StopTech AeroRotors

Joined
3 September 2002
Messages
503
Location
West Vancouver, BC
This August I installed a set of AeroRotors. The rotors are manufactured by StopTech and sold directly ($450)or by Dali Racing ($415). My only question is why doesn't Acura/Honda have these as OEM? These are the brakes that every NSX should come with!

The AeroRotor has a number of things going for it which together make these rotors far superior to OEM.

Firstly, they have aluminum hats. So they weigh about 2 pounds less per rotor. This is a significant savings. Adn it is always great to reduce the unsprung weight - especially if you want to enhance the already great handling of an NSX.

Secondly, they have advanced internal cooling vanes. I used them in a two day, high speed track event and there was never even a hint of fade. The real test will come in October when I do a one day event at my home track which is better known as a 'brake buster'. But so far I have no doubts.

Thirdly, they are slotted. So they dissipate the gas generated by heavy braking. Martha says 'that is a good thing'.

Fourthly, they are an inexpensive alternative to big brakes. While I would love a set of Brembos. I do not want to spend the big bucks to buy a big brake kit, not to mention the new wheels and tires that are required. I smile every time I think about how cheap a new set of OEM 15 / 16 s are and how much performance I get out of them compared to the 17/18s or, let's not go there, the 18/19s that some put on their NSXs. Save your money and use it to buy some AeroRotors instead!

While I was having the rotors installed I had stainless brake lines installed and the front dust shields removed. - Why did I not get the stainless lines before? They made a huge difference in pedal feel. Gone is the mush (which I even had with new brake fluid). Now I have a firm pedal. Firm is good. Mush is bad.
- As for the dust shields, take a look at the Brembos on a McLaren F1 road car. They don't have any dust shields! So why should the car that inspired the F1? Just stay off of the gravel roads (duh) and go easy in the heavy rain. You don't need the shields. And your brake fluid will not boil and your brakes will like you. Once you have gone bare brakes, you will never go back.

Great feel. Great stopping. Great brakes. Thanks, MJ and Dali Racing.

And thanks StopTech. I love your brakes.


[This message has been edited by NSX Maven (edited 09 October 2002).]

[This message has been edited by NSX Maven (edited 09 October 2002).]
 
You didn't even mention the biggest advantage of the StopTech rotors: their two-piece design.

Conventional one-piece rotors are a flat disk. During braking - particularly track usage - the outer "ring" part of the rotor heats up from the friction with the brake pads, and the entire rotor heats up. However, while the outer ring expands a lot with heat, it is still fixed to the inner "hat" part of the rotor. The rotor cannot expand uniformly because the ring and the hub are one piece, and cracks develop in the ring.

With the two-piece aerorotors, the ring is a separate piece from the hat. The two are connected by hardware that moves, allowing the outer ring to expand with heat without a firm attachment to the inner hat. Thus these rotors are much less susceptible to cracking than one-piece rotors.

One other advantage is that you can replace the outer ring portion without needing to replace the hat portion every time.

[This message has been edited by nsxtasy (edited 20 September 2002).]
 
Just bought a pair but haven't installed them yet. Waiting for next season and looking forward to it.
 
I have the Dali "Brembo OEM" sized rotors on my 91' They have survived 4 track weekends and have held up flawlessly. I use them with the RM pads and have the stainless Dali lines, ATE Super Blue fluid, Dali big brake ducts, and removed shields and have been extremely pleased with the resistance to fade and the costs of this setup.

What is the cost for a set of 4 rotors from StopTech? What is the cost for the replacement outer part? If/when the Brembo OEM rotors give out - and how they give out - may influence my decision to replace them with the same or something different like this.

Thanks for posting this info and the others who provided usefull knowledge. Track braking can be a real pain in the rear and going up to a big brake kit with new wheels and tires can really brake the piggy bank.
 
Originally posted by Kirthasa:
Oops - I was looking under Big Brake Kits. So, the rotors make that big a difference?

Yes, they do. The sophisticated internal vaning and two piece design is head and shoulders above the OEM rotor.

When you are installing the rotors make sure to put on good hi-perf pads too. I used TechnoFrenos from Italy. They were designed for the Subaru Impreza WRC and are awesome 21st Century technology.

Also install stainless lines. You won't believe the difference in pedal feel. It is HUGE.

[This message has been edited by NSX Maven (edited 09 October 2002).]
 
Originally posted by Kirthasa:
So, where did you pick them up? I don't see the kit offered on StopTech's website.

You can also get them direct from StopTech, although the kit price on their website is higher than Dali's.

Go to "High Performance Rotors". Select "2 Piece AeroRotor Kits" for the kit containing both pieces (the outer disc and hat), or "2 Piece AeroRotor Discs" for the outer discs only.

The '91-96 NSX front uses the 282 mm x 28 mm disc. They're available with solid face, or slotted, or drilled, and with a black hat or a black anodized hat. $450/pair on the website.

Replacement discs are $93 solid face, $126.50 slotted, $136.50 drilled (each, double these prices for a pair).
If you're ordering the outer discs only, you'll also want to order a set of the iconel hardware to fasten them - and I'm not sure but I don't think the hardware is on the website, so you may want to communicate with them via telephone or e-mail when ordering replacements.

