- Joined
- 14 September 2008
- Messages
- 291
Is there anything I can do to fix a stripped wheel stud? Also, is it possible to replace the stud while the hub and rotors are still on the axle or will I absolutely have to take them apart?
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Stripped wheel stud
- Thread starter topgunsnsx
- Start date
Front or rear? Front is easier to replace if you take the hub off which isn't hard. The rear is a PITA to take the hub off so it's easier to replace with the hub on.
First things first, Front or Rear?
First things first, Front or Rear?
- Joined
- 14 September 2008
- Messages
- 291
It's the front. Is it possible to replace it with the hub still on the car? Do I just hammer it back out?
I have always taken the front hub off because it isn't that hard.
However, I guess you could do it with the hub on.
1. Hammer out the old stud. You may need to get a punch or screwdriver to punch it all the way through and out.
2. Grind off one side of the seat of the new stud. So it looks like a D
3. Push it back through the hub and brake rotor with the flat part of the D facing the hub (you will see why when you do it). You may need to give it a little tap with a hammer. However, be careful of forcing it as it will mess up the thread of the stud and then you have to hammer it out again and start over.
4. Take a bunch of washers and put it on the stud and put a nut on (don't use a lug nut unless it's an extra because you will ruin it and have to throw away afterwards). Tighten it down until the rear part of the stud seats up against the rear of the hub. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN IT or you will stress/stretch the stud and it will eventually fail. I tighten it until it seats and then torque it to 85 lb/ft.
However, I guess you could do it with the hub on.
1. Hammer out the old stud. You may need to get a punch or screwdriver to punch it all the way through and out.
2. Grind off one side of the seat of the new stud. So it looks like a D
3. Push it back through the hub and brake rotor with the flat part of the D facing the hub (you will see why when you do it). You may need to give it a little tap with a hammer. However, be careful of forcing it as it will mess up the thread of the stud and then you have to hammer it out again and start over.
4. Take a bunch of washers and put it on the stud and put a nut on (don't use a lug nut unless it's an extra because you will ruin it and have to throw away afterwards). Tighten it down until the rear part of the stud seats up against the rear of the hub. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN IT or you will stress/stretch the stud and it will eventually fail. I tighten it until it seats and then torque it to 85 lb/ft.
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DANOLAND has a DIY on front stud removal here:
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm
Good Luck.
Chris
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm
Good Luck.
Chris
The fronts I take off, the backs I have done both ways. It is a PITA to take the rear hubs off. I have had to replace studs at the track and when you hammer it out, it comes out pretty easily as all the force is on the stud and not on the bearing. You don't have to wack it that hard.
HA ! I just broke a wheel stud on my car tonight , guess I'll try replacing it , should I get arp ones from summit or dealer part?
should I replace all on that hub or just the busted one?
should I replace all on that hub or just the busted one?
Go ahead and replace all the wheel studs with the extended ARP ones since its not that expensive for a whole set and theyre just as good as the OEM if not stronger from the testimonials i've read.
that way you can run a spacer if needed when you decided to go with big brakes with wide calipers, which they usually are.
its always good to plan ahead. you never know.
that way you can run a spacer if needed when you decided to go with big brakes with wide calipers, which they usually are.
its always good to plan ahead. you never know.
make sure to use a tq wrench every time you do your install wheel lugs.
if you TQ according to factory specs, you will not stretch, strip, brake a stud. Even tq prevents warped rotors and wheels coming off on the highway.
"Its snug" is usually too tight or not tight enough.
what usually happen is people tighten their lugs to the max, it stretches the studs or the threads and when they go to take off the lugs next time it snaps.
then they sit there wondering why the studs broke or worse, the mechanic taking off the wheels get blamed for the stud breaking. On the flip side, the mechanic hammers it in with an impact and send you on your way, when you got to change a flat tire, the stud snaps. no fun for anyone. I had this happen to be before when i took my car to a tire shop.
replacing a stud is no fun and neither is warped rotors.
the extra 2 minutes in tq everything down is well worth the time and effort.
if you TQ according to factory specs, you will not stretch, strip, brake a stud. Even tq prevents warped rotors and wheels coming off on the highway.
"Its snug" is usually too tight or not tight enough.
what usually happen is people tighten their lugs to the max, it stretches the studs or the threads and when they go to take off the lugs next time it snaps.
then they sit there wondering why the studs broke or worse, the mechanic taking off the wheels get blamed for the stud breaking. On the flip side, the mechanic hammers it in with an impact and send you on your way, when you got to change a flat tire, the stud snaps. no fun for anyone. I had this happen to be before when i took my car to a tire shop.
replacing a stud is no fun and neither is warped rotors.
the extra 2 minutes in tq everything down is well worth the time and effort.
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- Joined
- 8 July 2009
- Messages
- 26
I couldn't find any clearance/slack to remove the rear studs without taking out the hub. Do you have any tips?
