sound system

Its all personal taste really - I love the new look & it matches the modern decks - for stock head I would probably keep it orange. It is brighter but still dims with the other dash lights when the parking lights are on at night.
I haven't pulled the radio apart though - its possibly also the same(?)
You can't really go wrong - just be careful after you open it up - everything unscrews or unplugs via a connector to get access, no de-soldering or anything so difficult to damage. Fun little project!
Tip - take your clock out since its easy to do & open it up to get an idea of what you're looking at - you can always just re-assemble it w/o removing the filter screen until you're ready to pull the console to do the Climate Control unit.
Incidentally the display is still protected as there is an outside thicker clear screen that remains intact.

p.s. If you want to get really creative you could play with some different colour films to get a variety of colours & custom match it exactly to your head unit! - they'd be easy to apply.
Mine could maybe use a little purple tinge!
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Re: Re: Re: sound system

D'Ecosse said:
One man's opinion - They're mediocre and frankly the reliability problems alone make them worth replacing.



You can spend a quarter of that & still get a decent quality pair of 6.5" components and amplifier that will out-perform the stock units (albeit not including install) - you simply cannot get the same performance from the tiny midrange bose speaker that you can from a 6.5" plus seperate tweeter.

D'Ecosse,

I agree with you on the deck. I think it sucks. however, the speakers are not as bad as you think. I was able to get much richer and cleanner sound out of the stock speakers. Maybe your 93 had different specs or had more wear and tear.

I believe the processor in the deck make a huge difference. I shopped many installers and spoke to many factory reps. (I used to sell stereos in college). and many of them agreed. You should check the specs on the factory vs. other top makers. You'll be suprised.

All I am saying is that start with the deck and go from there. I've seen many hack jobs and its scary to look at. Most of the top installers will be critacal and opinionated about the sound in the car. Its a hard car to balance.

If you value your car, then don't take short cuts. Seek out the top installers in your area and consult with them, before doing anything.

AS for only spending 1/4 of the price to get a better sound. Hmmm. Lets see the Boston pro's that I wanted to install($600) was not going to sound too much better. I know this, because I was there when the installer hooked it up. You also had to run a decent amp, which is going to run you about $400, plus wiring and labor. I say its goign to be at least$1300 to $1500 job. Remember, I am a sound enthuist. But, wouldn't you want to put in a great system in your NSX vs. avg. system?
 
I think you're maybe getting a little hung-up on my use of the word mediocre - that is not derisory, although often interpreted to be.
Mediocre - of moderate quality, value, ability, or performance : ORDINARY, SO-SO
This does not mean it's bad, just nothing special: middle- of- the- road.
But, wouldn't you want to put in a great system in your NSX vs. avg. system?
That's what confuses me about your comments - you are going from extreme of ordinary, very average sounding stock system to comparing it with Boston Pro! & what I am saying is that the stock system is indeed a very average system & can be improved upon w/o spending $2K
I stand behind my $500 ticket for door speakers & amp only (remember I also qualified without install) - you can easily get a better sounding system - you can buy excellent quality components as mentioned in my original post above - I'm not talking out & out audio-phile competition grade here, just something significantly better than the Bose.

Focal 165V Slim Polyglass retail $400 can be had for $230
or step up a little to
FOCAL 165K2 Poly Kevlar retail $653 can be had for $320

MB Quart PSD-216 6.5 retail $580 can be had for $230

JL Audio Model: XR650-CS retail $400 can be had for $200

Infinity Perect Kappa 6.1 retail $500 can be had for $220

There are endless amplifiers in the $250 range which will give decent outpout to drive speakers as referenced above which I won't even begin to list.
Hifonics Zeus has a fine range of amps in this price range.

When it comes right down to it, however, beauty is in the eye (or ear in this case!) of the beholder - it is pointless you or I debating, K2 or recommending standard equipment against any of the alternatives suggested above - we can only give our personal opinions which are only useful as a starting point. Bottom line is that you need to listen to alternatives directly & decide what works for you. The type of music you listen to plays a bit part in your selection & what may work for one genre may be horrible for another.
 
k2,

I understand what you are saying. I was (am) looking into the 7998, however, that head unit requires an external amp. So either way, would need to get the amp. so i figure upgrade while im at it. Thanks for your reply.
 
donwon said:
k2,

I understand what you are saying. I was (am) looking into the 7998, however, that head unit requires an external amp. So either way, would need to get the amp. so i figure upgrade while im at it. Thanks for your reply.


