Shifted from 2nd to 1st at 60+ mph!!!

Joined
16 June 2000
Messages
835
Location
30 miles from The Dragon. On the TN side of cours
My buddy just called me and told me he downshifted his car from 2nd to 1st by mistake, while cruising around this evening. He was accelerating in 2nd gear pretty swiftly when he shifted the car to 3rd. I guess he let the clutch out too soon and the car grinded 3rd pretty badly. He pushed the clutch back in and some how jammed it into 1st. When he let off the clutch, the rear tires locked up and the car started to skid. Once the speed slowed enough, the car then revved up quickly to catch up with the rear tires. He said the car is idling kind of low and that the car has developed a nice tick.
He drove the car home and he said the car runs fine, and doesn't appear to have lost any power.

He's going to run the car by the dealership tomorrow and see what they have to say. My question is, what could be wrong here?? Can you spin a bearing like this? Can the valves get out of adjustment from over revving the motor? Anyone else have a similar experience like this??

I tried searching for an old post where an NSX owner blew is motor when he downshifted from the 3rd (or was it 5th?) to 2nd, but I was unable to find it.

I guess he could put a screwdriver to his ear and the valve cover to try and isolate the noise. I sure hope this doesn't turn out to be as bad as I think it could get.

Thanks in advance
 
I would be very worried, seen pistons let go and be projected through the head from doing that.

If the car seems to be running OK (which it sounds like it is) then look at an oil change to see what is in there (possibly bits of metal and seals), and carry out compression tests as seals / rings may have gone.

But there is the chance that he got away with it.
 
seen this numerous times drag racing.

Buddy of mine has a video of him going from first, second, first and you see the tach pounce past 9.5k (B16 engine)..

car was perfectly fine...

sometimes... you just get lucky.

Other times... you can slap valves, drop valves, etc. etc.... lots of bad things.

x
 
He is probably looking at bent valves and a top end rebuild.

If that is the case, it will probably run about $2500-3500.
 
In the BMW world they call that the money shift. I read about it many times and guess what, it happend to me. One night going home on the local highway I decide to get on it. Just a little 325is... But redline every gear to 3rd and go for 4th. Too bad it was 1st instead of 4th, doh!! It was only for a split second. Right away stepped on the clutch and then put in in 3rd. RPM's were climbing up then it just froze then started to drop. At the same time all the lights on the dash lit up. Then I realized the car shut off. Pretty much lost the brakes because the engine was off. So had to u-brake it to stop.

Long story short, money shift = blown head.
 
ya "your buddies NSX" ;) lol

but just check it out, if its damaged 2-3k isnt too bad, or maybe "he'll" get lucky lol

good luck
 
m3power222 said:
In the BMW world they call that the money shift. I read about it many times and guess what, it happend to me. One night going home on the local highway I decide to get on it. Just a little 325is... But redline every gear to 3rd and go for 4th. Too bad it was 1st instead of 4th, doh!! It was only for a split second. Right away stepped on the clutch and then put in in 3rd. RPM's were climbing up then it just froze then started to drop. At the same time all the lights on the dash lit up. Then I realized the car shut off. Pretty much lost the brakes because the engine was off. So had to u-brake it to stop.

Long story short, money shift = blown head.

Blew the motor on my 1998 M3 drag racing at Englishtown this way:frown: $5500 after a mild port and polish job and as always-not warrantied:wink: It was a 1998 M3 with 13k on it; in 2001. Sad, sad day
 
m3power222 said:
s... But redline every gear to 3rd and go for 4th. Too bad it was 1st instead of 4th, doh!! ....
Not sure how you could possibly get into first when making a 3-4 shift; second I could understand ........... :confused:
 
Hey all,

I'm the buddy TitaniumVtec is talking about. Since Hurrican Wilma, I have been without cable or internet connection until a couple days ago; so, TitaniumVTec posted on my behalf. Here's the long story short:

While driving down a scenic road down here in Miami, on my way to meet up with a friend, I was stuck behind some guy in a large GMC Yukon or Denali. He was going 10-15 miles below the speed limit. There was no passing point for me as traffic was zooming in the other direction on the two way road. We got stopped at a red light. There was no one else around, and the light turned green. But this guy decided he was just going to sit there on the green. The turning lane next to me was clear so I just went around him. No big deal. I pushed her in first, past him, went into second, brought her up to speed at around 45mph and shifted into third.