I don't think they're available in the rear, but I must say that while I have had problems in the past with brake shudder and cracking rotors in the front, I have never, ever had any problems with the rear brakes. I have perhaps 40 track events on my current set of one-piece rear rotors and they're still doing just fine.

[This message has been edited by nsxtasy (edited 09 October 2002).]
 
Originally posted by RyRy210:
Does anyone know where I can get something similar for 97+ NSXs?

Science of Speed www.scienceofspeed.com sells a two piece rear brake but it too is only for the '91-'96 NSX.


[This message has been edited by NSX Maven (edited 09 October 2002).]

[This message has been edited by NSX Maven (edited 09 October 2002).]
 
I've read conflicting views on whether or not the slotted rotors are worth doing. I had drilled rotors and cracked them (although I got probably 7 track weekends out of them) and now I'm using PowerSlot rotors. Some say that the slots and cross-drilling is just for looks and doesn't really do anything. Can anyone with lots of track experience comment on: "Is it worth spending extra for the slotted rotors if they are more susceptible to cracking"?
 
I have used slotted rotors, cross-drilled rotors, and solid-faced rotors on my NSX, with the same usage pattern (primarily track events) on all three. I have cracked all three types. I have not noticed any difference in durability (longevity) from one type to another.
 
Originally posted by NSX Maven:
While I was having the rotors installed I had the front dust shields removed.
As for the dust shields, take a look at the Brembos on a McLaren F1 road car. They don't have any dust shields!

I suggest you do a search on this in the NSXSC forums, and you find out the true reasons these shields are there.

Ah, here it is.... http://www.nsxsc.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000779.html

Mich


[This message has been edited by DutchBlackNsx (edited 10 October 2002).]
 
Originally posted by nsxtasy:
I have used slotted rotors, cross-drilled rotors, and solid-faced rotors on my NSX, with the same usage pattern (primarily track events) on all three. I have cracked all three types. I have not noticed any difference in durability (longevity) from one type to another.

So is it worth spending the extra money? For me, only if it improves performance. Did you see a difference in performance between the solid and slotted?
 
Originally posted by DONYMO:
So is it worth spending the extra money? For me, only if it improves performance. Did you see a difference in performance between the solid and slotted?

If you're using one-piece rotors, the PowerSlot slotted rotors are less expensive than the OEM solid-faced rotors.

I had shudder problems with the solid-faced OEM rotors. I no longer had those problems with the PowerSlot slotted rotors but I think it's more likely that other changes I made are responsible for eliminating the shudder, rather than just the slots.

For one-piece rotors, I liked the PowerSlot rotors. For two-piece rotors, talk to the folks where you're getting them and ask their advice.
 
Originally posted by DutchBlackNsx:
I suggest you do a search on this in the NSXSC forums, and you find out the true reasons these shields are there.

I had. And this is what two posters said:

1st:"John Vasos (Service Mgr at Acura of Brookfield), noted that these guards also act as heat shields and he's noticing a number of cars that have had the guards removed are coming in with failed ball joints due to the excess heat.

2nd:"Vasos did say he had some ball joints to replace because of heat, but these were on cars that were tracked ALL the time, like the Brookfield sponsor car. Bob Butler verified in class that he's never heard of a mostly street car losing the front ball joints do to heat with the dust shields removed."

So one cannot conclude that removal of the dust shields should never be done. It can be done and brake cooling will be improved - but be sure to really cool your brakes down after each lapping session to avoid cooking the ball joints and dust covers.

Common sense dictates that any time one uses their car on the track maintenance levels must be increased.
 
On my car, I still have the splash shields. I had a hole cut in them and a flange welded around the hole. That's where my cooling ducts are mounted. That way, I kept the shields AND improved brake cooling.
biggrin.gif
 
I don't have pics handy. The ducts are two-inch diameter. They go from the lower part of the NSX air dam (above the chin spoiler, using one of the existing openings), squeeeeze alongside the lower corner of the radiator just above the core support, strapped to the control arms and onto the flange. The two-inch diameter is due to the limited space as it passes alongside the radiator.
 
Originally posted by MvM:
1) Will do AeroRotoers, being partially made of alu-alloy, hold out as long as the steel ones?

Yes, longer.

Originally posted by MvM:
2) What is their performance compared with other options (stock, AP, Tarox, Brembo)

There are many dimensions of performance. Braking systems can't stop your car shorter than your tires will let you. But if heat builds up, such as on the racetrack, some will extend those distances due to brake fade and others will encounter problems like shudder and rotor cracking.

In my experience, the performance of the Stoptech rotors is better than braking systems using a one-piece rotor, such as the stock ones. The systems that use two-piece rotors and larger calipers ought to be better, but even those are not immune to shudder and/or cracking.

Originally posted by MvM:
3) Why are they only availabe in the smaller size. Wouldn't a bigger disk diameter give even better performance?

They are available in various sizes for different cars. Of course, they have to evaluate potential demand in deciding which sizes to make. They are not making their brakes only for the NSX. If you want a bigger disc diameter, get one of the various big brake kits offered for the NSX by various vendors.

Originally posted by MvM:
4) If you upgrade your front brakes to a better performing set, should you not also upgrade the rears to keep your car in balance ?

I haven't found it to be necessary. The car stays "in balance" by having brakes at both ends of the car that are resistant to shudder and cracking problems. The balance of the car in braking is fine.
 
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