Donwon,

Alpine CDA7998 is a great unit. Yes, its a tuner and need a amp. However, your stock speakers has built in amp. I went with this deck, because it has a similar processor as my old deck in my integra(Alpine 7909 one of the best for a long time, for old timers)

All I am running is the 7998 and the stock speakers. No amp.

Many of the San Diego and few Orange County NSXer's were blown away by the sound. At least that what they said at that time.

However, you twick your system is up to you. I just wanted to give you some info, before you spend mucho $$$'s.

I've heard few NSX with upgrade stereo system's. Kind of what D'Ecosse described. I was not too impressed. Some them also heard mine and thought there were not too much noticeable differences. The sound you get for $500 upgrade might not be noticeable for you. The biggest issue is the imaging in the car. NSX is not a easy car to balance the imaging.

I happen to stumble onto this setup. Who know, you might find a different setup that will be better.

Good luck
 
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D'Ecosse said:
I think you're maybe getting a little hung-up on my use of the word mediocre - that is not derisory, although often interpreted to be.
Mediocre - of moderate quality, value, ability, or performance : ORDINARY, SO-SO
This does not mean it's bad, just nothing special: middle- of- the- road.

That's what confuses me about your comments - you are going from extreme of ordinary, very average sounding stock system to comparing it with Boston Pro! & what I am saying is that the stock system is indeed a very average system & can be improved upon w/o spending $2K
I stand behind my $500 ticket for door speakers & amp only (remember I also qualified without install) - you can easily get a better sounding system - you can buy excellent quality components as mentioned in my original post above - I'm not talking out & out audio-phile competition grade here, just something significantly better than the Bose.

Focal 165V Slim Polyglass retail $400 can be had for $230
or step up a little to
FOCAL 165K2 Poly Kevlar retail $653 can be had for $320

MB Quart PSD-216 6.5 retail $580 can be had for $230

JL Audio Model: XR650-CS retail $400 can be had for $200

Infinity Perect Kappa 6.1 retail $500 can be had for $220

There are endless amplifiers in the $250 range which will give decent outpout to drive speakers as referenced above which I won't even begin to list.
Hifonics Zeus has a fine range of amps in this price range.

When it comes right down to it, however, beauty is in the eye (or ear in this case!) of the beholder - it is pointless you or I debating, K2 or recommending standard equipment against any of the alternatives suggested above - we can only give our personal opinions which are only useful as a starting point. Bottom line is that you need to listen to alternatives directly & decide what works for you. The type of music you listen to plays a bit part in your selection & what may work for one genre may be horrible for another.


D'Ecosse,

Your right, The beauty is in the eye of a beholder. in this case its the ear.

First, I want to let you that I am not a huge fan of Bose. When my stock speakers blows out, i will replace it with after market speakers.

Yes, I have heard other NSX's with upgraded stereo systems. I was not too impressed. maybe it was not istalled right. Who knows. Those with upgraded system's have heard my stock speakers w/ Alpine CDA7998, were blown away. Many of the San Diego NSXer's said the same, Or at least that what they said that day.

As for your idea of $500 system is not to accurate. Understand the quaityof speakers at that price levelis not too much different than the stock Bose(at least for my 99NSX). And to run avg. amp., would not be great idea on Alpine CDA7998. Understand this deck is one of the better decks in the market today. You would lose clarity if you run this deck to a avg. amp., with a avg. built-in crossover. You have to consider at least $300 to $500 in instalation alone.

I believe Donwon is trying to run Alpine CDA7998.

I am a big fan of music, whether its R&b or rap, I like it to be clean.

D'Ecosse, I don't think we are having a pointless debate. I respect your opinion. Everyone is entitled to it. Who knows, I may learn something for you or others. I am have to have learned about the new B&P's sub. Isn't that what this forum is about? to be better informed.

I hope to run into you at this year's NSXPO in No. Cal. Then you can hear my point and I can hear yours.


Good debating w/you.
 
Stereo head unit.

A couple of questions for you guys who replaced the factory stereo head unit. Did replacing the unit have any effect on your security/alarm system? I noticed in the schematic for the stereo system that the security control unit actually goes through the stereo to ground. I'm guessing that it would have no effect but I'm curious if you have to provide a ground.
Other question: How did you hook up both antennas to the aftermarket head units. I'd like to retain the power antenna and the rear window antenna. Did the unit come with dual antenna leads?
 
Re: Stereo head unit.

NSXpnsv said:
Other question: How did you hook up both antennas to the aftermarket head units. I'd like to retain the power antenna and the rear window antenna. Did the unit come with dual antenna leads?

