The "austrian type-R" NSX

[austrian type-R]

Back from the 3rd round of the German Time Attack Masters in Assen at TT Circuit. What a fantastic Track, way cooler than Eurospeedway or Nürburgring GP Track. It was so hard with the weather conditions that day. We had like 10 times sun/rain/dry track/wet track/ 50% of the track wet/heavy rain/sun....... I can not imagine how to drive the car fast with the old shitty ABS. The ABS upgrade makes the car easy to brake in rain. I won my class again, but it was the closest of all victorys, since HP is'nt that important when the track is wet and I realy did'nt want to hit my NSX into the wall.

some more pics of even more cool cars!
https://www.facebook.com/MyTypeR/photos/?tab=album&album_id=846023768831458

 

[MvM]

Back from the 3rd round of the German Time Attack Masters in Assen at TT Circuit. What a fantastic Track, way cooler than Eurospeedway or Nürburgring GP Track. It was so hard with the weather conditions that day. We had like 10 times sun/rain/dry track/wet track/ 50% of the track wet/heavy rain/sun....... I can not imagine how to drive the car fast with the old shitty ABS. The ABS upgrade makes the car easy to brake in rain. I won my class again, but it was the closest of all victorys, since HP is'nt that important when the track is wet and I realy did'nt want to hit my NSX into the wall.

some more pics of even more cool cars!
https://www.facebook.com/MyTypeR/photos/?tab=album&album_id=846023768831458

Hi Christian,

Congrats with your succes in Assen!! :smile: :smile:

Your car looks great!!

Unfortunately, I am too busy at the moment with work to do much with the NSX right now and I did not have the time to go to Assen.

 

[austrian type-R]

Hi! Season is starting soon, so I have to start updating my NSX for the German Time Attack 2017

1) I installed Spoon Calipers with Dixcel brake discs and pads. Dixcel is a japanese brake company. I use their HS rotors, RA front pads and R01 rear pads
http://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/

2) The offset of my street rim (Volk ce28 with 7,5x17 offset 43mm) is to low for the Spoon caliper. I need a 10mm spacer on front to clear the calipers. I had a pair of used wheel bearings in stock with longer studs. Since my ball joints on both front knuckles had some play, I had to install new ones anyway and all this work was good to do it at one time. I also modified the bracket for the brake line at the knuckle. It is kinda in the way for the air flow coming from the hose. It is made of 2 parts, spot welded. I bored it off and installed the smaller part with the thread and installed it this way on the knuckle

3) The dust shields of the front brakes had to get a bit modified to clear the Spoon caliper. I had to take them off anyway and at this time I made the hole for the brake cooling bigger using a Dremel.

4) My Taitec header got new heat wrap. The old one was already f-uped from heat, rain, etc. It lasted 8 years.

5) The Enkei RPF1 8x16 and OZ Ultraleggera 8x17, both with offset 40, fits without spacers. My tire setup for dry condition is a Yokohama A048 in 225/40/16 and 285/30/18. There is no proper size available in 17inch, so I decided to go the 16 front and 18 rear combo. A bit crazy, but it should work fine. The wet setup is my last season used Federal 595 RSR in 235/40/17 and 285/30/18.

6) I got a realy good deal on a 1500km used OS GIKEN 4.400 LSD from France for my 5 speed. I could'nt say no, so I bought it and installed it along with a overhaul kit for my Exedy twin carbon clutch.

7) I had to put out the engine anyway, cause the timing belt jumped 1 tooth last year. The reason was a crank pulley fault. Well, call me lucky. ....the SOS subframe bushinigs had to go also, they began to squeek when the car goes over bumps, very anoying, I go back to oem bushings.

 

[CB72]

Glad to hear you installed the OS Giken diff!
On my car I took the brake shields off alltogether.

 

[austrian type-R]

taking of the shields completely is not good for the ball joint boots until you protect them again.

 

[8R6]

sick build man!!

 

[austrian type-R]

Hallo! An update here.

Putted out the carpets in trunk and cabine, all the leather covers and bulkheadlining, roof, a pillar covers. Just left are the seats, dash board and armrest. Put some cf side ducts, b-pillars and ATR racing hood. TRUCK SCALE SAYS: 1140kg with 15 litre gas and without me. = 2513lbs

 

[austrian type-R]

Did some upgrades: brake cooling hoses for rear; removed interior rear leather parts and all carpets (even trunk); ordered a KW competition A2 with uniball top mounts (will get it in 5 weeks I hope); prepared my Comptech intake manifold with Edelbrock Corvette C4 2x58mm throttle body (I had to drill 4 little holes to connect the small vacuum lines for the vacuum pump system). I also had to modify the thermostat manifold (relocate the upper hose-connector for coolan-tank return hose (small upper line)

Comptech used it without the VVIS system in mid of the 90is and they got ~400bhp out of the engine with 3.0i displacement. I will keep the VVIS installed to have better low and mid tourque and power. I wraped the IM against heat soak from the engine with the best heat-blocking material I found on motorsport equipment websites.

. Dynoday is in 2 weeks. I hope this will kick me from 348bhp (currrently) to 360-365bhp. Actual curb weight with 15ltr gas is 1140kg.

To connect the oval TB to the oem airbox I ordered a siliconhose 104mm to 90mm adapter.

I found a nice solution to mount my oil temp gauge.

Some shots from the last time attack race.

 

[austrian type-R]

1/4 mile times 9% uphill - same track - 6 years of evolution - comparison.

