question about the clutch Master and Slave Cylinders

[steady]

Hello,

when i got into my car i noticed my clutch pedal had very little resistance like i had no pressure. i checked my clutch fluid it was very low.

I wonder if anybody could guide me about the fitting the Master and Slave Cylinders.

Sorry for my poor technical English, I'm French.

 

[popsicle]

Hello,

when i got into my car i noticed my clutch pedal had very little resistance like i had no pressure. i checked my clutch fluid it was very low.

I wonder if anybody could guide me about the fitting the Master and Slave Cylinders.

Sorry for my poor technical English, I'm French.

+1
i need to do this as well asapl

 

[nsxtra]

Check to see if you have any fluid leaking towards the rear of the car. That would mean that the slave might need to be replaced. If you have fluid at the driver floorboard that would be the master that would need to be changed. Either way both should be changed at the same time. Here's a good write up with pictures by D'Ecosse that I used to change mine in my garage. Good luck.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20258

 

[MJK]

I used This master cylinder DIY thread. Here is some more information on bleeding. I think this slave cylinder thread by D'eccose is the best one. Same as previously mentioned I think.

Good luck. It is an easy job with a speedbleeder and enough fluid. Get extra fluid.

 

[Synthesis]

don't worry, it's not hard to do (although the master can be frustrating)

just take your time :smile:

 

[NSXclear]

You will need Honda Super Hi-Temp Urea grease. This grease comes in handy for many other NSX maintenence parts. It's something like $12, but well worth it.

Remeber to buy a new o-ring for the slave and two new cotter pins.

You will also need a new cotter pin for the master cylinder.

You can reuse the old cotter pins, but why risk it breaking and not to mention, it goes in much easier when reinstalling. Very cheap parts.

 

[ftuhy]

This year I used a pressure bleeder when flushing the clutch fluid. Much easier and more complete a flush than the old "keep pushng the pedal" method that I previously used. I've never tried speed bleeders, so I can't make a comparison.

Frank
'96 NSX-T, red/tan

 

[steady]

"Bonjour" to everybody!

Thank you for the info, I'm gonna now put it into the practice.

Francis

 

[Meeyatch1]

This year I used a pressure bleeder when flushing the clutch fluid. Much easier and more complete a flush than the old "keep pushng the pedal" method that I previously used. I've never tried speed bleeders, so I can't make a comparison.

Frank
'96 NSX-T, red/tan

Where do you purchase a pressure bleeder? Are there any downsides to its use? I need to flush my system as I think there may be an air bubble. The fluid was very low, so I refilled it. It seemed to stiffen up for a short while, and now has very little clutch travel again.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Mitch,

Your master is leaking fluid under the front carpet, that is why is it low. This is typical. Sorry for the bad news.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Meeyatch1]

Mitch,

Your master is leaking fluid under the front carpet, that is why is it low. This is typical. Sorry for the bad news.

HTH,
LarryB

HAHA!! So I pulled back the carpet after reading this and guess what? DING! DING! Fluid all over the place. I cleaned under the carpet, and now need to buy new parts. Where can I get the best price on this piece?

 

[NSXclear]

They are not expensive parts. I think both can be had for under $200. Just get them at your local dealer or Prime-friendly dealers:


Here are you part numbers (Prices are 20% off list):

1 qty. 46930-SL0-003 Slave Cylinder $82.24
1 qty 91352-SD4-000 O-Ring $2.22

1 qty 46920-SL0-A01 M/CYL ASSY. CL $110.48
1 qty 94201-20300 PIN, COTTER $0.43

If you don't already have Honda UREA Grease, your going to need that also.

Do a search for dealers that work with Prime cutomers.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/
Or just take a print out of the price from http://www.acuraoemparts.com/ above and get your dealer to match them.
Niello Acura
Dali racing
Etc....

 

[Meeyatch1]

They are not expensive parts. I think both can be had for under $200. Just get them at your local dealer or Prime-friendly dealers:


Here are you part numbers (Prices are 20% off list):

1 qty. 46930-SL0-003 Slave Cylinder $82.24
1 qty 91352-SD4-000 O-Ring $2.22

1 qty 46920-SL0-A01 M/CYL ASSY. CL $110.48
1 qty 94201-20300 PIN, COTTER $0.43

If you don't already have Honda UREA Grease, your going to need that also.

Do a search for dealers that work with Prime cutomers.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/
Or just take a print out of the price from http://www.acuraoemparts.com/ above and get your dealer to match them.
Niello Acura
Dali racing
Etc....

Thank you. Are the part numbers the same for ALL model years of the NSX?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Are the part numbers the same for ALL model years of the NSX

yes

 

[Meeyatch1]

For the record....removing that cotter pin is not as easy as it sounds. At least it was not easy on my car! The pin is covered in grease, and is actually pretty well stuck in there. It took me about an hour and a half to remove it, and this was AFTER the pin broke into 4 separate pieces, and I had to invent my own way to get it out by pushing the remains through with a very thin nail. ARGH!! :frown:

 

[NSXclear]

You don't want to break the pin. I did the same thing and spent a couple of hours on it.