They tee long before they get to the head - only one plug into the stock (or after-market) head.

Edit - this is incorrect - there are separate inputs to the stock head - SORRY!
 
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K2 said:
D'Ecosse, I don't think we are having a pointless debate. I respect your opinion. Everyone is entitled to it. Who knows, I may learn something for you or others. I am have to have learned about the new B&P's sub. Isn't that what this forum is about? to be better informed. ...
Good debating w/you.
Sorry if I misled - I didn't mean pointless in the sense of the interactive debate - I meant it in the sense that we all have our own persepctive on what sounds good and there is no right or wrong. Like you, other opinions are always welcome to me.
 
Re: Re: Stereo head unit.

D'Ecosse said:
They tee long before they get to the head - only one plug into the stock (or after-market) head.
I appreciate the info (I have a 93 as well) but on page 23-234 of the '91 manual (on this web site) it shows two separate leads plugging into two separate ports. One is male and one is female so you don't mix them up. I'll take your word for it though if you've done it. Maybe they changed it by '93?
Oh, and by the way who the heck is this Forum Nazi? Is he for real or some kind of joke? He told me not to duplicate posts because I posted this same question in the techincal section.
Oh, and let it go with K2. If he likes stock speakers, more power to him.
One last question: where can those stereo items "be had" for the lower prices??
 
Re: Re: Re: Stereo head unit.

NSXpnsv said:
I appreciate the info (I have a 93 as well) but on page 23-234 of the '91 manual (on this web site) it shows two separate leads plugging into two separate ports. One is male and one is female so you don't mix them up.

Thats what I get for thinking!!!! .... I had recalled (it seems incorrectly) that I had seen something about them teeing back at the rear 1/4 - when I now look at the schematics there are indeed separate input feeds to the head. When I replaced my head, I assumed the female one was for the phone - sorry I should have checked rather than speculate (or recall from failing memory!)
The mast antenna cable comes in from the drivers side of the bulhead, while the window antenna lead comes in from the passenger side of the bulkhead: they run as separate cables down the center console to the head unit.
You typically won't find that extra connector on an after market head.

Oh, and by the way who the heck is this Forum Nazi? Is he for real or some kind of joke? He told me not to duplicate posts because I posted this same question in the techincal section.

The forums nazi is the alter-ego of a quite informed senior poster on this board - his advice is brusque (in the style of the Seinfeld character) but usually accurate. It is a general rule of etiquette not to multiple post on NSX-Prime. He also advocates using the search engine (very powerful) to get immediate answers to questions most likely asked previously.
One last question: where can those stereo items "be had" for the lower prices??
E-bay - http://pages.ebay.com/catindex/catcaraudio.html
The majority of the sellers here are web-based businesses & quite reputable - stick with the ones that have high numbers of positive feedback ratings. I used IndoAudio recently, great prices & prompt service/shipment.
There are literally thousands here, so narrow by using the search for the product you are looking for.
The Zeb also has good prices.
 
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Oh, and by the way who the heck is this Forum Nazi?
He was politely letting you know their was already a post with the same subject matter.

I find the factory stereo does just fine for running an aftermarket stereo system.

I bought a set of Image dynamic mids that were able to mount the tweeter in the middle like a coax. So I did not need make custom mounts. They were also 2 ohms so I was able to extract more power out of my amplifier.

Best of luck the aftermarket stereos in the NSX are starting to look nicer. I have yet to find one though that actually looks like it belongs their.
 
I’m in the process of an install using the stock stereo and CD, 4-channell amp a good sub in the fool well and (2) good 5-1/4 in the doors with separate tweeters.

Question is- what’s the difference between high and low inputs on my amp? Low is RCA… I don’t have factory RCA on my stereo. If I use high what ground do I use, and what is done with all of the factory negative speaker outputs?

Thanks
 
K2 will be crushed that you are replacing the speakers rather than the head unit ;)

