The fuel pump priming is pretty easy to hear. If that isn't happening you can test by bypassing the main relay. Instructions in the service manual.
Stranded: 2000 nsx
- Thread starter Mark Deffendall
- Start date
jwmelvin is correct - the pump should be pretty easy to hear. The fuel pump is on the left side of the gas tank and the tank is located in front of the rear wheels (a general description). If you can, get somebody to switch the ignition to the run position while you lean down with your head close to the bottom of the car, just about parallel with the fuel filler door. The fuel pump should emit a very easy to hear whine / whirr for about 2 - 3 seconds. That is the priming pulse. If that is not happening, then you need to investigate why the pump is not running.
You referred to 'main module'. I am guessing that you mean main relay?
If the fuel pump is not priming, one thing you could try is by-passing the fuel pump resistor. There is an off chance that the resistor has failed (pretty remote). If the pump is getting weak or is having problems starting, jumpering the fuel pump resistor will apply a full 12 v to the pump which may help with getting it started. If this does work, its a temporary fix at best. There are several threads which describe how to by-pass / jumper the fuel pump resistor. If the fuel pump is not priming, the best solution would be to do the full diagnosis as per the shop manual.
If you have access to an OBD II code reader, check to see if there are any stored diagnostic codes. A stored code related to the fuel system such as running lean could be an indicator that the fuel pump might be having problems. If you don't have a code reader, the 2000 still has the service check connector which I think can be used to trigger the DTC code flashes on the check engine light; but, counting short and long light flashes is a hassle.
You referred to 'main module'. I am guessing that you mean main relay?
If the fuel pump is not priming, one thing you could try is by-passing the fuel pump resistor. There is an off chance that the resistor has failed (pretty remote). If the pump is getting weak or is having problems starting, jumpering the fuel pump resistor will apply a full 12 v to the pump which may help with getting it started. If this does work, its a temporary fix at best. There are several threads which describe how to by-pass / jumper the fuel pump resistor. If the fuel pump is not priming, the best solution would be to do the full diagnosis as per the shop manual.
If you have access to an OBD II code reader, check to see if there are any stored diagnostic codes. A stored code related to the fuel system such as running lean could be an indicator that the fuel pump might be having problems. If you don't have a code reader, the 2000 still has the service check connector which I think can be used to trigger the DTC code flashes on the check engine light; but, counting short and long light flashes is a hassle.
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I'll order a new ignition switch tomorrow and install it when I get back from a turkey hunting trip in the Everglades. Safe travels.
Mark
Mark
Aliminsx,
I have a 2000 white NSX. I sold really nice 1961 MGA and 1958 100-6 Austin Healey I had restored over 25 years. My wife didn't like to ride in them anymore. She said she smelled like gas and oil after a ride. We originally met when I had just bought a new 1978 280Z Black Pearl Edition. I wanted to have a unique car where carrying tools around wasn't a neccesity. I found this car after a short search. It was near Louisville, Ky. 47,000 miles and immaculate. All original. I've had it 4 1/2 years. I live near Nashville, Tn.
ill order an ignition tomorrow from Augusta Acura. 30% off list to NSX owners plus shipping. Nice people.
Mark
I have a 2000 white NSX. I sold really nice 1961 MGA and 1958 100-6 Austin Healey I had restored over 25 years. My wife didn't like to ride in them anymore. She said she smelled like gas and oil after a ride. We originally met when I had just bought a new 1978 280Z Black Pearl Edition. I wanted to have a unique car where carrying tools around wasn't a neccesity. I found this car after a short search. It was near Louisville, Ky. 47,000 miles and immaculate. All original. I've had it 4 1/2 years. I live near Nashville, Tn.
ill order an ignition tomorrow from Augusta Acura. 30% off list to NSX owners plus shipping. Nice people.
Mark
Can the Prime community have some pictures of the aforementioned 2000 white NSX? If your troubles aren't solved with the new ignition, I'm sure someone here wouldn't mind taking your car off of your hands and diagnosing it themselves.
I don't have a lot of experience posting to any type of a forum. I have a picture on my profile but it didn't appear on my posts. How do you do that?
With respect to letting someone else take it off my hands I think I can work through this stalling problem. If you don't enjoy working on older cars then you are in the wrong hobby. I restored a 1961 MGA and 1958 Austin Healey 100-6 over 25 years. Although with NSX's being considerably more technical, the help in the NSX Community makes it interesting and fun.
