Replacement O2 sensors

[the hunter]

My dealer just confirmed that the rough engine on my 1992 NSX is due to 02 sensors and said both front and rear need replacing. I thought however the $800 quote was a bit steep so I am considering doing this myself.

Any compolications in a DIY replacemet?

Can anybody help me identify the correct parts at a reasonable price. I looked at the Denso site and they refer to Left and right O2 sensors for the 1992 model.

Any advice much appreciated

 

[Daedalus]

They're a bit of a pain, but not $800 worth. I just replaced mine with OEM units from sparkplugs.com for $50 each plus tax/shipping--great site and great service. The front one had galled threads and was a bit harder. I removed the L-shaped pipe in front of the cat to get more tool clearance. You'll need an offset crow's foot sensor wrench. Unless you make $300/hour or more, DIY should pay off.

I'm a little curious though as to why bad O2 sensors will cause engine roughness. Bad O2s sensors usually show low voltage readings and result in the car running rich, which actually smooths the idle but reduces power. Did the roughness just start all of a sudden? Have you tried cleaning the throttle body?

 

[Hugh]

My dealer just confirmed that the rough engine on my 1992 NSX is due to 02 sensors and said both front and rear need replacing. I thought however the $800 quote was a bit steep so I am considering doing this myself.

Any compolications in a DIY replacemet?

Can anybody help me identify the correct parts at a reasonable price. I looked at the Denso site and they refer to Left and right O2 sensors for the 1992 model.

Any advice much appreciated

I believe the correct part numbers are 36531-PR7-J02
It looks like the same part number for the front and rear however one comes with a longer cable and the llst prices shown are different.

look here.

Give my buddy Ciro at Delray Acura a call at 561-265-0000 (option 3) and tell him Hugh sent you and let him know what you need. Both sensors should end up costing you a bit more than $300.00

 

[NSXCessive]

DIY just replaced both O/2's on my 91. The rear one can be difficult to get out, you'll have to remove the exhaust from the down pipe. A friend of mine is an NGK dealer, and cross referenced the OEM to NGK/NTK OEM replacements. Sensors are exact OEM replacement connector plugs and all! Saved a fourtune over the dealer! Local dealer $230CND each NTK OEM replacement $65CND. I can post the exact cross reference to th NGK/NTK part #'s to help you find them. Any parts or NGK dealer should be able to order them for you. :biggrin:

See The Header DIY FAQ to help if you decide to do it http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/headers.htm

 

[EndlessNSX]

I just finished my rear O2 sensor replacement and now I have to do the front. It was kind of a PITB but not to hard.

The dealer here quoted me $800 as well for both but I went online and bought the rear one for $80+ shipping and the front one was about the same price.

 

[Ojas]

You might be interested in ncdogdoc's write-up: Generic Oxygen Sensor install

The part number and website to purchase from is listed, too. It costs $120 shipped for the pair of sensors. Compared to stock sensors, the only extra thing you have to do is cut the connector from old sensor (which you would have junked anyway) and connect the 4 wires.

 

[pumpbubble]

Did replacing the sensors fix your rough idle?

I am having a rough idle issue and my check engine light is on. Mechanic said it was a faulty sensor error.

 

[dalybo]

if you have an occasional misfire with your rough idle, check this thread out for a possible cause and cure to your problem(s)

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70849

 

[nsxsuper]

Hello Rudeboy, i have problems too with getting the sensors here in Germany,
can you let me know the NGK-numbers ?? That would be very nice.
Best Regards Ralf, my 1991 yellow NSX always displays code 1 and 2.

 

[Daedalus]

NGK part # 24172 for both.

 

[NSXCessive]

Hello Rudeboy, i have problems too with getting the sensors here in Germany,
can you let me know the NGK-numbers ?? That would be very nice.
Best Regards Ralf, my 1991 yellow NSX always displays code 1 and 2.

This is what your looking for... :biggrin:

 

[NSXCessive]

NGK part # 24172 for both.

Thats it... looks to be the same both in Canada and US... correct plugs and all! :smile:

 

[nsxsuper]

Thanks, both for the information, i read this too on the NGK-homepage .
I wonder that Honda has two different partnumbers for them ?? But i will try
to get them here and hope they will fit, and fix my problems ??
Regards Ralf

 

[Daedalus]

I'm more curious as to why the dealership lists 2 fronts and 2 rears for the '92, which only has one sensor on each bank.
The NGK sensors stocked by Honda are "ideal" in that their lengths are made for each location on the front and rear banks. In reality, this amounts to a difference in length of roughly 1-2". The 24172 is identical in construction, but its length is closer to the longer Honda version. It still has the same sensor, 2 mounting point grommets, wires, shielding and connector. The grommets still match up to the mounting clips on both front and rear banks, but with maybe a tad more or less slack, depending on location. Not much of a downside when you're saving >$100 per sensor.

 

[Hugh]

Sometimes on part lists you'll see 2 part numbers for the same part. That's because a lot of times a part is updated or sourced from a different OEM and gets a new number. Since the older part may still be in the system, they show all the pertinent numbers.

