SakeBomb Garage Ohlins Installation notes and initial impression.

Joined
21 June 2020
Messages
54
Location
CT
When I purchased my NSX in the summer of 2020, it had Bilstein dampers with OEM springs and Comptech adjustable sway bars. The handling was, of course, delightful. The two times I’ve had it at Lime Rock Park, once on the .5 mile “AutoX” course and the other on the main track, the car was composed and a pleasure to drive. Likewise, driving on a smooth surface was great. But on rough roads, particularly with the significant other onboard, the ride seemed unduly harsh.

After reviewing the options, I decided on the Grand Touring FP spec Ohlins DFV coilovers. I ordered them on June 18 and took delivery September 10th. The delay caused anxiety but I was able to get assurances they were being processed, as part of a busy work load.

I used this thread by member R13 to help guide me through the “2by4” coilover installation technique also found in the FAQ section.
As generally noted, fronts were much harder than the rears. I ended up taking off the speed sensor shield from the lower control arm and also the sway bar. And on one side, I had to raise the free length set ring (the lower most ring on the coilover) since it was contacting the A-arm and wouldn’t let me move the coilover bushing into the mount. The rears are much easier as you can slide the unit in from the back. I ended weighing the rears since, as with the fronts, they seemed much lighter. Rear Bilstein setup was 15 pounds while the Ohlins came in at 8.5. Good stuff!

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Measured from the floor to the fender, I had the following before and after numbers.

Bilsteins
Df – 24 ¾, Pf – 24 ½
Dr – 26, Pr – 25 7/8

Ohlins
Df – 25 ¾, Pf – 25 1/4
Dr – 25 7/8, Pr – 25 ¾

On the one hand, I wasn’t surprised that the Ohlins fronts were an inch taller than the Bilsteins based on what I’d read. But I was surprised that the rears came in at basically the same height, since the new units are shorter. (While the front units appeared the same length. Clearly springs make a difference.) I’m going to play with the pre-load for front height adjustment, following the clear suggestions from this thread by SakeBomb. https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/tj...omb-ohlins-on-his-nsx-barn-find-build.220710/ before doing an alignment (once I get the second coilover wrench from SakeBomb, that is. Second wrench was the only thing missing from the otherwise beautifully packaged box.
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I counted 32 clicks for each unit (could push to 34 but the end clicks didn’t feel as precise) set all four units to 16 clicks and went for a short drive. It was worth the wait. Firm without being harsh. Previously, when driving over a rough section of road, or hitting a bump, I’d occasionally get a loose change sound that seemed like it was coming from the passenger door. (So much so that I stuck an endoscope down between the window and door panel to see if anything obvious was down there. Nothing.) Anyway, same speed, same section of road that would cause the rattle, no rattling sound!

I am also psyched that all four units can be adjusted without removing anything. For the fronts, just push down on the plastic cover. For the rear, you can reach underneath. I’ve dialed them all back to 11 and am looking forward to going out for a longer drive.
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I do think I'll bring the front down .5 to an inch though. So far, at this very initial stage, real happy with these units. Can't wait to explore different settings.
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I'm at oem ride height , your rear looks lower than mine..I agree you should lower the front a tad. Search on prime for proper ride height measuring method, using the fender is imprecise.
I'm still impressed with the performance and smoothness.
 
You should definitely adjust the height according to the manual, and lower from there. Front should be slightly lower than back. Also I suggest tightening the rear at least to 16 if your front are 11, otherwise you'll have a slightly floating rear end under hard acceleration and cornering (mine are 16/24 f/r).
 
Good suggestions, thanks. I received my second spanner yesterday so am now set to adjust. From the manual, I intend to use the following specs, less 20-22mm which I understand is the Type R spec, for a reference:
To center lower control arm bolt - 170-180 mm (6.7-7.f in)
To center toe control arm bolt - 213-22 mm (8.4-8.9 in)
I am on 17/18 wheels and also intend to compare the prior floor to fender measurement as well. Will post up results.

Appreciate the settings suggestion. On my Miata, I'm four clicks firmer (Feal 441 9/6k) on the front and fully expected the mid-engine to be different. Felt a little odd to have front and back the same but figured it was a good starting point.
 
My measurements weren't entirely precise, but I did the same as you state above to get the "baseline" and then adjusted down from there. I tried to maintain around 0.25" of rake from front to rear and then once I got the ride heights roughly where I wanted, sent it in for alignment thereafter.

