Can someone tell or direct me to the part number for the temp gauge sender? The car isn't overheating, just replaced t-stat and three hoses from eng. to fire wall, bled according to manual, and now gauge goes to red. I drove it 50 miles or so and it worked fine then after it cooled off, ten miles back it pegged the gauge. I looked on the parts diagram here and couldn't find it. I think it's the sender because I did a resistance test on it when it was up to temp and it read lower than the spec. and when I first started the car cold it only took about one minute for it to start climbing. Thanks, Steve
temp gauge in the red
- Thread starter earbleeder
- Start date
37245-PR7-A02 SENSOR, OIL PRESSURE 1 1991 Acura NSX 235.42 List Price
But first tell exactly how you bled it.
HTH,
LarryB
But first tell exactly how you bled it.
HTH,
LarryB
well I opened all the bleeders and filled the coolant until they flowed constantly then closed them one by one per the manual. Started the car with the cap at one click and heater on until fans kicked on and burped the bleeders again. Gauge still in the red. Took the car on a half mile ride and gauge went to normal (half way). Brought it back into garage and while idling it went back to red with fans kicking on and off. Tested coolant temp sender per manual while car was hot and resistance was lower than spec.( I think this sender is the cause.) Tested gauge per manual and instead of needle slowly going up as said, as soon as I turned the key it pegged. I DON'T KNOW!
Hey Larry, is that P.N. you gave for the coolant temp sender for the gauge? What part of the parts book is it in? Thanks for all the help, Steve
Hey Larry, is that P.N. you gave for the coolant temp sender for the gauge? What part of the parts book is it in? Thanks for all the help, Steve
Larry Bastanza said:
As you correctly described Larry, this is the Oil Pressure Sensor <!--StartFragment -->
I'm having a hard time finding it - would have thought it should be part of the pump assembly drawing but it's not ...
I think it may be one of these in the engine harness drawing
37870-PJ7-003 Sensor TW (Temperature, Water?)
or
37760-PH7-003 Sensor Radiator Fan (but I think this one is the thermostat switch for the fan)
Like Larry, I'd also be more inclined to still suspect a bleeding problem - why should sender suddenly coincidentally fail?
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I don't know why it would just fail. What happened was I blew a radiator hose and after replacing them I have the gauge problem. What I don't understand is that upon first replacing the hoses I drove the car on the highway for 50 or so miles and the gauge read fine. On the way back it pegged it around 10 miles into it, so I had it towed and figured the t-stat wouldn't open so I got a new one and still have the problem. Why wouldn't a trapped air problem occur during the first 50 miles? I don't know. What I was thinking though is if I raised the front of the car or the left rear where the bleeders are and made one of them the highest point, ran the car until the fans kick on and the t-stat opens and then bleed that highest point I should in theory get absolutely all of the air out correct? Thanks, Steve
The main problem area when bleeding is where the coolant lines go over the gas tank and into the engine bay. Air collects there and stops the coolant flow.
The temp gauge sensor is shown in section 23 page 136 in the manual. If the wire to it gets shorted to ground the gauge will go to max. Since you were working in that area the wire may have gotten pinched.
The temp gauge sensor is shown in section 23 page 136 in the manual. If the wire to it gets shorted to ground the gauge will go to max. Since you were working in that area the wire may have gotten pinched.
I thought about that but I think that it would instantly peg if it was grounded in some way, like when I tested the gauge. With it plugged in and the car running it takes a minute or so to go from low to pegged with a cold engine. Thanks, Steve
OK,
When you bleed the car MUST be higher in the back. I leave to back stands and lower the front until the front tires touch the ground.
When you are done and the car has been through a heat cycle you will have to add an additional quart if all is correct. If the car was fine before you started I would suspect yoiu have an air pocket, redo it as I described.
The oil pressure sender for the gauge is found on the spool valve parts breakout. It is right below the front spool valve on the front head.
HTH,
LarryB
When you bleed the car MUST be higher in the back. I leave to back stands and lower the front until the front tires touch the ground.
When you are done and the car has been through a heat cycle you will have to add an additional quart if all is correct. If the car was fine before you started I would suspect yoiu have an air pocket, redo it as I described.
The oil pressure sender for the gauge is found on the spool valve parts breakout. It is right below the front spool valve on the front head.
HTH,
LarryB
Thanks Larry, I just went out there and did a resistance test on the sender with a cold engine and it wasn't even close to the 146 ohm cold spec. Also with it plugged in, cold eng, the gauge reads half way when I turn the key. It's got to be the sender. Thanks again, Steve
Hi Ken,
Yes you are right I am having a brain fade. Please disregard above. Even though stated the part correctly vs. it's number, IT IS NOT A TEMP SENSOR
.
However, do repeat the bleed as described above:wink:, I have not completely lost it.
Thanks Ken for waking me up.
Regards,
LarryB
Yes you are right I am having a brain fade. Please disregard above. Even though stated the part correctly vs. it's number, IT IS NOT A TEMP SENSOR
.However, do repeat the bleed as described above:wink:, I have not completely lost it.
Thanks Ken for waking me up.
Regards,
LarryB
I have the opposite problem. Mine reads cold all the time, sometimes it moves up 1 hash mark from the bottom. I get heat and it runs fine. Any ideas???
96 NSX-T said:
Replace your thermostat, it is toast
.Regards,
LarryB
I ordered the thermo unit and I'm going to try that. If it works I'll let you know. Steve
It is very likely the thermostat--I have replaced two of them now for the same symptom you have--runs cold. First thermostat was stuck open, and the second one had the rubber gasket/seal break apart.
I knew I had all the air out. Finally, it was the thermo unit (temp gauge sender) P.N. 37750-ph2-014 that did the trick. Thanks to all that posted, Steve