 

[NSXCessive]

I'm more curious as to why the dealership lists 2 fronts and 2 rears for the '92, which only has one sensor on each bank.
The NGK sensors stocked by Honda are "ideal" in that their lengths are made for each location on the front and rear banks. In reality, this amounts to a difference in length of roughly 1-2". The 24172 is identical in construction, but its length is closer to the longer Honda version. It still has the same sensor, 2 mounting point grommets, wires, shielding and connector. The grommets still match up to the mounting clips on both front and rear banks, but with maybe a tad more or less slack, depending on location. Not much of a downside when you're saving >$100 per sensor.

The new ones have a skinny body in comparison. Connector plugs and lengths are identical, there is only one rear and one front bank O/2's. I've had mine in for over a month in my new Comptech headers, they work great at an amazing price over Acura pricing! :biggrin:

 

[Daedalus]

The new ones have a skinny body in comparison. Connector plugs and lengths are identical, there is only one rear and one front bank O/2's. I've had mine in for over a month in my new Comtech headers, they work great at an amazing price over Acura pricing! :biggrin:

The lengths are not identical. If the front and rears were identical, both sensors would have the same part number in the Honda database. It costs money for generating requirements, testing/validating, releasing engineering, managing product data, sourcing/procuring, storing/handling, maintaining lists, etc, not just between the vendor and corporate HQ, but between HQ and the dealer network. They're so close, though, I bet the bean counters weren't involved in the design reviews, nor had the engineers been trained in Cost Sensitivity 101. Probably would have been a different story if it was a Civic.

 

[NSXCessive]

The lengths are not identical. If the front and rears were identical, both sensors would have the same part number in the Honda database. It costs money for generating requirements, testing/validating, releasing engineering, managing product data, sourcing/procuring, storing/handling, maintaining lists, etc, not just between the vendor and corporate HQ, but between HQ and the dealer network. They're so close, though, I bet the bean counters weren't involved in the design reviews, nor had the engineers been trained in Cost Sensitivity 101. Probably would have been a different story if it was a Civic.

Excellent, I never bothered to removed them out of the old headers so I didn't notice the difference in length from your pics 1~2inch approx. As for us the end user the NTK O/2's are prefect, cheap alternative to OEM, with OEM quality, and if you installed new headers like I did, the lengths don't matter anymore. At least for my Comptech's they came with ext wires so you'd route them where the best possible location to the new O/2 bungs. Stock the NTK's would only be out by a very minimal, and not even noticeable amount if you have stock headers on still.

 

[the hunter]

I bought the O2 sensors from Sparkplug.com, great price and quick delivery. Fitting was easy and the engine did sound better when I fired her up but the CEL stayed lit. I pulled the clock fuse but the CEL stayed on. Next day I started the engine and the CEL was off but my joy only lasted about 5 miles when the CEL came back on. The engine is running rough again, especially at low revs and when she is warm.

Prior to changing the O2 sensors I had changed all the injectors, fitted new spark plugs and checked out the coils.

So what can be causing this? Should I go back to the dealer for another $105 diagnostic check?

 

[Daedalus]

Surprise, surprise. Pull the code yourself then report back.

 

[the hunter]

I need some help in reading the code. When I switch on the ignition I get 1 long flash and 6 short ones which implies a code 16. (accompanied by beeps?) However it did the same before I went to the dealer who diagnosed code 1 and 42 for the 02 sensors. I get the same code 16 response both with and without the jumper in the diagnostic plug. I must be doing something wrong. The CEL light only comes on when the engine gets fully warmed up and the engine is rough up to 4000rpm. Before I changed the O2 sensors the CEL light was on all the time.

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

Code 16 is injector related, which would be more likely to cause a rough idle. Check injectors per service manual. Keep in mind that even if the problem is fixed, the code will stay in memory (which will then blink with the service connector jumped). Once problem is believed to be fixed, clear the code (clock fuse up front), and drive.

take care,
-- Chris

 

[the hunter]

I changed the injectors but the engine is still rough. Why do I get a code 16 without the jumper in the connector?

 

[Jin1976]

There's no cutting and extending involved for the longer part of the O2 sensor? Are they plug and play? For the price I'm going to order them and see if it solve my car's problem.

...The 24172 is identical in construction, but its length is closer to the longer Honda version. It still has the same sensor, 2 mounting point grommets, wires, shielding and connector. The grommets still match up to the mounting clips on both front and rear banks, but with maybe a tad more or less slack, depending on location. Not much of a downside when you're saving >$100 per sensor.

 

[Daedalus]

I changed the injectors but the engine is still rough. Why do I get a code 16 without the jumper in the connector?

You may have moved beyond the help of a web forum. I'm not sure what would cause a code to blink out without the jumper in place. And the car chimes in unison with the blinks? You can check the injectors at the ECU harness to make sure there's not a break in the circuit somewhere between the ECU and the injectors themselves. Remove the ECU and check the resistances of each injector through the large connector. If they all check out then code 16 is wrong...unless there's a bent pin at the ECU or the ECU's whacked, which may be the case, though the ECU is almost never the problem.

Jin, the NGK O2 sensors are plug-and-play, as long as your exhaust manifolds are stock.