Removing left axle: two problems

goldNSX

goldNSX

Legendary Member
Joined
15 May 2004
Messages
6,898
I want to remove the left axle and ran into two problems.

1. the manual says to take a large screwdriver and pull the inner part of the tranny. I don't have to be careful to the sealing as I'm replacing it anyway. HOW MUCH pressure does it need? I know there's a set ring in there. It moves about 2 mm or so. The suspension arms are still screw on. Do I have to loose them to get more way? (pic 1)

2. I ran into another problem (Dummy me). I can't remove the lower arm screw if I don't take out the front engine support bar. (pic 2) And I don't feel like removing it. :) Of course, I don't feel like removing the ball joint at all. :wink: Regarding pic 3 what do you think if I loosen the UPPER ARM (4 bolts) and do it from the upper side?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
You should be able to remove the front and rear lower link bolts without removing the engine support beam. And you don't need to remove the ball joint or brake caliper, etc. There is a DIY manual for this floating around that contradicts the Service Manual. Get it and don't follow the SM, it will save you some headaches. In essence you loosen the bottom of the susension to pull it outward away from the transmission. It doesn't take much pressure to disengage the snap ring and the axle from the transmission, just even pressure on two sides so that the axle comes straight out, not at an angle.
 
Hi Thomas,

It takes some pressure to "pop" the inner joint from the trans. However you cannot do it without removing the lower arm bolts and toe link bolt and for that side you must also remove the lower shock bolt as well.

The problem you are having with the lower front bolt is someone installed the bolts backwards during a previous job like an engine swap, they are installed incorrectly. The nut should be on the beam side. Now you will have to remove the beam to install them correctly. Do not even bother trying to lower the beam a little, been there, done that, it is a waste of time, the front beam must come out fully.

Once all this is done, you will need a hleper to get the left rear suspension back and out (pull on the brake disk assy) so you can clear the long stub axle from the transmission.

Be careful with the seal, even though you are replacing it, you will have to reinstall the axle with a new seal, so again, be careful.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Many thanks to Larry and NSX-Files! I knew I run into more work...ok, let's regard it as a challange. :) It all went so fine till now...but I don't give up!!! :wink:
 
Get a big pry bar and carefully insert the end in to the axle housing and trans. housing. Give it a quick and firm push while holding the inner axle housing parellel. Do not pry with all your might, it takes the "touch". HTH
 
You're gonna need a rear wheel alignment since you won't be able to get the lower link bolts back the same way they were.

Sorry you have to remove the front beam. That's was one of the bigger PITAs of installing headers. But once it's all done you'll have that satisfaction of knowing it was a job done right.

GL
 
EIFFEL said:
Get a big pry bar and carefully insert the end in to the axle housing and trans. housing. Give it a quick and firm push while holding the inner axle housing parellel. Do not pry with all your might, it takes the "touch". HTH
Click to expand...

I used Larry's technique which is to use two prybars 180 degrees apart and slightly load one and then when the other is pushed to the correct pressure, the axle will pop out straight. Hard to verbally explain, you have to try it hands-on to understand.
 
NSX-Files said:
You're gonna need a rear wheel alignment since you won't be able to get the lower link bolts back the same way they were.
Click to expand...

It is OK. The adjuster is the rear bolt and you can mark it prior to disassembly. Done it 100's of times;). I use a small punch to mark the lower arm and the alignment bolt washer. Never had an issue with alignment post reassembly.

Good Luck!

LarryB
 
NSX-Files said:
You're gonna need a rear wheel alignment since you won't be able to get the lower link bolts back the same way they were.

Sorry you have to remove the front beam. That's was one of the bigger PITAs of installing headers. But once it's all done you'll have that satisfaction of knowing it was a job done right.

GL
Click to expand...

I've marked the adjustment gauge, so the alignment will be the same as before. It's minimum anyway as the car is lowered.

Regarding the remove of the front beam. What's the PITA about it? I once unscrewed the front engine mount, that was not a problem. Do you refer to anything else?

thanks!
 
goldNSX said:
I've marked the adjustment gauge, so the alignment will be the same as before. It's minimum anyway as the car is lowered.

Regarding the remove of the front beam. What's the PITA about it? I once unscrewed the front engine mount, that was not a problem. Do you refer to anything else?

thanks!
Click to expand...

