Rebuilt compressor? on ebay?

goldNSX

goldNSX

Legendary Member
Joined
15 May 2004
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6,898
I don't think my 91 compressor will last forever. With what piece should I replace it, an expensive OEM Honda one, a rebuilt one as on ebay or a new one also on ebay? If I switch from R12 to R134a as the first one isn't sold anymore which is the best way? Are compressors interchangable between the years?

See ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...36790QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V#ebayphotohosting

Or are they just crap?
 
I bought & installed a rebuilt one from http://www.aircoparts.com/

It has been fine but note the initial problems I had here

One caution, the compressor itself is the same as on an Integra (10PA15C) but mine came with the wrong pulley on it!
Integras are much more common so they are the cores used for these rebuilds - I did point out the difference in pully to Airco but I know that several others reported afterwards they too received units with the Integra pulleys after they knew what to look for.
Not a biug deal as long as you know!

(You can swap the pulleys easily enough however, just make sure you check & replace it before you install it!) - ask me how I know! :wink:

Replacing the compressor, even after evacuating, is not trivial process on the NSX - requires removing the front crossmember beam & all that goes along with that. I went to an A/C shop & had system evacuated, then back to friend's shop to raise on a lift to remove subframe & swap out the compressor, then back to the A/C shop for pump & re-charge.

Note that a number of Mercedes models use the same AC compressor model - Denso 10PA15C so may be not so difficult to find that unit over there Thomas. Again, you may just need to swap the pulleys.

If you decide to buy, let me know if I can help in the usual way! <!--StartFragment -->
pain.gif
 
Thanks, Ken. As read on Prime it's not a bad idea to change the compressor if it's making significant noise before it breaks definitly down causing a $$$-bill. I can't find the NSX on http://www.aircoparts.com/ but anyway what do I need to change the compressor and switch to R134a? Ok, a new compressor, a new clutch?, does there exist a R134a swap kit from Honda?, a new evaporator?
 
D'Ecosse said:
Replacing the compressor, even after evacuating, is not trivial process on the NSX - requires removing the front crossmember beam & all that goes along with that. I went to an A/C shop & had system evacuated, then back to friend's shop to raise on a lift to remove subframe & swap out the compressor, then back to the A/C shop for pump & re-charge.
Click to expand...

are you talking about the condenser? I don't see why you would be messing with anything in the front unless it was the condeser?
 
goldNSX said:
Thanks, Ken. As read on Prime it's not a bad idea to change the compressor if it's making significant noise before it breaks definitly down causing a $$$-bill. I can't find the NSX on http://www.aircoparts.com/
Click to expand...
Haha! I bet you looked under Honda! Remember it's an Acura over here. :biggrin:

http://www.aircoparts.com/compressors/acura.htm#Anchor-62336

.....but anyway what do I need to change the compressor and switch to R134a? Ok, a new compressor, a new clutch?, does there exist a R134a swap kit from Honda?, a new evaporator?
Click to expand...
The compressor usually comes with the clutch and pulley. Only the pulley itself would need to be the proper NSX one - everything else will be same between different brand & model cars.

Other than the freon the only other part required to replace is a new receiver/dryer which goes at the front of the car behind the bumper, just in front of the radiator - that is relatively inexpensive. (That's the part that you see the sight glass)
http://www.aircoparts.com/AIRCO/drier.htm
 
D'Ecosse said:
Haha! I bet you looked under Honda! Remember it's an Acura over here. :biggrin:
Click to expand...

You got me! :D

What's the difference between

1996-93 All W/Factory AC W/V6 3.0 Eng. After Chassis #3300449 10PA15C
1993-91 All W/Factory AC W/V6 3.0 Eng. Before Chassis #3300448 10PA15C
?

Is the 91-93 also R134a-suitable? I think yes. What did you pay for the compressor and the receiver/dryer ?
 
The base unit is the same. My guess would be that one is filled with mineral oil and the other is filled with PAG. Units built more recently may employ better seals.
 
