you guys not have parking lots out there? I scrape my stock lip a couple times on each outing and would think the CF wouldn't last but a few days. Or, are you guys just baller enough to replace it often?

 

[Teej]

On the CF front lip: do you guys not have parking lots out there? I scrape my stock lip a couple times on each outing and would think the CF wouldn't last but a few days. Or, are you guys just baller enough to replace it often?

Hah... not ballin out of control out here.. if I was ballin, I'd be shopping off the "ProCar Specials" thread instead of dreaming about it. We don't have many curbs where I live but we do have a few angled entry/exit spots for various parking lots. I don't smack my OEM one, I did once tho... but that was 3 hours North. Synth19 has a lot more going on in Chicago with crap roads and all.... probably a bad example cause he cracked his lip spoiler at some point... but I think he did it on the track.

 

[Teej]

So Geeked!!!
I just made a deal that should keep the Empire out of Cloud City forever.....

wait.....wrong forum....

I just made a deal that is VITAL to my build and I am geeked..... stay tuned.

 

[Teej]

just got off the phone with Acura of Augusta. Started ordering smaller interior trim pieces, although one of them is on back order. I may have to source some more readily available used black interior trim parts.

I also plan to jump into the CF skinning game but only for some interior non complicated pieces, otherwise its outsourcing we go.

I'm getting really antsy, feeling like I really need to kick out the back wheels with at least 15mm spacers. I just love that "almost popping out but not quite popping out" look.

This weekend I added the billet SoS ebrake button... still have the SoS pedals to install but will probably wait until I swap out the carpet.

 

[myw]

Show pix of all these glorious parts !

 

[Teej]

Updated photo of rear stance... 15mm spacers? larger ?

This is probably best angle to show you what I'm workin with

 

[Vi3tBoy]

15mm looks like you'll be happy.

 

[Teej]

Last night I dropped a bulb into the taillight housing... I panicked as I looked around for possible solutions... Fortunately and accidentally discovered the aftermarket bulb was magnetic. I stuck my magnet rod through the hole to see if it would fit before I put tape on it... heard a little 'clack' and pulled out the bulb

 

[Teej]

My Seibon CF 02+ rear lower valance arrived yesterday... Its a beautiful two piece construction that will require some work on my part before its ready to install. I am actually happy its two pieces because both are in need of reinforcement and this makes it easier to work on anyway... I could do this entire build thread on reinforcing this valance with preparation for the Difflow diffuser addition... would I be the first to pull this off? :biggrin: As another person suggested, I was going to paint the outside L/R of the Seibon valance but I think plasti-dip spraying it black, then using glossifier would work just as well at a fraction of the cost. Remember, I build on a tight budget... I know RYU did a LOT of work on the same valance...

My biggest decision right now will be whether or not to keep my current DF valance or to sell it... either repaired or have someone else repair it. The damage is minor and unoticeable. It's actually less disheartening than I remembered. As unpopular of a decision as it may be, I may end up selling my current DF valance as I really can't afford to keep both. If I want to get this car where I have envisioned, its going to require a lot of "cost trading" in order to maximize my dollars. Most of my tan (camel) interior including seats will be up for sale to offset the acquisition costs of the red components.

and now.... the Seibon...

 

[Vi3tBoy]

Can you post detailed pics of the damage? and how much ya thinking for it?

 

[Teej]

Spent some time ideating at Home Depot last night before buying some things for my valance (reinforcing materials, plasti-dip, painters mask)... I think most will be impressed with my reinforcing efforts and material choices.

I am also going to paint the outside (L/R) of the valance plastidip black, then hit it with glossifier. In theory this should be an excellent way to add color so the CF doesnt show from the sides... I fear it would look tacky in some lighting situations without either paint or plastidip. Then one day when I change valances, the next owner can just peel away the plasti-layer.

Looks like I'm all in for keeping the Seibon... As previously mentioned, my BBK project will be taking a back seat in light of the OEM red seat hand shake for acquisition deal.

