Should rear wheels spin freely

cpmoran

cpmoran

Experienced Member
Joined
2 October 2002
Messages
404
Location
va beach va usa
I am getting this strange sound that comes and goes it sounds like it is coming from the passanger side rear wheel area. So I lifted the car and tried to spin the rear wheels first the brake felt like it was grabing still (yes I released the parking brake). It did spin a about 1/2 turn and it sounded like it made the strange sound but only slower. Also the sound never happens when car is not moving, even under high reving. And the snap ring has been fixed it is a 92. (dont know if this will help but it makes a wuvvb wuvvb over and over again getting faster as speed increases) thanks in advanced for any helpful advise..
 
Originally posted by cpmoran:
I am getting this strange sound that comes and goes it sounds like it is coming from the passanger side rear wheel area. So I lifted the car and tried to spin the rear wheels first the brake felt like it was grabing still (yes I released the parking brake). It did spin a about 1/2 turn and it sounded like it made the strange sound but only slower. Also the sound never happens when car is not moving, even under high reving. And the snap ring has been fixed it is a 92. (dont know if this will help but it makes a wuvvb wuvvb over and over again getting faster as speed increases) thanks in advanced for any helpful advise..
Click to expand...

Sounds like a wheel bearing, or possibly cv boot....
 
Originally posted by cpmoran:
... dont know if this will help but it makes a wuvvb wuvvb over and over again ..
Click to expand...


Sorry ..... got to laugh at that though!!!
laugh.gif




[This message has been edited by D'Ecosse (edited 05 January 2003).]
 
It won't spin freely even with the brake off because of the differential. It sounds like it might be a wheel bearing (even though I laughed, the description sounds typically like a wheel bearing noise) - try raising that corner & with the brake off, leave the wheel on to give you extra leverage & rock the wheel (perpendicular to the rotational axis) to try to see if you can feel any "play" in the bearing



[This message has been edited by D'Ecosse (edited 05 January 2003).]
 
Guys this is not funny. No I dont mind the jokes as long as someone can please help me. Ok I took the wheel off and I pulled on the drive shaft and it moved also when I turned it, it made the sound so what should I do?????????
 
Just a thought... it might be a warped rotor?

------------------
Biaggi
92 NSX #483
94 CBR900RR

[This message has been edited by Biaggi (edited 05 January 2003).]
 
The rotors are fairly new and they are RM slotted rotors they look to be in perfect shape. Do you know when pulling on the drive shaft if it should move or not?
 
cpmoran,

When you say "move" in what direction are you speaking of? D'Ecosse talks about the best way to check it. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, does it rock in and out at all?? Repeat at 3 and 9 o'clock. Typically the 12 and 6 is a good indication of a bad bearing. If it moves at 3 and 9 you will need to investigate the entire suspension (like toe links)to make sure it is nothing else cuasing the play. The drive shaft should not move in and out axially.

In regard to the differential, if both rear wheels are off the ground, rotating by hand should have both rear wheels move together, since the limited slip clutch packs are pretty tight.

Even in nuteral you will get some resistance. As far as rotor warping, if this is the issue, if you remove the caliper and turn the rear wheels, the drag should go away. It's just a few bolts to remove both rear calipers and repeat the hand rotate test.

I sure does sounds like a bearing though, since you mentioed the rotors are new.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Originally posted by Larry Bastanza:
cpmoran,

When you say "move" in what direction are you speaking of? D'Ecosse talks about the best way to check it. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, does it rock in and out at all?? Repeat at 3 and 9 o'clock. Typically the 12 and 6 is a good indication of a bad bearing. If it moves at 3 and 9 you will need to investigate the entire suspension (like toe links)to make sure it is nothing else cuasing the play. The drive shaft should not move in and out axially.

In regard to the differential, if both rear wheels are off the ground, rotating by hand should have both rear wheels move together, since the limited slip clutch packs are pretty tight.

Even in nuteral you will get some resistance. As far as rotor warping, if this is the issue, if you remove the caliper and turn the rear wheels, the drag should go away. It's just a few bolts to remove both rear calipers and repeat the hand rotate test.

I sure does sounds like a bearing though, since you mentioed the rotors are new.

HTH,
LarryB
Click to expand...