With respect to letting someone else take it off my hands I think I can work through this stalling problem. If you don't enjoy working on older cars then you are in the wrong hobby. I restored a 1961 MGA and 1958 Austin Healey 100-6 over 25 years. Although with NSX's being considerably more technical, the help in the NSX Community makes it interesting and fun.
I replaced the main module and the ignition switch. I drove 10 minutes and parked. After 2 hours I came out and the starter turned over but the engine failed to achieve ignition and sustained operation. I left the car in the parking lot ( I was at church) and when I came back in the morning the car started right up. As I drove home (3 miles) it seemed the car had some hesitation and I was concerned that I would not make it home. As I pulled in the garage the engine died (all the dashboard lights were still on) and again the engine failed to achieve ignition and sustained operation. It failed to start the next morning and when I listened for the fuel pump priming, "I don't think" I heard it. I think. This morning it started right up, and I now think I recognize the 2-3 second pulse of the fuel pump. As I try to diagnose the problems, since it is intermittent, I can only run my diagnostics when it is broken down in a parking lot or after it gets towed home, but after a day or two, the car starts. This has been going on for 8 months. I plan to remove the ground, clean it and reinstall, but it would seem that if it was the ground, the dashboard lights wouldn't be on. I can get an OBD II and keep it in the trunk for the next time it fails. Will it give me a code when I crank it and it won't start?
I don't ever recall seeing a code that would relate to the fuel pump failing to start. The OBDII system is primarily an emissions compliance system (anything that would cause the engine to drift out of compliance will generate a code). An engine with a pump that fails to start generates no emissions, so no code. If the pump is becoming weak, it can fail to develop adequate fuel pressure under high engine load which can result in a lean fuel mix which would likely trigger one of the mixture out of range error codes. A lot of the codes have a repeat threshold, they have to occur 2 or 3 times before the check engine light comes on. So, it is possible for you to have a code stored without having the check engine light on. But, you have been living with this problem long enough that if the pump was causing a lean condition I would have expected the check engine light to come on by now. The other thing to factor in is that a weak pump may only generate a lean condition under high engine output. If you are just driving around, the lean condition may never materialize and there may be no associated codes. So, short answer is if you don't have one, I would not bother buying a the code reader. Chances are the code reader will not reveal anything. Also, if you check the service manual, you can retrieve any stored codes using the service check connector. Its a bit of a hassle to use, counting short and long light flashes; but, zero cost.
I have a suggestion for a possible test. Do the test by turning the ignition switch to on and listen for the pump to prime (don't start the engine). If the pump primes, switch back to off and wait 30 seconds or so and then repeat the test. The objective is to see if you can trigger a failure of the pump to prime. How many time you repeat this test is subjective. If it primes 10 times in a row, I would probably be inclined to stop the test and then retry on a different day. At some point, if you can't trigger a failure of the pump, it may be time to move on to considering some other point of failure. When doing this test, it may be advisable to unplug the fuel injector resistors (not the fuel pump resistor). Some fuel injection systems 'burp' the fuel line by opening the injectors briefly during the priming pulse. This is separate form the injections taking place during cranking. I don't know whether the NSX EFI does this burp during priming; but, if it does, you don't need to be repeatedly squirting a bunch of raw gas into the cylinders when testing the pump. Pulling the injector resistor plug will prevent the injectors from opening and potentially squirting gas into the cylinders.
I have a suggestion for a possible test. Do the test by turning the ignition switch to on and listen for the pump to prime (don't start the engine). If the pump primes, switch back to off and wait 30 seconds or so and then repeat the test. The objective is to see if you can trigger a failure of the pump to prime. How many time you repeat this test is subjective. If it primes 10 times in a row, I would probably be inclined to stop the test and then retry on a different day. At some point, if you can't trigger a failure of the pump, it may be time to move on to considering some other point of failure. When doing this test, it may be advisable to unplug the fuel injector resistors (not the fuel pump resistor). Some fuel injection systems 'burp' the fuel line by opening the injectors briefly during the priming pulse. This is separate form the injections taking place during cranking. I don't know whether the NSX EFI does this burp during priming; but, if it does, you don't need to be repeatedly squirting a bunch of raw gas into the cylinders when testing the pump. Pulling the injector resistor plug will prevent the injectors from opening and potentially squirting gas into the cylinders.