I go a little stiffer up front than in rear (ie 1-2 clicks) but every coilover is going to be different
 
yes nsx likes a stiffer front
 
Took docjohn’s advice and read up on proper ride height adjustment. I found the most informative thread (though somewhat sad towards the end) here. https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/lowering-your-nsx-rake-and-how-to-do-properly.172587/

But first, I wanted to drop the fronts by an inch and see the result. Turns out I could only lower .6 inch. Anything more and the spring perch ring made contact with the upper control arm at full droop.
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Ultimately, that was just as well.

The rake thread has several points about setting rake and where to measure. I measured from the factory service manual bolt positions. Finding the “middle” of the bolt is a bit of a pain. I used a tape measure and then measured the extended distance of the tape with a metric ruler.
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The result of lowering front resulted in a height of 147 mm to the bolt.
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My take away from the rake thread was to obtain the factory measured height ratio. In the thread it’s 1.5 inches but for a ’91 it’s 1.7in. I raised the rears by 10mm+/- resulting in a height of 190mm. 190-147=43. 43mm=1.69in. Bingo, (I hope.) My plan is to have the alignment done by an NSX expert in NJ.
Both sides adjusted.JPEG

Also, and because the less precise jack points are easier to access, here’s what I currently have.
Df – 4 1/4 , Pf – 4 1/4
Dr – 4 1/2 , Pr – 4 3/8
(Actually, not that easy to get an accurate measure, with my tape, at the jack points either.

Finally, all four Ohlins came to me with 103mm between the bottom free length set ring and the lock ring for the spring perch. When finished, I had 87mm on the front and 112 on the rear. Looking forward to the alignment, and hope I didn’t screw anything up.
 

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we(royal) appreciate your thorough updates...what alignment spec you going for.
 
Good question. I looked at https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/alignment-specs-on-lowered-nsx-what-do-you-guys-have.110496/ and also started reading through the FAQ for a better understanding. But rather than go to a local Acura dealer, I've made an appointment with GT Japanese Automotive in Edison NJ. I understand they have extensive experience with modified NSXs so I'll rely on their expertise. Now, what I want out of the alignment . . .. It's not a track car, I have the Miata for that. I won't be putting a lot of miles on it so tire wear is not super important. I guess straight tracking with responsive turn-in and reasonable tire wear would do it. :-) Would like to hear your set-up.

As for the thorough updates, thanks! When I was deciding to move on from the Bilsteins, I couldn't find that much on the Ohlins so I figured I'd post up my experience.
 
From what Mike aka the kid posts, you found the right shop. I use the 99 zanardi specs.
 
Zanardi specs are a good baseline and then if Kun is a good alignment guy, he'll know how to tweak from there. A good alignment person is worth their weight in spades...

Just to note you can go lower if you wanted by jacking the A-arm up with a second jack and spinning the perch from there. Your level of comfort with that setup might vary but that's one way to get the car lower than you otherwise have it. I needed to do the same when I had JRZs.
 
Made an early morning road trip yesterday to GT Japanese Automotive in Edison NJ.

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Met Kun, who did the alignment and a recommended injector/valve cleaning.

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I am pleased with both services. Car drives great. Kun was friendly, knowledgeable (of course) and willing to talk NSX while doing the injector service. I definitely recommend this place. Absolutely lived up to the reputation.

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I believe these specs are close to the Type S, with .5 more camber in the rear. I am very satisfied with the Ohlins. Oh, and I found out what that "loose change" sound was that I mentioned earlier. The handle on the fire extinguisher, lol.
 

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Just to note you can go lower if you wanted by jacking the A-arm up with a second jack and spinning the perch from there. Your level of comfort with that setup might vary but that's one way to get the car lower than you otherwise have it. I needed to do the same when I had JRZs.

Thanks for the note. I considered doing that but was uncomfortable with the thought of the spring perch becoming an interference object with the upper control arm at maximum or close to max droop. Decided to put the car on the ground and see how it looked. Only 10mm rise in the rear and I'm at the spec'd 1.7 differential between front and rear.

And I agree with you about a good alignment person and/or mechanic. The 2 hour+/- drive was worth it, no doubt about it.
 
If the perch is hitting the control arm, you need to jack up the control arm and it will give you the clearance you need to go lower.
 
If the perch is hitting the control arm, you need to jack up the control arm and it will give you the clearance you need to go lower.
True, per above. But I decided to drive the car at the height
 
Just a follow up: Went for a 140 drive up to and around the hills of NW CT this past weekend. Transformative is perhaps too strong a word but the ride and handling (at back roads cruising speed) was exemplary. Here's a short clip from the drive, for a little CT viewing.
Best thing was how they are firm but soak up the bumps better than the Bilsteins with OEM springs. Definitley glad I did the upgrade.
 
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