rotors for HPDE: slotted? Cryo ??

DCNSX

DCNSX

Experienced Member
Joined
7 October 2002
Messages
656
Location
Chapel Hill NC
My last "mod" was to add Dali brake deflectors. Speedbleeders and add SuperBlue fluid. Now it's time for new front rotors. My normal driving is weekend road use with about 8 days of HPDE per year.

I was going to consider the rotors a "disposable" item and buy cheapie Duralasts from AutoZone for $70 each. VBNSX recommended these as they come with a 2-year warranty. Unfortunately, AutoZone no longer stocks them --probaly since VBNSX returned his -cracked- every two months :biggrin:

So now I'm thinking about PowerSlot "cryo" rotors @ $147 each from TireRack. Twice the price but they will theoretically last twice as long. Is this true? I know to avoid drilled rotors for HPDE, but TireRack also says to avoid slotted rotors for track use. Is this true, or just CYA?

Keeping in mind I have a very limited budget, are there any other suggestions from you HPDE gurus?? BTW- I have stock '91 brakes (with newer 7-spoke OEM wheels) and am just looking to replace the front rotors at this time. Next up: Falken Azenis tires.
 
I'm w/ Hugh. The Dali slotted are excellent rotors (Powerslot blanks). Avoid drilled. They will crack more easily. The OEM rotors are actually very good too but for the price I'll get the Dalis.

All rotors will crack with extensive track use. Paying more for a slightly better rotor will maybe extend rotor life for one or two more events--not worth it. I don't really want to be runnng rotors at the end of their life anyways.

The Dali deflectors are OK but not great. They send air into the general area but not directly onto the rotor where you need it. Custom ducting is a better way to spend your $$.
 
BioBanker said:
I too am in need of rotors, but is DALI shipping product out these days or just collecting money?
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I know this is a touchy subject but Dali never seems to have issues with normal, simple orders or even backordered items. It's core charges, exchanges and credits which throw him off for some reason.

I understand a vendor should be responsible on all fronts but IMHO your chances of satisfaction go WAY up on simple orders for any product.

FWIW I have never heard anyone say: "I ordered a part from Dali and it didn't show up." Keep it simple and you should get your items.

I totally understand not wanting to do business with Dali. He made his own bed. :rolleyes:
 
NSXGMS said:
I guess I was wrong :frown: :

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69831

I hate to read about this stuff. I can't defend Dali when this stuff appears. Very unfortunate.
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Yeah it is too bad that this happens to others in our community. These two instances in that thread aren't the only two cases where ordered product just didn't ever show up, although you're right that the many of them seem to refunds, core exchanges, etc. That is why it is hard to understand why others continue to order from someone that is effectively stealing from other owners. :confused: There are so many other reputable places to get NSX products that it is baffling to me why people support someone like that, even to save a couple of bucks.

However, for those that still want to buy from Dali for whatever reason, definitely go COD like Hugh said. That will at least cover your butt.
 
DCNSX said:
I was going to consider the rotors a "disposable" item and buy cheapie Duralasts from AutoZone for $70 each. VBNSX recommended these as they come with a 2-year warranty. Unfortunately, AutoZone no longer stocks them
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:confused:
Did you ask them to order them? I always have to get them to order it and just have to wait a bit.

x
 
DCNSX said:
I was going to consider the rotors a "disposable" item and buy cheapie Duralasts from AutoZone for $70 each. VBNSX recommended these as they come with a 2-year warranty. Unfortunately, AutoZone no longer stocks them --probaly since VBNSX returned his -cracked- every two months :biggrin:
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Hmmm...$70 x 4 = $280 for Autobone Duracrap;

$80 x 4 = $320 for Dali.

14% more dollars for a 1000% better rotor...:rolleyes:

I hope to god no one is putting Dura-ass on a TRACKED NSX. :eek:

Warranty or not, my time is too valuable to be running to Autobone after every track event--keep the extra 40 clams.
 
I tried to "back-order" the parts thru AutoZone's website, but it wouldn't go thru. ..and on the phone they said their vendor is "out of stock" so they can't even place an order. They told me to try back in a week or so. Yeah, right.

I guess it's now Dali ...C O D.