It's been a while but as I recall the bolt securing the motor mount to that front beam was difficult to reach with tools. I might be remembering something else but anyway even if it's a PITA it's still very doable.
 
Larry is right. Take the 2 lower arm bolts, the toe link bolt and the lower shock bolt out ! Shit about your front lower arm bolt :mad:

I used two bigs srewdrivers to take the axle out and it requires some force.

Once you have done that you are not far to be able to change your clutch yourself :biggrin:
 
asylum said:
Larry is right. Take the 2 lower arm bolts, the toe link bolt and the lower shock bolt out ! Shit about your front lower arm bolt :mad:

I used two bigs srewdrivers to take the axle out and it requires some force.

Once you have done that you are not far to be able to change your clutch yourself :biggrin:
Click to expand...

Thanks again.

I'll take the front beam out I guess. Flexing the head of the bolt off is risky as there's not very much room there. Taking things apart is easier than fitting them together. :D

One more question: My gearbox oil showed a very small amount of metallic depris, not very much. There's said to be a magnet in the tranny. (How) Can I clean it?
 
As mentioned, the biggest issue with the front beam is the cross bolt and nut (front engine mount), especially if you have headers. If you have a 1991-96 car with stock manifolds it is pretty easy. 1997+ or any year with aftermarket headers make is a PITA since you cannot hold the nut with your hand during reassembly, so you need to tape in on, then once you get it started you can remove the tape. I use duct tape, and make the piece of tape long enough that is hangs below the front beam when assembled. A little careful pulling on the tape will get it off. You need to make sure you get ALL the tape out, or you will melt it later, a very bad thing.

After a few times it is easy:).

Regards,
LarryB
 
Thanks again, Larry! :) I'm pretty sure I can solve it. You don't happen to do holidays in Switzerland in the next two weeks, do you? :wink:
 
What would nsxprime be without Larry and all other helpers! Thanks again and now SHOWTIME: :)

Screw viewed from the passenger side (yellow marked)
IMG_1284.JPG


other side where the header is in the way
IMG_1287.JPG


long extension and special tool
IMG_1290.JPG


from the outside
IMG_1291.JPG


supporting the engine a little bit to get out the screw much better
IMG_1295.JPG


OUT! :D
IMG_1296.JPG


That how it looks now
IMG_1308.JPG


To do:

I still have to get bigger screw drivers and pull the axle out.
While being there the oil pan gasket will be replaced also (header out)

Thanks again from a much more proud owner now. :) Oh, of course the screw on the other side was also wrong.

ONE question regarding torquing the arms back: Does the suspension has to be 'pretensioned' to the height the car is normally sitting on it's wheels?

I'm pretty sure a guy in Switzerland is sitting in front of the screen not believing his eyes. :tongue::wink:
 
Last edited:
Off topic :redface: but I can't believe how clean is your engine
compartment and components :eek:
How do you do that :confused:
 
C-speed said:
For future reference, it's a hell of a lot easier to remove the bolts from the front engine mount that attach it to the engine, rather than trying to remove the long one from the cross member.
Click to expand...

It wasn't bad at all. It took less than two minutes. With the right length of the extensions and the right tools in general (I love my new Hazet) it's very easy. Ok, I didn't mount them back yet. But with my left hand I can feel the nut on the left side while tightening the long screw from the right side. Shouldn't be a problem (I hope). I think it's all about aligning.
 
I just mounted the front beam within 15 minutes. No problems at all. You can't see anything but you can feel it. No tape needed, just two thin arms and hands, that's all.
 
Two more questions:

1. The boot kit contains 150 gramms grease. So I transferred 20-30 gramms from the inner to the outer axle. Correct?

2. What is the correct axle mouting order? Outer one or inner one first?

Thanks again!
 

Similar threads

W
NSX Hugo Window Regulator Instruction Clarification
Replies
4
Views
222
Wild Turkey
Wild Turkey
Chris_Lum
DIY: Prothane Polyurethane Front Upright Bushings (91-05)
Replies
0
Views
302
Chris_Lum
Chris_Lum
smoore
Engine failure on a 2017 Grrr
2
Replies
42
Views
2K
docjohn
docjohn
TANTO
ALUMINUM POLISHING DIY
Replies
5
Views
186
Honcho
Honcho
FSFNSX
OEM Rear bumper Rear beam front bumper beam ducts side skirt b pillars for sale
Replies
8
Views
698
FSFNSX
FSFNSX
Back
Top