See this thread for a good tip on integrating your factory harness into an aftermarket set-up with RCA's to the amps.
What you want to do is run the amp with one channel each to the front (door) speakers & bridge the other two channels to run the sub. You could actually just use the left & right channels from the head, ignoring the "sub" outputs, then use an rca "Y" - splitter female to two male ( http://www.millionbuy.com/adbacy2q.html ) at the amp to feed the 4 channel inputs. (You'll need two splitters)
To wire the head output to the RCA cable adapter, the centre core of the wire goes to the "+" signal, while the outside shield goes to the corresponding "-" . Just use a short pigtail adapter at the head (RCA females) then you can use std. RCA (male-male)cable pair of the appropriate length to run to your amp location. (in the pic shown by kpond in the above referenced thread, he has used male RCA adapters because he has taken his cable a very short distance directly to his amp in his footwell location). I haven't seen a direct available RCA adapter - you just need to get a cable with female RCA ends & cut off about 6" plus the connectors & splice them to to the output wires from the head adapter plug. (You could of course splice your long RCA's directly to the head adapter output wires, instead of the pigtail connectors on there first - you can also run a 4 channel rca & use the "sub" outputs then you won't have to use splitters at the amp - my recommendation to go method 1 but your own personal choice)
The high & low refers to frequency response - will be on high for channels for the doors & low for the sub, then you can usually "trim" the cut-off frequencies for each to get an appropriate frequency range into each speaker. i.e. you cut out the low-end bass from going to the doors & the mid & high frequencies from going to the sub.
What kind of amp are you using? If you reference the model I can look it up & get a better idea of the inputs .......
Incidentally, you can easily fit 6 1/2's into the doors to give you fuller mid range response in that area.
 
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Thanks for the fast response! I have seen your posts and have duplicated many of your suggestions. I have both adaptor harnesses, and intended to fab a harness similar to your purple RCA picture.

I wasn’t sure if he amp (Adiobahn) wanted to see all four channels from the stereo, or if two would be the same.
 
RacerX-21 said:
I have both adaptor harnesses, and intended to fab a harness similar to your purple RCA picture.
Credit where due - I provided the links for the harness parts but that pic is result of kpond's work, not mine - make sure you wire the rca's up to the right connector though!
pain.gif
 
IASCA SOUND QUALITY WINNER. K2, the NSX has an excellent sound stage. I use the Eclipse AV8132(Upgraded since pic was taken),Eclipse PA 5532 amp, Eclipse 8" sub(pass footwell), Xtant 6.5 mids, Morel tweets. Its all about having the right equipment, installed properly. Knowing is half the battle;)

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=15636
 
Can anyone verify that removing the red filter in the head unit works the same as the climate control and clock?
 
Install

2 Din Setup fiberglass, custom paint, doors with 6.5 midbass drivers (infinity) with turbo timer, boost controller, valentine 1 display. hopefully attachement works.
Tony
 

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OMFG THAT IS AWESOME! What kind of deck/ dvd player is that?
 
jlindy said:
Can anyone verify that removing the red filter in the head unit works the same as the climate control and clock?
Actually, not quite - on the stock head unit, when you remove the filter, it really exposes a large lcd panel that is quite un-attractive behind the clear face screen (on the clock & AC this is not noticable - I think their screens are more smokey than clear - also there are much larger "open" fields on the head's panel which are exposed, so it needs some "masking" )
We tried to use a blue filter screen (made from one of those binder-divider sheets from Office-Max) on all three to match the APEXi - AVC-R BOOST CONTROLLER but the quality of that film is poor & irregular so the net result was, although the colour blue was really nice, the digits lost definition - looked fuzzy. So, the principle is there - just need to find a better filter medium. Maybe a craft shop would have some better choices.
Anyone have some real-world experiences with where to resource a high-quality coloured plastic film?

Oh - to remove the red film in the head unit - a little more complex - start by following the instructions
Here, (courtesy of Science Of Speed) up to step 9 - then some clarification is needed: the cassette unit needs to be removed in order to get to the "ribbon cords clipped in with the white connectors" (impossible to get to w/o removing the cassette module!); so after you remove the cassete module (pretty obvious, a few screws) then you look at the white connectors on the end of the orange ribbons & that is not immediately obvious how they are removed: however, there is a sleeve component to the white connector - slide that towards the top of the connector - the sleeve is like a lock and when loose, the orange ribbon just slips out (you may have to pull it - don't be afraid as long as you have loosened the sleeve to the unlocked position); repeat for the other ribbon. Now you have the face off, it again should be obvious how to get access to the front of the LCD panel & remove the red film.
Re-assemble in reverse order, remember to re-lock the riibbon connectors after you re-insert the cables!
 
STOCKTONSX
I have the Panasonic CY-VMD900U for CD/DVD/AMFM Radio, HKS CAMP System video display, etc. The lower unit is the Kenwood Z828 CD/MP3 player. There are upgraded versions of both headunits on the streets. But I did all the fiberglass myself and took it to a paint shop for smoothing and painting.
Tony

NSX Twin Turbo
 
Thanks for the prompt reply. It looks really good and extremely professional!

ravi
 
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