Larry, if my chest is being poked with the wheel stud bolts and I pull on the drive shaft it will move about an inch or so toward me and then if I let go it moves back into place. What really bothers me is I had the entire car checked out by John Vasos of Acura of Brookfield about 3 weeks ago and he said everything was tip top, but I first noticed the sound on the way back from Chicago after purchase. This really sucks I hope I can find a cheap way to fix this.
 
cpmoran,

That sure sounds like a bad wheeel bearing!! One thing to check for sure is to compare sides. Does the other side move that much?? It really should not move at all. One inch is hugh. I am wondering if the bearing housing nuts are tight??

HTH,
LarryB
 
1" ?????
Man, that definitely isn't right! Is the hub nut tight? (that is torqued to ~ 260lbs if I remember correctly - check the manual)
There should be a locking sleeve over the nut that is pinched down over the key-way - make sure that is in place & secure. If it is, your bearings shot. If you don't have an air impact wrench you will probably find it impossible to get that hub-nut off - it needs to be "cracked" with the wheel on the ground; get a 36mm 6-point socket for it. Now torquing it back down again is going to be another issue - probably better to have a shop do it.
 
thanks for all the help. I have a service manual on the way to my house today hopefully. Ok I took off the other wheel and lifted the car so the whole rear, the wheels now move freely. Then i started the car and put it in first and the sound was presant and so much louder outside the car than in the car. I could not tell were it was coming from so I got my wifes prenatal baby heart monitor out and started listening. It didnt take long to find were the sound was coming from. The sound is coming from right between the back of the rotor and the boot connected to the drive shaft. So What does this mean?? The wheel bearing? If so you guys are good. Also what should I expect to pay to have this fixes parts and labor?

[This message has been edited by cpmoran (edited 06 January 2003).]
 
thats why I gave you the page # after the link- click on the scroll bar & pull it down - the page numbers will be displayed; the resolution is not great because of the huge # of pages; however once you are close, you can use the page forward tabs at the bottom to advance one page at a time.
But even easier - highlight the page # box - it will say page 1 of 1379 or something like that - type in 674 & you will go straight there!!
 
Originally posted by cpmoran:
The wheel bearing? If so you guys are good. Also what should I expect to pay to have this fixes parts and labor?
Click to expand...

This isn't an expensive repair. If I recall correctly, I paid about $500 to have a rear wheel bearing replaced, split roughly equally between parts and labor.

I had this done by a very competent independent mechanic who knows Hondas very well but rarely works on NSXs, which leads me to believe that it can be done by any experienced mechanic, not necessarily an NSX-experienced tech.

Whenever I'm having engine or transmission work done - timing belt, clutch, valve adjustment, etc - I take it to my dealer, which has the most experienced NSX tech in the state. But that's 45 minutes away. If I only need routine work that is not NSX-specific in nature, like tire mounting, brake pad changes, oil changes, etc, I use this local mechanic, two minutes away. (If my dealer were closer, I'd use them for everything.)

[This message has been edited by nsxtasy (edited 06 January 2003).]
 
Originally posted by cpmoran:
Also what should I expect to pay to have this fixes parts and labor?
Click to expand...

I agree with nsxtasy - this is not something that requires special NSX skills.
If you can get the hub off, then you can always take the hub assembly to a shop & have them remove & press in a new bearing - as I mentioned above, the tough part is "breaking" the hub nut, then re-torquing it adequately. Despite what the manual says, "crack" it with the wheel on the ground; you should be able to take off the caliper w/o disconnecting the hose - just use a block or something to support the weight after you remove it.
It sounds so bad I'd be afraid to drive it - (hopefully it hasn't damaged the hub itself) which is why I'm suggesting you try to take it off in your garage - for the hub nut, Warning - I've had a breaker bar with a 6' pipe on it for leverage & couldn't break it - air impact wrench is maybe only way out in some cases. It can't hurt anything to try to remove it though. Again, buy a 6-point 36mm socket for that nut.

[This message has been edited by D'Ecosse (edited 06 January 2003).]
 
Ok I just got off the phone with Jon Vasos (acura of brookfield service manager, great guy) I let him listen to the sound and he thinks it is an inner cv joint. I need to have it looked at and then call John Back...
 
