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- 7 January 2013
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- 361
Step By Step DIY Fuel Pump job with pictures
I did a search before doing this fuel pump job, and I found some help but nothing that would really assist. So I decided to take pictures of the job I did over the weekend of installing my Walbro fuel pump. This is my first DIY write up, so I may miss a few steps or forget to say something. I’ll do my best to update it if someone points something out. Please read the service manual before doing any of this. I’m sharing my experience and in no way consider myself an expert. P.S. I've tried for a while to get the picture scaled right, but I swear its goes crazy sometimes. I apologize for the odd sizing, late tonight I'll try edit them to be more alligned.
Tools you’ll need
Wrenches and sockets of 10mm 12mm 14mm and 17mm, including a few deep sockets and extensions
Pliers
Impact Gun
Wire splicers and crimpers etc. (any electrical equipment you prefer)
Screw Driver
Hydraulic Jack with stands
Patience
First you will need to get the car up pretty high on jack stands; I had it up high enough so that I could turn on my shoulder while under the car. Be safe when doing this. The car gets really high so take your time, especially when bringing it back down.
I decided to work under the car first, first you undo the bracket that is securing the shifter cables in place.
Now remove the covers that are hiding the ends of the shifter cables.
After you remove the covers, and expose the ends, it is now time to remove the cotter pins and lift off the cables. I had to use a tiny flat head to get the pins loose and in some cases a pliers will work perfectly. After they are removed move them to the side and out of the way.
Now you have to remove the fuel lines on the drivers’ side. This is a PITA, but with the right tools it took me only 15 minutes. You will need a vice grip, at least I recommend one. The clamps that are holding these two lines in place are the pinch type. Also remove any wiring harnesses that are in the way. There is one in particular bolted to the driver side rear inside quarter panel that gets in the way, simply unbolt it and move it to the side. When I reinstalled the lines I used worm gear clamps, just a suggestion.
Now you are done for now with the things under the car, like I said this is just the way I did it, it’d be much more reasonable just to do the top of the car stuff first. Now remove the fuel line off the fuel filter closest to the front of the car. There will be two lines that go to the tank, one has a banjo fitting the other is clamped.
Remove the center line off the canister in the driver side corner of the engine bay. ‘
Remove the panel on the back side of the driver’s seat, and unclip the harness to the sending unit. Remove all interior panels that are in its way.
Next slide a hydraulic jack under the tank, jack it up to where it is applying a little pressure under the tank. Now undo the tie straps and bend them out of the way.
There is still one clamp going to the fuel pump, what I did was slowly jack the passenger side of tank down until there was enough room to slide my hand up on the backside of the tank (front of the car) and unclip the harness from the pump. It will have a rubber boot over it.
Once the two harnesses are unclipped, 3 hoses on the driver’s side (Including the one off the canister), and the 2 fuel lines off the passenger side. Lower the tank and remove it from under the car. (in this picture I turned the tank while I removed it)
Now that the tank is out of the car, give yourself a pat on the back for a job well done. Unbolt the fuel pump and remove from the tank.
Follow the instructions that came with the Walbro, replace all necessary rubber spacers, filters, clips, and re wire making sure you connect the appropriate positive and negative connections.
Simply reverse order to reinstall. DONT FORGET THE WIRING HARNESS WITH THE RUBBER BOOT THAT GOES TO THE PUMP Take your time, watch for snags. This job is much much much more reasonable with a friend or two. I pity the man that has to do this job on his own. Took me and brother 3.5 hours to drop the tank. Be sure to replace washers on the fuel filter, and run the fuel lines when the tank is half way back up. Remember 3 lines on the drivers’ side 2 on the passenger side. I hope this helps somebody!!! If you have any question feel free to PM me.
I did a search before doing this fuel pump job, and I found some help but nothing that would really assist. So I decided to take pictures of the job I did over the weekend of installing my Walbro fuel pump. This is my first DIY write up, so I may miss a few steps or forget to say something. I’ll do my best to update it if someone points something out. Please read the service manual before doing any of this. I’m sharing my experience and in no way consider myself an expert. P.S. I've tried for a while to get the picture scaled right, but I swear its goes crazy sometimes. I apologize for the odd sizing, late tonight I'll try edit them to be more alligned.
Tools you’ll need
Wrenches and sockets of 10mm 12mm 14mm and 17mm, including a few deep sockets and extensions
Pliers
Impact Gun
Wire splicers and crimpers etc. (any electrical equipment you prefer)
Screw Driver
Hydraulic Jack with stands
Patience
First you will need to get the car up pretty high on jack stands; I had it up high enough so that I could turn on my shoulder while under the car. Be safe when doing this. The car gets really high so take your time, especially when bringing it back down.
I decided to work under the car first, first you undo the bracket that is securing the shifter cables in place.
Now remove the covers that are hiding the ends of the shifter cables.
After you remove the covers, and expose the ends, it is now time to remove the cotter pins and lift off the cables. I had to use a tiny flat head to get the pins loose and in some cases a pliers will work perfectly. After they are removed move them to the side and out of the way.
Now you have to remove the fuel lines on the drivers’ side. This is a PITA, but with the right tools it took me only 15 minutes. You will need a vice grip, at least I recommend one. The clamps that are holding these two lines in place are the pinch type. Also remove any wiring harnesses that are in the way. There is one in particular bolted to the driver side rear inside quarter panel that gets in the way, simply unbolt it and move it to the side. When I reinstalled the lines I used worm gear clamps, just a suggestion.
Now you are done for now with the things under the car, like I said this is just the way I did it, it’d be much more reasonable just to do the top of the car stuff first. Now remove the fuel line off the fuel filter closest to the front of the car. There will be two lines that go to the tank, one has a banjo fitting the other is clamped.
Remove the center line off the canister in the driver side corner of the engine bay. ‘
Remove the panel on the back side of the driver’s seat, and unclip the harness to the sending unit. Remove all interior panels that are in its way.
Next slide a hydraulic jack under the tank, jack it up to where it is applying a little pressure under the tank. Now undo the tie straps and bend them out of the way.
There is still one clamp going to the fuel pump, what I did was slowly jack the passenger side of tank down until there was enough room to slide my hand up on the backside of the tank (front of the car) and unclip the harness from the pump. It will have a rubber boot over it.
Once the two harnesses are unclipped, 3 hoses on the driver’s side (Including the one off the canister), and the 2 fuel lines off the passenger side. Lower the tank and remove it from under the car. (in this picture I turned the tank while I removed it)
Now that the tank is out of the car, give yourself a pat on the back for a job well done. Unbolt the fuel pump and remove from the tank.
Follow the instructions that came with the Walbro, replace all necessary rubber spacers, filters, clips, and re wire making sure you connect the appropriate positive and negative connections.
Simply reverse order to reinstall. DONT FORGET THE WIRING HARNESS WITH THE RUBBER BOOT THAT GOES TO THE PUMP Take your time, watch for snags. This job is much much much more reasonable with a friend or two. I pity the man that has to do this job on his own. Took me and brother 3.5 hours to drop the tank. Be sure to replace washers on the fuel filter, and run the fuel lines when the tank is half way back up. Remember 3 lines on the drivers’ side 2 on the passenger side. I hope this helps somebody!!! If you have any question feel free to PM me.