The line is already growing for my current rear valance, and it looks like I probably will NOT be going the NavPod route as I will search for Navigation all in one unit (not hard to find). So my LMR NavPod bracket will most likely be going up for sale as well.

Anyone interested in '97 camel interior components let me know... I will take detailed photos for those interested... I still have not acquired the red seats but I should within the next couple of months.

Stay tuned....

- - - Updated - - -

Okay, my Sony Amp arrived today.... 4/3 channel 600w.. .nothing special, but it will definitely help with sound. So I decided to open up the center console and pull the radio back out and take additional photos. Now, I'm obviously not an install specialist, but this looks kind of like a sad hack job... I know that my Kenwood double din should run to my amp right? then the amp run to the speakers right?

What do I do with this mess? This first image shows where my L/R door speakers are coming out from the Kenwood nest of wires. The doors are running the speaker/tweet components instead of the two in one configuration.



The second image shows where the purple speaker wires come out from the Kenwood and connect to the OEM wiring. This confuses me just a tad. With my current sound, only the door speakers work barely, no floor sub working.


Finally, this third image shows where the purple wires connect to the Kenwood. Being Rockford Fosgate purples, I can only assume at some point in time there might have been juice in the cars past. But then again, these could just be spare scraps.


Anyway.... I have everything I need for this install...

 

[OKI-BOY]

This past Saturday I decided to mount my sub into the zetoolman v3 enclosure. Instructions though fractured, appeared simple enough and it should only take maybe 30 minutes or so.

Anyway, two hours into the project I started to lose patience. Ever try to hold a slippery bedpan shaped object between your legs while drilling on the garage floor? :redface: You have to file down the fiberglass inner lip so that the clips enclosed in the packaging could fit over the fiberglass inner lip. Well, I do not have a rotary tool so after I drilled the holes, I had to figure something else out. I ended up using the drill bit tip to whittle away the areas to mount the clips. This was VERY tedious and time consuming. So i get them all clipped on, and go to put the sub in place only to find that 6 of the holes were off and needed to be redrilled or adjusted. No problem...except more whittle time. I would have paid an extra $50 to have the edges filed so all I had to do was line up the holes and drill, then be done with it. On top of that, I purchased the suggested Earthquake slim for this specific zetoolman box (suggested by zetoolman himself) but the included screws were way too short. An embarrassing 5 or so hours later and a trip to Home Depot for screws that were long enough, I had the sub mounted. :smile:

Of course, this probably would have taken some of you all of 30 minutes. It probably would have taken me an hour if I had the right tools on hand. :biggrin:

On Sunday before the last Bakers cruise of the season, I decided to start ripping out the factory sub in the passenger floor and clearing away that entire area. This was like ordering the big fat burger on the sign and getting something the size of a slider. Not exactly as fun and easy as advertised is what I'm getting at. My goal was to at least get it secured in the floor before going on the cruise. Well, two hours later and it was time to close up shop and finish later. The entire sub mounting, and box clearing was a lot harder than I ever dreamed.

Heres a few photos from the gutting project...




After all the work, I decided to not install the sub yet as I still need my 4-channel amp that I have yet to purchase. I pulled out my head unit though to see what I have to work with. This thing is wired for sound already... I know the blue wires are for the door speakers as you can clearly see those every time I open the door. The purple wires...well... I am GUESSING they are supposed to go to the amp whenever I find them and buy the amp.
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I had the same if not worse thoughts installing mine. Its well worth getting Zetoolman to install woofer.X10!

 

[Teej]

I have 6 cans of red plasti-dip spray... thinking this weekend I will spray my NSXR spoiler red, maybe my TE-37's, and I am thinking I'll put an old school "A-Team" strip diagonal up the side of my car.

 

[NRG TRADR]

Eeek. I would undo that whole mess, start over and do it right clean and simple. I've seen a trunk set on fire from a hack amp install.

