I'm about to put new plugs in and in other aluminum headed cars I've had it was recommended to use Anti-Sieze on the threads. Is that the case w/ the NSX? Anyone know?
Spark plug question
- Thread starter theman1990
- Start date
I've always used it on spark plug threads and have done so with my NSX. I'm not sure if the manual recommends it or not.
Last edited:
you dont have to use it. just follow TQ guide on the spark plug box
depending on the gasket type usually its when the plug meets the head then 1-2 to 3-4 a turn.
depending on the gasket type usually its when the plug meets the head then 1-2 to 3-4 a turn.
I ALWAYS use anti-seize on spark plugs and use a torque wrench to tighten them. With as many engines with aluminum heads and spark plugs that are steel anit-seize is a must. Strip out ONE spark plug hole and you will be a believer too.
Brad
Brad
What Brad said, plus they make High Temp Anti-Sieze. It's usually called C5-A. It's gold coloured. Any parts store should have it.
NEVER install plugs and most bolts on an NSX, espically on the exhaust system, without it !!
Just a thin coat will do. Don't go hog wild.
Cheers
nigel
NEVER install plugs and most bolts on an NSX, espically on the exhaust system, without it !!
Just a thin coat will do. Don't go hog wild.
Cheers
nigel
with anti seize
you can apply up to 30-40% more torque then recommended due to less friction. 14ftlbs with anti seize and with out is not the same. Reduce TQ specs by 30-40% when using anti seize.
here is the reason not to use anti seize by the book.
"Antiseize compound on thread of spark plugs being installed in an aluminum cylinder head is not recommended because the spark plug will be over tightened. This excessive tightening torque places the threaded portion of the spark plug too far into the combustion chamber where carbon can accumulate and result in the spark plugs being difficult to remove.
if anti seize is used on spark plug threads, reduce the tighteninging torque by 40%. "
if NGK wanted you to use anti seize, they would have told you so on the box.
let me see when was the last time i pulled a plug from the factory with anti seize on it...... wait... never.:wink:
do it right, use a tq wrench or go according to the degree method you wont have to worry about stuck plugs or getting AS all over the place.
for solid tapered gaskets, its 1/4 a turn from where it touches down.
for crush gasket type (our car) its 1-2 to 2-3 of a turn. careful with the crush type once it is installed the first time, you only need 1/4 of a turn the second time since the washer is already crushed and slack taken out by the first install. Treat it like a solid tapered gasket type.
happy motoring.
Last edited:
they strip because they are over tightened to start with. :biggrin:
its easy to over tq with anti seize. people thing they need to tighten the crap out of the spark plugs or they'll pop out... just like a oil filter, you dont need to kill it for it to work.
I don't mean to say it's wrong to not use it just that i've been tightening bolts and screw on vehicles and aircraft for so long I guess I take for granted I compensate by feel using anti-sieze and do realize there's a greater possibility to over torque if your not careful. It's much better to use it in many applications than not.
A cautious note, "if your not careful you can over torque any bolt or screw using anti-sieze so be careful"
Cheers
nigel
A cautious note, "if your not careful you can over torque any bolt or screw using anti-sieze so be careful"
Cheers
nigel
Last edited:
Hi Nigel
do what works. im sure with your years of experience you can definitely tell when something is too tight and is second nature to you.
i wanted to point out that the combination of anti seize and snug enough method or even tq wrench could lead to over TQ.
However if people use anti seize with the degree method, there wont be a problem.
I guess anti seize is not the problem here but rather how it reduces friction and make over torque easier. :smile:
hey, if something has for you for years, don't let me tell you otherwise :wink:
happy motoring!
do what works. im sure with your years of experience you can definitely tell when something is too tight and is second nature to you.
i wanted to point out that the combination of anti seize and snug enough method or even tq wrench could lead to over TQ.
However if people use anti seize with the degree method, there wont be a problem.
I guess anti seize is not the problem here but rather how it reduces friction and make over torque easier. :smile:
hey, if something has for you for years, don't let me tell you otherwise :wink:
happy motoring!
great info-
never even thought about the torque settings changing, then again, i learn my 'bolt snapping' lessons long ago.:wink:
never even thought about the torque settings changing, then again, i learn my 'bolt snapping' lessons long ago.:wink:
im here to put the information out there.
take it or leave it, that's the decision everyone needs to make. :wink:
lol i learned my stud snapping lesson at 15. after having to pull a pressed in honda hub with a slide hammer.... it was tq wrench from then on :tongue: haven't snapped, stretched, stripped another one yet.
take it or leave it, that's the decision everyone needs to make. :wink:
lol i learned my stud snapping lesson at 15. after having to pull a pressed in honda hub with a slide hammer.... it was tq wrench from then on :tongue: haven't snapped, stretched, stripped another one yet.
Last edited:
Similar threads