Thanks for the input, everyone.
 
You might try www.tirerack.com for your rotors and pads.

My .02 would be to go with the best you can afford with the brakes....

I'd feel pretty silly if my brakes failed and I put it into a wall because I saved $40 or $160... :tongue:

For whatever its worth, Dali shipped my license plate mount without any problems.

Regards,
 
Hugh said:
Get the Dali slotted rotors. They are essentially Powerslots but without the Powerslot box and pricetag. $320 for a set of 4. I just ordered a new pair of fronts today. My first set needs replacement after 60,000 miles and few track days. :)

http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=365
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agreed:biggrin: I've bought 2 sets through him, and PAID UPFRONT, and had no problems. First set was the slotted/x drilled fronts only. Then I decided to sell those off and replace all four rotors with the same ones, just all new...VERY NICE!:biggrin: Haven't had a problem with Mark yet....:wink:
 
btcog82 said:
Haven't had a problem with Mark yet....:wink:
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That's just it, "...yet." I wish you every good fortune but it's not a question of if he'll cheat you it's when.

DCNSX, I'd think about going with the PowerSlots from TireRack. I use them on the rear, on my second set, and haven't had a problem with them. I think the first set of rears lasted about 14 track events and some road use in between.

Not sure the cyro treated rotors are worth the price premium. If anything, you may want to consider getting the interior of the rotors coated with a heat dispersent. Although, that may be a bit pricey as well.

Good luck!
 
I went with a pair of Dali slotted rotors- front only. $170/pair + shipping for 33lbs. + UPS's $10.00 C.O.D. fee = $218.74.
 
Don’t waste your money on cryo. The only technical reports written about this process were written and tested by the makers of the machine. The articles weren’t peer reviewed by the way. Even in these reports, the cryo process only helped with wear on machine tools. On tracked NSX’s, the rotors never wear out, they need to be replaced due to cracking. I personally believe the cryo process is mostly snake-oil for brake rotors.

Bob
 
Dali carries different brands for one piece stock replacement including RacingBrake. Being a manufacturer we like to highlight some of the important feature of how RB rotors are made differently than others so you may become a more knowledgeable buyer.

The Design – RB is probably the only manufacturer makes the front rotors directional (curve vanes) which is an upgrade from OE straight vane. We think NSX requires better cooling so we decided to make them Left/Right with two sets of tooling. Most of you know the advantage of directional rotors at the extra cost in production and inventory.

The Material– RB rotors are made from performance material with high carbon contents (3.3% or more) for better thermal conductivity and extra alloys to improve the strength, hardness and thermal stability for better resistant to wear and warping or cracking than OE rotors. While most competitors can use a material doesn’t even comparable to OE rotors, superficial finish (drill or slot) are added just to make the look.

The Treatment – Our directional rotors (front) are heat treated with our own developed process for stress relief and a more uniform microstructure for a lasting and consistent performance under extreme heat - A natural and proven process, no gimmicks such as Cryo treatment etc. See our comments on RB forum:
http://forums.racingbrake.com/viewtopic.php?t=20

The Machining – RB rotors are 100% dynamic balanced to assure consistant performance under any driving conditions. Note our friction surface receives fine double cross cut. This is an extra step for easy break in, yet the remaining surface are EDP coated for rust resistant.

The Quality Assurance & Tractability – RB rotors are casted with our P/N, minimum thickness and production date and lot number so you know exactly what you are getting instead of just a part in a box without any identification.

The Warranty & Guarantee – RB rotors carries the longest warranty in the performance industry and come with money back satisfaction guarantee.

A lot of our customers know RB rotors work better and last longer w/o really knowing the reasons. However if you understand and factor in those criteria it will make your purchase decision more sensible in addition to price comparison.
 
sdoow said:
A lot of our customers know RB rotors work better and last longer w/o really knowing the reasons. However if you understand and factor in those criteria it will make your purchase decision more sensible in addition to price comparison.
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I agree, and I have posted before re the same. I have had over 15 track days on the very first template set and I still have a few more track days left, this after turning them once. Hairline cracks are there but then they are expected after some 50 sessions on the same rotors.

