Replacing the oil pan gasket?

davidf

davidf

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Joined
14 May 2007
Messages
11,224
Location
Beaumont, Texas
Alright fellas heres the deal. I need to replace my oil pan gasket due to seepage. Looks like part of the exhaust must be dropped to clear the pan. Question: Does the flange at the manifold have a gasket or does it seal w/out a gasket. This will be a saturday job and I don't want to get caught without all parts needed. Thanks in advance.
 
You have aftermarket headers?

With the stock headers i managed to do it without removing the headers.
 
you can drop the headers, it will help with removal of the oil pan. Dont even mess with the 6 bolts on the cats. They are always seized up. Just drop it from where the pipe attaches to the headers and also where the exhaust pipe attaches to the muffler.

Once that comes out, it will also help to remove the engine to tranmission support mount. Its 2 12mm bolts and one 14mm off the top of my head. Once that support is removed you'll be able to access the oil pan directly with out any obstructions.

When it comes time to put on the oil pan and the gasket, you can line it up perfect with out worring about the gasket being off.

There is no special gasket between the exhaust headers and exhaust pipe and will seal. good luck.

have a braker bar ready for those exhaust bolts.
 
You will not need a new gasket for the down pipe, they use a large crush washer, and it is reusable.

If it is 1995+ they are two bolt spring loaded fasteners on the cat. If it is a 1991-94 they have three nuts for each end of each cat. The three bolts are on either side of the cats so if it is an early car, you will be getting a few tough nuts off anyway. PBBlaster is pretty darn good:). The studs on NSX cats are pretty tough, if they soak with PB overnight I have had about a 95% success rate with just blasting them off with an impact gun, none broken. ASSUMING a proper impact 6 point socket.

And REMEMBER, regardless of what the service manual says, NO SEALANT on the gasket, period.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Last edited:
For my 1992, I've done this job twice. I chose to remove the flex pipe that is right under the oil pan. Like they said, use some bolt loosener and then have an exact fit 6-point socket (14mm if I remember correctly). Make sure the socket fits on all the way - this may require removing some rust on the outside of the nut. You'll likely want a breaker bar. But, mine came off with little problem (142k miles).

I did not take off any other parts - you won't need to remove anything else.

Since my gasket was leaking where the manual says to use some liquid gasket (Honda bond), I used some there. Just a quick smear over the joints on the ends of the engine so make the mating surface more even is all I used.

Hope this helps.
 
Larry Bastanza said:
...And REMEMBER, regardless of what the service manual says, NO SEALANT on the gasket, period.

HTH,
LarryB
Click to expand...


So you do not use the Honda Bond they specify? Why not? I am about to do this and want to be sure. Thanks! :)
 
Oh, I just realized how old this thread is...How is that gasket holding up!
 
Meeyatch1 said:
So you do not use the Honda Bond they specify? Why not? I am about to do this and want to be sure. Thanks! :)
Click to expand...

I was taught not to use it, and I have seen leakage in the areas where Hondabond was used. So I don't use it, and my oil pan gasket repairs are all fine.

The service manual also specifies separating the ball joints to remove the trans. Another VERY bad idea. Every once and a while, "They" got it wrong:):).

Regards,
LarryB
 
Big_D said:
Oh, I just realized how old this thread is...How is that gasket holding up!
Click to expand...

It's holding up well. I recommend {strongly} replacing it prior to header install. It's cheap, easy and who wants to remove a header. I say make it part of your header install. Just my .02.:wink:
 
welll im in a similar situation, but im replacing my oil pan with an arc unit, it said to use a sealer, but i bought the pan used, will the oem gasket work?
 
I am replacing my CV boots so much of this stuff is off. I have CTech headers on my 92 NSX. Want to confirm, if I want to change out the oil pan gasket I don't need to drop the headers but just remove the flex pipe and maybe cat?

Thx

Jeff
 
Racerxjling said:
I agree after looking at pics...esp. if oil pan has to drop a couple to a few inches. Oil pan gasket is not seeping/leaking but not sure if/when it was changed. It's a 92' w/ 38k miles.
:frown:

Jeff
Click to expand...

if it aint' broke, then don't fix it! :) (unless the subframe is already dropped, then removing the front bank header isn't that bad.)
 
Larry Bastanza said:
I was taught not to use it, and I have seen leakage in the areas where Hondabond was used. So I don't use it, and my oil pan gasket repairs are all fine.

The service manual also specifies separating the ball joints to remove the trans. Another VERY bad idea. Every once and a while, "They" got it wrong:):).

Regards,
LarryB
Click to expand...

lol hey Larry

i use a little on the 4 corners to hold the gasket up and to keep it in place.

the honda gasket for the oil pan does not need goo since the clamping force of the bolts does a great job.

the great stuff by pemtax (i think thats the name) is a great product.

my buddies have used it on their turbo cars and had no issues with it.

good luck.,
 

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