If you want see if you have a code stored without buying a code reader, most auto parts stores will plug in a code reader and read them for free. Also, if you have a repair shop or friendly dealer that you regularly deal with, they will often read codes for you.
Thanks. Where do I find the injector resistor plug?
My neighbor has an OBD II reader. I'll see if I get any code but I can also keep it in the car for when it breaks down again.
Page 11-3 of the 1997 - 2005 .pdf version of the service manual which you can find here
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Service_manuals#Electronic_Copies_of_the_Service_Manual
The service manual refers to the injector resistor location for the automatic transmission version of the car (C30). It looks like Honda changed things and deleted the external injector resistors when they brought out the 3.2 engine. However, the wiring harness is the same and the plug for the injector resistor is still present in the same location, it just looks like Honda inserted a shorting block into the plug. I went out and looked at my car and the plug is the top one on the passenger side fender well which now looks like nothing is plugged into it - if you have a manual transmission car. If you have an auto, the external resistor block will still be there. I did not remove it to confirm; but, it looks like the shorting plug should be easily removable from the plug.
If you want to be sure before poking around in things, try a PM to Larry Batanza. I am sure that he could confirm whether the shorting block is easily removable from the injector resistor plug on manual transmission cars.
Any updates?
Final diagnosis???
My car has had issues firing up sometimes recently......usually I'd just wait a few minutes and cross my fingers then it would fire up.
Car sat in garage about a week and now it just won't fire up. Going to replace relay and hope that is the problem.
Luckily it happened at home instead of being stranded somewhere :wink:
Final diagnosis???
My car has had issues firing up sometimes recently......usually I'd just wait a few minutes and cross my fingers then it would fire up.
Car sat in garage about a week and now it just won't fire up. Going to replace relay and hope that is the problem.
Luckily it happened at home instead of being stranded somewhere :wink:
Sounds like mine recently. I don't drive it much, but it went from running like a top to your symptoms overnight. Turned out to be the main relay. 15 minutes and my highly submarginal soldering skills and all is well.
How are things up in Temecula today? I'm about 10-15 miles southeast of the Lilac Fire in Fallbrook and whilst that is a long way away for the fire, a forecast for rain would be nice about now. A friend of a friend in Murietta lost their house yesterday. A shame.
This thread and others made me think of a flowchart for diagnosing these issues. Something like this:
I made it on draw.io and am happy to update based on suggestions.
http://bit.ly/2kePyVk
I made it on draw.io and am happy to update based on suggestions.
http://bit.ly/2kePyVk
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^brilliant idea
Luckily all good here in Temecula, hope all is well elsewhere...such a shame about your friends house.
Nick(applied motorsports) said he'd order me a new relay and come by to install it, but sounds like a solder job will work.
You available??:wink::biggrin:
Someone needs to post a how to video , maybe there is one on YouTube? I'll check it out thanks!
If you are talking about a how-to for the main relay repair, there is a thread on Prime with pictures showing reflowing of the solder joints on the relay. No video - a video of solder melting would be as useful as a video of paint drying. The thread is probably 3 - 4 years old so you may have to go pretty far back through the search listing.
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[MENTION=28830]jwmelvin[/MENTION] , that is a great flowchart. Next time someone asks the question, whether here or on the FB NSX Owners Group, I’ll post this image up as a reply. I once had this question, myself. Old car problems....
After a long period of frustration that kept me away from resolving this problem with my 2000 NSX, I have a new hope and determination to keep working until an answer is found to correct the problem. I am grateful for your ideas and interest to help me.
In prior attempts to repair the car, I installed a new main relay, which is, I assume, the same thing as a PGM-F1 main relay, as well as a new ignition switch. I had found around 10 electrical grounds around the car, cleaning and then tightening them. I replaced the main ground wire from the battery to the body. I purchased a new (in the clear wrapper) original Acura NSX Service Manual 1997, ($150+-) and an Acura NSX Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual ’97-’02 ($45 +-). Reviewing the electrical section of the Manual, I found the location and item designation of all 25 ground locations. I’ll clean and reinstall each ground to insure I’m not overlooking the basic function of the electrical grounds on the car.
