Good looking S's out there!
Swapping a Mugen-Honda V8 into NSX?
- Thread starter medicalstudent
- Start date
That would be the coolest NSX out there 
(And only one V8?)
(And only one V8?)
Is that a methanol motor? Make sure you can fire the thing and tune is for gasoline before you get too far along...
Size looks like it will fit, I say go for it!
LMK if I can help, I also love senseless projects! Built an exhaust system of a Hayabusa V8 swap into an Atom last year, classic bag of snakes headers! I was looking at a NSX motor swap into a March IRL chassis a few years ago, talk about senseless...NSX motor was almost the same size as a Cosworth XB V8, just wider across the heads.
Size looks like it will fit, I say go for it!
LMK if I can help, I also love senseless projects! Built an exhaust system of a Hayabusa V8 swap into an Atom last year, classic bag of snakes headers! I was looking at a NSX motor swap into a March IRL chassis a few years ago, talk about senseless...NSX motor was almost the same size as a Cosworth XB V8, just wider across the heads.
- Joined
- 1 February 2008
- Messages
- 7
Thanks Matt, you forgot about my Dallara/Mugen F394 though. It'll arrive at IAH next week 
Found out the Mugen V8 motor would have to be rebuilt. That in itself would be a tricky endeavor as I'm sure Honda and Mugen/MTEC would not provide technical support for this "grey market" gem. A friend of mine had access to some Mugen 4-cylinder race motors a few years back and said surprisingly that they could not duplicate the characteristics of the motor using a similar Honda block.
I initially thought about putting the motor into an Acura RL like Mugen did with their Mugen Legend Max, but test-drove the car the other day and found it to be uninspiring.
In terms of fitment, I don't think size would be as problematic. The motor is in the MF300 series (meaning it's a 3.0L motor). It's not the 4.0L MF408 beast that Martin mentioned (4.0L motor used for the 2002 Panoz LMP-07 ALMS racer or the Mugen Legend Max).
Anyway, I think I'm going to pass on this. I think I'd rather save up for a NSX Type-R. I'm still kicking myself for not picking up a NSX Type-R track car in Germany for $58,000USD a few months ago.
If anyone else wants to take on the challenge, let me know and I'll redirect you. The V8 motor with the F3000 car cost about $16,000 USD located in Japan.
Found out the Mugen V8 motor would have to be rebuilt. That in itself would be a tricky endeavor as I'm sure Honda and Mugen/MTEC would not provide technical support for this "grey market" gem. A friend of mine had access to some Mugen 4-cylinder race motors a few years back and said surprisingly that they could not duplicate the characteristics of the motor using a similar Honda block.
I initially thought about putting the motor into an Acura RL like Mugen did with their Mugen Legend Max, but test-drove the car the other day and found it to be uninspiring.
In terms of fitment, I don't think size would be as problematic. The motor is in the MF300 series (meaning it's a 3.0L motor). It's not the 4.0L MF408 beast that Martin mentioned (4.0L motor used for the 2002 Panoz LMP-07 ALMS racer or the Mugen Legend Max).
Anyway, I think I'm going to pass on this. I think I'd rather save up for a NSX Type-R. I'm still kicking myself for not picking up a NSX Type-R track car in Germany for $58,000USD a few months ago.
If anyone else wants to take on the challenge, let me know and I'll redirect you. The V8 motor with the F3000 car cost about $16,000 USD located in Japan.
Have you seen it! Under "Just do it" there are words: "Просто Сделай это" Это по-русски! (It's in Russian) Where you've got it?
Something like the audi or bimmer v8's would be a lot more practical. The Ls7 of course would be cheapest and most versatile. I just drove the 427 version and I just can't hang with pushrods anymore, the lack of rpm's is boring. Power is not everything. Would make one HELL of a track car though with rubbert to match. I haven't measured but I'd be surprised if thats doable. Honda being the consumate engineers they are were probably really looking at polar moment of inertia. Regarding the race engine, you would have to see the torque curve. You would probably be revving it real high before you let the clutch out. I've had a similar situation before, and it makes for a sucky street vehicle.
LS7-from Wikopedia:
Peak output is 505 hp (377 kW) at 6300 rpm and 470 ft·lbf (637 N·m) at 4800 rpm with a 7000 rpm redline setting a new record for a production overhead valve pushrod engine.[citation needed] During GM's reliability testing of this engine in its prototype phase, the LS7 was remarked to have been repeatedly tested to be 8000 rpm capable, although power was not made at that rpm level, due to the restraints of the camshaft's profile and the intake manifold ability to flow required air at that engine speed.
7K is pretty good, running to 8K sounds like a lot of RPM to me...just swap out a cam and an intake
By no means impossible, if you got the cash, that's all that counts..
The Le Mans GT1 cars had the gearbox hanging out of their ass. A hewland. You would need a whole new subframe designed.
If i were going to do it, i'd just design the whole car ground up again as a spaceframe.
The Le Mans GT1 cars had the gearbox hanging out of their ass. A hewland. You would need a whole new subframe designed.
If i were going to do it, i'd just design the whole car ground up again as a spaceframe.
The only NSX sub frame parts you need to clearance is the rear beam, and the front engine support beam. The side forgings hold or locate the front bearing for the lower A arm, and the upper A arm bolts to them as well. The rear bearing for the lower A arm and the toe links mount into the rear beam, one would need to either do a cut and weld to split the center section of the beam, spread load above with a girder design and a compression/tension strut below. Might even be able to use the stock bottom strut and bolt it all together with that! The new transaxle will stick out through the rebuilt beam.
