removing the engine cover
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
- Start date
TURBO2GO said:
I just wrapped my engine cover in some movers blankets and put it in my garage. It has been about 3 weeks now and with 110 degree heat in my area, the glass has not shattered from the lid being off (the dealership told me not to take it off because the glass will shatter from engine heat.)
TURBO2GO said:
My bad
Thanks for starting this thread Turbo2go. You asked all the questions and got all the anwsers. Now I'm headed to the garage for an inexpensive weight savings mod:biggrin:
Does the brace on top of the engine serve any purpose? I am looking to remove the engine cover and possibly the brace to get a clean view of the engine compartment. Thanks
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TURBO2GO said:
I use a 12' piece of 3/4 foam pipe insulation on the front top center of the roof panel.The foam is slitted down the center so it pops right on. Over time I didn't want to abrade the top's front edge.
Here's my storage routine:
With the top facing the front of the car I put the bottom in first up against the rear body panel and before I lower the front I slide on the foam.
Once in the trunk. I slide the top to the left side of the compartment.
I don't think it will slide into the CD deck but if you wanted to, you could keep another 10" section of foam on the bar/bottom support of the cd player so IF it did, it wouldn't get damaged.
I see. thanks for the help abrasso
Is there any difference between the stock one and the one from comptech?
http://www.comptechusa.com/store/152003c.html
I don't really like the looks of the stock one but was wondering if there are any benefits in upgrading it other than looks.
Is there any difference between the stock one and the one from comptech?
http://www.comptechusa.com/store/152003c.html
I don't really like the looks of the stock one but was wondering if there are any benefits in upgrading it other than looks.
For those who has a aftermarket header in their car, be really careful when washing the car after driving it. The after market header usually don't come with heat shield, therefore, the hatch will be hot after hard driving. You have to WAIT till the hatch cool off. Some prime member had his hatch shattered when the cold water hit the hot glass.
Another thing, if you take off the hatch and do not have tinted hatch, the hoses may go bad after few years under the sun because the UV ray will kill your hoses.
Another thing, if you take off the hatch and do not have tinted hatch, the hoses may go bad after few years under the sun because the UV ray will kill your hoses.
Vancehu said:
?????????
Do not have the hatch glass tinted? What is the basis of your suggestion that tinting the glass would accelerate the UV impact on the hoses?
UV killing them? With all the cars that have their engine covers off I'm surprised that SOS or Dali isn't selling the special NSX- R hoses if this is a real issue of concern.
My engine cover is off just for one season but I had a hole cut in it exposing the motor for at least 5 years and haven't noticed any sun damage yet. I am in the Northeast where there is less sun than you have out there.
Hey, you guys out there in California aren't putting suntan lotion on your hoses are ya?:biggrin:
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pbassjo said:
Re-read his post. He said if you do not have tinted glass your hoses may not last as long due to UV. I think he thinks tint is a good thing for the hoses.
I tried to remove my engine cover today and ran into a problem. At first, I unplugged the cable from the middle of the car and tried to get it through the hole so that I wouldnt have to deal with it on the engine cover but I couldnt figure out how to do that. The hole is too small and tip of the pigtail had no chance of squeezing through so I'm not sure how NSX1 did that. I plugged them back together and then tried to remove the wiring to the engine cover. This is the problem I encountered.
I unplugged the blue cable and detached the black wiring but I was unable to remove the blue housing that holds the big black cable onto the bolt. Unfortunately, I did not have a mini wrench that would fit that nut but I can see that even if I did, the blue plastic would have strong resistance on the nut since the clamps seems to grapple on the grooves of the screw. I thought to myself that maybe I could just unscrew the bolt from up top to solve this problem. Then I encountered this.
The bolt itself has no shape. Just a round flat surface. I suppose even if I had a wrench to unscrew the nut, the whole bolt itself would probably spin with the nut not to mention the blue plastic that will keep the nut from progressing. What should I do? I tried sliding the cable through the ring in the blue plastic but it seems to be holding on pretty strong without budging. I have already broken a part of the blue plastic thing so I dont want to continue to put force into it. For those of you who have removed it, please shed some light. Thanks.
I unplugged the blue cable and detached the black wiring but I was unable to remove the blue housing that holds the big black cable onto the bolt. Unfortunately, I did not have a mini wrench that would fit that nut but I can see that even if I did, the blue plastic would have strong resistance on the nut since the clamps seems to grapple on the grooves of the screw. I thought to myself that maybe I could just unscrew the bolt from up top to solve this problem. Then I encountered this.
The bolt itself has no shape. Just a round flat surface. I suppose even if I had a wrench to unscrew the nut, the whole bolt itself would probably spin with the nut not to mention the blue plastic that will keep the nut from progressing. What should I do? I tried sliding the cable through the ring in the blue plastic but it seems to be holding on pretty strong without budging. I have already broken a part of the blue plastic thing so I dont want to continue to put force into it. For those of you who have removed it, please shed some light. Thanks.
It was pretty easy to get the plug to come through the hole. I attached a photo of my pigtail. As you can see, the connector and the grommet are close in size. But as I remember, it was not difficult.unit-x said:
I just did this on my 02 with targa top...... I want to post while its fresh in my head....
There is a blue plastic piece that holds the wires to the engine cover. I simply pulled the plastic part away from the screw thread and it came off....
There are two small wires that attach to the engine cover on the driver side. The blue one you have to remove the 8mm nut to get it off..... The red wire you have to squeeze the black plastic harness from the underside and then pull..... I just left both wires there.
I removed the 4 x 10mm bolts that hold the engine cover in place.. So the 2 hinges came off with the engine cover... Gently close the glass hatch (dont slam).... and thats it!!!!
There is a blue plastic piece that holds the wires to the engine cover. I simply pulled the plastic part away from the screw thread and it came off....
There are two small wires that attach to the engine cover on the driver side. The blue one you have to remove the 8mm nut to get it off..... The red wire you have to squeeze the black plastic harness from the underside and then pull..... I just left both wires there.
I removed the 4 x 10mm bolts that hold the engine cover in place.. So the 2 hinges came off with the engine cover... Gently close the glass hatch (dont slam).... and thats it!!!!
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thanks... i searched for removing engine cover and this is what came up....... It actually helped me to remove the engine cover...... i wanted to update it too in case in the future someone else wants to remove their engine cover it will be a little easier for them
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thanks... i searched for removing engine cover and this is what came up....... It actually helped me to remove the engine cover...... i wanted to update it too in case in the future someone else wants to remove their engine cover it will be a little easier for them
OK then lets add something. I noticed if the car is left in the sun things get really warm, and wanting to avoid any hoses cracking or wearing prematurely, I tinted the rear glass. Not only does it stay A LOT cooler, but its also a great way to get a more "finished" look as the tint hides a lot of the stuff an aftermarket mesh or plexi cover would, without adding any weight. I really wasn't sure if I would like my windows tinted but after doing a very light legal tint, I love it. It really looks good on the NSX because of the "canopy", it really adds more to the fighter jet look. Mine is so light its barely perceptible in some lights but it sure is doing a lot for the engine. Even the few times I was at the track my engine bay was staying very cool. I've been very happy to save that 25 or 30 pounds of weight (heavy, whatever it is) up that high.
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One thing I noticed is that on some bumps, I can hear the hatch glass rattle. Anyone try putting some sort of rubber weatherstripping along the RWG where the glass rests?