Originally posted by cpmoran:
Ok I just got off the phone with Jon Vasos (acura of brookfield service manager, great guy) I let him listen to the sound and he thinks it is an inner cv joint. I need to have it looked at and then call John Back...
Click to expand...

If you look at how the hub assembly fits together per either the manual link or the parts assmbly link I referred you to, you will see that there is no way that the CV joint being bad in itself will allow you to pull the shaft in & out 1" - the only explanation for that is that either the hub nut is loose or the bearing is shot (even then, I doubt if an inch is possible)
 
I have an appointment at 11am on tuesday to get it checked out. I called a few acura dealers and they all wanted like 90 bucks just to look at it, so I called my tech that does the work on my wifes acura lengend and it turns out he use to work for acura the same one I called before and he said he was a trained nsx tech, and they would check it out for free. SWEET now I just hope its nothing more than bearing or cv stuff. Thanks for all your help I will post what ever I find out. THANKS AGAIN
 
In order to remove this by hand (no air tools) THE CAR WILL NEED TO BE ON THE GROUND, NOT ON STANDS, TIRES MOUNTED. You can use a 3/4" breaker bar with the 36mm socket and a long pipe as D'Ecosse suggests. I think this part will not be too bad with the right tools. (You may need an assitant to sit in the car with the brakes on. Do this first before taking anything apart, you want all the brake you can get!!)

In addition I recall that the axle is interference fit into the hub, not quite a "press fit" but in there pretty tight on a spline. NOT like other Honda's where the axle will pop out with a gentle whack of a nylon hammer.

cpmoran,

If you are going to do this yourself I will explain further. Let me know. You will need to get the axle shaft out of the transmission and free so you can get the stub axle out of the hub carrier.

IF you need the 3/4" breaker bar and the 36mm socket, let me know.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Originally posted by Larry Bastanza:
In order to remove this by hand (no air tools) THE CAR WILL NEED TO BE ON THE GROUND, NOT ON STANDS, TIRES MOUNTED. You can use a 3/4" breaker bar with the 36mm socket and a long pipe as D'Ecosse suggests. I think this part will not be too bad with the right tools. (You may need an assitant to sit in the car with the brakes on. Do this first before taking anything apart, you want all the brake you can get!!)

In addition I recall that the axle is interference fit into the hub, not quite a "press fit" but in there pretty tight on a spline. NOT like other Honda's where the axle will pop out with a gentle whack of a nylon hammer.

cpmoran,

If you are going to do this yourself I will explain further. Let me know. You will need to get the axle shaft out of the transmission and free so you can get the stub axle out of the hub carrier.

IF you need the 3/4" breaker bar and the 36mm socket, let me know.

HTH,
LarryB
Click to expand...

Larry, Thankyou so much for your help I really dont know if I should try anything on my own since the most Ive ever done on a car is change the oil. I will take to be look at tuesday morning and if it is not to much money I will do the work I think John is going to pay for the parts I hope he is..
 
cpmoran,

I would advise you to have this repair done, rather then tackling it. Mistakes could get expensive, since the hub carrier is aluminum, you are working with big fasteners, high torque values, etc. Also for this particular repair you will end up with a 5' metal bar inches away from what is probably a perfect rear fender. A small slip and you will be very sorry you attemped it.

This is not really a "first try" kind of repair IMO. If you could get an experienced person to help you, it would be a great learning experience, but otherwise best have it done.

As Ken mentioned, it is not too costly a repair. I assure you any damage done, would outweigh the total cost.

If you are worried about driving it, get a flatbed to get it to your tech.

Good Luck,

HTH,
LarryB
 

Similar threads

C
  • Locked
Exterior ***SOLD*** Like new CF Downforce DF-R Rear Spoiler *ceramic coated* w/ OEM wiring harness for brake light
Replies
6
Views
450
Wild Turkey
Wild Turkey
dadoke
dadoke's take on the NSX
Replies
14
Views
629
dadoke
dadoke
TANTO
ALUMINUM POLISHING DIY
Replies
5
Views
182
Honcho
Honcho
Jasweep
***SOLD*** 2019 Audi S5 Prestige (28,500 miles)
Replies
0
Views
520
Jasweep
Jasweep
Wild Turkey
Solved: Motorcycle style Front & Rear Daytime Running lights - "Super DRL's"?
Replies
9
Views
1K
Wild Turkey
Wild Turkey
Back
Top