Here's the problem, this jerk decided he was going to floor it as I was passing him to keep my shoved over into opposing traffic. I easily out accelerated him, however, once I started cruising, I saw his lights right on my tail. Now before I get any flames of what YOU ALL would have done, I simply did not want and could not deal with the drama. I shifted from fourth to third to second and accelerated away from him, pedal to the metal.

Believe or not, the guy still was racing up behind me, and I then shifted to third gear just under redline.

Here's the problem, My synchro is going bad in Third Gear (a new transmission was on the Christmas list for me this year and I just missed a great one from SoS, Doh!!!); when I tried to shift into third gear it simply would NOT go into gear and when I let off the clutch the car lurched to a stop locking the wheels. The tach bounced off the redline a couple times and I stomped on the clutch AND the brake.

The odd thing is, this all happened between S.W. 112th Street and S.W. 104th Street. After my car locked up, I shifted into second and proceeded down the road another block and pulled off in the middle of the road on a large, yellow lined center median. BTW, the jerk almost hit the back of me and swerved off to the other side of the road. This is less than a half mile distance. From hearing what I have said, one would think I traveled much further than that.

And Yes, the jerk still wouldn't leave me alone. Even after almost slamming into the back of me after chasing me down, he still came right up behind me until I pulled off on this median. He then pulled off the road on the grass to the right and yelled at me "Good, I want you to pull over, you crazy driving bastard"......Weird, I'm the crazy driver, but he turns Road Rage Vigilante. I called my police station to see if one of my fellow officers were in my area but they were tied up on other calls. I decided once again, that I don't really need any drama, so I put her in gear and drove on to meet my friend.

When I arrived at my destination, I noticed the car at a slightly different idle tone. She wasn't sputtering, just a deeper, slightly slower idle. There was also, a very slight ticking noise coming from the rear of the car. I couldn't tell if it was from the engine bay or exhaust.

Still that night I took her for a run and she drove fine. I noticed an ever so slight loss of power that would only occasionally occur.

Like TitaniumVTec said, I brought the car to the dealership and explained to them what happened while asking for a compression test along with other diagnostics they could run to determine anything about my car. A few days later they called me to tell me my car checks out fine. I go pick my car up, and later that night took her for a drive.

Now I notice the power lag a bit more. Also, the engine would idle very low, almost to the point where she was about to shut off and picked up the idle again.

I took her out on the highway for a good run. Oddly, the power felt strong and constant throughout. At one point she took me to 140mph in fourth gear (no flames this is late at night on an empty highway and spare me the "but your a cop" crap please).

After that running her a few times up and down that strip of road, she idled rock solid and the power came on smooth and crisp with no hesitation. The next day, however, she started to idle up and down again. Pushing her pedal to metal felt as though I had a slightly clogged fuel injection or something. There was definitely some power loss felt, though it was very slight.

I had been trying to contact the dealership and I've come to believe that no diognostics were ever run on the car . I had purchased some new spark plugs for them to intall while doing the compression test along with an oil change. They changed the spark plugs and charged me for the labor, but I saw nothing about a compression test on my reciept. When I inquired about what diognostics had been done to determine my engine had a clean bill of health, I was told that they would call me back. I have yet to hear from them.

So, I called a master mechanic (MIKE of MCAmotorsports) where he explained that the valves my have been slightly misaligned creating a slight leak. Like someone has said before, he will do a leak down test to determine which if any cylinders are compromised.