SETUP 2012: nearly stock. Taitec headers and GTLW. Curbweight about 40kg less than stock.
14,73 seconds

SETUP 2013: nearly stock, no changes to 2012 what I remember
14,62 seconds

SETUP 2014: heavy weight reduction: front end conversion, cf bumper beams, removed AC, Soundsystem, etc.... about 110kg less curbweight than stock
14,33 seconds

SETUP 2015: some more weight reduction. about 145kg less than stock
14,12 seconds

SETUP 2016: no race, cause heavy rain. 3.0 engine mods to 348bhp, AEM V2, Exedy twin carbon clutch. Some aero-mods like NSX-R undertray and wing.... about 160kg less than stock curb weight, 303bhp dynoed

SETUP 2017: all out weight reduction. stripped interior except dashboard and seats, cg b-pillars and side ducts. About 180kg less than stock
13,46 seconds

2012-2015 on 255 wide Bridgestone Potenza RE050A and always about 30 degree hot summer day
2017 on 285 wide Federal 595RSR and about 20 degree mild sunny day.

PS: On a straight line the car is about 1 Seconds faster. I did a 12,4x at Eurospeedway in Germany this year on Yokohama a048 285ish wide. My allignment setup is for track racing. I bet with less camber there is less wheelspin and 0,3 seconds better times possible?

 

[austrian type-R]

Wing Commander

GTC300

 

[RYU]

congrats! love the photos and the podium!!!

 

[Estoril_NSX]

Car is sick!

 

[austrian type-R]

Finaly my car got filmed by an unknown person while I am driving the track TT Assen - Netherland.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6cQ9zWk_KmU&feature=youtu.be

 

[austrian type-R]

Today finaly made the 3,5i to the Dyno!

3,5 Liter stroker kit with Toda C: ~330 wheel PS, 391PS to engine and 391NM!


Video link to the dynorun:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pK7hocRDkLg

Dynosheets my old 3,0 vs new 3,5

Compare a 3,0 with Toda killers and ITBs: 416PS built by my engine tuner also. Look how the bottleneck the oem TB is vs the free breathing ITB engine. With ITBs there would be easy 60PS more on my 3,5....that means about 460PS!

 

[RYU]

nice numbers. are those figures at the wheels or crank? i'm assuming at the wheels

 

[austrian type-R]

Those are at the engine. Wheels you see in the Video...peak is 333,xx whp

 

[austrian type-R]

The yearly 1/4 mile race localy

ATR NSX Evolution: 2012 - 2018 (2016 no race happend):
14,73 (300PS / 1300kg)
14,62 (300PS / 1300kg)
14,33 (300PS / 1250kg)
14,12 (300PS / 1200kg)
13,46 (345PS / 1140kg)
13,02 (393PS / 1190kg)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCTYtqFmRaY&feature=youtu.be

 

[austrian type-R]

Yesterday Dynopull. 392 PS to the engine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ihmf1pFF1Ww


warm up on the dyno

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QF4Nw4cy3G0


Changed to Uniball this year + Titan ball joints in front. Used from an ex ADAC GT car the welded sterring rack frame.

 

[RYU]

Hi Christian! Did you decide not to use the ITB kit? If so, why?

 

[austrian type-R]

The evolution of the ATR racing NSX continues. Since 2015 we are using modified C30 engines. While the 1st one made 345HP at the crank (3.0i with comptech cams), the 2nd one was a 3,5 stroker with Toda C producing 394HP. Today our 3rd built engine cracked the magic 400 number. It is a 3,2 ltr. with Toda C and ITBs. The dyno chart compares the 3,5 VS the 3,2 which makes a bit less tourqe. We are looking for another 10-15hp by adding a airbox and use 1cm shorter funnels.

It needs much effort to setup an ITB. I spent the whole day on the dyno. Many thanks to ECU performance in Vienna and Doctronic.at for dynoing our car with so much passion and perfection

Some weight reduction was on the way too. Light weight rear lexan window with a custom carbon fiber frame lowers the weight by 9,2 Kilo! An even lighter full CF lid was also developed, but I am not allowed to run this tin Time Attack PRO class.

http://nsx-parts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/DSC_5192.jpg

 

[hondasash]

Hey Christian,

Looks nice- really love ITBs, even the power increase cannot be compared with e.g Turbo for sure.
Unfortunately not really street legal in Germany, otherwise I would aim for that as well.

If you will be able to provide a sound file, would be really nice.

 

[Procar Specials]

Great numbers....even if I thought that ITB's makes a bigger difference.
A guy in germany installed ITB's at his stock 3.0l engine some years before, also with a small gain in power.

(The old NSX LM engine in GT2 class (NA) made 380 HP, so you are over that.........with Toda internals it will hold. We use these kits in our K20 racing engine....280 HP)

Kakimoto in Japan makes airbox for NSX.

 

[BBVNSX]

Those are impressive numbers Christian! Great work!

That car with all the weight reduction and those numbers must be seriously fun and fast!

In for a sound/video file too!

Keep up the good work!


P. S.: Do you have an idea if with the shorter trumpets it is possible to fit an airbox below an NSX-R maintenance lid? :biggrin:

 

[austrian type-R]

Thanks! I did lots of other things too to the car. For example this latest thing in weight reduction

I dont think there is enough room to run trompets with an engine lid on it. I saw a lid which had a cut out for the trumpets somewhere in the WWW

some vids from the last dyno run:
The sounds and dynorun of my ITBs. 405,2 bhp

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ho-skNZhso&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kik2twGhmbo&feature=youtu.be

 

[BBVNSX]

Chapman said “Adding power makes you faster on the straights; subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”, you are doing both :biggrin::biggrin:

CF Part looks great! :wink:

Thanks! I did lots of other things too to the car. For example this latest thing in weight reduction