If you view this seller's other items it appears he owned a 2002 NSX and is now parting it out. However he also has parts from earlier years too. Of course being that it's in Flushing, NY it could also be a chop shop. :biggrin:
 
goldNSX said:
What's that? :confused:
Click to expand...


term used for places in the US that steals cars then break them down to parts and parts them out...or a place where they buy a stripped down car and steal a complete similar car to get the rest of the parts to complete. Cheap way to get a whole car and sell for profit and have a clean title and VIN.
 
clr1024 said:
term used for places in the US that steals cars then break them down to parts and parts them out...or a place where they buy a stripped down car and steal a complete similar car to get the rest of the parts to complete. Cheap way to get a whole car and sell for profit and have a clean title and VIN.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, thanks, thought about sth dirty. :tongue::)
 
Try a internet search for BlendAir of Texas. Great prices/ quick service response.

I just replaced mine thinking it was the compressor (134a). It instead was the clutch. I just put the whole new assembly on (rebuilts are available though), vacuumed the system for 1/2 hour (using a Harbor Freight tool), put in 2 extra ounces of PAG oil (per TSB notice), 28 ounces (if I remember right) of 134a...........I've been a happy camper since.

I didn't appreciate the system unitl it went out. The heat is brutal in Texas
 
D'Ecosse said:
I went to an A/C shop & had system evacuated, then back to friend's shop to raise on a lift to remove subframe & swap out the compressor, then back to the A/C shop for pump & re-charge.
Click to expand...

As far as I see in the manual the rear beam goes out which should be easy, then the tank-supporting beams goes out and then the front beam. Question: does the fuel-tank needs to be supported. It's labor-intensive just to get to the compressor but not tricky, is it?
 
You will not hace to remove the rear beam. Just the "Rod Beam" which is the "U" shaped aliminum piece. Once off then you can remove the front beam and the compresor is right there, 4 bolts, do not forget to disconnect the wire:).

If you have headers this will a little bit of a challange getting the rear motor mount bolt and nut back on during reassembly. Tape the nut in place before you reinstall the front beam, use a long piece of duct tape so it sticks out past the bottom of the front beam when installed. Then carefully install the bolt through the front motor mount, thread the nut, then pull the tape out. Torque to spec (56 ft.lbs. IIRC)

It may take a few tries:).

HTH,
LarryB
 
Thanks.
So the engine rests on the front beam? Does the engine need support as the front beam is out?
Yes, I have headers. :)
 
No, the engine is supported by the other three mounts which you will not remove:).

HTH,
LarryB
 
I got a compressor from Amazon for $160. No problems with it.

but as D'Ecosse it is the same as an integras. The pulley is smaller. My mechanic recommended to keep the smaller pulley. Because the new compressor from the integra was made for R-134. 91 have R12. The smaller pulley makes the compressor spin faster.

My A/C was converted, it use to get warm when idling, it doesn't do that anymore.

btw-the circumference of the belt needs to be 1" shorter.

check the pulley first to see if it is actually smaller.
 
Last edited:
Zennsx said:
Make sure it has the correct diameter pulley on it.
Click to expand...

Besides the pulley one question: The clutch went bad and needs to be replaced. If the pulley has to be replaced does this affect the clutch? Means: If I have to replace the pulley can I still go for the new clutch? (I don't want to install the bad clutch again)

Note: this has not happened on my car. :wink:
 
goldNSX said:
Besides the pulley one question: The clutch went bad and needs to be replaced. If the pulley has to be replaced does this affect the clutch? Means: If I have to replace the pulley can I still go for the new clutch? (I don't want to install the bad clutch again)

Note: this has not happened on my car. :wink:
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if your pulley can be interchanged with the existing possibly smaller pulley, I'd Email the seller and see if he could pull an an Nsx compressor & measure the pulley, It should be 5" 3/4".
 
We have had good success with these compressors.

They come dry, so please remember to put in enough oil to initialize these compressors.

We find that the fastest way is to remove the lower front beam. Drop the exhaust pipe from the front exhaust manifold to give you additional room and then pull the A/C

You can do this job 100% from under the car. You can reach up and loosen the belts and the a/c tensioner belt pulley lock bolt with out reaching over the car from the top.

Make sure to put your A/C system under vaccum for at least 15 minutes. Once the system is under vaccum, close everything and wait 30 minutes to see if the system holds that vaccum. If it does not, than there is a leak in the system and this will be addressed first. If the vaccum stays steady, you are ready for R134. Also with cars which have not had a/c for an extended period of time where the system has no preasure, we would recommend changing out the a/c dryer at the same time.

While your doing your a/c, you should also replace the o-rings.

If any of you have any questions, please feel free to email, PM or call us at 661 251 7674.

Happy Motoring :smile:

Rob.
 

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