 

[Teej]

Eeek. I would undo that whole mess, start over and do it right clean and simple. I've seen a trunk set on fire from a hack amp install.

Just purchased a Kenwood DNX6190HD so my DDX512 will be posted for sale very soon...

 

[Teej]

Ungghhh previous did a really bad job.... used caulking or something all over the inner door... just hatched an idea for the door speakers..

 

[Teej]

Who knows what this is?

 

[ekhonda87]

Looks like a garage door opener maybe?

 

[Teej]

Looks like a garage door opener maybe?

Yes... homelink... to be integrated into the dash most likely.. unless I use the EDM/JDM switch panel...

 

[Nefarious]

Wow, that stereo install is a mess. I would pull it all out to the main oem harness and start fresh. Shorten the wires and solder / heat shrink all connections, run wires to doors properly, and re-run the RCA cables. Avoid the quick crimp tubes that were used on your harness originally. Also make sure your RCA cables are ran opposite side of the car from your power line for the amps. Make sure your ground has full metal contact. Use a wire brush to remove the paint even to help prevent alternator whine. If you do get the whine through your speakers, trace back all your grounds, as that is the culprit. If you get really into it and don't care so much about weight, look at adding dynamat to the full interior. It makes a real difference.

Good luck with the plastidip. It is really cool stuff to use. 3-4 coats makes it thick enough to remove in one big sheet.

 

[Teej]

Wow, that stereo install is a mess. I would pull it all out to the main oem harness and start fresh. Shorten the wires and solder / heat shrink all connections, run wires to doors properly, and re-run the RCA cables. Avoid the quick crimp tubes that were used on your harness originally. Also make sure your RCA cables are ran opposite side of the car from your power line for the amps. Make sure your ground has full metal contact. Use a wire brush to remove the paint even to help prevent alternator whine. If you do get the whine through your speakers, trace back all your grounds, as that is the culprit. If you get really into it and don't care so much about weight, look at adding dynamat to the full interior. It makes a real difference.

Good luck with the plastidip. It is really cool stuff to use. 3-4 coats makes it thick enough to remove in one big sheet.

lol, I was kidding about the plasti-dip part sorta. I do have 6 cans of red, but its for my chair railing in the garage.

Yeah, I actually bought a newer Kenwood and have since removed the old one and that rats nest that came with it (minus the wiring harness which I recycled).

For the speakers in the doors, running the wires through the factory grommet is impossible without door removal and a lot of help. After hours of fiddling around ,a light in my head went on. I ended up snipping the OEM orange/white wire in the door from the brown connector. I ran a short wire from those to the back of the existing Alpine 6.5" door speakers in each door. Then using a wiring harness diagram for reference, I located each doors respective orange/white from the OEM wiring, and connected the speaker wires from the amp, to the coordinating aftermarket wiring harness positions. (Drivers side = Pin 7 / Pin 15) (Passenger side = Pin 8 / 16) The wires I jumped are actually for the OEM foot well bass speakers L/R for reference.

This ended up working out great as I now have both doors put back together. As you saw in an above photo, the OEM door plastic was half ripped and held together barely by what looked like gobs of flexible latex caulking. I pulled that out and lined areas around the speaker and covered other open parts of the door panel with dynamat type stuff I purchased from my old Jeep. Pretty thick stuff, the exact brand name escapes me.

When I do my interior swap, I may end up lining the part of the front cab floor near the wheels with the left over material. I might just do it anyway right now before I install the zetoolman sub. All I really need to do now is run the purple reverse wire from the head unit to the back for whenever I decide to buy a camera, then sure up my connections, seat the head unit, conduit my wires cab side of firewall and engine back, and be done.

Then I move on to the Seibon rear lower valence... thats what the black plasti dip can is for.

 

[Teej]

 

[Teej]

I'm doing like 3 projects at once,.... some things arrived today....