Has anybody done this? How much time and skill is involved? I remembering doing this on my old 90 accord with 175,000 miles several years ago and it showed improvment in the area of accerleration & idle.
Removing trottle body for FULL cleaning
- Thread starter nsxexotic
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It is not entirely difficult. The only tricky part I would say is that coolant runs through the throttlebody. Make sure not to lose too much fluid and plug up the lines that goes to the throttlebody when removing. This should prevent too much air from entering the water passage. After putting everything back, I followed the bleeding technique on the service manual to bleed air out. If you don't want to do this, I think you can clean it with the coolant pipes still hooked up, but it'll be alittle more cramped.
Other than that, it's just disconnecting bunch of rubber hose and bolts.
-AK
Other than that, it's just disconnecting bunch of rubber hose and bolts.
-AK
Depending on year, the throttle cable can be tricky.
DanO
DanO
Does it make a difference on the NSX?
I have 113K on my Integra and was thinking about doing it also.
I have 113K on my Integra and was thinking about doing it also.
Why remove it? The only moving part is the butterfly valve. I cleaned the throttle body on my Accord, while it was still on the engine. The pedal was sticking. Went in with a rag saturated with carb cleaner, a mirror and scrubbed off all the gunk. Saved me over $150.00 (quoted by the dealer), took me less then 40 minutes and didn't need to replace any gaskets or hassle anything else.
Did it make a big difference? Any ill effects?ss_md said:
The reason for last question is because I cleaned my engine with Simple Green and then hosed it off and afterward had idling problems for a while. I was afraid I had shorted out the TP sensor or something.
Car runs perfect! Carb cleaners evaporates almost instantaneously. Plus it burns normally in the engine. So spraying it sparingly through the throttle body while the engine is running won't hurt any of the electrical, mechanical or internal parts.
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ss_md said:
I have used this technique many times with possitive results. Only down side is I had an oiled / aftermarket air filter and I am convinced the dripping oil all over the intake was blown into the engine with the cleaner and fouled my plugs prematurely.
ss_md said:
I see. Thanks for the tip. I guess getting water and Simple Green in the engine accidently wasn't so smart
good thread, glad to hear its not too difficult to remove (it looks it!) some point down the road i'd like to get mine polished (the outside). its the one large piece left thats not shiny!
Get in touch with ZR260B4U. His whole engine is polished.robr said:
is he the one that bought mike niday' car? im not nearly as crazy as mike, i'm just doing the big obvious stuff 
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ss_md said:
True. But spray sparingly. I did this on an old Legend and the carb cleaner must have released enough gunk to clog my EGR solonoid which made my car idle like crap. I replaced a few parts before I got around to the solonoid (which ended up being the problem.
Just FYI.
Jeff
This is true for any spray type cleaning. Clean with a rag first - get as much of the gunk and goop out, then spray sparingly with the motor running. Also, don't run & spray the engine too long with the air filter disconnected. The engine sensors might detect this as a problem and give you a check engine light.Hiroshima said:
I don't mean to get off the subject but I found another use for the carb cleaner trick.
I was trying to help a neighbor get her car started. It was cranking good and I tested for spark and it was firing, it just wouldn't turn over. I heard the fuel pump prime and check for bad fuses with no luck.
So my friend who is a mechanic came up, he immediatly suspected the fuel pump. He did a few things and then to confirm he opened up the throttle body and started the car with carb cleaner. The fuel pump would prime just not enough to get the car started.
I was trying to help a neighbor get her car started. It was cranking good and I tested for spark and it was firing, it just wouldn't turn over. I heard the fuel pump prime and check for bad fuses with no luck.
So my friend who is a mechanic came up, he immediatly suspected the fuel pump. He did a few things and then to confirm he opened up the throttle body and started the car with carb cleaner. The fuel pump would prime just not enough to get the car started.
robr said:is he the one that bought mike niday' car? im not nearly as crazy as mike, i'm just doing the big obvious stuff
Yes, he is the one. It is a tough task maintaining that compartment too. Looks spectuclar though.
sealant
I cleaned off the black gunk around that outside of the butterfly valve on my 87 integra engine. It caused the idle to go way up and it began to whistle at part throttle. The idle problem was fixed with adjustment but I have fixed the whistle. I think this gunk was sprayed on at the factory as a sealant.
I haven't looked at the NSX yet to see if it is the same way. Is it?
T.J.
I cleaned off the black gunk around that outside of the butterfly valve on my 87 integra engine. It caused the idle to go way up and it began to whistle at part throttle. The idle problem was fixed with adjustment but I have fixed the whistle. I think this gunk was sprayed on at the factory as a sealant.
I haven't looked at the NSX yet to see if it is the same way. Is it?
T.J.