The other option is hang the whole suspension off the transaxle like a real race car, ditch the coil over design the NSX has and cut out that part of the chassis. Replace that area with rocker actuated, opposing shocks that are laid in parallel to the ground, above the new transaxle.
You could get some real 'cool' points for that one!
The problem I always thought would be the dealbreaker is the odds of finding a transaxle that would just happen to have it's output shafts close enough in line with the existing wheels/hubs to not throw them. The half shafts handling that kind of torque would be a serious design. I like serious designs though!
Axle location is not that big a deal. One wants to raise the effective location up anyway when you drop the car. This will make the transaxle selection easier, either a Hiewland(sp?) sequential, or a Porsche G-50, flipped upside down(917 style). Either way you are making axles. Expensive, but not a deal breaker...IMO.
I hate this forum sometimes...I may just have to build the car I keep spouting off about... ...I need to stop dreaming and go back to work now:redface:
I hate this forum sometimes...I may just have to build the car I keep spouting off about...
...I need to stop dreaming and go back to work now:redface:
Has there ever been "any" hybrid engine swaps in any NSX?
God thats fine blue S2K. I saw that at one of the local shows. I think I actually slobbered on it by accident.:redface:His S600 is currently being restored.
As for the rest of his cars, he sold his Tracy widebody recently to someone in cali
still has his Mugen S2000
Whew...done searching
It's the front to back distance that is the axle location problem. I just took another look, there is no way to go longitudinal. It's been some time, but I've taken measurements on the old P915 box and the ZF boxes which used to be the best. They are all too long. IMO you need to stay transverse, probably with one of the trannies used in the defunct front drive only racing series awhile back which probably had no syncros. I don't know if Hewland makes anything with syncros. You're right Dave, this thread is ultimately just depressing. For us street folks, it's all about being happy with the handling and moderate power. If you saw my Cheetah thread, I had power exceeding a McLaren, you get used to it real fast, and then you just drive at insanely fast speeds, and then if you live long enough, you realize it's not about the speed. OMI, you young bucks go for it, but BE SAFE.
Which dimension? My plan is to remove the gas tank, remove the front plate of the engine compartment. There should be enough room for a dry sumped motor, mounted low, to get the output of the tranny within 100 mm of the stock hubs.
Probably cheaper, but 1000% more reliable, street-able, and without having to cut into the frame. AND with 400rwp potential to 9000RPM.
TODA C35B Stroker package.
TODA C35B Stroker package.
Yeah, that stroker engine would be way more fun than a smallblock, how much are they 100k? Dave, i shouldn't have said "no way", I'm just guessing. We'll have to take some real measurements (or maybe you have already). When I decided I didn't want to do this anyway(about 12 years ago), I dropped it. I'll probably just build up a 3.5 NA and live with that. Thats why I'm dropping all weight possible. Dave-you did get my beam, right?
I need to stop by C&C Northside, I haven't been there in ages. I think the last time was to get a little work done on my old LS400 a couple years back.
It's an awesome project on paper, but realistically taking in to consideration the durability and difficulty of rebuilding the motor, it's doesn't make much sense to me. If you were only using it as a track car and could be assured the rebuild process wouldn't be 'unreasonable', it might be justified.
That TODA package is always tempting. Well, relatively speaking.
It's an awesome project on paper, but realistically taking in to consideration the durability and difficulty of rebuilding the motor, it's doesn't make much sense to me. If you were only using it as a track car and could be assured the rebuild process wouldn't be 'unreasonable', it might be justified.
That TODA package is always tempting. Well, relatively speaking.
No replacement for displacement!
LS7 with a small cam change is 550 + HP/ 500 + LB/torque NA, 7800 RPM, total cost about $13K, used transaxle, clutch, axles another $7K and it should run about for ever with out blowing up. Weight is almost the same as stock, bit less than my SC set up when one takes into account the intercooler, pump, heat exchanger stuff.
I am an idiot who likes the fab work, there will be some cost with making a new gas tank not figured in yet, dry sump tank, exhaust, etc...
Larry, got your beam, my CNC guy lost his CNC lathe 3 weeks ago, so he is running the parts on a manual lathe. He said they would be in my hands by the end of the week!
Probably cheaper, but 1000% more reliable, street-able, and without having to cut into the frame. AND with 400rwp potential to 9000RPM.
TODA C35B Stroker package.
I hope it ok that this pic. is my new avatar.:smile:
- Joined
- 2 June 2006
- Messages
- 769
bump
bump.
Was curious if this car was picked up...or where it is. I want to outfit this engine in a FE RWD format in a 94-94 project coupe. Yes it would be extensive project but I may be working for a huge performance shop that may be willing to help me out on it. I would of course rebuild it properly and outfit it will new pistons etc and probably run TT on it also.
PS- I have been searching for awhile for a used Mugen v8
Thanks in advance.
bump.
Was curious if this car was picked up...or where it is. I want to outfit this engine in a FE RWD format in a 94-94 project coupe. Yes it would be extensive project but I may be working for a huge performance shop that may be willing to help me out on it. I would of course rebuild it properly and outfit it will new pistons etc and probably run TT on it also.
PS- I have been searching for awhile for a used Mugen v8
Thanks in advance.