Just an fyi, running cooler rotors has huge benefits. A few months ago I took my 96 RL to the track for the first time - as it was a rainy and cold day so I said I might as well since I committed to help. I was having great fun and laughing passing all the other "sports" cars on the track in my session :tongue: While the joke amongst our local weekend boy racers is that I use my pyrometer too much, suffice it to say that the temps on my OEM front rotors were 800F on this cool and rainy day :eek: The rotors warped and the lifespan of the OEM pads were toast; good thing I had Valvoline brake fluid. The hottest I have gotten my RB rotors on the the track is 500F and that is 100F-150F cooler than the OEM rotors I used to run under the same settings/conditions/track.

Moral of the story, the RB brakes work. Don't ask me how :wink:

And yes, RacingBrake is our newest sponsor of NSXCA-Sacramento Chapter and Infineon track event on 7/21.
 
Racing Brakes are by far the best investment in regards to performance/price we have made to date on our FX500 NSX. No hassle installation. No compromises in performance both on and off the track.
 
Please explain the other brake kits you've had that these compare to :biggrin:

Factor X Motorsports said:
Racing Brakes are by far the best investment in regards to performance/price we have made to date on our FX500 NSX. No hassle installation. No compromises in performance both on and off the track.
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I have tried many different kinds of rotors on my NSX and my ITR, both of which I track. On my NSX, I'm now on my 12th set of front rotors, and my 6th on the ITR. I keep track of how many total miles, and how many track miles, I get from each set. Here are the conclusions I've reached so far:

- There are no differences in lifespan between solid-faced, drilled, and slotted one-piece rotors. They all eventually crack - most commonly after 800-1200 track miles. But I just consider rotors to be consumable, replaceable parts, just like brake pads; if you track your car, you need to replace them periodically, and that's part of the price of tracking.

- There are no differences in lifespan between brands of one-piece rotors, and I've used OEM, PowerSlot, Duralast, cryo-treated, etc.* In fact, on my ITR I got the longest lifespan (most track miles) from a set of Duralast rotors from Autozone, which appear to be just as good as anyone's. (And no, I don't bring them back to Autozone for replacement under warranty after they crack. :rolleyes: ) Don't knock them if you haven't tried them! (The RacingBrake rotors are not available for the '91-96 NSX, so I have not tried them and cannot comment on their lifespan claims.)

- Two-piece rotors (Stoptech) last significantly longer; I got 1600 track miles on one set. However, those DO eventually crack, also.

- The rear rotors seem to last almost forever. I changed mine at one point when I got slotted rotors for all four corners, for looks, and finally cracked those, then went back to the originals and they are just reaching the minimum thickness spec. That's after 11K+ track miles for the two sets. Unless your rear rotors are actually cracked or at the minimum thickness (and they probably aren't), there's no need to replace them.

For the '91-96 NSX, I think there are several good options - two-piece rotors from Stoptech (~$200-250), or one piece Duralast rotors from Autozone ($70) or PowerSlot rotors from the Tire Rack ($100). All of whom are reputable "bricks and mortar" vendors with excellent customer service, with no worries about whether you will receive your merchandise.

sdoow said:
The Design – RB is probably the only manufacturer makes the front rotors directional (curve vanes)
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Not true. This is what the Stoptech website says about their patented design:

aerorotor.jpg


* The one exception to this statement is a pair of Powerstop rotors which Comptech sent me that were defective (and which they refused to refund :mad: ).
 
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Would be interested to see if you can you double check with Stoptech to sustantiate your statement. It's not how the vane was designed, it's how the rotors are made. Are their one piece front stock rotors (97+) made to directional (Vane configuration, not surface slotting).

Here is the list of application RB upgrades the rotors to curve (directional) from OE's stright vane; e.g. for NSX: 90761(left) and 90762 (right).

http://www.racingbrake.com/main/curvedvane.asp

By the way our extended caliper brackets allowing 91-96 to upgrade to 97+ brakes will be ready for test next week and released shortly. Here is the thread discusssed fully on the brake upgrade. It's our understanding that most 91-96 owners would prefer to upgrade to 97+ brakes, that's why we don't make brake for older models, tell us if our understanding is inaccurate.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30881&highlight=racingbrake
 
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