Here is the latest update. I have done the following tests:
1. With an OBD II tester, I found no trouble codes showing.
2. Installed the electric Glowshift fuel pressure gauge into the cockpit area. At idle, it reads 42 PSI which is the same reading I got from the Marsh mechanical gauge.
3. I performed the fuel pressure regulator test on p. 11-33 and 11-137 of the ’97 NSX service manual, clamping the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. My reading with the hose clamped, engine running was 52 PSI. The specified range was 47-53 PSI. When the hose was connected to the regulator, the pressure was 42 PSI. Normal range specified is 36-44 PSI. Both times, the pressure was within the normal range.
4. After an overnight rest, I turned the ignition switch on (II), the Glowshift fuel pressure gauge read 46 PSI. After starting the car, idle pressure is 42/43 PSI.
(The prior Marsh fuel gauge gave me a pressure leak down reading of 20 PSI after 1 minute and 2 PSI after 2 minutes.)
When the engine quits running and fails to start, I’m either stuck on the side of the road, in a parking lot, or in my garage after the car has been towed home. I’ve been stranded 6 times. I’ve started driving my car again, but I’m expecting a breakdown so I’m only driving in the morning or early afternoon so I can perform tests while it won’t start. If it still won’t start, I want to tow it home before dark.
On page 11-42 of the Service Manual, it lists Troubleshooting Procedures for “Engine will not start.” The “Probable Cause” are 4,2,3,5,19,13,1. The first item, 4, is Ignition System, which I hope I can eliminate after the fuel system. Am I to assume these Probable Causes are listed in the order that they should be addressed? Can fuel/spark can be addressed simultaneously?
Here are the tests I plan to perform when the engine quits running and fails to start:
1. Turn the engine on and listen for the 2-3 second pulse of the fuel pump as well as examine the Glowshift fuel pressure gauge.
2. Try to start the engine with the spare key to make sure the immobilizer control unit is not engaging with my primary key. (Acura dealer suggestion)
After testing for fuel pressure which I believe I can now confirm with the audible test as well as the GlowShift fuel pressure gauge, the Manual indicates the next test would be the fuel pump relay. This test is complicated and involves a vacuum pump if there is battery voltage to the ECM. This is an additionally complicated diagnostic if there is no voltage to the ECM, and includes the risk of damaging the ECM if I do it incorrectly.
I assume that if I have correct fuel pressure, the problem could lie in the ignition/spark. Should I address the spark at this point?
Are there any additional baseline tests at this junction that I should perform related to fuel?
Some of the tests are a little complicated for me, checking voltage with a tester or jumping pin connections with a jumper wire like the fuel pump resistor test.
In summary, when I break down again, I can diagnose that I do have fuel pressure, so I think I need to know what test to do to evaluate whether I have ignition/spark.
If I don’t have fuel pressure, I need to know what tests I can do before it starts to run again, to diagnose whether the fuel pump or the main relay (new) or the ECM failed.
I don’t know where to go from here, so I’d appreciate any technical ideas you have.
In prior attempts to repair the car, I installed a new main relay, which is, I assume, the same thing as a PGM-F1 main relay, as well as a new ignition switch. I had found around 10 electrical grounds around the car, cleaning and then tightening them. I replaced the main ground wire from the battery to the body. I purchased a new (in the clear wrapper) original Acura NSX Service Manual 1997, ($150+-) and an Acura NSX Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual ’97-’02 ($45 +-). Reviewing the electrical section of the Manual, I found the location and item designation of all 25 ground locations. I’ll clean and reinstall each ground to insure I’m not overlooking the basic function of the electrical grounds on the car.
Here is the latest update. I have done the following tests:
1. With an OBD II tester, I found no trouble codes showing.
2. Installed the electric Glowshift fuel pressure gauge into the cockpit area. At idle, it reads 42 PSI which is the same reading I got from the Marsh mechanical gauge.
3. I performed the fuel pressure regulator test on p. 11-33 and 11-137 of the ’97 NSX service manual, clamping the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. My reading with the hose clamped, engine running was 52 PSI. The specified range was 47-53 PSI. When the hose was connected to the regulator, the pressure was 42 PSI. Normal range specified is 36-44 PSI. Both times, the pressure was within the normal range.
4. After an overnight rest, I turned the ignition switch on (II), the Glowshift fuel pressure gauge read 46 PSI. After starting the car, idle pressure is 42/43 PSI.