Don't rush it like I did. Take your time on the pin. It may look simple, but they can be tricky at times.

 

[Meeyatch1]

You don't want to break the pin. I did the same thing and spent a couple of hours on it.

Don't rush it like I did. Take your time on the pin. It may look simple, but they can be tricky at times.

I did take my time. I had an hour invested before it snapped. Now, to add to the fun, when I reattached that metal line that connects to the top of the clutch master cylinder and the other part down by the cruise control, I accidentally did some minor cross threading. It looks to be only the first few threads, but it is enough to make me so very mad. Does anyone know how hard it is to properly fix cross threading? My car is down!

 

[Larry Bastanza]

OK am I going to have to come out there and install it for you!!!!! J/K

I actually do not understand how you "slightly" cross thread, either you messed it up or you didn't. Typically I use a small 10mm wrench with just two fingers on it to make sure it starts easily. Probably the top nut on the master was a little off and the hose is not 100% aligned.

If you really cross threaded it, you may need to remove the connector block(which has six hose connections - brakes too) and replace it. I would make really sure it is cross threaded and not just offset and will not go in. What ever you do it should thread in the first few turns with little effort.

LMK what you end up with.

Regards,
LarryB

 

[Meeyatch1]

OK am I going to have to come out there and install it for you!!!!! J/K

I actually do not understand how you "slightly" cross thread, either you messed it up or you didn't. Typically I use a small 10mm wrench with just two fingers on it to make sure it starts easily. Probably the top nut on the master was a little off and the hose is not 100% aligned.

If you really cross threaded it, you may need to remove the connector block(which has six hose connections - brakes too) and replace it. I would make really sure it is cross threaded and not just offset and will not go in. What ever you do it should thread in the first few turns with little effort.

LMK what you end up with.

Regards,
LarryB

Larry....I wish you were here to install it. Trying to learn how to work on my own car is getting stressful.

What I meant by slight cross threading, is that I can see the first row of threads just goobered up enough to make them not go together easily. As soon as I noticed they were taking too much effort to put together, I stopped. I have a friend who has some sort of rethreading kit that fixes cross threaded areas, and may try to have him take a shot at it. Man, I hope that works, because I am scared to think how much that block with the three pipes running into it is.

What are the other two pipes going into there anyway?

 

[drew]

Flare nuts are ALWAYS --without exception-- to be started by hand and turned with the fingers at least a couple of revs.

You should always break loose or conduct a final tighten with a flare nut wrench; these wrenches are worth their weight in pure gold. The exception to not using a flare nut wrench is that your life is in jeopardy.

Replacing a flare nut is a major problem and overcoming buggered threads is challenging. As you will find a couple minutes of care and the right tools could have saved you a couple of days of labor and several hundred dollars.

I have a spare six-way joint that I can send you for $20 shipped. (PM me).

Part #39 46470-SL0-A00 ?
http://www.nsxpartsdb.com/parts/F/B25/

 

[Meeyatch1]

Flare nuts are ALWAYS --without exception-- to be started by hand and turned with the fingers at least a couple of revs.

You should always break loose or conduct a final tighten with a flare nut wrench; these wrenches are worth their weight in pure gold. The exception to not using a flare nut wrench is that your life is in jeopardy.

Replacing a flare nut is a major problem and overcoming buggered threads is challenging. As you will find a couple minutes of care and the right tools could have saved you a couple of days of labor and several hundred dollars.

I have a spare six-way joint that I can send you for $20 shipped. (PM me).

Part #39 46470-SL0-A00 ?
http://www.nsxpartsdb.com/parts/F/B25/

Hello! Thank you for the help. I just sent you a PM. Boy...this is one heck of a learning process.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Mitch,

If you need to replace the block you will need to do a complete brake flush/bleed. The other four lines are for the brakes

Rethreading this is possible, but you will most likely need to remove it, in order to get a rethreading tool straight enough to make that work. If you go that far to take it out, just throw it away, it is not worth the chance of it leaking and you having to do it all over again.

At Drew's prices, it's a no brainer, replace it.

BTW, it is nearly impossible to "hand thread" this based on the position it is in, that is why I use a light two finger hold an a short 10mm open end. Once it is threaded I go all the way down, then use the line wrench to final tighten.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Meeyatch1]

Mitch,

If you need to replace the block you will need to do a complete brake flush/bleed. The other four lines are for the brakes

Rethreading this is possible, but you will most likely need to remove it, in order to get a rethreading tool straight enough to make that work. If you go that far to take it out, just throw it away, it is not worth the chance of it leaking and you having to do it all over again.

At Drew's prices, it's a no brainer, replace it.

BTW, it is nearly impossible to "hand thread" this based on the position it is in, that is why I use a light two finger hold an a short 10mm open end. Once it is threaded I go all the way down, then use the line wrench to final tighten.

HTH,
LarryB

The real bite is that I actually had this back on, and had to remove it to get the part that fastens to the top of the master cylinder screwed back on. So it was actually on the second reassembly that the screw up happened.

I have already sent Drew a PM...I just hope he can get it shipped in time. It is a huge help though.