When I asked him to give me a rough estimate regarding the possible repairs needed, he told me between $4k and $5k. OUCH!!!

Talk about being nicely Reemed!!! In hind site I should have slammed on my brakes and let that jerk run into the back of me....But I know I would be too worried about my car to have that happen. That was a damn big truck that jerk was driving!!! He may have nocked me off the road into the canal just off to the right or even into opposing traffic.

Give me some feedback guys. Is this estimate about right considering how my car is running? Is a lower amount to be expected? Do they make rear missle launchers, or James Bond style gadgets to get some jerk off your back?
Are Mariah Carey's Boobs Fake?

No seriously, I'm really down about this. I have trouble justifying the cost of spending five grand on my car. This money was supposed to go towards the purchase of a new transmission.

Now what do I do? Tough situation I tell ya.....

Thanks for listening though....I guess I didn't shorten that long story much at all huh..LOL..sorry.

Blade
 
Here’s what I know-

The OE pistons need to be machined for maximum rev protection up to 9000 rpm. I would say that without machining the relief’s you have clearance to only 8500 at most. Usually the exhaust hits first in a 3.0 because of the single springs.
The valves are so thin that they can and will seal after piston contact, unfortunately the damage is done… every time it opens and closes it’s flexing until one day it breaks.
The NSX engine has very little squish clearance between the piston and the head and I have seen (on more then one occasion), a broken valve head cracking the block from the piston cocking.

Now I don’t know if you actually hit a valve, I just wanted you to know what I know.

Oh, and about the pricing-
Engine removal/installation labor, disassembly/cleaning/machining/reassembly labor, head gaskets, seals, replacement valves, fluids, machine shop costs, alignment, timing belt?, etc. It’s a big job that will cost a lot, you may want to get quotes from other reputable shops and maybe incorporate other upgrades while your in this deep. (Springs, oil pump, etc)

Any NSX head that is disassembled should have the keepers and retainers replaced. The OE keepers are cheap stamped pieces with small grooves for the super thin valves; they get deformed and crack the super hard and brittle retainers. This only seems to be a problem when reassembled, not with virgin factory assemblies. Ferrea makes machined keepers for the NSX ~$100 and KMS makes titanium retainers for ~$185. Choosing only one may be enough.

Unless you want to get into the engine anyway… I would probably take the risk rather then spend the money on a maybe. Of course if I detected any warning signs I would stop use of the car and get the work done. Worst-case scenario… replacement engines aren’t too hard to come by. I don’t mean to make light of your issue… it sucks.
 
do the compression and leak down test...generally you bend valves and the tick is the valve hitting the top of the chamber. If it idles funny that's usually the case, you won't notice it as much at higher rpm because lots of air is flowing into the motor.
 
a friend of mine did that with his Lotus Europa. Valves were hit by pistons, which then blew the cams free of their wimpy bearing housings, which took out the valve cover, which blew the rear deck cover right off the car. This was really expensive to fix....
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm gonna bite the bullet and get into the engine. While I'm in there, I may as well do some upgrades. My mech said from just listening to the engine that it is likely the valves "kissed", thus the ticking noise.

The engine AND transmission will be pulled. Tranny will be redone with short gears (tired of that long second gear), while keeping the final gear, so as not to effect my top speed. The heads will be decked, upgraded valves, blah blah blah, therefore a lot of money.

As what was mentioned above, the necessary parts will be replaced as needed, other parts upgraded. I will upgrade with a header, and new direct flow intake.

I'm not happy about all of this. Being without my car for over a month is going to be annoying at best.

I will keep everyone posted as to the results of the leakdown test, and progress of the car.

Thanks again for all the replies.
 
Blades,
Very sorry to hear bout your baby....Hope you get her all fixed up and back on the road again soon!!
 
Thanks Nemesis. I want to keep calling and harass my mech everyday, but the killer is going to be waiting for all the parts. But I am going to call tomorrow for the Leakdown test resutls, now that the xmas holiday is coming to a close.
 
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