(The prior Marsh fuel gauge gave me a pressure leak down reading of 20 PSI after 1 minute and 2 PSI after 2 minutes.)
When the engine quits running and fails to start, I’m either stuck on the side of the road, in a parking lot, or in my garage after the car has been towed home. I’ve been stranded 6 times. I’ve started driving my car again, but I’m expecting a breakdown so I’m only driving in the morning or early afternoon so I can perform tests while it won’t start. If it still won’t start, I want to tow it home before dark.
On page 11-42 of the Service Manual, it lists Troubleshooting Procedures for “Engine will not start.” The “Probable Cause” are 4,2,3,5,19,13,1. The first item, 4, is Ignition System, which I hope I can eliminate after the fuel system. Am I to assume these Probable Causes are listed in the order that they should be addressed? Can fuel/spark can be addressed simultaneously?
Here are the tests I plan to perform when the engine quits running and fails to start:
1. Turn the engine on and listen for the 2-3 second pulse of the fuel pump as well as examine the Glowshift fuel pressure gauge.
2. Try to start the engine with the spare key to make sure the immobilizer control unit is not engaging with my primary key. (Acura dealer suggestion)
After testing for fuel pressure which I believe I can now confirm with the audible test as well as the GlowShift fuel pressure gauge, the Manual indicates the next test would be the fuel pump relay. This test is complicated and involves a vacuum pump if there is battery voltage to the ECM. This is an additionally complicated diagnostic if there is no voltage to the ECM, and includes the risk of damaging the ECM if I do it incorrectly.
I assume that if I have correct fuel pressure, the problem could lie in the ignition/spark. Should I address the spark at this point?
Are there any additional baseline tests at this junction that I should perform related to fuel?
Some of the tests are a little complicated for me, checking voltage with a tester or jumping pin connections with a jumper wire like the fuel pump resistor test.
In summary, when I break down again, I can diagnose that I do have fuel pressure, so I think I need to know what test to do to evaluate whether I have ignition/spark.
If I don’t have fuel pressure, I need to know what tests I can do before it starts to run again, to diagnose whether the fuel pump or the main relay (new) or the ECM failed.
I don’t know where to go from here, so I’d appreciate any technical ideas you have.
I am not sure how Honda assigned the order for that list of causes for 'Engine will not start'. Anecdotal evidence from NSX Prime forums would suggest that as the cars age the Main FI relay should be at the very top of the list as a probable cause. The list has it as the third item to check. It also lists the clutch interlock as the second last item to check for fail to start and again the infamous plastic clutch interlock actuating button (commonly known as the f*****g clutch interlock button by anybody who has had to replace it) is an anecdotally common failure point as is the ignition switch. Those causes are appropriately at the top of jwmelvin's troubleshooting flow chart. The original cause list was probably generated as check points for a 'newish' car where normal component aging was not a factor. We are now dealing with component aging which changes the probability of things that can stop the car.
As I recall from your posts, when your car does start it runs fine. That suggests that causes 4 (ignition system), 5 (CKP CYP sensor), 19 (contaminated fuel), 13 (clutch interlock), 1 (ECM) are likely not the cause. If it was 13 it would never start and if it was the others you should have driveability symptoms. That comment does not rule out the possibility that you have something like a bad / intermittent electrical connection which is causing the ignition system or ECM to be inoperative on occasion.
You ask about testing the fuel pump relay. In 'NSX speak' the fuel pump relay is the relay that by-passes the fuel pump resistor. The fuel pump is switched on by the PGM-FI (main relay) that you have replaced, not the fuel pump relay. Failure of the fuel pump (resistor by-pass) relay should not disable the car. It will result in low fuel pressure and bad operation under high engine load (pedal to the metal). Failure of the actual fuel pump resistor will prevent the car from starting. However, I would expect a failed resistor to stay failed rather than fail intermittently. Taking the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump resistor out of the equation for testing purposes is relatively easy. All you need to do is by-pass the resistor with a suitable shunt. If you search NSX Prime for fuel pump resistor by-pass I suspect you will find a couple of threads with pictures showing the location of the resistor and the connecting plug and how to by-pass the resistor. By-passing is relatively easy to do.
