The "J" Swap

Thanks for following. Enjoy.

BTW, I am not using my NSX ECU, I am using the stock J32A2 automatic ECU. I wanted the swap to be as bolt in as possible without having to get a custom ECU and tuning and I will continue on that path for a while, documenting my changes to see how much I can get out of the stock setup. I would like to go twin turbo with an AEM ECU some day and prior to that I will probably change from my stock J32A2 ECU to the AEM ECU and get a custom NA tune before I go turbo. For all of the mods you are talking about, I don't think you can really take advantage of them without a aftermarket ECU and tune. I will probably just upgrade to the J35A3, which is all but identical to the J32A2 except for the increase in stroke, if I want more displacement/torque. My final goal may be a J35A3 twin turbo. I'll call it the NSX-J 3.5TT.
 
I've been following this thread and wondering if there is an update on the swap?


Rob
 
Well. That was a long read from start to finish.
Been working on a K swap w/ Nsx Trans used off and on for a few years now. Nice to know that their is another alternative also.

I have 2 NSXs and d definitly need to chat with you asap. One that's caged and gutted completely to race and the other is modified into a time trials street car. Both without engines.
Please contact me.
Scott
(832)439-1858
Thanks for all your hard work.
 
The build is still going but I did take some time to just enjoy the car. I also have had to finish up some house projects before the holiday's. I have been tidying up some wiring and working on the idle issue. I will also be working on a free flowing exhaust then maybe a dual throttle body setup.

Scott (TXvsLV), I will be in contact with you shortly.
 
I know Ross very well. Well did at least.

My buddy was set to drive his car in time attack and I was set up as the backup. We made multiple trips to Arizona to check out its progress and to test the car on track. It did run. And ran well. Aero was great but the weight distribution was way off for the slow corners due to a practically 30-70 weight distribution. No mechanical grip in an slow corners.

The car was a work of art. A mad scientists attemp at the ultimate race car. It was indeed magnificent.
But in the end disappointing. I miss Ross.

- - - Updated - - -

On JSwap

All we need or want are the motor and Trans mounts and adapters for power train.
No wiring. No AC. No computer help. Just mounting.
Please get to me ASAP. Thanks
Merry Christmas to you all.
 
Ross was an enigmatic character to say the least...what has happened to him since his prime days?
 
thanks..so the auto business was more of a hobby for him.
 
Well he still has a lot of knowledge about it and I think if you're willing to put that level of skin in the game it's a bit more than a hobby, but in the end he decided he didn't want to do it forever as work. JMO though
 
Wow. As someone who has a beautiful NSX sitting in the garage with a blown head gasket, this thread is really appealing!

I'm pretty sure I will be ordering a kit!

I drove Ross's K20 NSX. We did all of one lap at Firebird and did some straight line testing on the road just outside the track. Needless to say, it is pretty critical to shake down a car before its first event, instead of doing it at the event :)

I like that your kit doesn't change the NSX and would allow me to rebuild and swap my C motor back in. I also like that it uses the stock NSX trans, unlike the K20 setup on Ross's car which was using an RSX trans and was a little questionable with the turbo power we were supposed to be making.

Epic thread. I am subscribed and need to visit NSXPrime more often than once a year!
 
f1racr said:
Can you offer some assistance on the Odysey fuel rails you used........ are these part numbers 16621P8AA02 - Rear and 16611P8AA02 - Front ?

I was just doing some research and new, one is about $ 20 and the other nearly $ 100........ seems odd............
Click to expand...


Hi Fraser, yes those are the correct part numbers. The fuel rails are from a 99-01 Honda Odyssey. The injector spacing is the same on both the front and rear rail so you should be able to reverse the rails if you drill new mounting holes. So, you could probably just order two of the $20 rails, tap all of the ends and drill a couple mounting holes.

Good luck, I can't wait to see what you do with your build.

David
 
Last edited:
I would be driving my car more but I don't have any heat! I thought I had hooked up the heater hose wrong on the new engine, but that wasn't it. Then I realized my CCU wasn't moving the heater valve. Time for a CCU rebuild.

I pulled out the CCU, then extracted the circuit board.

Yep, leaking capacitors!
20150115_215750_zps91500e64.jpg


Yuk.
20150115_215901_zps2e0c7c92.jpg


New capacitors. I could only get 10 of the 12, but the two I couldn't get aren't leaking and are in spec.
20150115_220111_zpse5e206e5.jpg


Ahhh, the feeling of new capacitors, and HEAT!
20150116_144427_zps3ec083ac.jpg
 
Last edited:
fantastic read, I think the community would still be interested in the "kit" if you ever decide to produce a few! Very good read and project!
 
Logonzojls said:
fantastic read, I think the community would still be interested in the "kit" if you ever decide to produce a few! Very good read and project!
Click to expand...

A "kit" is still in the works. I have a few pre-production parts already, I just have to make a few last minute changes to the designs then the motor mounts should be ready for production. Once the mounts are finalized I will work on the wiring adapter, A/C lines and exhaust.

I will probably just list the parts for sale in the "for sale" section, as it isn't worth it for me to set up a "vendor" account.

Thanks for your patience.
 
TeckniX said:
Are you creating the parts from CAD files?

These guys seem to make it pretty easy to create your own stuff...
http://www.emachineshop.com/

+298513 on getting a swap kit :D
Click to expand...

Yes, I have all the parts created in CAD files.

That is a great site with free, very easy to use CAD software. Thank you for the link!
 
Guess what happened on the way home. I was stuck in 1st gear and about a mile from my house, at least I didn’t have to get a tow. Lucky, it was the slave cylinder which leaks on the ground and not into the drivers footwell and all over the carpet and my shoe. I’ll replace the master cylinder as well. By the way, the service manual says to remove the master cylinder hard line from the master cylinder which is hard to reach, I found it much easier to disconnect the hard line from the union just below the master cylinder.

20150304_172842_zpsjst4ztnc.jpg


Thinking back, I should have replaced the slave cylinder when I installed the SOS clutch dampener delete and saw all of that crappy clutch fluid come out. It is just one of those things that I probably should have done while I was “in there”, like changing the water pump when you change the timing belt. Oh well, live and learn.

New parts!

20150305_100404_zpslqrz3rpd.jpg


Otherwise, the car is still running great! I am working on a freer flowing exhaust.

For those of you wondering, the “basic kit” should be available shortly, thanks for your patience.
 
Last edited:
Are you still going to be building the Kit for a drive by wire? Im still interested doing this down the road with a J35A8 or J32A3 since Hondata makes a Flash pro that will work for full tuning.
 
cb717cls said:
Are you still going to be building the Kit for a drive by wire? Im still interested doing this down the road with a J35A8 or J32A3 since Hondata makes a Flash pro that will work for full tuning.
Click to expand...

Yes, the basic motor mount kit should work with the DBW engines and the kits are just starting to ship.
 

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