You noted that you have installed the remote electric fuel pressure gauge. If the gauge indicates that your fuel pressure is in spec when the engine fails to start, then you have taken failure of the fuel supply system out of the equation and it is time to start looking at the ignition system and the ECM, probably focusing on intermittent electrical problems. If the fuel pressure gauge indicates no or inadequate fuel pressure you will need to check for voltage to the pump. The test point is easy (just use the fuel pump by-pass resistor plug); however, the test is complicated by the fact that you need to test for voltage while the fuel pump is getting its 2-3 second prime pulse. In a failed start that is the only time that voltage is applied to the pump so you need somebody to turn the key and somebody in the engine bay with a voltmeter watching for voltage or temporarily connect a 12 volt test light to the test point and string it into the cockpit so that you can watch it when you turn the key.
The dealer's suggestion about using the spare key is interesting. However, two things. If the key is working correctly the immobilizer indicator light on the dash will come on for 2 seconds and then should go out. If the immobilizer light comes on and then starts blinking after 2 seconds that is an indication that the key code has not been read (key problem) or that there may be a problem with the immobilizer. I also seem to recall that the immobilizer ties into the starter cut relay system so if the chip in the key is not being read or the immobilizer is messed up the starter motor should not engage. If your starter motor is engaging then the immobilizer is likely OK. My service manual is locked up in my NSX which is locked up in secure storage so I can't confirm the bit about the immobilizer blocking the starter motor. You could check your service manual to confirm that. However, if the indicator light is giving you the correct indication and the starter motor is engaging I think your key and immobilizer system is probably OK.
As I recall from your posts, when your car does start it runs fine. That suggests that causes 4 (ignition system), 5 (CKP CYP sensor), 19 (contaminated fuel), 13 (clutch interlock), 1 (ECM) are likely not the cause. If it was 13 it would never start and if it was the others you should have driveability symptoms. That comment does not rule out the possibility that you have something like a bad / intermittent electrical connection which is causing the ignition system or ECM to be inoperative on occasion.
You ask about testing the fuel pump relay. In 'NSX speak' the fuel pump relay is the relay that by-passes the fuel pump resistor. The fuel pump is switched on by the PGM-FI (main relay) that you have replaced, not the fuel pump relay. Failure of the fuel pump (resistor by-pass) relay should not disable the car. It will result in low fuel pressure and bad operation under high engine load (pedal to the metal). Failure of the actual fuel pump resistor will prevent the car from starting. However, I would expect a failed resistor to stay failed rather than fail intermittently. Taking the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump resistor out of the equation for testing purposes is relatively easy. All you need to do is by-pass the resistor with a suitable shunt. If you search NSX Prime for fuel pump resistor by-pass I suspect you will find a couple of threads with pictures showing the location of the resistor and the connecting plug and how to by-pass the resistor. By-passing is relatively easy to do.
You noted that you have installed the remote electric fuel pressure gauge. If the gauge indicates that your fuel pressure is in spec when the engine fails to start, then you have taken failure of the fuel supply system out of the equation and it is time to start looking at the ignition system and the ECM, probably focusing on intermittent electrical problems. If the fuel pressure gauge indicates no or inadequate fuel pressure you will need to check for voltage to the pump. The test point is easy (just use the fuel pump by-pass resistor plug); however, the test is complicated by the fact that you need to test for voltage while the fuel pump is getting its 2-3 second prime pulse. In a failed start that is the only time that voltage is applied to the pump so you need somebody to turn the key and somebody in the engine bay with a voltmeter watching for voltage or temporarily connect a 12 volt test light to the test point and string it into the cockpit so that you can watch it when you turn the key.
The dealer's suggestion about using the spare key is interesting. However, two things. If the key is working correctly the immobilizer indicator light on the dash will come on for 2 seconds and then should go out. If the immobilizer light comes on and then starts blinking after 2 seconds that is an indication that the key code has not been read (key problem) or that there may be a problem with the immobilizer. I also seem to recall that the immobilizer ties into the starter cut relay system so if the chip in the key is not being read or the immobilizer is messed up the starter motor should not engage. If your starter motor is engaging then the immobilizer is likely OK. My service manual is locked up in my NSX which is locked up in secure storage so I can't confirm the bit about the immobilizer blocking the starter motor. You could check your service manual to confirm that. However, if the indicator light is giving you the correct indication and the starter motor is engaging I think your key and immobilizer system is probably OK.
Thanks Neil. Ill get more information the next time the car breaks down.
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